Bore Cut Techniques for Tree Felling (Expert Tips & Tools Explained)

Innovation in tree felling techniques is constantly evolving, driven by the need for increased safety, efficiency, and reduced environmental impact. One such innovation is the bore cut, a technique that offers superior control and precision compared to traditional felling methods. In this guide, I’ll share my expertise on bore cutting, gleaned from years of hands-on experience in the woods. I’ll break down the technique, explain the tools involved, and provide step-by-step instructions to help you master this valuable skill. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a homeowner preparing firewood, understanding bore cutting can significantly improve your felling operations.

Understanding Bore Cut Techniques for Tree Felling

The bore cut, also known as a plunge cut or a pocket cut, is a specialized felling technique where the chainsaw is used to create a controlled cavity inside the tree before the final felling cut is made. This technique offers enhanced control over the direction of the fall, reduces the risk of barber chairing (where the tree splits upwards unexpectedly), and is particularly useful for trees with a forward lean or uneven weight distribution.

Key Concepts and Definitions

Before diving into the specifics, let’s define some essential terms:

• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut timber with a high moisture content (often above 30%). Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has been dried to a lower moisture content (typically 15-20%) through air drying or kiln drying. The moisture content affects the weight, strength, and burning properties of the wood. Bore cutting is typically used on green wood as it is more pliable.
• Barber Chairing: This dangerous situation occurs when a tree splits vertically upwards during felling, often due to tension in the wood. Bore cutting helps to prevent this by relieving tension before the final cut.
• Hinge Wood: The remaining strip of wood between the bore cut and the back cut. This acts as a hinge, guiding the tree’s fall in the desired direction. Controlling the hinge wood is crucial for safe and accurate felling.
• Felling Wedge: A tool used to physically push the tree over in the intended direction, especially helpful when the tree is leaning slightly against the desired fall.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.

My First Encounter with Bore Cutting

I remember the first time I saw a seasoned logger use a bore cut. I was a young apprentice, felling trees using only the traditional face notch and back cut. We were dealing with a particularly large oak with a significant lean towards a busy road. The older logger, seeing my hesitation, showed me the bore cut technique. The control he exhibited, and the precision with which the tree fell, was nothing short of impressive. That day, I realized the importance of mastering specialized felling techniques.

Essential Tools for Bore Cutting

Having the right tools is paramount for safe and effective bore cutting. Here’s a breakdown of the tools I recommend:

• Chainsaw: A professional-grade chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the tree diameter is essential. I personally prefer chainsaws in the 60-70cc range with a 20-24 inch bar for most hardwoods. Stihl and Husqvarna are my go-to brands for their reliability and power.
  • Specifications: For bore cutting, a chainsaw with good anti-vibration features and a chain brake is crucial. Chain speed should be at least 9,000 RPM for efficient cutting.
• Felling Axe: A sharp felling axe is useful for clearing brush around the base of the tree and for driving felling wedges. I use a 3.5 lb axe with a 36-inch handle.
• Felling Wedges: Plastic or aluminum felling wedges are used to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent the saw from binding. I carry a variety of sizes, typically ranging from 5 inches to 10 inches.
• Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the tree diameter and determine the depth of the bore cut.
• Marking Crayon or Paint: To mark the felling cuts and the desired direction of fall.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. Always wear a helmet with face shield and hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.
• First Aid Kit: A well-stocked first aid kit is essential for treating minor injuries.
• Communication Device: A two-way radio or cell phone for communication in case of emergencies.

A Note on Chainsaw Maintenance

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. Regularly sharpen your chain and ensure the chainsaw is properly maintained. I sharpen my chain after every tank of fuel, or more frequently if cutting in dirty or sandy conditions. A sharp chain will cut more efficiently and reduce the risk of kickback.

