Wood Pile Tarps: Best Durable Covers for Firewood (Pro Tips)

Have you ever spent a beautiful autumn afternoon splitting and stacking firewood, only to watch it get soaked by a surprise downpour? It’s frustrating, right? All that hard work, potentially wasted. That’s where a good wood pile tarp comes in. But not all tarps are created equal. I’ve learned this the hard way, through years of experience in the woods, from small-scale firewood prep to assisting on larger logging operations. Choosing the right tarp can be the difference between well-seasoned, ready-to-burn firewood and a moldy, unusable mess. This guide isn’t just about buying any old tarp; it’s about finding the best durable cover for your firewood, packed with pro tips I’ve gathered over the years.

Wood Pile Tarps: Best Durable Covers for Firewood (Pro Tips)

Why a Good Wood Pile Tarp Matters

Let’s start with the basics. Why bother with a tarp at all? The goal when preparing firewood is to reduce the moisture content of the wood. Green wood, freshly cut, can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. Seasoned firewood, ready to burn efficiently, should be below 20%. Burning wet wood is inefficient, produces more smoke (and creosote, which is a fire hazard in your chimney), and frankly, it’s a pain to get started.

A tarp helps in two crucial ways:

1. Protection from Rain and Snow: This is obvious, but vital. Preventing water from soaking into your wood is the first line of defense against rot and slow drying.
2. Controlled Drying: This is where the “pro” part comes in. You don’t want to completely seal your wood pile. You need airflow to allow moisture to escape. A properly positioned tarp protects from direct precipitation while still allowing ventilation.

Understanding Key Terms

Before we dive into tarp specifics, let’s define some key terms that will come up frequently:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a suitable moisture content for burning.
• Moisture Content (MC): The percentage of water in the wood, by weight.
• Cord: A standard unit of measurement for firewood, typically 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long (128 cubic feet).
• Denier: A unit of measurement for the linear mass density of fibers. Higher denier typically means a stronger, more durable fabric.
• Mil: A unit of thickness, equal to one thousandth of an inch (0.001 inch). Often used to describe the thickness of plastic sheeting.
• UV Resistance: The ability of a material to withstand degradation from ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun.

Choosing the Right Tarp: Material Matters

The material of your tarp is arguably the most important factor in its durability and effectiveness. Here’s a breakdown of the most common options:

• Polyethylene (Poly) Tarps: These are the most common and affordable tarps. They’re lightweight, waterproof, and readily available at most hardware stores. However, they are also the least durable, especially when exposed to sunlight.

  • Pros: Inexpensive, waterproof, lightweight.
  • Cons: Low UV resistance, tears easily, shorter lifespan.
  • Ideal for: Short-term storage, temporary protection, small wood piles in sheltered locations.
  • My Experience: I used to rely on poly tarps exclusively, but I found myself replacing them every year. The sun would degrade them, and even a moderate wind could rip them. They’re okay in a pinch, but not a long-term solution. I usually look for at least a 12 mil thickness.

  • Canvas Tarps: Canvas tarps are made from tightly woven cotton or hemp. They’re more breathable than poly tarps, which is good for ventilation, but they are not completely waterproof unless treated.

  • Pros: Breathable, relatively durable, natural material.

  • Cons: Can be heavy, requires treatment for water resistance, prone to mildew if not properly cared for.
  • Ideal for: Situations where ventilation is more important than complete waterproofing, such as covering lumber stacks.
  • My Experience: I’ve used canvas tarps for covering lumber in my workshop. They’re great for allowing the wood to breathe and prevent moisture buildup, but they do require regular re-treatment with a waterproofing agent.

  • Vinyl Tarps: Vinyl tarps are made from a polyester scrim coated with vinyl. They are much stronger and more durable than poly tarps and are also waterproof and UV resistant.

  • Pros: Highly durable, waterproof, UV resistant, long lifespan.

