Board And Batten Pole Barn: Green Vs Dry Wood Siding (Expert Tips)

Okay, let’s dive into the world of board and batten siding for pole barns, specifically addressing the age-old debate: green versus dry wood. I’ve spent years working with wood, from felling trees to milling lumber and building structures, so I can offer some practical insights that go beyond the textbook definitions. This isn’t just about theory; it’s about what works, what doesn’t, and how to save yourself time, money, and headaches.

Board and Batten Pole Barn: Green vs Dry Wood Siding (Expert Tips)

Choosing the right wood for your board and batten pole barn siding is a critical decision that impacts its longevity, appearance, and structural integrity. Understanding the differences between green (unseasoned) and dry (seasoned) wood, along with their respective advantages and disadvantages, is essential for making an informed choice.

Green Wood vs. Dry Wood: A Quick Overview

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s define our terms:

Green Wood: This is freshly cut lumber that still contains a significant amount of moisture. The moisture content is often above 30%, and in some species, it can be much higher.
Dry Wood (Seasoned Wood): This is lumber that has been dried to reduce its moisture content. The target moisture content depends on the application and the region, but typically ranges from 6% to 12% for interior applications and 12% to 19% for exterior applications.

The Fast Solution: What You Need to Know Right Now

If you’re in a hurry and need a quick answer, here’s the bottom line:

Dry wood is generally preferred for board and batten siding. Its stability minimizes warping, shrinking, and cracking, leading to a longer-lasting and better-looking structure.
Using green wood can save you money upfront, but it requires careful planning and specific techniques to mitigate the risks associated with its high moisture content.

Now, let’s delve into the details.

Why the Choice Matters: Understanding the Implications

The choice between green and dry wood isn’t just a matter of preference; it’s a decision with significant consequences.

Stability and Movement

Wood is a hygroscopic material, meaning it absorbs and releases moisture from the surrounding environment. This moisture exchange causes the wood to expand and contract. Green wood, with its high moisture content, is particularly susceptible to movement as it dries. This movement can lead to:

Warping: Twisting, cupping, or bowing of the boards.
Shrinking: Reduction in the width and thickness of the boards.
Cracking: Splitting of the wood along the grain.
Gaps: Formation of gaps between the boards as they shrink.

Dry wood, on the other hand, has already undergone most of its dimensional change during the drying process. This makes it much more stable and less prone to warping, shrinking, and cracking.

Durability and Resistance to Decay

The moisture content of wood also affects its susceptibility to decay. Green wood, with its high moisture content, provides an ideal environment for fungi and insects that cause rot and decay. Dry wood, with its low moisture content, is much more resistant to these threats.

Ease of Installation

Dry wood is generally easier to work with than green wood. It is lighter, more dimensionally stable, and less likely to bind or warp during installation. This makes it easier to cut, nail, and screw.

The Case for Dry Wood Siding

Let’s explore the benefits of using dry wood for your board and batten siding in more detail.

Enhanced Stability and Longevity

As I mentioned earlier, dry wood is much more stable than green wood. This stability translates to a longer-lasting and better-looking structure. The reduced risk of warping, shrinking, and cracking means that your siding will maintain its appearance and structural integrity for years to come.

Personal Experience: I once used green pine for a small shed project, thinking I could save some money. Within a year, the boards had warped so badly that the siding looked like a funhouse mirror. I had to replace the entire thing, costing me more time and money in the long run.
Data: Studies have shown that properly dried and installed wood siding can last for 50 years or more, while siding made from green wood may only last for 10-20 years.

Improved Aesthetics

Dry wood provides a more uniform and consistent appearance. The reduced risk of warping and cracking ensures that the siding remains straight and true, with minimal gaps. This results in a clean, professional look that enhances the overall aesthetic appeal of your pole barn.

Reduced Maintenance

Dry wood siding requires less maintenance than green wood siding. The reduced risk of warping, shrinking, and cracking means that you’ll spend less time repairing and replacing boards. This can save you significant time and money over the lifespan of your structure.

Better Paint and Stain Adhesion

Dry wood provides a better surface for paint and stain to adhere to. The lower moisture content allows the finish to penetrate the wood more effectively, resulting in a more durable and long-lasting finish. This can help protect the wood from the elements and further extend its lifespan.

The Case for Green Wood Siding (and How to Make it Work)

While dry wood is generally preferred, there are situations where using green wood may be a viable option. Let’s explore the potential benefits and the techniques required to make it work.

Cost Savings

Green wood is typically less expensive than dry wood. This can be a significant advantage if you’re on a tight budget. If you have access to your own timber and a sawmill, the cost savings can be even more substantial.

Traditional Building Techniques

In some traditional building techniques, green wood is actually preferred. This is because green wood is easier to work with, especially when using hand tools. The flexibility of green wood allows it to be bent and shaped more easily, making it ideal for certain types of construction.

Historical Insight: Traditionally, shipbuilders often used green wood for planking because it could be bent and shaped to fit the curves of the hull. As the wood dried, it would tighten and create a watertight seal.