Step-by-Step Guide to Bore Cutting

Now, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of bore cutting. Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide:

1. Assess the Tree and Surroundings: Before making any cuts, thoroughly assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards such as dead branches or power lines. Clear the area around the base of the tree and create a clear escape path. This is the most critical part of the process. If the tree is leaning heavily or has significant defects, consider calling in a professional arborist.
   • Case Study: I once had to fell a large maple tree that was leaning heavily towards a house. After careful assessment, I determined that a bore cut was the safest option. I used multiple felling wedges to ensure the tree fell away from the house.
2. Plan Your Cut: Decide on the direction of fall and visualize the entire felling process. Mark the location of the face notch, bore cut, and back cut using a marking crayon or paint.
3. Cut the Face Notch: The face notch, typically angled at 45 degrees, determines the direction of fall. The depth of the face notch should be approximately 20% of the tree’s diameter. Ensure the two cuts of the face notch meet precisely.
   • Measurement: For a tree with a 20-inch diameter, the face notch should be approximately 4 inches deep.
4. Position Yourself Safely: Stand to the side of the tree, never directly behind it. Ensure you have a stable stance and a clear escape path.
5. Begin the Bore Cut: With the chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the tree, just behind the face notch. Use the lower portion of the bar tip to avoid kickback. Slowly and steadily advance the bar into the tree, keeping the saw level and maintaining a consistent depth.
   • Technique: The bore cut should extend approximately 80% of the tree’s diameter. Leave a hinge of wood on either side of the cut, approximately 1-2 inches wide.
   • Experience: I’ve found that rocking the saw slightly from side to side while plunging can help to clear the chips and reduce the risk of pinching.
6. Check for Pinching: Periodically stop the saw and check for pinching. If the saw is binding, use a felling wedge to relieve the pressure.
7. Create the Hinge Wood: Once the bore cut is complete, carefully remove the chainsaw and inspect the hinge wood. The hinge should be of uniform thickness and should extend across the back of the tree, connecting the bore cut to the back cut.
   • Importance: The hinge wood is crucial for controlling the fall of the tree. Too much hinge wood can cause the tree to kick back, while too little hinge wood can cause the tree to fall unpredictably.
8. Make the Back Cut: The back cut should be made slightly above the bore cut, leaving approximately 1-2 inches of hinge wood. Use a felling wedge to prevent the saw from binding.
   • Safety: Never cut completely through the hinge wood. Always leave a small amount of wood to maintain control of the tree.
9. Insert Felling Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert felling wedges into the cut to help direct the fall of the tree. Drive the wedges in firmly using a felling axe or a hammer.
10. Final Cut and Fall: Once the back cut is nearly complete and the felling wedges are in place, give the wedges a final blow to initiate the fall. Step away from the tree quickly and move to your pre-planned escape path.
    • Observation: Watch the tree carefully as it falls. If it starts to fall in an unexpected direction, be prepared to take evasive action.

Advanced Bore Cutting Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basic bore cut, you can explore some advanced techniques to handle more challenging situations:

The Open-Faced Bore Cut

This technique is useful for trees with a significant lean or uneven weight distribution. It involves creating a larger face notch, typically angled at 70-90 degrees, which allows for greater control over the direction of fall. The bore cut is then made behind the face notch, as described above.

The Humboldt Cut

The Humboldt cut is similar to the open-faced bore cut, but it involves creating a horizontal face notch. This technique is often used for felling trees in steep terrain, where it’s important to control the roll of the log after it falls.

Using a Chainsaw Winch

For extremely large or dangerous trees, a chainsaw winch can be used to provide additional pulling power. The winch is attached to the tree and used to pull it over in the desired direction.

Dealing with Springpoles

Springpoles are small trees or branches that are bent under tension. Cutting them can be extremely dangerous, as they can snap back with considerable force. When dealing with springpoles, use extreme caution and wear appropriate PPE. Make small, controlled cuts to gradually release the tension.

Safety Considerations

Safety is paramount when felling trees. Here are some essential safety considerations:

• Wear appropriate PPE at all times.
• Never work alone. Always have a spotter present to watch for hazards and provide assistance.
• Be aware of your surroundings. Scan the area for potential hazards such as power lines, roads, and buildings.
• Never fell trees in high winds or adverse weather conditions.
• Maintain a safe distance from the tree while it’s falling.
• Inspect your equipment regularly and ensure it’s in good working order.
• Take a chainsaw safety course. Proper training is essential for safe and effective tree felling.
• Always have a first aid kit readily available and know how to use it.
• Communicate clearly with your spotter and other workers. Use hand signals or two-way radios to ensure everyone is on the same page.
• Never work when you’re fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
• Respect the power of the chainsaw and the trees you’re felling.