  • Cons: More expensive than poly tarps, can be heavy, less breathable than canvas.
  • Ideal for: Long-term storage, large wood piles, harsh weather conditions.
  • My Experience: I switched to vinyl tarps for my main firewood stacks a few years ago, and the difference is night and day. They’ve held up to heavy snow, strong winds, and intense sun without any signs of wear. The initial investment is higher, but they pay for themselves in the long run. I recommend at least 18 oz per square yard for heavy-duty use.

  • Mesh Tarps: Mesh tarps are made from a woven mesh fabric, usually polyethylene or polypropylene. They provide excellent ventilation but offer little protection from rain or snow.

  • Pros: Excellent ventilation, lightweight, inexpensive.

  • Cons: Not waterproof, limited protection from the elements.
  • Ideal for: Covering wood piles in dry climates or during the initial drying phase when ventilation is crucial.
  • My Experience: I use mesh tarps in the summer to allow maximum airflow around freshly split wood. This helps to accelerate the drying process before the rainy season arrives.

  • Polypropylene Tarps: Similar to polyethylene, but generally stronger and more resistant to tearing. Often used for heavier-duty applications than standard poly tarps.

  • Pros: More durable than polyethylene, waterproof, relatively inexpensive.

  • Cons: Still susceptible to UV degradation, not as durable as vinyl.
  • Ideal for: Medium-term storage, covering equipment, general-purpose use.

Choosing the Right Material: A Summary

Tarp Size and Shape: Getting the Right Fit

Choosing the right size and shape tarp is crucial for effective coverage and to prevent unnecessary wear and tear.

• Calculating Tarp Size: Measure the dimensions of your wood pile (length, width, and height). Add extra length and width to allow for overhang and securing the tarp. A good rule of thumb is to add at least 2 feet to each dimension.
• Shape Considerations: Rectangular tarps are the most common and versatile. However, for irregularly shaped wood piles, a custom-shaped tarp might be a better option.
• Overhang: A proper overhang is essential to prevent rain from running down the sides of the tarp and soaking the wood. Aim for at least 1 foot of overhang on all sides.
• Example: Let’s say you have a wood pile that is 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet high. You would need a tarp that is at least 10 feet long and 6 feet wide to provide adequate coverage and overhang.

My Experience: I once underestimated the size of a tarp and ended up with the edges barely covering the top of my wood pile. A heavy rain quickly soaked the exposed wood, and I had to scramble to find a larger tarp. Lesson learned: always err on the side of caution and choose a tarp that is slightly larger than you think you need.

Securing Your Tarp: Preventing Wind Damage

A durable tarp is useless if it’s not properly secured. Wind can easily rip a tarp off a wood pile, exposing your firewood to the elements. Here are some effective methods for securing your tarp:

• Grommets: Most tarps come with grommets (metal or plastic rings) along the edges. These are used to attach ropes, bungee cords, or tie-downs.
• Bungee Cords: Bungee cords are elastic cords with hooks on each end. They provide a flexible and secure way to attach the tarp to the wood pile or to stakes driven into the ground.
• Rope: Rope can be used to tie the tarp down, but it’s important to use a strong, weather-resistant rope, such as nylon or polypropylene.
• Tarp Clips: Tarp clips are plastic or metal clips that attach to the edge of the tarp, providing a secure point for attaching ropes or bungee cords.
• Sandbags: Sandbags can be placed on top of the tarp to weigh it down and prevent it from blowing away.
• Securing to the Wood Pile: If possible, secure the tarp directly to the wood pile by weaving ropes or bungee cords through the wood.
• Stakes: Drive stakes into the ground around the wood pile and attach the tarp to the stakes using ropes or bungee cords.

Pro Tip: Don’t rely solely on the grommets to secure your tarp. They can tear out under stress. Use tarp clips to distribute the load and create additional attachment points.

My Experience: I live in an area with strong winds, so I’ve had to experiment with different tarp securing methods. I’ve found that a combination of bungee cords, rope, and tarp clips works best. I also use sandbags on top of the tarp for extra security.

Tarp Placement: The Key to Controlled Drying

The way you position your tarp is just as important as the type of tarp you choose. The goal is to protect the wood from rain and snow while still allowing for adequate ventilation.

