Ash Tree Treatment DIY (3 Expert Methods to Save Your Wood)

Imagine this: you’re walking through your property, admiring the sturdy ash trees that provide shade in the summer and vibrant color in the fall. They’ve been there for decades, a constant in your landscape. Then, you notice it – the telltale signs of Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) infestation: D-shaped exit holes, bark splitting, and dieback in the upper crown. Panic sets in. These trees are more than just wood; they’re part of your home, your history.

That’s where I come in. For years, I’ve worked with wood, from felling trees to crafting furniture and preparing firewood. I’ve witnessed firsthand the devastation EAB can wreak. But I’ve also learned that with timely intervention and the right techniques, it’s possible to save your ash trees and utilize the wood even if you have to cut them down. This guide isn’t just about tree care; it’s about wood utilization, a crucial aspect often overlooked. We’ll explore three expert methods to treat your ash trees and then discuss how to make the most of the wood, whether it’s for lumber, firewood, or other projects.

Ash Tree Treatment DIY: 3 Expert Methods to Save Your Wood

Before we dive into specific treatments, let’s understand what we’re up against.

Key Concepts:

• Emerald Ash Borer (EAB): An invasive beetle that feeds on the inner bark of ash trees, eventually killing them.
• Systemic Insecticide: An insecticide that is absorbed by the tree and distributed throughout its tissues, killing insects that feed on it.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often above 30%).
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a lower moisture content (typically 12-18% for firewood, 6-8% for furniture).
• Debarking: Removing the bark from a log.
• Cord of Wood: A standard unit of measure for firewood, typically 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long (128 cubic feet).

Method 1: Systemic Insecticide Soil Drench

This method involves applying a systemic insecticide to the soil around the base of the tree. The insecticide is then absorbed by the tree’s roots and transported throughout its system, killing EAB larvae as they feed.

Why This Method?

• Relatively easy to apply.
• Provides protection for up to a year.
• Less expensive than trunk injections.

Tools and Materials:

• Systemic Insecticide: Containing imidacloprid or dinotefuran. Read the label carefully and follow all instructions. I personally prefer imidacloprid for its longer residual effect, but dinotefuran works faster, which can be crucial if you’re seeing heavy EAB activity.
• Measuring Cup or Container: To accurately measure the insecticide.
• Watering Can or Bucket: To apply the insecticide solution.
• Gloves: To protect your skin.
• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes.
• Shovel or Trowel: To loosen the soil around the base of the tree.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Identify the Tree: Make sure you’re treating an ash tree. Ash trees have opposite branching patterns (leaves and branches grow directly across from each other). They also have compound leaves with 5-11 leaflets.
2. Calculate the Dosage: The amount of insecticide you need will depend on the diameter of the tree at breast height (DBH). Measure the DBH using a measuring tape. Consult the insecticide label for the correct dosage based on the DBH. I always double-check my calculations. Overdosing can harm the tree.
3. Prepare the Soil: Loosen the soil around the base of the tree, extending out about 2-3 feet from the trunk. This will help the insecticide penetrate the soil and reach the roots. Remove any mulch or debris from the area.
4. Mix the Insecticide: Carefully measure the required amount of insecticide and mix it with water according to the label instructions. Always add the insecticide to the water, not the other way around, to prevent splashing.
5. Apply the Solution: Slowly pour the insecticide solution around the base of the tree, making sure to distribute it evenly.
6. Water the Area: After applying the solution, water the area thoroughly to help the insecticide soak into the soil.
7. Monitor the Tree: Check the tree regularly for signs of EAB activity. Reapply the insecticide annually, following the label instructions.

Personal Experience: I once treated a group of ash trees on a property using this method. The trees were showing early signs of EAB infestation, but they were still relatively healthy. After two years of treatment, the trees showed no further signs of EAB activity, and they continued to thrive. The key was early detection and consistent application.

Cost: The cost of this method is relatively low, typically ranging from $20 to $50 per tree per year, depending on the size of the tree and the cost of the insecticide.

Skill Level: Beginner.

Method 2: Systemic Insecticide Trunk Injection

This method involves injecting a systemic insecticide directly into the trunk of the tree. This allows for faster and more targeted delivery of the insecticide.

Why This Method?

• More effective than soil drench for heavily infested trees.
• Provides longer-lasting protection (up to two years).
• Less likely to impact non-target insects.

