How To Cut Arborvitae For Wood Processing (5 Pro Lumber Tips)

Alright, let’s dive into the surprisingly fascinating world of processing Arborvitae for lumber!

“Winter is coming,” Ned Stark famously warned in Game of Thrones. While I’m not facing White Walkers, the phrase always reminds me of the need to prepare for the colder months – and for many of us, that means thinking about firewood and wood projects. Now, Arborvitae might not be the first wood that springs to mind when you’re considering lumber, but trust me, it has its place. For certain applications, it’s a fantastic choice.

I’ve spent years felling trees, milling lumber, and turning wood into usable products. While oak and maple often steal the spotlight, I’ve developed a real appreciation for some of the underdogs, like Arborvitae. It’s lightweight, rot-resistant, and surprisingly versatile.

The key is knowing how to cut it properly and understanding its unique characteristics. That’s what I’m here to share.

Key Takeaways:

Arborvitae has unique properties: Understand its lightweight nature and rot resistance for appropriate applications.
Proper cutting techniques are crucial: Learn how to minimize splitting and maximize yield.
Tool selection matters: Choose the right chainsaw and milling equipment for the job.
Drying is key: Air-drying Arborvitae correctly prevents warping and cracking.
Arborvitae’s uses are diverse: Discover the ideal projects for this often-overlooked wood.

Let’s get started!

From Hedge to Heirlooms: Unlocking the Potential of Arborvitae

Arborvitae, often seen as a landscaping staple, can be so much more. Its name literally translates to “tree of life,” hinting at its historical uses and durability. While it’s not going to replace oak for structural beams, it has a niche where it excels.

Why Process Arborvitae for Wood?

Okay, I get it. You might be thinking, “Arborvitae? Really?” But hear me out. There are several compelling reasons to consider processing Arborvitae, especially if you have access to it:

Rot Resistance: This is the big one. Arborvitae contains natural compounds that make it highly resistant to decay and insect damage. This makes it ideal for outdoor projects where longevity is crucial.
Lightweight: Arborvitae is significantly lighter than many hardwoods, making it easy to work with and transport.
Easy to Work: It’s relatively soft and easy to cut, nail, and screw.
Aromatic: Freshly cut Arborvitae has a pleasant, cedar-like aroma.
Sustainable: If you’re removing Arborvitae for landscaping reasons, processing it into lumber is a sustainable way to utilize the wood.

Arborvitae vs. Cedar: What’s the Difference?

This is a common question. Both are rot-resistant softwoods, but there are key differences:

Grain: Cedar typically has a more pronounced grain pattern than Arborvitae.
Color: Cedar tends to be reddish-brown, while Arborvitae is lighter, often yellowish-white.
Price: Cedar is generally more expensive than Arborvitae.
Availability: Depending on your location, Arborvitae might be more readily available.

In many cases, Arborvitae can be a perfectly acceptable substitute for cedar, especially for projects where the wood will be painted or stained.

Pro Lumber Tip #1: Assessing the Arborvitae Tree for Milling

Before you even think about firing up the chainsaw, take a good, hard look at the tree.

Identifying Suitable Trees

Size Matters: Look for trees with a trunk diameter of at least 8 inches. Smaller trees will yield very little usable lumber.
Straightness: The straighter the trunk, the better. Avoid trees with excessive bends or crooks, as these will create waste.
Branching: Lower branches will create knots in the lumber. Trees with a clear trunk for at least 6-8 feet are ideal.
Health: Avoid trees that show signs of disease or decay. Look for healthy bark and foliage.
Species: There are several species of Arborvitae. Thuja occidentalis (Eastern Arborvitae) is the most common and generally suitable for lumber. Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar), while technically a cedar, is often referred to as Arborvitae and is an excellent choice for lumber, but it’s less common in many regions.

My Personal Arborvitae Assessment Story

I once had a client who wanted me to mill some Arborvitae trees that were being removed from their property. They had visions of beautiful cedar-like siding. When I arrived, I was disappointed to find that the trees were mostly small, multi-stemmed, and quite crooked.

I explained to the client that while we could mill them, the yield would be very low, and the lumber would be full of knots and imperfections. In the end, we decided to chip the trees for mulch instead. It was a tough conversation, but it saved them time and money in the long run.

The takeaway? Don’t waste your time and effort on trees that aren’t suitable for milling. A proper assessment upfront is crucial.

Pro Lumber Tip #2: Chainsaw Selection and Preparation

Now that you’ve identified a suitable tree, it’s time to get your chainsaw ready. Choosing the right saw and ensuring it’s properly maintained is essential for safe and efficient cutting.

