Chain Saw Stihl MS 170 vs MS 250 Comparison (Expert Guide)

That familiar scent of freshly cut wood, the satisfying roar of a chainsaw biting through timber – it’s a feeling I know well. For years, I’ve lived and breathed wood processing, from felling towering trees to meticulously stacking firewood for the winter. Choosing the right chainsaw is paramount, and if you’re like many, you’re probably stuck between the Stihl MS 170 and the MS 250. I’ve spent countless hours with both, and I’m here to share my experience to help you make the best decision. This isn’t just a spec-sheet comparison; it’s a practical guide rooted in real-world use, failures, and hard-won successes. I’ll walk you through everything, from understanding the core differences to applying that knowledge in your own projects. Let’s get started.

Chain Saw Stihl MS 170 vs MS 250 Comparison (Expert Guide)

Understanding User Intent

The user searching for a “Chain Saw Stihl MS 170 vs MS 250 Comparison (Expert Guide)” intends to:

• Decide which chainsaw to purchase: They are likely considering buying either the MS 170 or the MS 250 and need help determining which model best suits their needs.
• Understand the key differences: They want a clear comparison of the features, performance, and capabilities of each chainsaw.
• Get expert advice: They are looking for insights from someone with experience using both chainsaws.
• Learn about practical applications: They want to understand how each chainsaw performs in real-world scenarios, such as cutting firewood or felling small trees.
• Make an informed decision: They need enough information to confidently choose the chainsaw that will best meet their specific requirements.

Introduction: Why the Right Chainsaw Matters

Choosing a chainsaw isn’t like picking out a hammer. It’s a significant investment that impacts your efficiency, safety, and the quality of your work. I remember one particularly frustrating fall. I was helping a friend clear some storm-damaged trees with an underpowered saw – a cheap generic model. The thing bogged down in every cut, strained my back, and took twice as long as it should have. That experience solidified my belief: the right tool makes all the difference. The Stihl MS 170 and MS 250 are both popular choices, but they cater to different needs. Let’s dive in.

Key Concepts: Chainsaw Basics

Before we compare the models, let’s cover some essential chainsaw terminology:

• Engine Displacement (cc): This refers to the total volume of the cylinders in the engine. A larger displacement generally means more power.
• Bar Length: The length of the metal guide bar that the chain runs around. Longer bars allow you to cut larger diameter logs.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″ and 3/8″.
• Gauge: The thickness of the drive links on the chain that fit into the bar groove.
• Power-to-Weight Ratio: A crucial factor. A saw with high power and low weight is easier to handle and reduces fatigue.
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and contains a high moisture content (often 50% or more). Seasoned wood has been dried, reducing its moisture content (ideally below 20% for firewood). Cutting green wood requires more power.

Stihl MS 170 vs. MS 250: A Head-to-Head Comparison

Here’s a breakdown of the key specifications and differences between the two models:

Detailed Breakdown:

• Engine Power: The MS 250 boasts significantly more power (3.0 bhp vs. 1.7 bhp). This translates to faster cutting speeds and the ability to handle larger logs and denser wood. I’ve noticed the difference particularly when cutting seasoned oak; the MS 170 struggles, while the MS 250 plows through.
• Weight: While the MS 250 is slightly heavier, the difference is negligible. The increased power more than compensates for the minor weight increase.
• Bar Length: The longer bar options on the MS 250 allow you to tackle larger diameter trees. If you regularly cut logs over 12 inches in diameter, the MS 250 is the clear winner.
• Fuel and Oil Capacity: The MS 250’s larger tanks mean less frequent refueling and oiling, which is especially helpful during extended cutting sessions.
• Chain Pitch: The MS 170 uses a 3/8″ Picco chain, which is designed for smoother, cleaner cuts on smaller wood. The MS 250 uses a .325″ chain, which is more aggressive and better suited for tougher jobs.
• Price: The MS 170 is significantly cheaper, making it an attractive option for budget-conscious buyers. However, consider the long-term value. If you anticipate needing more power in the future, investing in the MS 250 now might save you money in the long run.

Case Study 1: Pruning Apple Trees with the MS 170

I used the MS 170 extensively for pruning apple trees in my orchard. Its lightweight design and maneuverability made it perfect for reaching high branches and making precise cuts. The 14″ bar was sufficient for most branches, and the saw’s low vibration reduced fatigue during long pruning sessions.

Steps:

1. Safety First: Wear appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), including safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection.
2. Inspect the Saw: Check the chain tension, fuel and oil levels, and ensure all safety features are functioning correctly.
3. Starting the Saw: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for starting the saw. Use the choke appropriately.
4. Pruning Cuts: Make clean, angled cuts to promote healing. Avoid cutting too close to the trunk.
5. Limbing Techniques: Use proper limbing techniques to avoid kickback. Keep the saw body close to you and cut from top to bottom.
6. Cleanup: Clear away any debris and dispose of branches properly.

