Chain For MS170 Tips (5 Essential Cutting Secrets)

Let’s talk upgrades. Before diving into the nitty-gritty of chain selection and cutting techniques for your MS170, I want to share a personal experience that shaped my approach to chainsaw work. Years ago, I was tasked with clearing a heavily wooded area for a cabin build. Armed with a basic chainsaw (not quite an MS170, but similar in class), I struggled. I fought dull chains, kickback, and inefficient cuts. It was frustrating and exhausting. That’s when I realized the importance of not just having a chainsaw, but having the right setup and knowing how to use it. This guide is born from those early struggles and years of learning, refining, and mastering the art of chainsaw operation, specifically tailored for the Stihl MS170.

Chain for MS170 Tips: 5 Essential Cutting Secrets

Choosing the right chain and mastering essential cutting techniques can transform your Stihl MS170 from a basic tool into a powerful and efficient workhorse. I’ve spent countless hours in the field, felling trees, bucking logs, and preparing firewood, and I’ve learned that the chain is just as crucial as the saw itself. In this guide, I’ll share five essential cutting secrets that will improve your MS170’s performance, extend its lifespan, and make your wood processing tasks safer and more enjoyable.

Understanding Your MS170 and Chain Compatibility

The Stihl MS170 is a lightweight, entry-level chainsaw perfect for homeowners and occasional users. It’s designed for small to medium-sized tasks like pruning, limbing, and cutting firewood. However, its capabilities are directly tied to the chain you choose.

Chain Pitch and Gauge: The Foundation of Performance

The pitch and gauge of your chain are fundamental. The pitch refers to the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. The gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove.

MS170 Recommended Pitch: Typically, the MS170 uses a 3/8″ low profile (also known as .375″ LP) pitch chain.
MS170 Recommended Gauge: The standard gauge for the MS170 is .050″.

Using the wrong pitch or gauge will prevent the chain from fitting properly on the bar and sprocket, leading to poor performance and potential damage to your saw. I once tried to use a chain with the wrong pitch on an MS170, and the results were disastrous. The chain jumped off the bar constantly, and the cutting was incredibly slow and uneven.

Takeaway: Always verify the pitch and gauge specifications in your MS170’s manual or on the guide bar before purchasing a new chain. A mismatch can lead to inefficiency and damage.

Types of Chains: Matching the Chain to the Task

Different chain types are designed for different cutting conditions. The most common types are:

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that slice through wood quickly and efficiently. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users due to their aggressive cutting action and increased risk of kickback. I generally avoid these on the MS170 due to the saw’s lower power.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters that are more forgiving in dirty or abrasive conditions. They are a good all-around choice for homeowners and occasional users. I find these to be a good balance of performance and durability for general firewood cutting.
Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have a smaller cutter profile and are designed for safety and ease of use. They are a popular choice for entry-level saws like the MS170 because they reduce the risk of kickback. These are excellent for beginners and those prioritizing safety.

Takeaway: For the MS170, I recommend a semi-chisel or low-profile chain for most tasks. They offer a good balance of cutting performance, durability, and safety.

Chain Length and Drive Links: Getting the Right Fit

The chain length is determined by the number of drive links. This number must match the specifications for your guide bar.

Common MS170 Bar Lengths: The MS170 typically comes with a 14-inch or 16-inch bar.
Corresponding Drive Links: A 14-inch bar usually requires a chain with 50 drive links, while a 16-inch bar needs 55 drive links. Always double-check this number before purchasing.

Takeaway: Always count the drive links on your old chain or consult your saw’s manual to ensure you purchase the correct replacement.

Secret #1: Mastering Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is the single most important factor in achieving efficient and safe cutting. A dull chain forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and straining your saw. I’ve seen firsthand how a well-sharpened chain can transform the cutting performance of an MS170.

The Importance of Consistent Sharpening

I make it a habit to sharpen my chain after every two tanks of gas or whenever I notice a decrease in cutting performance. This ensures that I’m always working with a sharp chain, which makes the job easier and safer.

Signs of a Dull Chain:

The saw produces sawdust instead of chips.
You have to apply excessive pressure to make the saw cut.
The saw pulls to one side while cutting.
The chain smokes or burns the wood.

Takeaway: Regular sharpening is key to maintaining optimal cutting performance and extending the life of your chain.

Sharpening Tools and Techniques

There are several ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Round File and File Guide: This is the most common and affordable method. It requires a round file of the correct diameter for your chain (typically 5/32″ for the MS170) and a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth. I prefer this method for its portability and precision.
Electric Chain Sharpener: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to quickly and easily sharpen the chain. They are more expensive than hand filing but can save time and effort.
Bar-Mounted Sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening the chain while it’s still on the saw. However, it can be less precise than other methods.

