Stihl MS250 Chain Size Guide (5 Expert Tips For Firewood Cutting)

Let’s dive into the world of chainsaw operation, specifically focusing on the Stihl MS250 and how to optimize it for firewood cutting. This isn’t just about picking a chain; it’s about understanding the interplay between your saw, the wood, and your own safety and efficiency. I’ve spent years felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood, and I’ve learned that a properly equipped Stihl MS250 can be a real workhorse. What makes this guide unique is that it’s not just a list of specs; it’s a collection of practical tips and insights gleaned from real-world experience, designed to help you cut firewood safer, faster, and with less effort.

Stihl MS250 Chain Size Guide (5 Expert Tips for Firewood Cutting)

The Stihl MS250 is a popular choice for homeowners and occasional users due to its balance of power, weight, and price. However, to truly maximize its potential for firewood cutting, you need to select the right chain and understand how to maintain it. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from understanding chain types to mastering essential cutting techniques.

1. Understanding Chain Types and Sizes for Your Stihl MS250

Selecting the right chain for your Stihl MS250 is crucial for efficient and safe firewood cutting. Different chain types are designed for different purposes, and using the wrong one can lead to poor performance, increased wear and tear on your saw, and even dangerous kickback situations.

1.1 Key Chain Terminology

Before we dive into specific chain recommendations, let’s define some key terms:

Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches for the MS250 are 0.325″ and 3/8″ Low Profile.
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links, which fit into the guide bar groove. The MS250 typically uses a 0.050″ gauge.
Drive Links: The number of links that fit into the guide bar groove. This number varies depending on the bar length.
Cutter Type: The shape of the cutting teeth. Common types include chisel, semi-chisel, and low-profile.
Kickback: The sudden and dangerous upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused by the tip of the bar contacting an object.

1.2 Recommended Chain Types for the Stihl MS250

For firewood cutting, I generally recommend the following chain types for the MS250:

Stihl RSC (Rapid Super Comfort) or RM (Rapid Micro): These are high-performance chains with chisel or semi-chisel cutters. They offer fast cutting speeds and are ideal for experienced users who prioritize efficiency. The RSC chain, with its full chisel cutters, requires more careful sharpening and is better suited for clean wood, while the RM chain, with its semi-chisel cutters, is more forgiving and can handle slightly dirtier wood.
Stihl RMC3 (Rapid Micro Comfort 3): This is a low-vibration chain with semi-chisel cutters. It’s a good option for users who want a balance of performance and comfort. The RMC3 chain is also more tolerant of less-than-perfect sharpening.
Stihl Picco Micro 3 (PM3): This is a low-profile chain designed for smaller saws like the MS250. It offers good cutting performance with reduced kickback risk. It’s a great choice for beginners or users who prioritize safety.

1.3 Determining the Correct Chain Size for Your MS250

To determine the correct chain size, you need to know the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links required for your specific guide bar. This information is usually stamped on the guide bar itself.

Check the Guide Bar: Look for markings on the base of the guide bar near where it connects to the saw body. You should find the pitch and gauge listed. For example, you might see “3/8 .050” or “.325 .050”.
Count the Drive Links: If the guide bar markings are worn or illegible, you can count the number of drive links on your old chain. This is the most accurate way to ensure you get the correct replacement.
Consult the Stihl Owner’s Manual: Your owner’s manual will provide a list of compatible chain sizes for different guide bar lengths.
Use a Chain Fit Guide: Many online retailers and chainsaw shops offer chain fit guides that allow you to input your saw model and guide bar length to find the correct chain size.

For example, if your MS250 has a 16-inch guide bar, you might need a chain with a 0.325″ pitch, 0.050″ gauge, and 62 drive links.

1.4 My Experience with Chain Selection

I once made the mistake of using a chain with the wrong pitch on my MS250. I thought I could get away with it because the gauge was correct, but the saw vibrated excessively and the chain kept coming loose. It was a frustrating and potentially dangerous experience. I learned the hard way that it’s crucial to use the correct chain size for your saw and guide bar.

1.5 Data and Original Insights

In my experience, the Stihl RSC chain provides the fastest cutting speeds when working with clean, seasoned hardwoods like oak and maple. However, it’s important to maintain a sharp edge on the chisel cutters. I’ve found that using a quality chainsaw file and following the correct sharpening angles is essential for optimal performance.