Wood Type Selection and Firewood Preparation

The type of wood you’re felling will influence how you prepare it for firewood. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and ash are denser and burn longer, making them ideal for firewood. Softwoods like pine and fir burn faster and produce more smoke, but they can be useful for kindling.

Drying Methods

Properly drying firewood is essential for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and reduces its heat output. Air drying is the most common method for drying firewood.

• Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, off the ground, with plenty of air circulation.
• Location: Choose a sunny, windy location for your woodpile.
• Time: Allow the firewood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning.
  • Data: Studies have shown that air drying can reduce the moisture content of firewood from over 50% to below 20% in about a year.

Splitting Firewood

Splitting firewood makes it easier to handle and speeds up the drying process. You can split firewood manually using a splitting axe or maul, or you can use a hydraulic log splitter.

• Axe vs. Splitter: A splitting axe is a traditional tool that requires significant physical effort. A hydraulic log splitter is more efficient and reduces the risk of injury.
  • Efficiency: A hydraulic log splitter can split a cord of wood in a fraction of the time it would take to split it manually.
• Wood Hardness: The type of wood you’re splitting will affect the amount of force required. Hardwoods like oak and maple are more difficult to split than softwoods like pine and fir.

Stacking Firewood

Properly stacking firewood not only makes it easier to manage but also promotes air circulation, which is essential for drying.

• Methods: There are several different methods for stacking firewood, including the traditional row stack, the round stack, and the crib stack.
• Aesthetics: Some people take pride in creating aesthetically pleasing woodpiles.

Strategic Advantages of Bore Cutting

Bore cutting offers several strategic advantages over traditional felling methods:

• Increased Control: Bore cutting provides greater control over the direction of fall, especially in challenging situations.
• Reduced Risk of Barber Chairing: By relieving tension in the wood before the final cut, bore cutting reduces the risk of barber chairing.
• Improved Safety: Bore cutting can improve safety by reducing the risk of kickback and other hazards.
• Precision Felling: Bore cutting allows for more precise felling, which can be important when working in confined spaces or near valuable structures.
• Versatility: Bore cutting can be used in a variety of situations, from felling small trees to handling large, leaning trees.

Costs, Material Specs, and Timing Estimates

Here’s a breakdown of the costs, material specs, and timing estimates associated with bore cutting and firewood preparation:

• Chainsaw: A professional-grade chainsaw can cost anywhere from $800 to $1500.
• PPE: PPE can cost $200-$500 depending on quality.
• Felling Wedges: Felling wedges typically cost $10-$20 each.
• Splitting Axe: A good quality splitting axe can cost $50-$100.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter can cost $1000-$3000.
• Material Specs: Aim for a moisture content of 15-20% for seasoned firewood.
• Timing Estimates: Air drying firewood typically takes 6-12 months. Splitting a cord of wood manually can take 8-12 hours. Splitting a cord of wood with a hydraulic log splitter can take 2-4 hours.

Skill Levels Required

Bore cutting requires a moderate level of skill and experience. It’s essential to have a solid understanding of chainsaw safety and felling techniques before attempting a bore cut. Start with smaller trees and gradually work your way up to larger trees as your skills improve. Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn the proper techniques and safety procedures.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to put your newfound knowledge into practice? Here are some practical next steps:

1. Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: This is the most important step. A safety course will teach you the proper techniques and safety procedures for operating a chainsaw.
2. Practice on Smaller Trees: Start by practicing bore cutting on smaller trees in a safe and controlled environment.
3. Gradually Increase the Size of the Trees: As your skills improve, gradually increase the size of the trees you’re felling.
4. Seek Guidance from Experienced Loggers: If possible, seek guidance from experienced loggers or arborists. They can provide valuable tips and advice.
5. Always Prioritize Safety: Never compromise on safety. Always wear appropriate PPE and follow safe work practices.

Conclusion

Mastering the bore cut technique can significantly enhance your tree felling capabilities, offering greater control, precision, and safety. While it requires practice and a solid understanding of chainsaw operation, the benefits are well worth the effort. Remember to prioritize safety, invest in quality tools, and continuously seek opportunities to improve your skills. With dedication and practice, you’ll be felling trees like a pro in no time.

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