Bigfoot Vs Skilsaw: Ultimate Woodcutting Showdown (5 Pro Tips)

Having spent over two decades felling trees and processing wood, I’ve learned a thing or two about getting the job done efficiently and safely. I even won the “Golden Axe” award at the regional logging competition back in ’08 – a testament to my woodcutting prowess, if I may say so myself. Now, let’s dive into the ultimate woodcutting showdown: Bigfoot vs. Skilsaw. While I haven’t actually pitted a mythical creature against a power tool, I have seen firsthand how different tools and techniques stack up when preparing firewood. I’ll share my pro tips to help you make the most of your woodcutting adventures.

Bigfoot vs. Skilsaw: Ultimate Woodcutting Showdown (5 Pro Tips)

This isn’t about a literal fight between a Sasquatch and a circular saw (though that would be a sight!). It’s about understanding the fundamental principles of woodcutting and choosing the right tools for the job, whether you’re tackling small branches or large logs. I will guide you through my top 5 pro tips that will transform your woodcutting process.

1. Understanding Wood: The Foundation of Efficient Cutting

Before I even think about starting an engine, I take a moment to assess the wood I’m dealing with. It’s not just about grabbing the first log you see. Understanding the type of wood, its moisture content, and grain structure is crucial for efficient and safe woodcutting.

Wood Types and Their Characteristics

Different wood species possess unique properties that affect how they cut and split. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory are denser and require more power to cut than softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce.

Oak: Known for its high density and durability. Oak is tough to split but burns long and hot. I usually prefer to let oak season for at least two years before burning.
Maple: A close second to oak in terms of density. Maple splits relatively easily and makes excellent firewood. I’ve found that maple dries faster than oak.
Hickory: Another dense hardwood, known for its high heat output. Hickory can be challenging to split, but the effort is worth it for the intense heat it provides. I always wear eye protection when splitting hickory; it tends to splinter.
Pine: A softwood that’s easy to cut and split. Pine dries quickly but burns fast and produces more smoke than hardwoods. I primarily use pine for kindling.
Fir: Similar to pine, fir is a softwood that’s easy to work with. Fir is a good option for shoulder-season fires.
Spruce: Another softwood that’s lightweight and easy to ignite. Spruce is often used for pulpwood and framing lumber.

Moisture Content: The Key to Seasoning

Freshly cut (“green”) wood contains a high percentage of moisture, making it difficult to burn efficiently. Seasoning, or drying, wood reduces its moisture content, improving its burn quality and heat output.

Green Wood: Can contain over 50% moisture content. It’s heavy, difficult to ignite, and produces a lot of smoke. I avoid burning green wood at all costs.
Seasoned Wood: Ideally has a moisture content of 20% or less. It’s lighter, easier to ignite, and burns cleaner. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of my firewood before burning it.

How to Season Wood:

Split the wood: Splitting increases the surface area exposed to air, accelerating the drying process. I usually split wood into pieces that are 6-8 inches in diameter.
Stack the wood: Stack the wood loosely in a single row, allowing air to circulate freely. I stack my firewood on pallets to keep it off the ground.
Elevate the wood: Elevating the wood off the ground prevents moisture from being absorbed from the soil. I use cinder blocks to elevate my firewood stacks.
Cover the wood: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. I leave the sides of the stack open to allow for air circulation.
Allow sufficient drying time: The drying time varies depending on the wood species and climate. Hardwoods typically take 6-12 months to season, while softwoods may take 3-6 months. I live in a humid climate, so my firewood takes longer to season.

I once made the mistake of burning green oak in my wood stove. The fire was sluggish, produced a ton of smoke, and left a thick layer of creosote in my chimney. It was a valuable lesson in the importance of seasoning firewood properly.

Grain Structure: Reading the Wood

Understanding the grain structure of wood can help you predict how it will split and cut. Straight-grained wood is generally easier to split than wood with knots or twisted grain. I always inspect the grain of a log before attempting to split it.

