Briggs and Stratton Pull Cord Length Guide (5 Pro Tips)
The rough bark of a freshly felled oak, the smooth, almost polished feel of seasoned cherry, the splintery resistance of splitting elm – these textures are the very essence of working with wood. And at the heart of so many wood processing operations, whether it’s felling trees for timber or bucking rounds for firewood, lies the dependable Briggs & Stratton engine. But a balky pull cord can bring the whole operation to a screeching halt. I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, and I know firsthand the frustration of a pull cord that’s too short, frayed, or simply refuses to retract. Getting the pull cord length just right is crucial for reliable starts and preventing unnecessary wear and tear on the engine. This guide, born from years of experience, will walk you through everything you need to know about Briggs & Stratton pull cord length, offering pro tips to keep your engine roaring.
Briggs & Stratton Pull Cord Length Guide (5 Pro Tips)
Why Pull Cord Length Matters: More Than Just Starting
The pull cord on your Briggs & Stratton engine might seem like a simple component, but its length plays a critical role in the engine’s performance and longevity. Too short, and you’ll struggle to get a full, powerful pull, potentially damaging the recoil mechanism or even injuring yourself. Too long, and the cord can tangle, wear out prematurely, or fail to retract properly. In my experience, a well-maintained pull cord of the correct length is a sign of a well-maintained engine overall.
Think of it this way: the pull cord is the key that unlocks the engine’s power. A bent or broken key won’t work, and neither will a poorly sized pull cord. I’ve seen guys force a too-short cord, only to strip the starter pawls or break the recoil spring. On the other hand, a cord that’s too long can get caught in the engine’s cooling fan, causing serious damage.
Understanding the Basics: Key Terms and Concepts
Before diving into the specifics of pull cord length, let’s clarify some key terms.
- Recoil Starter: The mechanism that houses the pull cord, spring, and starter pawls. It’s responsible for retracting the cord after each pull and engaging the engine’s flywheel.
- Starter Pawls (Dogs): Small, pivoting components within the recoil starter that engage with the flywheel to turn the engine over.
- Flywheel: A heavy, rotating disc connected to the engine’s crankshaft. The starter pawls engage with the flywheel to initiate engine rotation.
- Grommet: The eyelet or opening through which the pull cord passes on the engine housing.
- Nylon Cord: The most common type of pull cord, known for its strength and resistance to abrasion.
- Diameter: The thickness of the pull cord, typically measured in millimeters.
These components work together seamlessly when properly maintained. A frayed cord, for instance, can damage the grommet, leading to further wear and tear. Similarly, a weak recoil spring can prevent the cord from retracting fully, making the engine harder to start.
Pro Tip #1: Determining the Correct Pull Cord Length
Finding the right pull cord length isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. It depends on the specific Briggs & Stratton engine model and the design of the recoil starter. Here’s how I approach it:
- Consult the Owner’s Manual: This is your first and most reliable source of information. The manual will typically specify the recommended pull cord length and diameter for your engine model.
- Measure the Old Cord (If Available): If you’re replacing an existing cord, carefully measure its length before removing it. This provides a baseline for the new cord. Make sure the old cord isn’t stretched or damaged, as this can affect the accuracy of the measurement.
- Use the “Full Extension” Method: If you don’t have the original cord or the owner’s manual, this method works well.
- Remove the old cord completely from the recoil starter.
- Pull the recoil starter mechanism out until it stops (full extension).
- Measure the distance from the recoil starter to the handle.
- Add approximately 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) to this measurement. This extra length provides enough cord to comfortably grip and pull.
- General Guidelines: Here are some general guidelines for common Briggs & Stratton engine sizes:
- Small Engines (e.g., lawnmowers, tillers): 60-72 inches (150-180 cm)
- Medium Engines (e.g., pressure washers, generators): 72-84 inches (180-210 cm)
- Large Engines (e.g., riding mowers, larger generators): 84-96 inches (210-240 cm)
Case Study: I once worked on an old riding mower where the owner’s manual was long gone. Using the “full extension” method, I determined that the correct pull cord length was approximately 80 inches. After installing a new cord of that length, the engine started on the first pull.
Important Note: Always err on the side of slightly longer rather than shorter. A cord that’s too short can be dangerous and can damage the recoil starter.
Pro Tip #2: Choosing the Right Type of Pull Cord
The type of pull cord you choose is just as important as its length. Here’s what I look for:
- Material: Nylon is the most common and generally the best choice. It’s strong, durable, and resistant to abrasion. Avoid cheaper cords made of cotton or other synthetic materials, as they tend to fray and break easily.
- Diameter: The diameter of the cord should match the specifications in the owner’s manual. Using a cord that’s too thick can cause it to bind in the recoil starter, while a cord that’s too thin can break under stress. Common diameters range from 3mm to 5mm.
- Construction: Look for a braided cord with a tight weave. This will provide maximum strength and prevent the cord from unraveling.
- UV Resistance: If your engine is exposed to direct sunlight, choose a cord that is UV resistant. This will prevent the cord from becoming brittle and cracking over time.
My Recommendation: I personally prefer using a high-quality, braided nylon cord with a diameter of 4mm for most small to medium Briggs & Stratton engines. I’ve found that this size offers a good balance of strength, flexibility, and durability. Brands like Oregon and Stens offer excellent options.