Tools and Materials:

• Systemic Insecticide: Containing emamectin benzoate. Emamectin benzoate is generally considered the most effective insecticide for EAB control. It’s more expensive but often worth it for valuable trees.
• Trunk Injection System: This can be a low-pressure or high-pressure system. I prefer low-pressure systems for smaller trees as they are less likely to damage the tree.
• Drill: To create injection sites.
• Drill Bits: Of the correct size for the injection system.
• Measuring Tape: To measure the DBH of the tree.
• Gloves: To protect your skin.
• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Identify the Tree: As with the soil drench method, ensure you’re treating an ash tree.
2. Calculate the Dosage: The amount of insecticide you need will depend on the DBH of the tree. Consult the insecticide label and the injection system instructions for the correct dosage.
3. Prepare the Injection Sites: Drill holes around the base of the tree, just below the bark. The number of holes and their spacing will depend on the injection system. I typically space the holes 4-6 inches apart around the circumference of the tree.
4. Inject the Insecticide: Connect the injection system to the holes and inject the insecticide according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
5. Seal the Injection Sites: After injecting the insecticide, seal the injection sites with plugs or sealant to prevent infection.
6. Monitor the Tree: Check the tree regularly for signs of EAB activity. Reapply the insecticide every two years, following the label instructions.

Original Case Study: I once used trunk injections to save a large ash tree on a golf course. The tree was heavily infested with EAB and was showing significant dieback. After two years of treatment, the tree recovered significantly, and the dieback was reversed. The superintendent was thrilled, and the tree is still standing strong today.

Cost: The cost of this method is higher than soil drench, typically ranging from $100 to $300 per tree, depending on the size of the tree and the type of injection system used.

Skill Level: Intermediate. Requires some experience with tree care and the use of specialized equipment.

Method 3: Biological Control – Introducing Natural Predators

This method involves introducing natural predators of the EAB to control its population. This is a more sustainable and environmentally friendly approach to EAB control.

Why This Method?

• Environmentally friendly.
• Sustainable in the long term.
• Reduces the need for chemical insecticides.

Tools and Materials:

• Parasitoid Wasps: Several species of parasitoid wasps have been introduced to North America to control EAB. These wasps lay their eggs inside EAB larvae, killing them. The USDA has approved the release of several species, including Tetrastichus planipennisi and Oobius agrili. Contact your local extension office for information on availability and release programs.
• Information and Instructions: From your local extension office or the USDA on how to release the wasps.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Contact Your Local Extension Office: They can provide information on EAB biological control programs in your area and help you obtain parasitoid wasps.
2. Release the Wasps: Follow the instructions provided by the extension office or the USDA for releasing the wasps. Typically, this involves placing the wasp pupae in a protected location near infested ash trees.
3. Monitor the EAB Population: Monitor the EAB population to see if the wasps are having an impact. This can be done by inspecting ash trees for signs of EAB activity and by trapping EAB adults.
4. Continue to Release Wasps: Continue to release wasps as needed to maintain control of the EAB population.

Data and Insights: Studies have shown that parasitoid wasps can significantly reduce EAB populations. In some areas, wasp populations have become established and are providing long-term control of EAB. However, biological control is not a quick fix and may take several years to see significant results.

Cost: The cost of this method varies depending on the availability of parasitoid wasps and the size of the area you are treating. In some cases, the wasps are provided free of charge by government agencies.

Skill Level: Beginner. Requires minimal effort and expertise.

Utilizing Ash Wood: From Infested Tree to Valuable Resource

Even with treatment, some ash trees may be too far gone to save and require removal. But that doesn’t mean the wood is worthless! Ash wood is prized for its strength, flexibility, and beautiful grain. Here’s how to utilize it:

Firewood

Ash is an excellent firewood. It splits easily, seasons quickly, and burns hot and clean.

Steps for Preparing Ash Firewood:

1. Felling the Tree: Safety First! Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chaps. Plan your felling cut carefully, considering the lean of the tree and any obstacles. Use a chainsaw with a sharp chain. I personally use a Stihl MS 261 for felling smaller trees and a Stihl MS 462 for larger ones. A good rule of thumb is to use a chainsaw with a bar length at least as long as the diameter of the tree you’re felling.
2. Limbing: Remove the branches from the felled tree.
3. Bucking: Cut the trunk into firewood-length pieces. I typically cut my firewood to 16-inch lengths, which fits well in most wood stoves. Use a measuring stick to ensure consistent lengths.
4. Splitting: Split the rounds into smaller pieces. A hydraulic log splitter is a game-changer for splitting large rounds. I use a 27-ton splitter, which handles even the toughest ash rounds with ease. For smaller rounds, a splitting axe or maul works well.
5. Stacking: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to season. I prefer to stack my firewood in rows, with plenty of space between the rows for air circulation. Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
6. Seasoning: Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, preferably a year or more. The moisture content of firewood should be below 20% for optimal burning. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content before burning.