“Live Edge” Aesthetic

If you’re looking for a rustic, natural look, green wood may be a good choice. The natural variations in the wood, including knots, grain patterns, and live edges, can add character and visual interest to your siding.

However, using green wood for siding requires careful planning and specific techniques to mitigate the risks associated with its high moisture content. Here’s how to do it:

Proper Wood Selection

Choose wood species that are known for their stability and resistance to decay. Some good choices include:

Eastern White Cedar: Naturally rot-resistant and dimensionally stable.
Western Red Cedar: Similar to Eastern White Cedar, but with a richer color.
Cypress: Naturally rot-resistant and known for its durability.
Larch: Strong and relatively stable, but requires preservative treatment.

Avoid species that are prone to warping and cracking, such as:

Pine: Can warp and crack easily, especially when green.
Poplar: Soft and prone to decay.
Soft Maple: Can warp and twist during drying.

Careful Installation Techniques

Overlapping Boards: Install the boards with a significant overlap to allow for shrinkage. As the wood dries, the boards will shrink, but the overlap will ensure that there are no gaps. I recommend at least a 1-inch overlap, but more is better.
Spacing: Leave a small gap between the boards to allow for expansion and contraction. This will prevent the boards from buckling or cracking as they dry. A 1/8-inch gap is usually sufficient.
Fasteners: Use corrosion-resistant fasteners, such as stainless steel or galvanized nails or screws. Green wood can be corrosive, so it’s important to use fasteners that won’t rust or corrode.
Avoid Tight Fits: Do not force the boards into place. Allow them to move freely as they dry.
Acclimation: If possible, allow the green wood to acclimate to the local climate for a few weeks before installation. This will allow some of the moisture to evaporate and reduce the amount of shrinkage that occurs after installation.

Proper Ventilation

Ensure that the siding is properly ventilated. This will help to prevent moisture buildup and reduce the risk of rot and decay. Install vents at the top and bottom of the siding to allow air to circulate freely.

Preservative Treatment

Treat the wood with a preservative to protect it from rot, decay, and insects. There are many different types of preservatives available, so choose one that is appropriate for your climate and wood species. Consider using a borate-based preservative, which is effective against both fungi and insects and is relatively non-toxic.

Regular Inspection and Maintenance

Inspect the siding regularly for signs of warping, cracking, or decay. Repair any damage promptly to prevent it from spreading. Reapply preservative treatment as needed to maintain the wood’s protection.

A Case Study: Green Cedar Siding on a Remote Cabin

I once worked on a project building a small cabin in a remote area where transporting dry lumber was extremely difficult and expensive. We decided to use green Eastern White Cedar for the siding, as it was readily available locally.

Wood Selection: We carefully selected straight, knot-free logs and milled them into boards with a thickness of 1 inch.
Installation: We installed the boards with a 1.5-inch overlap and a 1/8-inch gap between them. We used stainless steel nails and treated the wood with a borate-based preservative.
Ventilation: We installed vents at the top and bottom of the siding to ensure proper ventilation.
Results: After five years, the siding has held up remarkably well. There has been some minor warping and shrinkage, but the overlap and spacing have prevented any significant gaps from forming. The preservative treatment has protected the wood from rot and decay.

This project demonstrates that green wood can be used successfully for siding, but it requires careful planning, proper techniques, and ongoing maintenance.

Drying Wood: A Deeper Dive

If you choose to use dry wood, you have two main options: kiln-dried or air-dried. Let’s take a closer look at each.

Kiln Drying

Kiln drying involves placing the lumber in a controlled environment where temperature, humidity, and airflow are carefully regulated. This allows the wood to dry quickly and evenly, reducing the risk of warping and cracking.

Advantages:
- Faster drying time
- More uniform drying
- Lower moisture content
- Kills insects and fungi
Disadvantages:
- More expensive
- Can stress the wood if not done properly

Air Drying

Air drying involves stacking the lumber in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally. This is a slower process than kiln drying, but it can result in a more stable and durable product.

Advantages:
- Less expensive
- Less stress on the wood
- Can result in a more stable product
Disadvantages:
- Slower drying time
- Less uniform drying
- Higher moisture content
- Does not kill insects and fungi

My Air Drying Method: The “Modified Rick Stack”

Over the years, I’ve refined my own air drying method, which I call the “Modified Rick Stack.” It combines elements of traditional rick stacking with modern ventilation principles.

Location: Choose a site that is well-drained, exposed to sunlight, and has good air circulation. Avoid areas that are prone to flooding or are shaded by trees.
Base: Create a solid base for the stack using concrete blocks or timbers. This will keep the lumber off the ground and prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Stacking: Stack the lumber in a rick formation, with each layer perpendicular to the layer below. Use stickers (thin strips of wood) between each layer to create air gaps. I use 1-inch thick stickers and place them every 2 feet.
Spacing: Leave a 2-3 inch gap between each board within a layer to allow for air circulation.
Ventilation: Place a fan at one end of the stack to increase airflow. This is especially important in humid climates. I use a high-velocity fan and run it for several hours each day.
Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the lumber from rain and sun. Leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.
Monitoring: Monitor the moisture content of the lumber regularly using a moisture meter. The target moisture content for siding is typically 12-19%.
Data: Using this method, I’ve consistently achieved a drying time of 6-12 months for 1-inch thick lumber in my region (Pacific Northwest), which is significantly faster than traditional air drying methods.

