Bolens Leaf Blower Troubleshooting (5 Expert Fixes for No Spark)

Ever been knee-deep in autumn leaves, ready to unleash the fury of your Bolens leaf blower, only to be met with… silence? It’s frustrating, I know. There’s nothing worse than a stubborn engine when you’re battling nature’s annual confetti storm. More often than not, the culprit is a lack of spark. But don’t despair and resign yourself to raking for the rest of the afternoon. I’ve spent countless hours wrestling with small engines, from chainsaws to tillers, and I’m here to share my expertise with you. Together, we’ll troubleshoot that no-spark issue and get your Bolens leaf blower roaring back to life.

Bolens Leaf Blower Troubleshooting: 5 Expert Fixes for No Spark

Before we dive in, let’s establish a baseline. We’re talking about a two-stroke engine here, meaning it needs a good mix of air, fuel, and spark to ignite. No spark means no boom, and no boom means a whole lot of leaves still covering your lawn. I’ll walk you through the most common causes of a no-spark condition and how to fix them, drawing on my own experiences and the wisdom I’ve gleaned from seasoned loggers and small engine mechanics over the years.

1. The Spark Plug: The Obvious Suspect (But Don’t Overlook It!)

Let’s start with the low-hanging fruit. The spark plug is the most common reason for a no-spark situation. It’s like the fuse in your home’s electrical system; it’s designed to take the brunt of the abuse.

Why it fails: Spark plugs can get fouled with carbon deposits, oil, or fuel residue. They can also simply wear out over time, especially if you’re using the wrong fuel mixture or the engine is running too rich.

The fix:

  • Visual Inspection: Remove the spark plug. Take a close look at the electrode (the tip that creates the spark). Is it black and oily? White and brittle? Either indicates a problem. A healthy spark plug should be a light tan or gray color.

  • Cleaning: If the plug is just a bit dirty, you can try cleaning it. Use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner to remove any deposits.

  • Gap Check: The gap is the space between the electrode and the ground electrode. The correct gap is crucial for a strong spark. Refer to your Bolens leaf blower’s manual for the specific gap measurement (usually around 0.025-0.030 inches). Use a spark plug gap tool to measure and adjust the gap.

  • Spark Test: This is the real test. Reconnect the spark plug to the spark plug wire. Hold the threaded part of the spark plug against the engine block (this grounds it). Pull the starter cord. You should see a bright blue spark jump across the gap. If you see a weak spark, an orange spark, or no spark at all, the spark plug is likely bad.

  • Replacement: Spark plugs are cheap. If in doubt, just replace it. It’s a good idea to keep a spare on hand anyway.

My experience: I once spent an entire afternoon tearing apart a chainsaw, convinced the ignition module was shot, only to discover a hairline crack in the ceramic insulator of the spark plug. A $5 replacement and the saw was back in business. Lesson learned: always start with the basics.

2. The Spark Plug Wire and Boot: A Pathway to Failure

The spark plug wire and boot are the unsung heroes of the ignition system. They deliver the high-voltage electricity from the ignition module to the spark plug. If they’re damaged, corroded, or loose, you’ll lose spark.

Why it fails: The wire can become brittle and cracked from heat and exposure to the elements. The boot (the rubber cap that connects to the spark plug) can become loose or corroded, preventing a good connection.

The fix:

  • Visual Inspection: Check the wire for cracks, cuts, or abrasions. Inspect the boot for damage, especially around the connection to the spark plug.

  • Connection Check: Make sure the boot is securely attached to the spark plug. Pull on it gently to ensure it’s not loose.

  • Continuity Test: Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the spark plug wire. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting (resistance). Place one probe on one end of the wire and the other probe on the other end. You should get a reading close to zero ohms. If you get a reading of infinity or a very high number, the wire is broken and needs to be replaced.

  • Boot Replacement: If the boot is damaged or corroded, you can often replace just the boot itself. These are readily available at most small engine repair shops.

  • Wire Replacement: If the wire is damaged, you’ll need to replace the entire spark plug wire. This usually involves removing the ignition module to access the wire connection.

Data Point: Studies have shown that spark plug wires exposed to high temperatures and ozone (common in small engine environments) degrade significantly faster than those in controlled environments. Regular inspection and replacement can prevent no-spark issues and improve engine performance.

3. The Ignition Coil/Module: The Heart of the Spark

The ignition coil (also sometimes called the ignition module) is responsible for generating the high-voltage electricity that creates the spark. It’s a critical component, and when it fails, you’re dead in the water.

Why it fails: Ignition coils can fail due to heat, vibration, and electrical stress. They can also be damaged by moisture or corrosion.

The fix:

  • Visual Inspection: Look for cracks, burns, or other signs of damage on the ignition coil.

  • Air Gap Check: The ignition coil needs to be properly positioned in relation to the flywheel. The air gap (the distance between the ignition coil and the flywheel) is critical for proper operation. Refer to your Bolens leaf blower’s manual for the correct air gap measurement (usually around 0.010-0.015 inches). Use a feeler gauge to measure and adjust the air gap.

  • Resistance Test: Use a multimeter to test the primary and secondary resistance of the ignition coil. The correct resistance values will vary depending on the specific model of your Bolens leaf blower. Refer to the service manual for the correct specifications. If the resistance readings are outside of the specified range, the ignition coil is likely bad.