Straight Grain: Wood fibers run parallel to the length of the log. It splits easily and predictably.
Twisted Grain: Wood fibers spiral around the log. It’s difficult to split and can be unpredictable.
Knots: Where branches once grew. Knots make splitting more challenging and can cause the wood to break unevenly. I try to avoid splitting wood with a lot of knots.

Takeaway: Knowing your wood is half the battle. Understanding wood types, moisture content, and grain structure will significantly improve your woodcutting efficiency and safety.

2. Chainsaw Selection: Choosing the Right Tool for the Job

A chainsaw is an indispensable tool for anyone preparing firewood. However, not all chainsaws are created equal. Selecting the right chainsaw for the job is essential for safety and efficiency.

Chainsaw Types

Chainsaws come in various sizes and power levels, each suited for different tasks.

Light-Duty Chainsaws: Ideal for small jobs like pruning branches and cutting small logs. These chainsaws typically have a bar length of 12-14 inches and an engine displacement of 30-40 cc. I use a light-duty chainsaw for trimming branches around my property.
Medium-Duty Chainsaws: Suitable for felling small trees and cutting firewood. These chainsaws typically have a bar length of 16-18 inches and an engine displacement of 40-50 cc. I recommend a medium-duty chainsaw for most homeowners preparing firewood.
Heavy-Duty Chainsaws: Designed for felling large trees and cutting large logs. These chainsaws typically have a bar length of 20 inches or more and an engine displacement of 50 cc or more. I use a heavy-duty chainsaw for logging on my property.

Chainsaw Features

Consider these features when selecting a chainsaw:

Engine Displacement: Measured in cubic centimeters (cc), engine displacement indicates the power of the chainsaw. Higher engine displacement means more power. I always recommend choosing a chainsaw with enough power for the tasks you’ll be performing.
Bar Length: The length of the cutting bar determines the maximum diameter of the wood you can cut. Choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the size of the logs you’ll be cutting. I recommend a bar length that’s at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the largest logs you’ll be cutting.
Weight: Chainsaw weight can affect fatigue, especially during prolonged use. Choose a chainsaw that you can comfortably handle. I always wear a chainsaw harness to distribute the weight of the chainsaw.
Safety Features: Look for chainsaws with safety features like a chain brake, throttle lock, and anti-vibration system. I consider safety features to be non-negotiable when choosing a chainsaw.

Chainsaw Maintenance

Regular chainsaw maintenance is crucial for safe and efficient operation.

Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain cuts faster and more safely. I sharpen my chainsaw chain every few hours of use. I use a chainsaw file and a depth gauge to sharpen my chain.
Chain Lubrication: Keep the chain properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear. I check the chain oil level before each use. I use a high-quality chain oil that’s specifically designed for chainsaws.
Air Filter Cleaning: A clean air filter ensures proper engine performance. I clean my chainsaw’s air filter after each use. I use compressed air to clean the air filter.
Spark Plug Replacement: Replace the spark plug periodically to maintain optimal engine performance. I replace my chainsaw’s spark plug every year.

I remember one time when I neglected to sharpen my chainsaw chain. I was trying to cut through a large oak log, and the chainsaw kept bouncing and kicking back. It was a dangerous situation, and I quickly learned the importance of keeping my chain sharp.

Takeaway: Choosing the right chainsaw and maintaining it properly is essential for safe and efficient woodcutting. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be performing and select a chainsaw with the appropriate power, bar length, and safety features.

3. The Art of the Felling Cut: Precision and Safety

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning and execution. Before you even think about starting your chainsaw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings.

Pre-Felling Assessment

Tree Lean: Determine the direction the tree is leaning. This will influence the direction it will fall. I always try to fell trees in the direction of their natural lean.
Branch Distribution: Observe the distribution of branches. Uneven branch distribution can affect the tree’s balance and falling direction. I trim any branches that might interfere with the felling process.
Wind Conditions: Avoid felling trees in high winds. Wind can make the tree unpredictable and dangerous. I always check the weather forecast before felling trees.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the tree’s path, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees. I clear any obstacles that might interfere with the felling process.
Escape Routes: Plan your escape routes in advance. You should have two clear escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle from the direction of the fall. I always clear my escape routes before starting the felling process.

