Bench Chainsaw Sharpener Tips (3 Pro Grinder Tricks)

Sharpening your chainsaw chain is crucial for efficient and safe wood cutting. A dull chain not only slows down your work but also increases the risk of kickback and other accidents. While filing by hand is a traditional method, using a bench chainsaw sharpener – also known as a grinder – offers greater precision, consistency, and speed. In this guide, I’ll share three pro tricks I’ve learned over the years to get the most out of your bench grinder and achieve razor-sharp results every time. I’ll cover everything from setting up your grinder to fine-tuning your technique, ensuring you get the best possible performance from your chainsaw.

Why Bench Grinders are a Game Changer

Before diving into the tricks, let’s quickly discuss why bench grinders are so valuable. Hand filing, while useful in the field, can be inconsistent, especially for beginners. A bench grinder, when used correctly, ensures each tooth is sharpened to the same angle and depth, leading to a smoother cut, reduced vibration, and longer chain life. Moreover, it is much faster than filing, especially when dealing with a badly damaged chain. I remember one particularly tough job clearing storm damage after a hurricane; without a properly sharpened chain, the work would have been exponentially harder and more time-consuming. The consistent sharpness achieved with a bench grinder made all the difference.

Trick #1: Mastering the Grinder Setup

The foundation of a good sharpening job lies in the setup. If your grinder isn’t properly configured, no amount of skill will compensate. This is where many users go wrong, resulting in uneven sharpening and premature chain wear.

Setting the Correct Angles

The most critical aspect of setup is getting the angles right. Chainsaw chains have two primary angles: the top plate angle and the side plate angle. These angles are specified by the chain manufacturer and are crucial for optimal cutting performance.

Top Plate Angle: This is the angle of the top cutting edge relative to the chain’s travel direction. Typical angles range from 55 to 60 degrees.
Side Plate Angle: This is the angle of the side cutting edge relative to the depth gauge. Typical angles range from 0 to 10 degrees.

To find the correct angles for your chain, consult your chainsaw’s owner’s manual or the chain packaging. Once you know the angles, use the grinder’s adjustment knobs to set them accurately. Most grinders have scales to help you with this, but I recommend double-checking with a protractor or angle finder for maximum precision.

Case Study: I once worked with a logger who consistently struggled with his chains dulling quickly. After inspecting his sharpening setup, I discovered he was setting the top plate angle too shallow. This caused the teeth to wear down rapidly, as they weren’t biting into the wood effectively. By correcting the angle, we significantly extended the life of his chains and improved his cutting efficiency.

Adjusting the Depth Stop

The depth stop controls how much material is removed from each tooth. Setting it too high will result in a shallow grind, leaving the tooth dull. Setting it too low will remove too much material, shortening the life of the chain. I always start with a conservative setting and gradually increase it until I achieve the desired sharpness.

A good starting point is to set the depth stop so that the grinding wheel removes a minimal amount of material with each pass. After grinding a few teeth, inspect them closely. You should see a clean, even surface on the cutting edges. If not, adjust the depth stop accordingly.

Tool Specifications: For precise depth stop adjustments, I recommend using a digital caliper. This allows you to measure the amount of material being removed with accuracy.

Choosing the Right Grinding Wheel

The type of grinding wheel you use can significantly impact the quality of your sharpening job. There are two main types of wheels:

Aluminum Oxide Wheels: These are the most common type and are suitable for general-purpose sharpening.
CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) Wheels: These are more expensive but offer superior performance. They stay cooler, last longer, and produce a finer finish.

For most users, an aluminum oxide wheel will suffice. However, if you sharpen chains frequently or want the best possible results, a CBN wheel is worth the investment.

Data and Insights: In my experience, CBN wheels can last up to 10 times longer than aluminum oxide wheels. While the initial cost is higher, the long-term savings and improved sharpening quality make them a worthwhile upgrade. I’ve seen a noticeable difference in the smoothness and sharpness of chains sharpened with CBN wheels versus aluminum oxide wheels.

Securing the Chain

Properly securing the chain in the grinder’s vise is crucial for consistent sharpening. The chain should be held firmly in place, with no play or movement. Most grinders have a vise adjustment knob that allows you to tighten the chain securely.