Pro Tip #3: Replacing the Pull Cord: A Step-by-Step Guide
Replacing a pull cord is a straightforward task that most DIYers can handle. Here’s my step-by-step guide:
- Safety First: Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting.
- Remove the Recoil Starter: Typically, this involves removing a few screws or bolts that secure the recoil starter to the engine housing.
- Carefully Disassemble the Recoil Starter: This is the most delicate part of the process.
- Important: The recoil spring is under tension and can cause injury if released suddenly. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Slowly and carefully unwind the recoil spring, noting its orientation.
- Remove the old pull cord from the spool.
- Install the New Pull Cord:
- Thread one end of the new cord through the hole in the spool and tie a secure knot.
- Wind the cord evenly around the spool.
- Reinstall the Recoil Spring: This can be tricky.
- Insert the spring into its housing, ensuring it’s properly seated.
- Pre-tension the spring by rotating the spool several times in the direction that winds the cord. The amount of pre-tension will vary depending on the engine model. Consult the owner’s manual or online resources for specific instructions.
- Reassemble the Recoil Starter: Carefully align the components and reattach the screws or bolts.
- Test the Pull Cord: Pull the cord several times to ensure it retracts smoothly and fully.
- Reconnect the Spark Plug Wire: You’re ready to start the engine!
Tools You’ll Need:
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Pliers
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
- New pull cord
- Lighter (to melt the end of the cord and prevent fraying)
Troubleshooting Tips:
- Cord Won’t Retract: This usually indicates a weak or broken recoil spring. Consider replacing the spring.
- Cord Binding: This could be due to a cord that’s too thick, a damaged grommet, or improper winding of the cord on the spool.
- Cord Breaking: This is often caused by a frayed cord, a cord that’s too thin, or excessive wear and tear.
Pro Tip #4: Maintaining Your Pull Cord for Longevity
Proper maintenance is key to extending the life of your pull cord. Here are some tips I’ve learned over the years:
- Inspect Regularly: Check the cord for signs of fraying, wear, or damage. Replace the cord immediately if you notice any problems.
- Keep it Clean: Dirt and debris can accelerate wear and tear. Wipe the cord clean with a damp cloth as needed.
- Avoid Over-Pulling: Don’t pull the cord all the way out to its maximum extension. This can put excessive strain on the recoil spring and the cord itself.
- Store Properly: When not in use, store your engine in a dry, protected location. This will prevent the cord from being exposed to the elements and deteriorating prematurely.
- Lubricate (Sparingly): A tiny amount of silicone lubricant on the cord can help it retract smoothly and prevent friction. Be careful not to over-lubricate, as this can attract dirt and debris.
Real-World Example: I once had a customer who complained that his pull cords were constantly breaking. After inspecting his equipment, I discovered that he was storing his lawnmower outdoors, exposed to direct sunlight and rain. The UV radiation and moisture were causing the cords to become brittle and crack. By simply storing the mower indoors, he significantly extended the life of his pull cords.
Pro Tip #5: Advanced Techniques and Considerations
For those who want to take their pull cord maintenance to the next level, here are some advanced techniques and considerations:
- Upgrading to a Heavy-Duty Cord: If you frequently use your engine in demanding conditions, consider upgrading to a heavy-duty pull cord made of Kevlar or other high-strength materials. These cords are more resistant to abrasion and wear.
- Replacing the Recoil Spring: If your recoil spring is weak or broken, replacing it is a relatively simple task. You can purchase replacement springs online or at most hardware stores.
- Modifying the Handle: Some users prefer to modify the pull cord handle for a more comfortable grip. You can purchase aftermarket handles or even create your own using wood or other materials.
- Understanding Engine Compression: A high compression engine will require more effort to pull the cord. If you’re struggling to start your engine, it could be due to high compression rather than a problem with the pull cord itself. Consider using a compression release valve to make starting easier.
- Safety Mechanisms: Some newer Briggs & Stratton engines have safety mechanisms that prevent the engine from starting if the pull cord is not fully retracted. Make sure you understand how these mechanisms work and how to troubleshoot them.
Cost Considerations:
- Pull Cord: $5 – $15
- Recoil Spring: $10 – $20
- Heavy-Duty Cord: $15 – $30
- Professional Repair: $50 – $100
Skill Level Required:
- Replacing a pull cord: Beginner
- Replacing a recoil spring: Intermediate
- Modifying the handle: Intermediate to Advanced
Strategic Advantages:
- Inspect your existing pull cords: Identify any signs of wear, fraying, or damage.
- Determine the correct pull cord length: Consult your owner’s manual or use the “full extension” method.
- Purchase high-quality replacement cords: Choose nylon cords with the correct diameter and construction.
- Replace any damaged or worn cords: Follow the step-by-step guide outlined in this article.
- Implement a regular maintenance schedule: Inspect and clean your pull cords regularly.
By following these steps, you can ensure that your Briggs & Stratton engines start reliably and perform optimally for years to come. Remember, a little maintenance goes a long way! The satisfying roar of a well-started engine, thanks to a properly maintained pull cord, is a reward in itself.