Tool Considerations: Chainsaws, Axes, and Log Splitters

Whether you’re felling trees, milling lumber, or preparing firewood, having the right tools is essential. Here are some of my recommendations:

Chainsaws

For Felling: A professional-grade chainsaw with a bar length of 20-24 inches is ideal for felling trees. I personally use a Stihl MS 462, which is powerful, reliable, and easy to handle.
For Bucking: A smaller chainsaw with a bar length of 16-18 inches is sufficient for bucking logs into shorter lengths. A Stihl MS 261 is a good choice for this task.
Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.

Axes

Felling Axe: A heavy axe with a long handle is used for felling trees. A Gransfors Bruks Felling Axe is a high-quality option.
Splitting Axe: A lighter axe with a wider head is used for splitting firewood. A Fiskars X27 Splitting Axe is a popular choice.
Hatchet: A small axe with a short handle is used for limbing and other small tasks. A Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet is a versatile option.

Log Splitters

Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a powerful and efficient tool for splitting large logs. I use a 25-ton hydraulic log splitter, which can handle logs up to 24 inches in diameter.
Manual Log Splitter: A manual log splitter is a less expensive option for splitting smaller logs. A Fiskars IsoCore Maul is a good choice.

Chainsaw Sharpening: A Skill Worth Mastering

A sharp chainsaw is a safe chainsaw. Learning to sharpen your own chainsaw is a valuable skill that will save you time and money. I recommend using a chainsaw sharpening kit, which includes a file, a depth gauge, and a filing guide. There are also many excellent online tutorials that can teach you the basics of chainsaw sharpening. I use the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File for quick touch-ups in the field.

Moisture Content: The Key to Success

As you can see, moisture content is a critical factor in wood processing. Here’s a quick guide to ideal moisture content levels for various applications:

Exterior Siding: 12-19%
Interior Trim: 6-12%
Furniture: 6-8%
Firewood: Below 20% (ideally below 15%)

Measuring Moisture Content

Use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your wood. There are two main types of moisture meters:

Pin Meters: These meters use two pins that are inserted into the wood to measure the electrical resistance, which is correlated to moisture content.
Pinless Meters: These meters use electromagnetic waves to measure the moisture content without penetrating the wood.

I prefer pinless meters for finished lumber, as they don’t leave any holes. For rough lumber, a pin meter is often more accurate.

Safety First: Logging and Wood Processing

Logging and wood processing can be dangerous activities. Always follow these safety precautions:

Wear appropriate safety gear: As mentioned earlier, always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves when operating a chainsaw.
Be aware of your surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of potential hazards, such as falling trees, slippery surfaces, and overhead power lines.
Use proper techniques: Use proper techniques for felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood.
Maintain your equipment: Keep your equipment in good working order and maintain it regularly.
Never work alone: Always work with a partner or let someone know where you are going and when you expect to be back.
Take breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can lead to accidents.
First Aid: Have a well-stocked first aid kit readily available and know how to use it.

Strategic Insights: Long-Term Planning

Beyond the immediate considerations of green versus dry wood, think about the long-term implications of your choices.

Local Availability: Consider the availability of different wood species and drying methods in your area. Sourcing locally can reduce transportation costs and support local businesses.
Sustainability: Choose wood from sustainable sources. Look for certifications such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) to ensure that the wood is harvested responsibly.
Budget: Develop a realistic budget that includes the cost of materials, tools, and labor. Don’t cut corners on safety or quality.
Skills: Assess your skills and experience and be realistic about what you can accomplish on your own. Don’t hesitate to hire a professional for tasks that are beyond your capabilities.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to start your board and batten pole barn siding project? Here are some practical next steps:

Determine your wood source: Will you be buying dry lumber, milling your own lumber, or using green lumber?
Choose your wood species: Consider the factors discussed earlier, such as stability, rot resistance, and availability.
Develop a detailed plan: Create a detailed plan that includes measurements, materials list, and a step-by-step installation guide.
Gather your tools and equipment: Make sure you have all the necessary tools and equipment before you start.
Start building: Follow your plan carefully and take your time. Don’t rush the process.
Regular Inspection: Inspect your siding regularly and perform any necessary maintenance.

Conclusion

Choosing between green and dry wood for your board and batten pole barn siding is a complex decision with significant implications. While dry wood is generally preferred for its stability, durability, and ease of installation, green wood can be a viable option if you’re on a tight budget or looking for a rustic aesthetic. By understanding the pros and cons of each option and following the techniques outlined in this guide, you can make an informed decision that will result in a beautiful and long-lasting structure. Remember to prioritize safety and sustainability in all your wood processing endeavors. Good luck!