I always make sure the chain is centered in the vise and that the teeth are aligned properly with the grinding wheel. This ensures that each tooth is sharpened to the same depth and angle.

Trick #2: Mastering the Grinding Technique

Once your grinder is properly set up, it’s time to focus on your grinding technique. This is where the real skill comes in. The goal is to sharpen each tooth consistently and efficiently, without overheating the chain or removing too much material.

Consistent Pressure and Speed

Applying consistent pressure and speed is essential for achieving a uniform grind. Avoid pressing too hard on the grinding wheel, as this can overheat the chain and damage the teeth. Instead, use a light, steady pressure and let the wheel do the work.

I recommend using a slow, controlled motion when grinding each tooth. This allows the wheel to remove material evenly and prevents overheating. It also gives you more control over the sharpening process, allowing you to make fine adjustments as needed.

Personalized Stories: I remember when I first started using a bench grinder, I was too aggressive with the pressure, resulting in burned teeth and inconsistent sharpening. It took some practice to develop the right touch, but eventually, I learned to let the grinder do the work and focus on maintaining a steady motion.

Counting Strokes

To ensure consistency, I count the number of strokes I make on each tooth. This helps me to remove the same amount of material from each tooth, resulting in a uniform grind.

I typically use two to three strokes per tooth, depending on the condition of the chain. For badly damaged teeth, I may need to use more strokes. However, I always try to use the same number of strokes on each tooth to maintain consistency.

Original Insights: I’ve found that counting strokes is particularly helpful when sharpening chains with different tooth lengths. By using the same number of strokes on each tooth, I can compensate for the differences in length and achieve a uniform grind.

Cooling the Chain

Overheating the chain is a common problem when using a bench grinder. Heat can damage the teeth and reduce their lifespan. To prevent overheating, I recommend cooling the chain frequently.

I keep a container of water nearby and dip the chain into it after sharpening a few teeth. This helps to dissipate the heat and prevent damage. You can also use compressed air to cool the chain.

Measurements: I aim to keep the chain temperature below 150°F (65°C). You can use a non-contact thermometer to monitor the temperature of the chain.

Addressing Damaged Teeth

Sometimes, you’ll encounter teeth that are badly damaged or broken. These teeth require special attention.

If a tooth is only slightly damaged, you can usually sharpen it using the same technique as the other teeth. However, if a tooth is severely damaged or broken, you may need to remove more material to restore its shape.

In some cases, it may be necessary to replace the entire chain if the damage is too extensive.

Original Case Studies: I once had a chain that had been used to cut through barbed wire. Several teeth were severely damaged, and I wasn’t sure if I could salvage the chain. However, by carefully grinding down the damaged teeth and reshaping them, I was able to restore the chain to a usable condition. While it wasn’t as sharp as a new chain, it was still good enough for light-duty work.

Trick #3: Fine-Tuning and Maintenance

Once you’ve sharpened the chain, there are a few final steps you can take to fine-tune your work and ensure optimal performance.

Checking the Depth Gauges

The depth gauges, also known as rakers, control the amount of wood the chain can cut. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will cut slowly. If they are too low, the chain will be aggressive and prone to kickback.

After sharpening the chain, I always check the depth gauges and file them down as needed. The correct depth gauge setting depends on the type of wood you’re cutting. For softwood, you can use a lower setting. For hardwood, you’ll need a higher setting.

Tool Specifications: I use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. This tool has a series of slots that correspond to different depth gauge settings.

Deburring the Chain

After sharpening, the chain may have small burrs on the cutting edges. These burrs can reduce the chain’s cutting performance and increase the risk of snagging.

I use a fine-grit file or a deburring tool to remove these burrs. This helps to create a smooth, clean cutting edge.

Strategic Advantages: Deburring the chain is a simple but effective way to improve its cutting performance. It only takes a few minutes, but it can make a noticeable difference in the smoothness and efficiency of your cuts.

Balancing the Chain

Over time, chainsaw chains can become unbalanced due to uneven wear. This can cause the chain to vibrate excessively and reduce its cutting performance.

To balance the chain, I use a chain breaker and a chain spinner. The chain breaker allows me to remove individual links from the chain. The chain spinner allows me to rotate the chain and identify any imbalances.

By removing links from the heavier side of the chain, I can restore its balance and improve its performance.

Grinder Maintenance

Maintaining your bench grinder is essential for ensuring its accuracy and longevity.

I regularly clean the grinder to remove dust and debris. I also lubricate the moving parts to keep them running smoothly.

I also check the grinding wheel for wear and replace it as needed. A worn grinding wheel can produce inconsistent results and damage the chain.

Costs: A new grinding wheel typically costs between \$20 and \$50, depending on the type and size. Replacing the wheel regularly is a small price to pay for maintaining the accuracy and performance of your grinder.

Additional Tips and Considerations

Wood Type Selection

The type of wood you’re cutting can affect the sharpness and longevity of your chainsaw chain. Hardwoods, such as oak and maple, are more abrasive than softwoods, such as pine and fir.

When cutting hardwoods, I recommend using a chain with a more durable cutting edge. I also sharpen the chain more frequently to maintain its sharpness.

Relevant Statistics: Studies have shown that chains used to cut hardwoods dull up to twice as fast as chains used to cut softwoods.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Green wood, also known as fresh-cut wood, has a high moisture content. Seasoned wood has been dried to reduce its moisture content.

Cutting green wood can be more challenging than cutting seasoned wood. Green wood is often denser and more fibrous, which can make it harder to cut.

When cutting green wood, I recommend using a chain with a more aggressive cutting angle. I also sharpen the chain more frequently to maintain its sharpness.

Key Terms and Concepts: The moisture content of green wood can range from 30% to 100%, depending on the species. The moisture content of seasoned wood is typically below 20%.

Felling Techniques

Proper felling techniques can help to reduce the risk of kickback and other accidents.

Before felling a tree, I always inspect it for hazards, such as dead branches or power lines. I also plan my escape route and clear the area around the tree.

When felling the tree, I use a combination of notching and back-cutting techniques. This helps to control the direction of the fall and prevent the tree from barber chairing.

Complex Processes: Barber chairing occurs when the tree splits vertically during felling, creating a dangerous situation.

Debarking Logs

Debarking logs can help to prevent insect infestations and improve the drying rate of the wood.

There are several methods for debarking logs, including using a drawknife, a spud, or a mechanical debarker.

I prefer to use a drawknife for small-scale debarking projects. A drawknife is a hand tool with a curved blade that is used to peel the bark off the log.

Clear, Actionable Steps: To use a drawknife, hold the tool with both hands and pull it towards you, peeling the bark off the log in strips.

Splitting Firewood

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task. However, with the right tools and techniques, it can be made easier and safer.

I use a combination of axes, mauls, and hydraulic splitters to split firewood. An axe is used for splitting small logs. A maul is used for splitting larger logs. A hydraulic splitter is used for splitting tough or knotty logs.

Benefits and Strategic Advantages: Using a hydraulic splitter can significantly increase your efficiency when splitting firewood, especially if you’re dealing with large volumes of wood.

Firewood Stacking

Proper firewood stacking is essential for ensuring that the wood dries properly.

I stack firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation. This helps to evaporate the moisture from the wood and prevent it from rotting.

I also cover the top of the firewood stack to protect it from rain and snow.

Concrete Examples: I typically stack firewood in rows, with gaps between each row to allow for air circulation. I also elevate the firewood stack off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.

Safety Considerations

Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and other wood processing tools.

I always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

I also inspect my chainsaw and other tools before each use to ensure that they are in good working condition.

I never operate a chainsaw or other tool when I am tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Current Tools, Materials, Techniques, and Safety Standards: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain instantly if it comes into contact with your legs. They are an essential piece of PPE for anyone operating a chainsaw.

Conclusion and Next Steps

Mastering the art of bench chainsaw sharpening is a rewarding endeavor that will save you time, money, and frustration. By following these three pro grinder tricks – mastering the setup, perfecting your grinding technique, and fine-tuning your work – you’ll be able to keep your chainsaw chain razor-sharp and your wood cutting efficient.

Now it’s time to put these tips into practice. Start by setting up your bench grinder according to the manufacturer’s instructions and the specific angles for your chainsaw chain. Practice your grinding technique on a scrap chain until you feel comfortable and confident. And remember, safety always comes first. Wear appropriate PPE and take your time to avoid accidents.

With a little practice and patience, you’ll be able to sharpen your chainsaw chain like a pro and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done. Happy cutting!