Bar and Chain for Husqvarna 55 (5 Expert Tips You Need)

Ever found yourself wrestling with a Husqvarna 55 chainsaw, feeling like you’re fighting the wood instead of smoothly slicing through it? I’ve been there. After years of felling trees and bucking logs, I’ve learned that the bar and chain are the unsung heroes of any chainsaw operation. The Husqvarna 55 is a workhorse, but it’s only as good as the cutting equipment you equip it with. Getting the right bar and chain, and knowing how to maintain them, can transform your chainsaw experience. I’m going to share five crucial tips that will keep your Husqvarna 55 running efficiently and safely.

Understanding Your Husqvarna 55: Bar and Chain Basics

Before diving into the tips, let’s make sure we’re all on the same page. The bar is the metal guide that supports the chain, and the chain is what does the actual cutting. The Husqvarna 55, a favorite among homeowners and professionals alike, is versatile enough to handle various tasks, from limbing to felling smaller trees. However, the bar and chain you choose will dictate its performance in different scenarios.

Bar Length: Matching the Task

The bar length determines the size of the wood you can safely cut. The Husqvarna 55 can typically handle bars ranging from 13 to 20 inches.

• Shorter Bars (13-16 inches): Ideal for limbing, pruning, and smaller firewood projects. They offer better maneuverability and are lighter, reducing fatigue.
• Longer Bars (18-20 inches): Suitable for felling larger trees and bucking thicker logs. They require more experience and caution.

When selecting a bar length, always consider the diameter of the wood you’ll be cutting most frequently. As a general rule, the bar should be at least two inches longer than the thickest wood you plan to cut. This ensures that the chain can fully engage the wood and prevent kickback.

Chain Types: Choosing the Right Cutter

Chains come in various types, each designed for specific cutting performance. The most common types are:

• Full Chisel: These chains have aggressive cutters with square corners, providing the fastest cutting speed. However, they are more prone to kickback and require more frequent sharpening. I usually recommend these for experienced users who are cutting clean wood.
• Semi-Chisel: A good compromise between cutting speed and durability. The cutters have rounded corners, making them more forgiving and less prone to dulling in dirty or frozen wood. These are my go-to for general-purpose use.
• Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): Designed for safety and ease of use. They have rounded cutters with a smaller kerf (the width of the cut), reducing kickback and vibration. These are perfect for beginners or occasional users.

The chain pitch (the distance between the chain rivets) and gauge (the thickness of the drive links) must match the bar and sprocket of your Husqvarna 55. The most common pitch for this saw is .325″, and the gauge is .050″. Always double-check these specifications before purchasing a new chain.

Expert Tip #1: Mastering Chain Sharpening

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It puts more strain on the saw, increases the risk of kickback, and produces sawdust instead of chips. Sharpening your chain regularly is crucial for maintaining peak performance and safety.

The Importance of Sharpness

A sharp chain cuts smoothly and effortlessly, producing large, uniform chips. A dull chain, on the other hand, requires more force to cut, resulting in fine sawdust and increased vibration. This not only slows down your work but also increases the risk of fatigue and injury.

• Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back, reducing the risk of accidents.
• Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and with less effort, saving you time and energy.
• Saw Health: A sharp chain reduces strain on the saw’s engine and components, prolonging its lifespan.

Sharpening Techniques

There are two main methods for sharpening chainsaw chains:

1. Hand Sharpening: Using a round file and a file guide. This method is portable and allows you to sharpen the chain on the job. I prefer this method for quick touch-ups in the field.
2. Electric Sharpeners: These provide more precise and consistent sharpening, especially for those who are new to chainsaw maintenance. However, they require a power source and are less portable.

Hand Sharpening Steps:

1. Secure the Saw: Place the chainsaw in a vise or clamp it securely to a stump.
2. Identify the Correct File Size: Use a round file that matches the chain’s pitch. For a .325″ pitch chain, a 5/32″ file is typically used.
3. Use a File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct angle and depth while sharpening.
4. Sharpen Each Cutter: Place the file in the cutter and push it forward at the correct angle, following the contour of the cutter. Use smooth, even strokes.
5. Maintain Consistency: Sharpen each cutter to the same length and angle.
6. Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges (the small metal tabs in front of each cutter) are at the correct height. File them down if necessary.

Electric Sharpening Steps:

1. Mount the Chain: Place the chain in the electric sharpener, ensuring it is securely clamped.
2. Set the Angle and Depth: Adjust the sharpener to the correct angle and depth for your chain type.
3. Sharpen Each Cutter: Lower the grinding wheel onto each cutter, using light pressure and short bursts.
4. Maintain Consistency: Sharpen each cutter to the same length and angle.
5. Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges are at the correct height. File them down if necessary.