  • Spark Test (with Ignition Coil Connected): Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Insert a screwdriver into the spark plug boot. Hold the metal shaft of the screwdriver close to the engine block (grounding it). Pull the starter cord. You should see a spark jump from the screwdriver to the engine block. If you don’t see a spark, the ignition coil is likely bad.

  • Replacement: Replacing the ignition coil is a bit more involved than replacing a spark plug, but it’s still a manageable DIY project. Make sure to disconnect the spark plug wire before you start working on the ignition coil. Take pictures as you disassemble the engine so you can remember how everything goes back together.

Unique Insight: Many older ignition coils used a condenser to help store energy and improve spark. Modern ignition modules are typically solid-state and don’t require a condenser. If you’re working on an older Bolens leaf blower, the condenser could be the culprit if you’re not getting spark.

4. The Kill Switch: The Silent Assassin

The kill switch is a simple but often overlooked component. Its job is to ground the ignition system, preventing the engine from running. If the kill switch is faulty or the wiring is damaged, it can prevent the engine from starting, even if the ignition system is otherwise working perfectly.

Why it fails: Kill switches can fail due to corrosion, dirt, or physical damage. The wiring can become frayed or disconnected.

The fix:

  • Visual Inspection: Check the kill switch for damage or corrosion. Inspect the wiring for damage or loose connections.

  • Continuity Test: Disconnect the kill switch from the ignition module. Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the kill switch. With the kill switch in the “run” position, there should be no continuity (an open circuit). With the kill switch in the “stop” position, there should be continuity (a closed circuit). If the kill switch doesn’t pass this test, it’s likely bad.

  • Wiring Check: Check the wiring from the kill switch to the ignition module for damage or loose connections. Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the wiring.

  • Disconnect the Kill Switch: As a test, disconnect the kill switch from the ignition module. If the engine starts with the kill switch disconnected, the kill switch is the problem.

  • Replacement: Replacing the kill switch is usually a simple matter of disconnecting the old switch and connecting the new one.

Personalized Story: I remember once working on a firewood processor that refused to start. I spent hours troubleshooting the engine, convinced it was a fuel issue. Finally, in desperation, I disconnected the kill switch, and the engine roared to life. Turns out a tiny twig had jammed the kill switch in the “off” position. Talk about a facepalm moment!

5. The Flywheel Key: The Timing Guardian

The flywheel key is a small, crescent-shaped piece of metal that sits between the crankshaft and the flywheel. Its job is to ensure that the flywheel is properly aligned with the crankshaft, which is crucial for proper ignition timing. If the flywheel key is sheared or damaged, the timing will be off, and you won’t get spark.

Why it fails: The flywheel key can shear if the engine is subjected to a sudden shock, such as hitting a rock with a lawnmower blade or over-tightening the flywheel nut.

The fix:

  • Visual Inspection: This requires removing the flywheel. This can be a bit tricky, as the flywheel is usually held in place with a nut that is tightened to a high torque. You may need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel without damaging it. Once the flywheel is removed, inspect the flywheel key for damage. It should be a clean, crescent shape. If it’s sheared or broken, it needs to be replaced.

  • Replacement: Replacing the flywheel key is a relatively simple process. Just align the new key in the keyway on the crankshaft and reinstall the flywheel. Make sure to tighten the flywheel nut to the correct torque specification.

Case Study: A small logging operation I consulted with was experiencing frequent engine failures on their chainsaws. After analyzing their maintenance practices, I discovered that they were routinely over-tightening the flywheel nuts, which was causing the flywheel keys to shear. By implementing proper torque procedures, they significantly reduced engine failures and downtime.

Wood Processing and Fuel Considerations:

The type of fuel you use and the way you process wood can also indirectly affect your leaf blower’s spark. Here’s how:

  • Fuel Mixture: Two-stroke engines require a precise mixture of gasoline and oil. Using the wrong ratio can lead to carbon buildup on the spark plug, which can prevent it from sparking. Always use the fuel mixture recommended by the manufacturer. I prefer using pre-mixed fuel, as it eliminates the guesswork and ensures a consistent fuel mixture.

  • Fuel Quality: Using old or stale gasoline can also cause problems. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially if it’s stored in a container that’s not airtight. Use fresh gasoline and add a fuel stabilizer to prevent it from going bad.

  • Wood Dust: When processing wood, especially hardwoods like oak or maple, a lot of fine dust is generated. This dust can get into the engine and contaminate the air filter and carburetor, which can affect the engine’s performance and potentially lead to spark plug fouling. Make sure to clean the air filter regularly and keep the engine clean.

Safety First:

Before working on any small engine, always disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting. Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from injury. Work in a well-ventilated area, as gasoline fumes can be harmful.

Final Thoughts:

Troubleshooting a no-spark issue on a Bolens leaf blower can be frustrating, but with a systematic approach and a little patience, you can usually get it running again. Remember to start with the basics, like the spark plug, and work your way through the more complex components. And don’t be afraid to consult the service manual or seek help from a qualified mechanic if you’re unsure about anything.

Now, go forth and conquer those leaves! With these expert fixes, you’ll have your Bolens leaf blower back in action in no time. And remember, a little preventative maintenance can go a long way in preventing future headaches. Happy leaf blowing!

Learn more

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *