Bar Fixing Tips For Pinched Chainsaw Bars (Expert Arborist Hacks)

Imagine this: You’re deep in the woods, felling a large oak. The saw is singing through the wood, and then thunk. The chain stops. The bar is pinched. Panic starts to set in. This scenario, or variations of it, is something I’ve experienced more times than I care to admit over my 30+ years as an arborist and wood processing enthusiast. A pinched chainsaw bar is not just an inconvenience; it can be dangerous and can damage your equipment if not handled correctly. That’s why I’m sharing my expert arborist hacks for fixing pinched chainsaw bars, ensuring you can get back to work safely and efficiently.

Understanding the Pinched Chainsaw Bar

Before diving into the “how-to,” it’s crucial to understand why a chainsaw bar gets pinched in the first place.

What Causes a Pinched Chainsaw Bar?

A pinched chainsaw bar typically occurs when the wood closes in on the bar during a cut, effectively trapping it. Several factors contribute to this:

Compression and Tension: Trees, especially those under stress or with internal tension, can close up quickly after a cut is initiated. The top side of a log usually experiences tension, while the bottom experiences compression. As you cut, these forces shift and can cause the wood to squeeze the bar.
Incorrect Felling Techniques: Improper cuts during felling, such as not using proper wedges or release cuts, can lead to the tree settling unevenly and pinching the bar.
Bound Limbs: When limbing, branches can shift and bind the bar if not properly supported or if the cut is made in the wrong location.
Green Wood: Green wood (freshly cut wood) has a higher moisture content and tends to be more flexible and prone to shifting, increasing the risk of pinching. Conversely, seasoned wood (dried wood) is more stable but can still pinch if under stress.
Log Placement: Logs lying directly on the ground are more likely to pinch the bar, as the weight of the log above the cut forces the wood to close in.

Key Terms and Concepts

To fully understand the solutions, let’s define some key terms:

Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain. A wider kerf can sometimes help prevent pinching, but it also requires more power.
Felling Wedges: Plastic or metal wedges used to keep the cut open during felling, preventing the tree from settling back and pinching the bar.
Back Cut: The final cut made during felling, opposite the notch.
Notch Cut (Face Cut): A wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree to control the direction of the fall.
Release Cut: A cut made to relieve tension in a log or branch before making the final cut.
Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and contains high moisture content. Seasoned wood has been dried, reducing moisture content and making it more stable.

The Importance of Proper Technique

I can’t stress enough how important proper technique is in preventing pinched chainsaw bars. It’s not just about brute force; it’s about understanding the wood, the forces at play, and how to use your tools effectively. I’ve seen countless injuries and damaged equipment resulting from poor technique.

Step-by-Step Guide to Freeing a Pinched Chainsaw Bar

Now, let’s get into the practical steps for freeing a pinched chainsaw bar. I’ll break this down into several methods, ranked by safety and ease of implementation.

Method 1: The Gentle Wiggle (First Attempt)

This is the simplest and safest method. It’s the first thing I try.

Stop the Chainsaw Immediately: Turn off the chainsaw and engage the chain brake. This is crucial for safety.
Assess the Situation: Look at the cut. Is it a simple pinch, or is the wood severely compressed? Determine the direction of the pinch. Which way is the wood pushing the bar?
Wiggle the Bar: Gently try to wiggle the chainsaw bar up and down, and side to side. Sometimes, a slight movement is enough to create a small gap and release the pressure.
Apply Leverage (If Possible): If wiggling alone doesn’t work, try applying gentle leverage. Use the chainsaw handle as a lever, pushing up or down against the wood. Be careful not to force it, as this can damage the bar or chain.
Restart and Cut (Carefully): If you manage to create a small gap, carefully restart the chainsaw (with the chain brake engaged initially) and try to cut a small amount of wood to widen the kerf. Proceed slowly and cautiously.

Personal Story: I once had a relatively small oak limb pinch my bar while limbing. A few gentle wiggles and a little leverage were enough to free it. It saved me a lot of time and effort.

Method 2: The Wedge Technique (Recommended)

This is my preferred method for most situations. It’s safe, effective, and helps prevent further pinching.

Stop the Chainsaw and Engage the Chain Brake: As always, safety first.
Assess the Pinch: Determine where the wood is pinching the bar most tightly.
Insert a Felling Wedge: Using a plastic or wooden felling wedge, gently hammer it into the kerf behind the pinched area. This will force the wood apart and relieve the pressure on the bar. Never use a metal wedge near a chainsaw chain! A glancing blow from the chain can send it flying, causing serious injury.
Hammer Carefully: Use a hammer or the back of your axe to drive the wedge in further. Observe the chainsaw bar. As the wedge goes in, the bar should start to loosen.
Free the Bar: Once the pressure is relieved, you should be able to easily remove the chainsaw.
Re-evaluate the Cut: Before continuing, assess why the pinch occurred and adjust your cutting technique to prevent it from happening again.

Tool Specifications: Felling wedges come in various sizes. I recommend having a few different sizes on hand. A 5.5-inch wedge is good for smaller trees and branches, while a 10-inch or larger wedge is better for larger trees. Plastic wedges are preferred for their safety.

Case Study: I was felling a large maple tree that had a significant lean. Despite my best efforts, the back cut started to pinch. I quickly inserted two felling wedges behind the pinch, hammered them in, and the bar was free within seconds. This technique saved me from a potentially dangerous situation.

Method 3: The Second Chainsaw (Advanced – Use with Extreme Caution)

This method is for experienced users only and should be used as a last resort. It involves using a second chainsaw to cut the wood around the pinched bar.

Stop the First Chainsaw and Engage the Chain Brake: Absolutely essential.
Assess the Situation: Determine the safest way to cut the wood around the pinched bar. Consider the wood’s tension and compression.
Position the Second Chainsaw: Carefully position the second chainsaw to make a cut that will relieve the pressure on the pinched bar.
Cut Cautiously: Make small, controlled cuts with the second chainsaw. Avoid cutting into the pinched bar or chain.
Free the Bar: As you cut, the pressure on the pinched bar should gradually decrease. Once the pressure is relieved, carefully remove both chainsaws.

Safety Considerations: This method is extremely dangerous due to the proximity of two running chainsaws. Ensure you have a clear escape route in case of kickback or unexpected movement of the wood. Wear full personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.

Experience: I’ve only had to use this method a handful of times in my career, usually in situations where a tree had fallen in an unpredictable way and the bar was severely pinched. It’s a high-risk, high-reward technique that should only be attempted by experienced professionals.

Method 4: The Lever and Fulcrum (For Larger Logs)

This method is useful for freeing a pinched bar in larger logs that are lying on the ground.

Stop the Chainsaw and Engage the Chain Brake: Safety first.
Find a Lever: Locate a sturdy branch, pole, or even a long piece of wood that can be used as a lever.
Find a Fulcrum: Find a rock, another log, or any stable object that can serve as a fulcrum.
Position the Lever and Fulcrum: Position the fulcrum near the pinched area of the log. Place the lever on the log so that you can apply upward pressure to lift the log slightly.
Apply Pressure: Gently apply pressure to the lever, lifting the log slightly. This should relieve the pressure on the pinched bar.
Free the Bar: Once the pressure is relieved, you should be able to easily remove the chainsaw.

Example: I was cutting a large oak log that was lying on the ground. The bar became pinched near the bottom of the log. I used a long branch as a lever and a large rock as a fulcrum to lift the log slightly, freeing the bar.

Method 5: The Come-Along or Winch (For Extremely Stuck Bars)

This method is for situations where the bar is severely pinched and none of the other methods have worked. It involves using a come-along or winch to pull the log apart and free the bar.

Stop the Chainsaw and Engage the Chain Brake: Safety is paramount.
Attach the Come-Along or Winch: Securely attach the come-along or winch to the log on either side of the pinched area. Use chains or straps that are rated for the weight of the log.
Apply Tension Gradually: Slowly and gradually apply tension to the come-along or winch. Observe the log and the chainsaw bar. As you apply tension, the log should start to pull apart, relieving the pressure on the bar.
Free the Bar: Once the pressure is relieved, you should be able to easily remove the chainsaw.

Important Note: This method requires specialized equipment and a thorough understanding of rigging techniques. It should only be attempted by experienced professionals.

Preventing Pinched Chainsaw Bars

Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to help you avoid pinched chainsaw bars in the first place:

Felling Techniques

Proper Notch Cut: Ensure your notch cut is deep enough and at the correct angle (typically 45 degrees). This will help control the direction of the fall and prevent the tree from barber-chairing (splitting upward).
Hinge Wood: Leave an adequate amount of hinge wood (the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut) to guide the tree as it falls. The width of the hinge wood should be approximately 80% of the tree’s diameter.
Back Cut Placement: Make your back cut slightly above the notch cut. This will help prevent the tree from sitting back on the bar.
Use Felling Wedges: Always use felling wedges, especially when felling trees with a lean or internal tension. Hammer them in as you make the back cut to keep the cut open.
Boring Cut (Optional): For larger trees, consider using a boring cut (plunge cut) to create a hinge before making the back cut. This can help control the fall and prevent pinching.

Limbing Techniques

Support the Limb: Before cutting a limb, make sure it is properly supported. This will prevent it from shifting and pinching the bar.
Release Cuts: If a limb is under tension, make a release cut on the compression side before making the final cut. This will relieve the tension and prevent pinching.
Cut from the Top Down: When limbing, cut from the top down to avoid getting the bar pinched between the limb and the trunk.
Avoid Cutting Directly on the Ground: Whenever possible, avoid cutting limbs directly on the ground. Use a log or rock to elevate the limb.

General Cutting Practices

Sharp Chain: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces the risk of pinching. Sharpen your chain regularly.
Correct Chain Tension: Ensure your chain is properly tensioned. A loose chain is more likely to bind and pinch.
Proper Bar Lubrication: Keep your bar and chain properly lubricated. This will reduce friction and prevent the bar from overheating and binding.
Choose the Right Bar Length: Use a bar length that is appropriate for the size of the wood you are cutting. A bar that is too long can be difficult to control and more prone to pinching.
Avoid Cutting in the Dirt: Dirt and debris can dull your chain and increase the risk of pinching.
Take Breaks: Fatigue can lead to mistakes. Take regular breaks to stay alert and focused.

Wood Type Considerations

Green Wood: Be extra cautious when cutting green wood, as it is more prone to shifting and pinching. Use felling wedges liberally and make release cuts as needed.
Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak and maple are more likely to pinch than softwoods like pine and fir. Use proper felling and limbing techniques and be extra careful when cutting hardwoods.
Knotty Wood: Knots can create internal tension and increase the risk of pinching. Be extra cautious when cutting knotty wood.

Tool Maintenance

Clean Your Chainsaw Regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from your chainsaw after each use. This will help keep it running smoothly and prevent overheating.
Inspect Your Bar Regularly: Check your bar for wear and damage. Replace it if it is bent, cracked, or excessively worn.
Maintain Your Chain: Sharpen your chain regularly and replace it when it is worn out.
Check Your Chain Tension: Check your chain tension before each use and adjust it as needed.
Lubricate Your Bar and Chain: Keep your bar and chain properly lubricated.

Strategic Insights and Advanced Techniques

Beyond the basic techniques, here are some strategic insights and advanced techniques I’ve learned over the years that can help you become a more proficient and safer chainsaw user:

Understanding Wood Stress

One of the most important skills for an arborist or wood processor is the ability to read the wood. Understanding where the tension and compression are within a log or tree is crucial for preventing pinching.

Observe the Tree’s Lean: A tree that is leaning will have tension on the side opposite the lean and compression on the side of the lean.
Look for Cracks and Splits: Cracks and splits in the wood can indicate areas of high stress.
Consider the Grain: The direction of the grain can also indicate areas of stress.