For dirtier wood or softer woods like pine, the Stihl RM chain is a better choice. The semi-chisel cutters are more resistant to dulling and can handle a bit more abuse.

2. Mastering Chain Sharpening Techniques

A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient firewood cutting. A dull chain will require more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on your saw.

2.1 Tools for Chain Sharpening

You’ll need the following tools to sharpen your chainsaw chain:

Chainsaw File: A round file with the correct diameter for your chain’s cutter size.
File Guide: A tool that helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
Depth Gauge Tool: A tool for adjusting the depth gauges (rakers) on your chain.
Flat File: A flat file for lowering the depth gauges.
Vise: A vise to hold the chainsaw bar securely while sharpening.
Gloves: To protect your hands.

2.2 Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide

Here’s a step-by-step guide to sharpening your chainsaw chain:

Secure the Guide Bar: Place the guide bar in a vise to hold it securely.
Identify the Correct File Size: Consult your chain manufacturer’s specifications or use a file guide to determine the correct file size for your chain.
Position the File: Place the file in the cutter at the correct angle, typically around 30 degrees. Use a file guide to help you maintain the correct angle.
File the Cutter: Push the file across the cutter in a smooth, even stroke. File from the inside of the cutter towards the outside.
Count the Strokes: File each cutter the same number of strokes to ensure they are all sharpened evenly.
Sharpen All Cutters: Repeat steps 3-5 for all cutters on the chain.
Adjust the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). If they are too high, use a flat file to lower them to the correct height.
Check Your Work: After sharpening, inspect the chain to ensure that all cutters are sharp and evenly filed.

2.3 Common Sharpening Mistakes to Avoid

Using the Wrong File Size: Using a file that is too large or too small will result in improper sharpening.
Filing at the Wrong Angle: Filing at the wrong angle will create a dull or ineffective cutting edge.
Filing Unevenly: Filing each cutter a different number of strokes will result in an uneven chain that cuts poorly.
Ignoring the Depth Gauges: Failing to adjust the depth gauges will prevent the cutters from biting into the wood properly.

2.4 My Sharpening Routine

I sharpen my chainsaw chain after every few tanks of gas, or whenever I notice that the saw is cutting slower or requiring more force. I use a file guide to ensure that I maintain the correct filing angle, and I always check the depth gauges after sharpening.

I also keep a spare chain on hand so that I can quickly swap out a dull chain in the field. This saves me time and allows me to keep working efficiently.

2.5 Data and Original Insights

I’ve found that using a diamond-coated chainsaw file can significantly improve the sharpness and durability of the cutting edge. These files are more expensive than traditional steel files, but they last longer and provide a superior cutting performance.

I also recommend investing in a quality chainsaw vise. A good vise will hold the guide bar securely and make sharpening much easier.

3. Optimizing Bar and Chain Oiling for Performance

Proper lubrication is essential for the longevity and performance of your chainsaw. Insufficient lubrication can lead to premature wear and tear on the bar and chain, as well as increased friction and heat, which can damage the saw’s engine.

3.1 Understanding Bar and Chain Oil

Bar and chain oil is a specially formulated lubricant designed to reduce friction and dissipate heat between the chain and the guide bar. It’s typically a high-viscosity oil with additives that improve its tackiness and prevent it from being thrown off the chain too quickly.

3.2 Choosing the Right Bar and Chain Oil

Viscosity: Choose an oil with a viscosity appropriate for the ambient temperature. In colder weather, you may need a thinner oil to ensure proper flow. In warmer weather, you may need a thicker oil to prevent it from thinning out too much.
Tackiness: Look for an oil with good tackiness to help it adhere to the chain and bar.
Biodegradability: Consider using a biodegradable bar and chain oil to reduce your environmental impact.
Manufacturer Recommendations: Consult your chainsaw owner’s manual for specific recommendations on bar and chain oil.

3.3 Checking and Filling the Oil Reservoir

Check the Oil Level: Before each use, check the oil level in the reservoir. The oil level should be visible through the sight glass on the saw body.
Fill the Reservoir: If the oil level is low, fill the reservoir with the appropriate bar and chain oil. Be careful not to overfill the reservoir.
Clean the Oil Cap: Before replacing the oil cap, clean it to remove any dirt or debris.

3.4 Adjusting the Oil Flow

Most chainsaws have an adjustable oil flow. You can adjust the oil flow to match the cutting conditions.