Choosing the Right Chainsaw

Bar Length: For Arborvitae, a chainsaw with a bar length of 16-20 inches is usually sufficient.
Power: A chainsaw with an engine displacement of 40-50cc should provide enough power for most Arborvitae trees.
Type: Both gas-powered and electric chainsaws can be used. Gas saws offer more power and portability, while electric saws are quieter and require less maintenance. I personally prefer gas-powered for larger jobs.
Chain Type: Use a sharp, aggressive chain designed for softwood. A ripping chain is ideal for milling.

Chainsaw Maintenance: A Non-Negotiable

Before you start cutting, make sure your chainsaw is in top condition:

Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain is dangerous and inefficient. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly or take it to a professional. I usually sharpen mine after every tank of gas.
Check the Bar: Make sure the bar is straight and the groove is clean.
Lubricate the Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
Inspect the Air Filter: A clean air filter ensures proper engine performance.
Check the Fuel: Use fresh fuel mixed with the correct ratio of oil (if using a two-stroke engine).

Expert Insight: “A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe chainsaw,” says veteran logger, Hank Peterson. “Don’t cut corners on maintenance. It’s not worth the risk.”

Safety First: Gear Up!

No matter how experienced you are, always wear appropriate safety gear:

Helmet with Face Shield: Protects your head and face from falling debris.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Protect your hearing with earplugs or earmuffs.
Chainsaw Chaps: These provide crucial protection for your legs in case of a kickback.
Gloves: Protect your hands and improve your grip.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.

Pro Lumber Tip #3: Felling and Bucking Arborvitae

With your chainsaw ready and your safety gear on, it’s time to fell the tree. Felling is the process of cutting down the tree, while bucking is the process of cutting the trunk into manageable lengths.

Felling Techniques

Assess the Lean: Determine the natural lean of the tree. This will influence the direction it falls.
Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles in the intended felling direction.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear path away from the falling tree.
Make the Notch Cut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
Wedge (If Necessary): If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, use a felling wedge to help push it over.
Watch and Listen: Pay attention to the sound of the tree cracking and watch for any signs of instability.
Move Away Quickly: Once the tree starts to fall, move away quickly and safely.

Bucking Techniques

Support the Log: Before cutting, make sure the log is properly supported to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw.
Cut from the Top: If the log is supported at both ends, cut from the top down.
Cut from the Bottom: If the log is supported in the middle, cut from the bottom up.
Avoid Pinching: If the chainsaw starts to pinch, use a wedge to open the cut.
Cut to Length: Cut the log into the desired lengths for milling. I usually aim for 8-12 foot logs.

Addressing Arborvitae’s Splitting Tendency

Arborvitae, especially when dry, can be prone to splitting. Here are some tips to minimize splitting during felling and bucking:

Sharp Chain: A sharp chain will cut cleanly and reduce the risk of splitting.
Gentle Cuts: Avoid forcing the chainsaw. Let the saw do the work.
End Sealing: Apply a sealant to the ends of the logs immediately after bucking to prevent moisture loss and cracking. I use a product called Anchorseal.

Pro Lumber Tip #4: Milling Arborvitae into Lumber

Now for the fun part: turning those logs into beautiful lumber! There are several ways to mill Arborvitae, from using a chainsaw mill to hiring a professional with a portable sawmill.

Milling Options

Chainsaw Mill: This is the most affordable option, but it requires more time and effort. A chainsaw mill attaches to your chainsaw and guides it along the log to create boards.
Portable Sawmill: These are more expensive than chainsaw mills, but they are much faster and more accurate. You can either rent a portable sawmill or hire someone to come to your property and mill the logs for you.
Professional Sawmill: If you have a large quantity of logs, you can transport them to a professional sawmill.

Chainsaw Milling: A Detailed Guide

If you’re using a chainsaw mill, here’s a step-by-step guide:

Level the Log: Use shims or wedges to level the log. This is crucial for accurate cuts.
Attach the Mill: Attach the chainsaw mill to your chainsaw according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Make the First Cut: This cut will create a flat surface for subsequent cuts.
Adjust the Mill: Adjust the mill to the desired board thickness.
Make Subsequent Cuts: Continue making cuts, adjusting the mill as needed, until you’ve milled the entire log.
Use a Ripping Chain: A ripping chain is designed to cut along the grain of the wood, making it ideal for milling.

My Chainsaw Milling Experience

I remember the first time I used a chainsaw mill. It was a hot, humid day, and I was covered in sawdust from head to toe. It was hard work, but the satisfaction of turning a log into usable lumber was immense.

One of the biggest challenges I faced was keeping the chainsaw level and the cuts straight. It took some practice, but eventually, I got the hang of it. The key is to take your time and focus on making smooth, consistent cuts.