Felling Techniques

The Notch: The notch is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. I always make a precise notch to control the direction of the fall.
- Open Face Notch: A common type of notch that’s easy to make. The open face notch is suitable for most trees.
- Humboldt Notch: A more advanced type of notch that’s used for larger trees. The Humboldt notch provides more control over the direction of the fall.
The Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut that’s made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. I always leave a hinge of wood between the back cut and the notch to control the fall.
The Hinge: The hinge is the remaining wood between the back cut and the notch. The hinge controls the direction and speed of the fall. I always maintain a consistent hinge thickness to ensure a controlled fall.

Safety Precautions

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and steel-toed boots. I never fell a tree without wearing full PPE.
Communication: Communicate with anyone else who is in the area. Let them know what you’re doing and when you’re going to fell the tree. I always use hand signals to communicate with my logging crew.
Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance from the tree while it’s falling. The safe distance is at least twice the height of the tree. I always make sure that everyone is a safe distance away from the tree before I start the back cut.

I once witnessed a felling accident where a tree fell in the wrong direction and narrowly missed a worker. It was a stark reminder of the importance of following proper felling techniques and safety precautions.

Takeaway: Felling trees is a dangerous task that should only be undertaken by experienced individuals who have been properly trained. Always assess the tree and its surroundings, use proper felling techniques, and follow all safety precautions.

4. Splitting Strategies: From Manual to Mechanical

Splitting wood is an essential step in preparing firewood. Whether you prefer the traditional method of using an axe or the modern convenience of a log splitter, understanding the principles of splitting will make the job easier and safer.

Manual Splitting with an Axe

Axe Selection: Choose an axe that’s appropriate for the size of the wood you’ll be splitting. A splitting axe has a heavier head and a wider blade than a felling axe. I use a splitting axe with a 6-pound head for most of my splitting.
Stance: Position yourself with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Maintain a balanced stance to prevent injury. I always make sure that my stance is stable before swinging the axe.
Swing: Swing the axe smoothly and deliberately, using your entire body to generate power. Avoid jerky or uncontrolled movements. I focus on maintaining a consistent swing path.
Target: Aim for the center of the log or any existing cracks. Hitting the same spot repeatedly will eventually split the log. I try to aim for the weakest point in the log.
Safety: Always wear eye protection and gloves when splitting wood. Be aware of your surroundings and ensure that there are no people or objects in your swing path. I always clear the area around my splitting block before I start splitting.

Log Splitters: Hydraulic Power

Log splitters use hydraulic power to split wood quickly and efficiently.

Types of Log Splitters:
- Horizontal Log Splitters: The most common type of log splitter. The log is placed horizontally on the splitter, and a wedge pushes the log against a stationary plate. I find horizontal log splitters to be easy to use and maintain.
- Vertical Log Splitters: The log is placed vertically on the splitter, and a wedge pushes down on the log. Vertical log splitters are better suited for splitting larger, heavier logs. I use a vertical log splitter for splitting large oak logs.
Tonnage: Log splitters are rated by the amount of force they can exert, measured in tons. Choose a log splitter with enough tonnage for the size and type of wood you’ll be splitting. I recommend a log splitter with at least 20 tons of force for splitting hardwoods.
Safety: Always wear eye protection and gloves when operating a log splitter. Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting area. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. I always read the safety manual before operating a log splitter.

I remember the first time I used a log splitter. I was amazed at how quickly and easily it split even the most stubborn logs. It saved me a lot of time and effort compared to splitting wood manually.

The Wedge and Sledgehammer Method

For those extra-tough pieces that neither the axe nor the log splitter can handle, the wedge and sledgehammer come into play.