Step-by-Step Guide to Hand Sharpening:

Secure the Saw: Place the saw in a vise or on a stable surface to prevent it from moving.
Identify the Correct Angle: The correct sharpening angle is usually marked on the file guide or in your saw’s manual. For the MS170, it’s typically around 30 degrees.
File the Cutters: Place the file guide on the chain and insert the round file into the cutter. File each cutter with smooth, even strokes, maintaining the correct angle and depth. I usually aim for 3-5 strokes per cutter.
Maintain Consistent Length: Ensure that all cutters are sharpened to the same length. This is crucial for smooth and even cutting.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (also known as rakers). These should be slightly lower than the cutters to allow the chain to bite into the wood. File the depth gauges as needed. I usually lower them by about .025″ for softwood and .020″ for hardwood.

Takeaway: Practice makes perfect. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts at sharpening aren’t perfect. With practice, you’ll develop a feel for the correct angle and pressure.

Safety Considerations

Always wear safety glasses and gloves when sharpening your chain. Be careful not to cut yourself with the file or the sharp cutters.

Takeaway: Safety first! Protect yourself from injury by wearing appropriate safety gear.

Secret #2: Optimizing Chain Tension

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail from the bar, while a chain that is too tight can bind and overheat.

Checking Chain Tension

I check the chain tension before each use and adjust it as needed. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.

How to Check Chain Tension:

Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench that came with your saw to loosen the bar nuts.
Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Use the screwdriver or wrench to turn the tensioning screw until the chain is snug against the bar.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Check for Sag: Lift the chain away from the bar in the middle. There should be a small amount of sag (about 1/8 inch).

Takeaway: Regular chain tension checks are essential for safe and efficient cutting.

Adjusting Chain Tension

Chain tension can change as the chain heats up during use. It’s important to adjust the tension as needed to prevent the chain from becoming too loose or too tight.

Adjusting Chain Tension During Use:

Stop the Saw: Turn off the saw and allow it to cool slightly.
Loosen the Bar Nuts: Loosen the bar nuts slightly.
Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Adjust the tensioning screw until the chain is properly tensioned.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts securely.

Takeaway: Be aware of how chain tension changes during use and adjust it accordingly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Over-tightening the Chain: This can cause the chain to bind and overheat, leading to premature wear and tear.
Under-tightening the Chain: This can cause the chain to derail from the bar, which can be dangerous.
Ignoring Chain Tension: Failing to check and adjust chain tension can lead to poor cutting performance and increased risk of accidents.

Takeaway: Avoid these common mistakes to ensure safe and efficient cutting.

Secret #3: Lubrication is Key

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. The chain needs to be constantly lubricated to reduce friction and prevent overheating.

The Importance of Bar and Chain Oil

I use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. This oil is formulated to provide excellent lubrication and prevent rust and corrosion.

Types of Bar and Chain Oil:

Petroleum-Based Oil: This is the most common type of bar and chain oil. It’s affordable and provides good lubrication.
Vegetable-Based Oil: This is a more environmentally friendly option. It’s biodegradable and less toxic than petroleum-based oil. However, it can be more expensive.
Synthetic Oil: This is the most expensive type of bar and chain oil. It provides superior lubrication and protection, especially in extreme conditions.

Takeaway: Choose a high-quality bar and chain oil that is appropriate for your cutting conditions.

Checking Oil Levels

I check the oil level in my MS170’s oil tank before each use and refill it as needed. A low oil level can lead to chain and bar damage.

How to Check Oil Levels:

Locate the Oil Tank: The oil tank is usually located near the fuel tank.
Check the Oil Level: Remove the oil cap and check the oil level. If the oil level is low, refill the tank with bar and chain oil.

Takeaway: Regular oil level checks are crucial for preventing chain and bar damage.

Oiling System Maintenance

The MS170 has an automatic oiling system that delivers oil to the chain and bar. It’s important to keep this system clean and functioning properly.

Maintaining the Oiling System:

Clean the Oil Port: Regularly clean the oil port on the bar to ensure that oil is flowing freely.
Check the Oil Pump: Periodically check the oil pump to make sure it’s working properly. If the pump is not working, it may need to be replaced.
Clean the Oil Tank: Clean the oil tank periodically to remove any debris or contaminants.

Takeaway: Regular maintenance of the oiling system is essential for optimal chain and bar lubrication.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using the Wrong Oil: Using the wrong type of oil can damage your chain and bar.
Running the Saw Dry: Running the saw without oil can cause the chain and bar to overheat and seize up.
Ignoring Oiling System Problems: Ignoring problems with the oiling system can lead to premature wear and tear on your chain and bar.

Takeaway: Avoid these common mistakes to ensure proper chain and bar lubrication.