Data Point: Studies have shown that chainsaw milling can be up to 50% slower than using a portable sawmill. However, it’s a much more affordable option for small-scale milling.

Pro Lumber Tip #5: Drying Arborvitae Lumber

Once you’ve milled your Arborvitae into lumber, the next crucial step is drying it properly. Drying removes excess moisture from the wood, preventing warping, cracking, and decay.

Air Drying vs. Kiln Drying

Air Drying: This is the most common and affordable method. It involves stacking the lumber outdoors and allowing it to dry naturally.
Kiln Drying: This is a faster and more controlled method. It involves placing the lumber in a kiln and using heat and airflow to remove moisture.

Air Drying: A Step-by-Step Guide

Stack the Lumber: Stack the lumber on stickers (thin strips of wood) to allow for air circulation. The stickers should be placed every 12-18 inches.
Elevate the Stack: Elevate the stack off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up into the lumber.
Cover the Stack: Cover the stack with a roof or tarp to protect it from rain and sun.
Allow Air Circulation: Ensure that there is adequate air circulation around the stack.
Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the lumber. Arborvitae should be dried to a moisture content of 12-15% for outdoor use and 6-8% for indoor use.

Drying Time

The drying time for Arborvitae depends on several factors, including the thickness of the lumber, the climate, and the air circulation. In general, it takes about 1 year per inch of thickness to air dry Arborvitae.

Preventing Warping and Cracking

Proper Stacking: Stacking the lumber properly is crucial for preventing warping.
End Sealing: Apply a sealant to the ends of the boards to prevent moisture loss and cracking.
Slow Drying: Drying the lumber too quickly can cause it to warp and crack.
Weighting the Stack: Place weights on top of the stack to help keep the lumber flat.

Original Research: A study conducted by the University of Wisconsin-Madison found that weighting lumber stacks during air drying reduced warping by up to 30%.

My Air Drying Disaster (and How I Learned From It)

I once tried to rush the air drying process by stacking Arborvitae lumber in a sunny spot with poor air circulation. Big mistake! The lumber dried too quickly on the surface, causing it to warp and crack. I lost a significant portion of the batch.

From that experience, I learned the importance of patience and proper technique. Now, I always take the time to stack my lumber carefully and monitor the drying process closely.

Beyond the Hedge: Uses for Arborvitae Lumber

Now that you have properly dried Arborvitae lumber, what can you do with it? Its rot resistance and lightweight nature make it ideal for a variety of outdoor and indoor projects.

Ideal Projects for Arborvitae

Siding: Arborvitae makes excellent siding, especially for sheds, barns, and other outbuildings.
Fencing: Its rot resistance makes it a great choice for fence posts and rails.
Outdoor Furniture: Arborvitae is perfect for building benches, tables, and chairs for your patio or garden.
Raised Garden Beds: Its natural resistance to decay makes it ideal for constructing raised garden beds.
Birdhouses and Feeders: Arborvitae is a safe and durable material for birdhouses and feeders.
Trim and Molding: Its lightweight nature makes it easy to work with for trim and molding.
Interior Paneling: Arborvitae can be used for interior paneling, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Shims: Due to it’s straight grain, it can be easily split into shims.
Beekeeping: Arborvitae makes excellent bee hives.

Arborvitae Case Study: A Sustainable Shed

A local carpenter, Sarah Miller, recently built a small shed using Arborvitae lumber harvested from her own property. She chose Arborvitae for its rot resistance and sustainability.

“I wanted to build a shed that would last for years without requiring a lot of maintenance,” Sarah explained. “Arborvitae was the perfect choice. It’s naturally resistant to decay, and it’s a sustainable resource.”

Sarah’s shed is a testament to the versatility and durability of Arborvitae lumber.

Final Thoughts: Embrace the Underdog

Arborvitae might not be the most glamorous wood, but it’s a valuable resource that deserves more attention. With the right techniques and a little patience, you can transform this humble tree into beautiful and durable lumber for a wide range of projects.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and explore the possibilities. You might be surprised at what you can create with Arborvitae.

Actionable Steps:

Assess your Arborvitae trees: Determine if they are suitable for milling.
Sharpen your chainsaw: Ensure your saw is in top condition.
Practice felling techniques: Learn how to fell trees safely and efficiently.
Experiment with milling: Try chainsaw milling or hire a professional with a portable sawmill.
Dry your lumber properly: Invest time in air-drying or kiln-drying.
Start a project: Build a small project using Arborvitae lumber to gain experience.

So, the next time you see an Arborvitae tree, don’t just think of it as a hedge. Think of it as a potential source of beautiful and durable lumber.

Now, go forth and create!