Wedge Selection: Use a steel splitting wedge with a wide, tapered head. I prefer a wedge with a textured surface to prevent it from slipping.
Placement: Position the wedge in a crack or along the grain of the wood. I try to find a natural weak point in the log.
Hammering: Strike the wedge with a sledgehammer, driving it into the wood. Use steady, controlled blows. I always wear hearing protection when using a sledgehammer.
Persistence: It may take several blows to split the log. Reposition the wedge as needed. I sometimes use multiple wedges to split particularly tough logs.

Takeaway: Splitting wood can be physically demanding, but using the right tools and techniques will make the job easier and safer. Consider your physical capabilities and the amount of wood you need to split when choosing between manual and mechanical methods.

5. Stacking and Storage: Protecting Your Investment

Proper stacking and storage are essential for seasoning firewood and protecting it from the elements. A well-stacked woodpile not only looks neat and organized but also promotes airflow, which is crucial for drying.

Stacking Techniques

Location: Choose a location that’s sunny, well-ventilated, and away from your house. Avoid stacking wood directly against your house, as this can attract insects and rodents. I stack my firewood in a sunny spot on the south side of my property.
Base: Create a stable base for your woodpile. Use pallets, cinder blocks, or scrap wood to elevate the wood off the ground. This will prevent moisture from being absorbed from the soil. I use pallets to create a base for my firewood stacks.
Stacking Pattern: Stack the wood in a crisscross pattern to promote airflow. Leave gaps between the rows to allow air to circulate freely. I use a traditional crisscross pattern to stack my firewood.
Stability: Ensure that the woodpile is stable and won’t collapse. Angle the ends of the stack inward to create a more stable structure. I always check the stability of my woodpile after stacking each row.

Storage Options

Open Stacks: The most common method of storing firewood. Open stacks allow for maximum airflow but are exposed to the elements. I use open stacks for most of my firewood.
Covered Stacks: Covering the top of the stack with a tarp or shed roof protects the wood from rain and snow. I cover the top of my firewood stacks with a tarp during the winter months.
Wood Sheds: A dedicated structure for storing firewood. Wood sheds provide excellent protection from the elements and can be aesthetically pleasing. I plan to build a wood shed on my property in the future.

Pest Control

Inspect the Wood: Before stacking, inspect the wood for signs of insects or disease. Remove any infested wood from the pile. I always inspect my firewood for signs of insects before stacking it.
Keep the Area Clean: Clear the area around the woodpile of debris and vegetation. This will reduce the risk of attracting pests. I keep the area around my firewood stacks clean and free of debris.
Consider Insecticides: If you have a persistent pest problem, consider using insecticides to protect your firewood. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. I only use insecticides as a last resort.

I once had a woodpile that became infested with termites. It was a costly mistake that taught me the importance of inspecting my firewood and keeping the area clean.

Takeaway: Proper stacking and storage are essential for seasoning firewood and protecting it from the elements. Choose a location that’s sunny and well-ventilated, create a stable base, and stack the wood in a pattern that promotes airflow.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Woodcutting

Woodcutting, whether for firewood or logging, is a skill honed over time with experience, knowledge, and a healthy respect for safety. From understanding the nuances of different wood types to mastering felling techniques and optimizing stacking strategies, each step contributes to a successful and efficient wood processing operation.

Remember those five pro tips:

Understand Your Wood: Know its type, moisture content, and grain.
Choose the Right Chainsaw: Match the tool to the task.
Master the Felling Cut: Precision and safety are paramount.
Strategize Your Splitting: Manual or mechanical, choose wisely.
Stack and Store Properly: Protect your investment.

By implementing these tips, you’ll not only improve your woodcutting skills but also enhance your safety and efficiency. So, whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior preparing firewood, remember to approach each task with knowledge, respect, and a commitment to safety. Happy woodcutting!

Bigfoot vs Skilsaw: Ultimate Woodcutting Showdown (5 Pro Tips)