Pro Tip: I always keep a small sharpening kit with me in the field. It includes a round file, a file guide, a depth gauge tool, and a flat file for adjusting the depth gauges. This allows me to quickly touch up the chain whenever it starts to dull, ensuring I’m always working with a sharp and efficient saw.

Expert Tip #2: Lubrication is Key

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your bar and chain. The chain moves at high speeds, generating a lot of friction. Without adequate lubrication, the bar and chain will overheat, causing premature wear and potential failure.

Understanding Bar and Chain Oil

Bar and chain oil is specially formulated to provide the necessary lubrication for chainsaw cutting equipment. It has a high viscosity to cling to the chain and bar, even at high speeds. It also contains additives to reduce friction, prevent rust, and resist sling-off.

• Viscosity: Choose an oil with a viscosity appropriate for the ambient temperature. In colder weather, use a lighter oil to ensure it flows freely. In warmer weather, use a heavier oil to prevent it from thinning out too much.
• Additives: Look for oils that contain anti-wear additives, rust inhibitors, and tackifiers. These additives will help protect your bar and chain from damage and prolong their lifespan.
• Biodegradable Options: Consider using biodegradable bar and chain oil, especially if you’re working in environmentally sensitive areas. These oils are less harmful to the environment if they spill or leak.

Maintaining Proper Lubrication

• Check the Oil Level: Before each use, check the oil reservoir and fill it as needed. A good rule of thumb is to refill the oil reservoir every time you refill the fuel tank.
• Adjust the Oil Flow: Most chainsaws have an adjustable oiler. Adjust the oil flow to match the cutting conditions. In harder wood or warmer weather, increase the oil flow. In softer wood or colder weather, decrease the oil flow.
• Inspect the Oiler: Regularly inspect the oiler to ensure it is working properly. Check for clogs or leaks. Clean or replace the oiler as needed.
• Use the Right Oil: Always use bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Do not use motor oil or other types of oil, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the bar and chain.

Personal Experience: I once made the mistake of using motor oil in my chainsaw because I ran out of bar and chain oil. The chain quickly overheated, and the bar became scored and damaged. I learned my lesson the hard way – always use the right oil!

Signs of Insufficient Lubrication

• Smoke: Excessive smoke coming from the bar and chain is a sign that they are overheating due to insufficient lubrication.
• Blueing: A bluish discoloration on the bar or chain indicates that they have been overheated.
• Premature Wear: Excessive wear on the bar rails or chain cutters is a sign of inadequate lubrication.
• Sticking Chain: If the chain sticks or binds in the cut, it may be due to insufficient lubrication.

If you notice any of these signs, stop cutting immediately and check the oil level and oiler. Adjust the oil flow or clean the oiler as needed. Replace the bar and chain if they are damaged.

Expert Tip #3: Proper Chain Tensioning

Maintaining the correct chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient operation. A chain that is too loose can derail, causing damage to the saw and potentially injuring the operator. A chain that is too tight can overheat, causing premature wear and potential failure.

Checking Chain Tension

• Cold Check: Before starting the saw, check the chain tension by pulling the chain away from the bar at the midpoint. You should be able to pull the chain out about 1/8 inch.
• Hot Check: After running the saw for a few minutes, check the chain tension again. The chain will expand as it heats up. It should still be snug against the bar, but you should be able to move it freely by hand.

Adjusting Chain Tension

1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use a wrench to loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar in place.
2. Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Locate the chain tensioning screw, usually located on the side of the saw near the bar. Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
3. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is at the correct tension, tighten the bar nuts securely.
4. Recheck the Tension: After tightening the bar nuts, recheck the chain tension to ensure it is still correct.

Important Note: Always adjust the chain tension with the saw turned off and the chain brake engaged.

Common Mistakes

• Overtightening the Chain: Overtightening the chain can cause excessive wear on the bar, chain, and sprocket. It can also cause the chain to break.
• Undertightening the Chain: Undertightening the chain can cause it to derail, which can be dangerous. It can also cause the chain to slap against the bar, damaging both.

Personal Anecdote: I once saw a logger who consistently overtightened his chain. He went through bars and chains at an alarming rate. After explaining the importance of proper tensioning, he started getting much better life out of his equipment.