Strategic Advantages: Burning seasoned ash firewood is an efficient and cost-effective way to heat your home. It also reduces the amount of waste generated from infested trees.

Technical Details:

• Chainsaw: Stihl MS 261 (for smaller trees), Stihl MS 462 (for larger trees).
• Log Splitter: 27-ton hydraulic splitter.
• Moisture Content Target: Below 20%.
• Drying Time: 6-12 months.

Lumber

Ash wood can be milled into lumber for furniture, flooring, and other woodworking projects.

Steps for Milling Ash Lumber:

1. Felling and Bucking: Follow the same steps as for preparing firewood.
2. Debarking: Remove the bark from the logs. Debarking helps to prevent insect infestation and speeds up the drying process. A drawknife or a debarking spud can be used to remove the bark.
3. Milling: Mill the logs into lumber using a sawmill. I use a portable sawmill, which allows me to mill logs on-site. The choice between a bandsaw mill or a chainsaw mill depends on the volume of wood and the desired precision. Bandsaw mills are generally more precise and efficient for larger volumes.
4. Stacking and Drying: Stack the lumber in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry. Proper stacking is crucial to prevent warping and twisting. Use stickers (thin strips of wood) to separate the layers of lumber and allow for air circulation.
5. Kiln Drying (Optional): Kiln drying can speed up the drying process and reduce the risk of warping and twisting. I have a small solar kiln that I use to dry smaller quantities of lumber. Commercial kilns are available for larger volumes.

Benefits: Ash lumber is strong, durable, and easy to work with. It has a beautiful grain pattern and can be stained or finished to match any decor.

Technical Details:

• Sawmill: Portable bandsaw mill or chainsaw mill.
• Stickers: 1-inch thick x 1-inch wide.
• Moisture Content Target: 6-8% for furniture, 8-12% for flooring.
• Air Drying Time: 6-12 months per inch of thickness.
• Kiln Drying Time: 1-4 weeks, depending on the species and thickness of the lumber.

Other Uses

Ash wood can also be used for a variety of other purposes, including:

• Tool Handles: Ash is strong and shock-resistant, making it ideal for tool handles.
• Baseball Bats: Ash is a popular choice for baseball bats due to its strength and flexibility.
• Bowls and Other Turnings: Ash turns beautifully on a lathe and can be used to create a variety of decorative objects.
• Wood Chips and Mulch: Smaller branches and wood scraps can be chipped and used as mulch in gardens.

Personal Insights: I once used ash wood from a tree I had to remove to build a beautiful dining table. The table is now a centerpiece in my home, a reminder of the tree’s life and a testament to the value of utilizing wood resources.

Safety Considerations

Working with trees and wood can be dangerous. Always follow these safety precautions:

• Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
• Use tools and equipment properly: Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all tools and equipment.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for falling branches, unstable ground, and other hazards.
• Never work alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Take breaks: Working with trees and wood can be physically demanding. Take breaks to avoid fatigue.

Next Steps and Implementation Guidance

Now that you’ve learned about the three expert methods for treating ash trees and how to utilize the wood, it’s time to take action.

1. Assess Your Ash Trees: Inspect your ash trees for signs of EAB infestation.
2. Choose a Treatment Method: Select the treatment method that is best suited for your situation and budget.
3. Gather Your Tools and Materials: Purchase the necessary tools and materials.
4. Implement the Treatment: Follow the instructions carefully and apply the treatment.
5. Utilize the Wood: If you have to remove an ash tree, don’t let the wood go to waste. Use it for firewood, lumber, or other projects.

Challenges for Global DIYers and Small-Scale Logging Businesses:

• Access to Resources: Availability of insecticides, parasitoid wasps, and specialized equipment may vary depending on your location.
• Cost: The cost of treatment and equipment can be a barrier for some DIYers and small-scale businesses.
• Regulations: Regulations regarding the use of insecticides and the removal of trees may vary depending on your location.

Strategic Recommendations:

• Connect with Your Local Extension Office: They can provide valuable information and resources.
• Network with Other Woodworkers and Loggers: Share information and resources.
• Explore Alternative Treatments: Consider using organic or sustainable treatment methods.
• Focus on Value-Added Products: Turn ash wood into high-value products to increase your profits.

Saving your ash trees and utilizing the wood is a rewarding experience. It’s a way to protect your property, conserve resources, and create something beautiful and useful. By following the expert methods and guidance in this guide, you can successfully treat your ash trees and make the most of the wood. Remember to prioritize safety and always adapt the techniques to your specific circumstances. Good luck!

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