• The “Roof” Method: The most common method is to cover only the top of the wood pile, leaving the sides exposed. This allows air to circulate freely, promoting drying.
• The “A-Frame” Method: This involves creating a peaked roof over the wood pile, allowing rain and snow to run off easily. This method is particularly effective in areas with heavy snowfall.
• The “Partial Wrap” Method: This involves covering the top and sides of the wood pile, leaving the ends open for ventilation. This method provides more protection from the elements but can also reduce airflow.
• Elevated Wood Pile: Elevating the wood pile off the ground on pallets or timbers is crucial for promoting airflow and preventing moisture from wicking up from the ground.
• Spacing: Leave space between rows of wood to allow for better air circulation.
• Sun Exposure: Position your wood pile in a sunny location to maximize drying.

Pro Tip: Don’t completely cover your wood pile with a tarp. This will trap moisture and prevent the wood from drying properly. Aim for a balance between protection and ventilation.

Case Study: The Importance of Airflow

I once helped a friend prepare firewood for the winter. He completely wrapped his wood pile in a heavy-duty tarp, thinking he was doing a good job of protecting it from the rain. However, when he went to burn the wood a few months later, he found that it was still wet and moldy. The lack of airflow had prevented the wood from drying properly, despite being covered. We ended up having to re-stack the wood, leaving the sides exposed, and waiting several more months for it to dry.

Wood Stacking Techniques for Optimal Drying

The way you stack your firewood also plays a crucial role in how quickly it dries. Here are some proven techniques:

• Criss-Cross Stacking: This involves alternating the direction of each layer of wood, creating a stable and well-ventilated stack.
• Holz Hausen: A circular wood stack with a slightly inward slope. This design provides excellent stability and ventilation.
• Linear Rows: Stacking wood in straight rows, leaving space between each row for airflow.
• Elevated Base: Use pallets, timbers, or rocks to raise the wood pile off the ground, preventing moisture from wicking up from the soil.
• Stacking Direction: Orient the wood pile so that it is exposed to prevailing winds, which will help to dry the wood.
• Sun Exposure: Choose a sunny location for your wood pile to maximize drying.

My Experience: I’ve tried all of these stacking methods, and I’ve found that criss-cross stacking and linear rows are the most practical for my needs. I always make sure to elevate the wood pile off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up.

Monitoring Moisture Content: Knowing When Your Wood is Ready

The only way to know for sure if your firewood is properly seasoned is to measure its moisture content. Here are some methods for doing so:

• Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a handheld device that measures the moisture content of wood. Simply insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood, and the meter will display the moisture content as a percentage.
• Visual Inspection: Experienced firewood users can often estimate the moisture content of wood by visual inspection. Seasoned wood will be lighter in color, have cracks in the end grain, and sound hollow when struck.
• Weight: Seasoned wood will be significantly lighter than green wood.
• The “Sizzle Test”: Place a piece of wood on a hot fire. If it sizzles and steams, it is still too wet to burn efficiently.

Pro Tip: Use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your firewood. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.

My Experience: I rely on a moisture meter to ensure that my firewood is properly seasoned. It takes the guesswork out of the process and helps me to avoid burning wet wood. I use a Delmhorst BD-10, which has served me well for years.

Choosing the Right Wood Species

The type of wood you burn also affects its drying time and burning characteristics. Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, are denser and contain more energy than softwoods, such as pine and fir. However, hardwoods also take longer to dry.

• Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, birch, beech.
  • Pros: High heat output, long burning time.
  • Cons: Longer drying time, can be more difficult to split.
• Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce, cedar.
  • Pros: Easier to split, dries faster, good for starting fires.
  • Cons: Lower heat output, shorter burning time, produces more smoke.

Drying Times:

• Hardwoods: Typically require 12-24 months of seasoning.
• Softwoods: Typically require 6-12 months of seasoning.

My Experience: I primarily burn oak and maple, as they provide the best heat output for my wood stove. However, I also keep a supply of pine for starting fires.