Secret #4: Safe Cutting Techniques

Safe cutting techniques are paramount when operating a chainsaw. Kickback is a major hazard, and understanding how to avoid it is crucial for preventing serious injury. I’ve witnessed accidents caused by kickback, and they are often preventable with proper technique.

Understanding Kickback

Kickback occurs when the tip of the bar (the “kickback zone”) contacts an object, causing the saw to suddenly thrust upward and backward. This can happen in a fraction of a second, and the force can be significant.

Factors that Increase the Risk of Kickback:

Cutting with the tip of the bar.
Pinching the bar in the cut.
Cutting above shoulder height.
Cutting in tight spaces.
Using a dull chain.

Takeaway: Be aware of the factors that increase the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid them.

Avoiding Kickback

There are several techniques you can use to avoid kickback.

Use a Reduced-Kickback Chain: These chains have features that reduce the risk of kickback. As mentioned earlier, low-profile chains are a good option.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Keep a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
Stand to the Side: Stand slightly to the side of the cut to avoid being in the path of a potential kickback.
Avoid Cutting with the Tip of the Bar: Be aware of the location of the tip of the bar and avoid contacting it with objects.
Cut at a Low Angle: Cutting at a low angle reduces the risk of pinching the bar.

Takeaway: Practice these techniques to minimize the risk of kickback.

Safe Cutting Practices

In addition to avoiding kickback, there are other safe cutting practices you should follow.

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles from the work area.
Plan Your Cuts: Think about the direction the tree or log will fall and make sure there is a clear path.
Use Proper Body Mechanics: Lift with your legs, not your back. Avoid reaching or overextending.
Take Breaks: Chainsaw work can be physically demanding. Take breaks to avoid fatigue.

Takeaway: Follow these safe cutting practices to prevent accidents and injuries.

Felling Techniques (Basic)

While the MS170 isn’t ideal for felling large trees, it can be used for smaller ones with proper technique.

Assess the Tree: Check for lean, dead branches, and other hazards.
Plan the Fall: Determine the direction you want the tree to fall.
Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from the felling zone.
Make a Notch Cut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction of the fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Make a Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
Wedge the Cut (If Necessary): Use a felling wedge to help direct the fall.
Retreat Safely: Once the tree starts to fall, move away quickly and safely.

Takeaway: Felling trees requires careful planning and execution. If you are not comfortable with felling techniques, seek professional assistance.

Secret #5: Chain Maintenance and Storage

Proper chain maintenance and storage are essential for extending the life of your chain and ensuring its optimal performance.

Cleaning the Chain

I clean my chain after each use to remove sawdust, sap, and other debris. This helps prevent rust and corrosion and keeps the chain running smoothly.

How to Clean the Chain:

Remove the Chain: Remove the chain from the bar.
Use a Brush: Use a stiff brush to remove any loose debris.
Soak in Solvent: Soak the chain in a solvent such as kerosene or mineral spirits to remove stubborn residue.
Dry the Chain: Dry the chain thoroughly before storing it.

Takeaway: Regular cleaning is essential for maintaining a clean and efficient chain.

Storing the Chain

I store my chain in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion. I also coat the chain with bar and chain oil to protect it.

How to Store the Chain:

Clean the Chain: Clean the chain as described above.
Coat with Oil: Coat the chain with bar and chain oil.
Store in a Dry Place: Store the chain in a dry place, such as a toolbox or a plastic container.

Takeaway: Proper storage is crucial for preventing rust and corrosion.

Inspecting the Chain

I inspect my chain regularly for signs of wear and damage. This includes checking for broken or cracked cutters, worn drive links, and loose rivets.

Signs of Chain Wear and Damage:

Broken or cracked cutters.
Worn drive links.
Loose rivets.
Stretched chain.

Takeaway: Regular inspection can help you identify problems before they lead to serious damage or accidents.

Replacing the Chain

Eventually, your chain will wear out and need to be replaced. When it’s time to replace your chain, be sure to choose the correct replacement for your MS170.

When to Replace the Chain:

When the cutters are worn down to the point where they can no longer be sharpened.
When the chain is stretched beyond its limits.
When there are broken or cracked cutters.
When there are loose rivets.

Takeaway: Replacing your chain when necessary is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cutting.

Final Thoughts

Mastering these five essential cutting secrets will significantly improve the performance and longevity of your Stihl MS170 chainsaw. Remember, a sharp chain, proper tension, consistent lubrication, safe cutting techniques, and diligent maintenance are the cornerstones of successful and safe chainsaw operation. My years of experience have taught me that investing the time and effort to learn these skills is well worth it. Not only will you be able to tackle wood processing tasks more efficiently, but you’ll also be able to do so with greater confidence and safety. So, get out there, put these secrets into practice, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with a well-maintained and properly operated chainsaw.