Benefits:

• Lightweight and easy to handle.
• Precise cuts for healthy tree growth.
• Reduced fatigue during long pruning sessions.

Challenges:

• Not suitable for larger branches or thicker wood.
• Limited power for tackling tough knots.

Case Study 2: Cutting Firewood with the MS 250

For processing firewood, the MS 250 is my go-to saw. I regularly cut oak, maple, and ash, and the MS 250 handles these hardwoods with ease. The extra power is essential for cutting through larger diameter logs and dealing with knots.

Steps:

1. Choose Your Wood: Select seasoned wood for optimal burning. Green wood needs to dry for at least 6-12 months.
2. Prepare the Cutting Area: Clear the area of any obstructions and ensure a stable surface for cutting.
3. Bucking Techniques: Use proper bucking techniques to avoid pinching the bar. Support the log on both sides of the cut.
4. Splitting: Split the firewood into manageable sizes using a splitting axe or hydraulic log splitter.
5. Stacking: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to promote drying.
6. Drying: Allow the wood to dry to a moisture content of around 20% before burning.

Benefits:

• Powerful enough to cut through large logs and dense wood.
• Efficient for processing large quantities of firewood.
• Reduces strain and fatigue compared to using a smaller saw.

Challenges:

• Slightly heavier than the MS 170.
• Requires more fuel and oil.

Felling Techniques: A Crucial Skill

Whether you choose the MS 170 or MS 250, understanding basic felling techniques is critical for safety and efficiency. Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate PPE.

1. Planning: Assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (power lines, other trees, etc.). Plan your escape route.
2. Notch Cut: Create a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
3. Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
4. Wedge (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use a felling wedge to help push it over.
5. Retreat: Once the tree starts to fall, retreat quickly and safely along your planned escape route.

Important Safety Considerations:

• Never fell a tree alone.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Keep a safe distance from falling trees.
• Use proper PPE.
• Consider taking a professional felling course.

Debarking Logs: Preparing Wood for Different Uses

Debarking logs can be beneficial for several reasons: it speeds up drying, reduces the risk of insect infestation, and improves the appearance of the wood.

Methods:

• Manual Debarking: Using a drawknife or spud to peel the bark off the log. This is a labor-intensive process but suitable for small quantities of wood.
• Mechanical Debarking: Using a log debarker machine. This is more efficient for large-scale operations.

My Experience:

I’ve used both manual and mechanical debarking methods. For small projects, I prefer the drawknife. It’s a satisfying process and allows me to closely inspect the wood for defects. For larger projects, a mechanical debarker is essential for saving time and effort.

Splitting Firewood: Axe vs. Hydraulic Splitter

Splitting firewood can be done manually with an axe or mechanically with a hydraulic log splitter.

• Axe: A traditional method that requires skill and strength. Choose a splitting axe with a heavy head and a long handle.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: A more efficient and less physically demanding option. Hydraulic splitters come in various sizes and power levels.

Which is better?

For small quantities of firewood, an axe is perfectly adequate. However, for larger quantities, a hydraulic splitter is a game-changer. It significantly reduces the amount of time and effort required to split the wood. I invested in a 25-ton hydraulic splitter a few years ago, and it’s been one of the best investments I’ve made. It allows me to process firewood much faster and with less strain on my body.

Strategic Advantages of a Hydraulic Splitter:

• Increased efficiency: Split more wood in less time.
• Reduced physical strain: Less back pain and fatigue.
• Safer operation: Less risk of injury compared to using an axe.

Wood Type Selection: Matching Wood to Your Needs

Different types of wood have different properties that make them suitable for different uses.

• Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, beech. These woods are dense, burn longer, and produce more heat. Ideal for firewood.
• Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce. These woods are less dense, burn faster, and produce less heat. Suitable for kindling or construction.

My Recommendation:

For firewood, I always recommend hardwoods. They provide the best heat output and burn for a longer period. Oak is my personal favorite, but maple and ash are also excellent choices.

Drying Methods: Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

Properly drying firewood is crucial for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Methods:

• Air Drying: The most common method. Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for 6-12 months.
• Kiln Drying: A faster method that uses heat to dry the wood. Kiln-dried firewood is typically ready to burn in a few weeks.

My Preferred Method:

I prefer air drying. It’s a natural process that doesn’t require any special equipment. I stack my firewood in long rows with plenty of space between the rows to allow for good air circulation. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Firewood: Ideally below 20%.
• Construction Lumber: 12-15%.

Stacking Firewood: Optimizing Airflow and Space

Proper stacking is essential for efficient drying and maximizing space.