Chainsaws, Axes, and Log Splitters: Essential Tools for Firewood Preparation

Preparing firewood requires the right tools. Here’s a rundown of the essential equipment:

• Chainsaw: A chainsaw is used to fell trees and cut logs into manageable lengths.
  • Recommendations: Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss, Husqvarna 455 Rancher.
  • Safety: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
• Axe: An axe is used to split firewood.
  • Recommendations: Fiskars X27 Splitting Axe, Gransfors Bruks Splitting Axe.
  • Technique: Use a chopping block and swing the axe with a controlled motion.
• Log Splitter: A log splitter is a hydraulic or electric machine that splits logs with ease.
  • Recommendations: Champion Power Equipment 25-Ton Log Splitter, WEN 6.5-Ton Electric Log Splitter.
  • Benefits: Increases efficiency, reduces strain on the body.
• Wedges and Sledgehammer: Wedges are used to split particularly tough logs. Drive the wedge into the log with a sledgehammer.
• Peavey or Log Hook: Used to move and position logs.
• Measuring Tools: Tape measure, chainsaw file, wedges.

My Experience: I started out splitting wood with an axe, but I eventually invested in a log splitter. It has made the process much faster and easier, especially when dealing with large, knotty logs. I still use an axe for smaller pieces and for kindling.

Safety First: Protecting Yourself While Preparing Firewood

Firewood preparation can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not taken. Here are some essential safety tips:

• Wear appropriate safety gear: Helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps.
• Use tools properly: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and never modify tools.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for overhead hazards, uneven terrain, and other people.
• Take breaks: Firewood preparation can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
• Never work alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.
• Chainsaw Safety: Take a chainsaw safety course to learn proper felling and cutting techniques.
• Proper Lifting Techniques: Lift with your legs, not your back.

My Experience: I’ve had a few close calls while preparing firewood, and I’ve learned the importance of taking safety seriously. I always wear my safety gear, and I never rush the job.

Cost Analysis: Tarp Investment vs. Wood Loss

It’s tempting to skimp on a wood pile tarp to save money, but consider the potential cost of wood loss due to rot and spoilage. A high-quality tarp is an investment that will pay for itself in the long run by protecting your firewood and ensuring that it is ready to burn when you need it.

• Cost of a good vinyl tarp: $100 – $300 (depending on size and thickness).
• Cost of replacing spoiled firewood: Can easily exceed the cost of a good tarp.
• Value of your time and effort: Consider the time and effort you put into preparing firewood. A good tarp protects your investment.

My Experience: I used to replace cheap poly tarps every year, which ended up costing me more in the long run than investing in a durable vinyl tarp. Plus, I was constantly worried about the tarp ripping and exposing my firewood to the elements.

Strategic Advantages of Using the Right Tarp

Beyond simply protecting your firewood from the rain, the right tarp can provide several strategic advantages:

1. Assess your firewood needs: Determine how much firewood you will need for the winter.
2. Choose the right wood species: Select a wood species that is readily available in your area and that meets your burning needs.
3. Gather your tools and equipment: Make sure you have all the necessary tools, including a chainsaw, axe, log splitter, and safety gear.
4. Prepare your wood pile location: Choose a sunny, well-drained location for your wood pile.
5. Stack your firewood: Use a proven stacking technique to promote drying.
6. Choose the right tarp: Select a tarp that is durable, waterproof, and the right size for your wood pile.
7. Secure your tarp properly: Use a combination of bungee cords, rope, and tarp clips to secure the tarp.
8. Monitor moisture content: Use a moisture meter to track the drying progress of your firewood.
9. Enjoy your warm, efficient fires: Once your firewood is properly seasoned, enjoy the warmth and efficiency of burning dry wood.

Final Thoughts

Protecting your firewood with a durable tarp is an essential step in ensuring that you have a reliable source of heat for the winter. By following the pro tips in this guide, you can choose the right tarp, position it effectively, and secure it properly, ensuring that your firewood stays dry, well-ventilated, and ready to burn. Happy splitting!

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