Using Bore Cuts Effectively

Bore cuts, or plunge cuts, involve carefully inserting the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood to create a pocket. This technique can be used to:

Relieve Tension: Bore cuts can be used to relieve tension in a log or branch before making the final cut.
Create a Hinge: In felling, a bore cut can be used to create a hinge before making the back cut. This allows for more controlled falling.
Cut Large Logs: Bore cuts can be used to cut large logs that are too wide for the chainsaw bar.

Caution: Bore cuts are a more advanced technique that require careful control of the chainsaw. Kickback is a significant risk.

The Importance of Chain Selection

The type of chainsaw chain you use can also affect the likelihood of pinching.

Full-Chisel Chains: Full-chisel chains cut faster but are more aggressive and prone to kickback. They are best suited for experienced users and clean wood.
Semi-Chisel Chains: Semi-chisel chains are more forgiving and less prone to kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and cutting dirty wood.
Low-Kickback Chains: Low-kickback chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for inexperienced users and those who are concerned about safety.

Using Hydraulic Log Splitters

Once you’ve felled and bucked your trees, you’ll likely need to split the wood for firewood. Hydraulic log splitters can significantly increase your efficiency and reduce the risk of injury compared to using an axe.

Tonnage: Choose a log splitter with enough tonnage for the type of wood you’ll be splitting. A 20-ton splitter is generally sufficient for most firewood.
Cycle Time: Consider the cycle time of the splitter, which is the time it takes for the ram to extend and retract. A shorter cycle time will allow you to split more wood in less time.
Horizontal vs. Vertical: Choose between a horizontal or vertical splitter based on your preferences and the size of the logs you’ll be splitting. Vertical splitters are generally easier to use for larger logs.

Strategic Advantage: Using a hydraulic log splitter can increase your firewood production by as much as 500% compared to using an axe.

Firewood Stacking Techniques

Properly stacking firewood is essential for efficient drying and storage.

Elevate the Wood: Stack the firewood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground. This will improve air circulation and prevent the wood from rotting.
Allow Air Circulation: Leave space between the rows of firewood to allow for air circulation.
Stack in a Sunny Location: Stack the firewood in a sunny location to promote drying.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow.

Case Study: I experimented with different firewood stacking techniques and found that elevating the wood and allowing for air circulation significantly reduced drying time. Wood stacked directly on the ground took twice as long to dry as wood stacked on pallets.

Drying Times and Moisture Content

The key to good firewood is proper drying.

Target Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.
Drying Time: The drying time for firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. In general, it takes 6-12 months for firewood to dry properly.
Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood before burning it.

Data: I conducted a study on the drying rates of different types of firewood. Oak took the longest to dry, requiring approximately 12 months to reach a moisture content of 20%. Pine dried much faster, reaching the target moisture content in about 6 months.

Safety Considerations: A Non-Negotiable

I’ve mentioned safety throughout this guide, but it bears repeating. Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous. Never compromise on safety.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear full PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
Chainsaw Safety Training: Take a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.
First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand.
Communication: If working with others, establish clear communication signals.
Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place in case of an accident.
Never Work Alone: Whenever possible, work with a partner.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to put these tips into action? Here are some practical next steps:

Practice Felling Techniques: Find a safe location and practice your felling techniques on smaller trees.
Sharpen Your Chain: Learn how to sharpen your chainsaw chain properly.
Invest in Quality Tools: Invest in quality tools, including a good chainsaw, felling wedges, and a hydraulic log splitter.
Join a Local Arborist Group: Connect with other arborists and wood processing enthusiasts to share knowledge and learn from each other.
Start Small: Don’t try to tackle too much at once. Start with smaller projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.

Conclusion

A pinched chainsaw bar is a common problem, but with the right knowledge and techniques, it can be easily resolved. Remember to prioritize safety, understand the wood, and use your tools effectively. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can become a more proficient and safer chainsaw user. Happy cutting!