Tips:

• Stack the wood in rows, with each row slightly offset from the row below.
• Leave space between the rows for air circulation.
• Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
• Elevate the stack off the ground to prevent moisture from seeping in.

Case Study 3: Building a Cordwood Shed

I built a cordwood shed to store my firewood. Cordwood construction uses short pieces of wood stacked like bricks, with mortar filling the gaps. This method provides excellent insulation and creates a visually appealing structure.

Steps:

1. Foundation: Build a solid foundation to support the shed.
2. Frame: Construct a frame using lumber.
3. Cordwood Walls: Stack the cordwood pieces between the frame, using mortar to fill the gaps.
4. Roof: Build a roof to protect the firewood from the elements.

Benefits:

• Excellent insulation.
• Visually appealing.
• Provides a dry and well-ventilated storage space for firewood.

Maintenance: Keeping Your Chainsaw in Top Condition

Regular maintenance is essential for prolonging the life of your chainsaw and ensuring safe operation.

Tasks:

• Sharpening the Chain: Keep the chain sharp for efficient cutting.
• Cleaning the Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to prevent engine damage.
• Checking the Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug for wear and replace it as needed.
• Lubricating the Bar and Chain: Keep the bar and chain lubricated to reduce friction and wear.
• Adjusting the Carburetor: Adjust the carburetor as needed to ensure proper fuel mixture.

My Recommendation:

I recommend performing regular maintenance on your chainsaw after each use. This will help prevent problems and keep your saw running smoothly for years to come.

Safety First: Essential Precautions for Chainsaw Use

Chainsaw use is inherently dangerous. Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate PPE.

PPE:

• Safety glasses
• Hearing protection
• Gloves
• Chainsaw chaps
• Steel-toed boots
• Helmet

Other Safety Precautions:

• Never operate a chainsaw while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
• Keep a safe distance from others while operating a chainsaw.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Never cut above your head.
• Inspect the chainsaw before each use.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cost Analysis: Weighing the Investment

Let’s break down the costs associated with each chainsaw:

Stihl MS 170:

• Initial Purchase Price: $180 – $230
• Maintenance Costs (Annual): $30 – $50 (Chain sharpening, air filter, spark plug)
• Fuel Costs (Per Year): $50 – $100 (Depending on usage)

Stihl MS 250:

• Initial Purchase Price: $300 – $350
• Maintenance Costs (Annual): $40 – $60 (Chain sharpening, air filter, spark plug)
• Fuel Costs (Per Year): $75 – $150 (Depending on usage)

Long-Term Value:

While the MS 170 has a lower initial cost, the MS 250 offers better long-term value for users who require more power and plan to use the chainsaw frequently. The increased power and durability of the MS 250 can save time and effort in the long run.

Skill Levels Required: Matching the Saw to Your Experience

The MS 170 is more forgiving for beginners due to its lighter weight and lower power. However, the MS 250 is still manageable with proper training and safety precautions.

Beginner:

• Start with the MS 170 for light-duty tasks.
• Take a chainsaw safety course.
• Practice proper cutting techniques.

Intermediate:

• Upgrade to the MS 250 for more demanding tasks.
• Learn advanced felling techniques.
• Master chainsaw maintenance.

Strategic Insights: Beyond the Technical Specs

Choosing the right chainsaw is about more than just technical specifications. It’s about understanding your needs, your skills, and your long-term goals.

• Consider your typical projects: What type of wood will you be cutting? How large are the logs? How often will you be using the chainsaw?
• Assess your physical capabilities: Can you comfortably handle a heavier chainsaw? Do you have any physical limitations?
• Think about future needs: Will your needs change in the future? Do you anticipate needing more power or a longer bar?
• Read reviews and get recommendations: Talk to other chainsaw users and read online reviews to get their opinions.

Practical Next Steps: Getting Started with Your Chainsaw

Ready to put your knowledge into action? Here are some practical next steps:

1. Choose your chainsaw: Based on your needs and budget, select either the MS 170 or the MS 250.
2. Purchase essential PPE: Invest in high-quality safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and a helmet.
3. Take a chainsaw safety course: Learn proper cutting techniques and safety precautions from a qualified instructor.
4. Practice cutting techniques: Start with small projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
5. Maintain your chainsaw: Keep your chainsaw clean, sharp, and properly lubricated.
6. Start processing wood: Cut firewood, prune trees, or tackle other wood processing projects.

Conclusion: Making the Right Choice for You

Ultimately, the best chainsaw for you depends on your individual needs and circumstances. The Stihl MS 170 is a great option for light-duty tasks and budget-conscious buyers. The Stihl MS 250 is a more powerful and versatile option for medium-duty tasks and users who need to cut larger logs or denser wood. I hope my experience and insights have helped you make an informed decision. Remember to prioritize safety, practice proper techniques, and enjoy the satisfying feeling of working with wood!

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