Expert Tip #4: Regular Bar Maintenance

The bar is the backbone of the cutting system, and it needs regular maintenance to ensure it performs optimally. Neglecting the bar can lead to premature wear, reduced cutting efficiency, and even safety hazards.

Bar Rail Inspection

• Check for Wear: Inspect the bar rails regularly for wear. If the rails are uneven or have grooves, the bar needs to be dressed.
• Check for Burrs: Remove any burrs from the bar rails using a flat file. Burrs can cause the chain to bind and increase the risk of kickback.
• Check for Damage: Inspect the bar for any cracks, bends, or other damage. If the bar is damaged, it should be replaced.

Bar Dressing

Bar dressing involves filing the bar rails to remove wear and restore their square edges. This helps ensure that the chain runs smoothly and evenly.

1. Secure the Bar: Place the bar in a vise or clamp it securely to a workbench.
2. Use a Flat File: Use a flat file to file the bar rails, keeping the file flat against the rail.
3. Maintain a Square Edge: File the rails until they are square and even.
4. Remove Burrs: Remove any burrs from the edges of the rails.

Bar Groove Cleaning

The bar groove, the channel that the chain drive links run in, can become clogged with sawdust and debris. This can restrict the flow of oil and cause the chain to bind.

• Use a Bar Groove Cleaner: Use a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver to clean the bar groove regularly.
• Remove Sawdust and Debris: Remove all sawdust and debris from the groove.
• Check for Damage: Inspect the groove for any damage. If the groove is damaged, the bar should be replaced.

Flipping the Bar

Flipping the bar periodically helps to distribute wear evenly. This can extend the life of the bar.

• Remove the Bar: Remove the bar from the chainsaw.
• Flip the Bar: Turn the bar over so that the top becomes the bottom.
• Reinstall the Bar: Reinstall the bar on the chainsaw.

Statistics: Studies have shown that regular bar maintenance, including bar dressing and groove cleaning, can extend the life of the bar by up to 50%.

Expert Tip #5: Understanding Wood Types and Cutting Techniques

The type of wood you’re cutting and the techniques you use can significantly impact the performance and lifespan of your bar and chain. Understanding the properties of different wood types and using appropriate cutting techniques can help you work more efficiently and safely.

Hardwood vs. Softwood

• Hardwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and hickory, are denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. They require a sharper chain and more power.
• Softwoods: Softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce, are less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. They are more prone to splintering and require a more careful cutting technique.

Data Point: The density of wood is measured in specific gravity. Hardwoods typically have a specific gravity of 0.5 or higher, while softwoods typically have a specific gravity of 0.4 or lower.

Cutting Techniques

• Boring: Boring involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a hole. This technique is often used for felling trees. It is important to be careful when boring, as it can increase the risk of kickback.
• Bucking: Bucking involves cutting a log into shorter lengths. It is important to support the log properly to prevent it from pinching the bar.
• Limbing: Limbing involves removing branches from a felled tree. It is important to be aware of the potential for springback when limbing.

Wood Moisture Content

The moisture content of wood can also affect cutting performance. Green wood (freshly cut wood) is easier to cut than dry wood, but it is also heavier and more prone to warping and cracking as it dries.

• Green Wood: Green wood has a high moisture content, typically above 30%. It is easier to cut but more difficult to split and season.
• Dry Wood: Dry wood has a low moisture content, typically below 20%. It is more difficult to cut but easier to split and season.

Firewood Seasoning: Firewood should be seasoned (dried) before burning to improve its heat output and reduce smoke. Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood type and climate.

My Experience: I once tried to cut a large oak log that had been drying for several years. The wood was so hard that it dulled my chain in a matter of minutes. I learned that it’s always best to cut wood when it’s still relatively green, if possible.

Avoiding Pinching

Pinching occurs when the wood closes in on the bar, trapping the chain. This can damage the bar and chain, and it can also be dangerous.

• Use Wedges: Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent the wood from pinching the bar.
• Support the Log: Support the log properly to prevent it from sagging and pinching the bar.
• Cut from Above: When bucking, cut from above to allow gravity to help keep the cut open.

Conclusion: Keep Your Husqvarna 55 Cutting Like New

By following these five expert tips, you can significantly improve the performance and lifespan of your bar and chain for your Husqvarna 55. Remember, a well-maintained bar and chain not only make your work easier but also safer. Sharpen your chain regularly, lubricate it properly, maintain the correct tension, care for your bar, and understand the wood you’re cutting. These practices will keep your Husqvarna 55 cutting like new for years to come. Now, grab your saw, put these tips into action, and experience the difference a well-maintained bar and chain can make.

Learn more