Increase the Oil Flow: When cutting hardwoods or in hot weather, you may need to increase the oil flow to ensure adequate lubrication.
Decrease the Oil Flow: When cutting softwoods or in cold weather, you may be able to decrease the oil flow to conserve oil.

3.5 Troubleshooting Oiling Problems

No Oil Flow: If your chainsaw is not oiling properly, check the following:
- Oil Reservoir: Make sure the oil reservoir is full.
- Oil Filter: Check the oil filter and clean it if necessary.
- Oil Pump: Check the oil pump and make sure it is functioning properly.
- Oil Line: Check the oil line for any clogs or leaks.
Excessive Oil Flow: If your chainsaw is oiling excessively, check the following:
- Oil Flow Adjustment: Make sure the oil flow is properly adjusted.
- Oil Pump: Check the oil pump and make sure it is not leaking.

3.6 My Oiling Practices

I always use a high-quality bar and chain oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. I check the oil level before each use and fill the reservoir as needed. I also adjust the oil flow based on the cutting conditions.

I’ve found that using a synthetic bar and chain oil can provide superior lubrication and protection, especially in extreme temperatures.

3.7 Data and Original Insights

In my experience, the optimal oil flow rate for the Stihl MS250 is around 2-3 ml per minute. You can measure the oil flow rate by running the saw at full throttle over a clean surface for one minute and then measuring the amount of oil that is discharged.

I also recommend cleaning the oil filter regularly to prevent clogs and ensure proper oil flow.

4. Essential Firewood Cutting Techniques for Safety and Efficiency

Cutting firewood safely and efficiently requires a combination of proper technique, situational awareness, and respect for the power of the chainsaw.

4.1 Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Before you even start the saw, make sure you’re wearing the appropriate PPE:

Chainsaw Chaps: These protect your legs from accidental contact with the chain.
Steel-Toed Boots: These protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw injuries.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield will protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs will protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Gloves will improve your grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Helmet: A helmet provides head protection from falling branches and other hazards.

4.2 Felling Techniques

Felling a tree is a complex and dangerous task that should only be attempted by experienced users. If you’re not comfortable felling trees, it’s best to hire a professional. However, if you do decide to fell trees yourself, here are some basic techniques:

Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, shape, and lean. Look for any dead or broken branches that could fall during the felling process.
Plan Your Escape Route: Before making any cuts, plan your escape route. You should have a clear path away from the tree in case it falls unexpectedly.
Make the Notch Cut: The notch cut is a V-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. The notch should be cut on the side of the tree that you want it to fall towards.
Make the Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut that is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. The back cut should be made slightly higher than the notch cut.
Leave a Hinge: Leave a small amount of wood (the hinge) between the notch cut and the back cut. The hinge will help to control the fall of the tree.
Push the Tree: Once the back cut is complete, use a felling lever or wedge to push the tree over.

4.3 Bucking Techniques

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, manageable pieces. Here are some basic bucking techniques:

Support the Log: Before bucking a log, make sure it is properly supported to prevent it from rolling or pinching the saw.
Use Proper Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and keep your weight balanced.
Avoid Pinching: Be careful to avoid pinching the saw blade. If the blade starts to bind, stop cutting and use a wedge to open the cut.
Use the Correct Cutting Technique: Use the correct cutting technique for the size and type of wood you are cutting. For smaller logs, you can use a single cut. For larger logs, you may need to use a series of cuts.

4.4 Splitting Techniques

Splitting firewood is the process of dividing logs into smaller pieces that are suitable for burning in a fireplace or wood stove. Here are some basic splitting techniques:

Use a Splitting Maul or Axe: A splitting maul or axe is a heavy, wedge-shaped tool that is designed for splitting wood.
Position the Log: Place the log on a solid surface, such as a chopping block.
Swing with Force: Swing the splitting maul or axe with force and aim for the center of the log.
Use Wedges: If the log is difficult to split, use wedges to help you separate the pieces.
Consider a Log Splitter: For large quantities of firewood, consider using a hydraulic log splitter.

4.5 My Safety Rules

I have a few safety rules that I always follow when cutting firewood:

Never Cut Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an accident.
Stay Sober: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards.
Respect the Saw: Always respect the power of the chainsaw and use it responsibly.

4.6 Data and Original Insights

I’ve found that using a chainsaw with a chain brake can significantly reduce the risk of kickback injuries. A chain brake is a safety device that stops the chain from rotating if the saw kicks back.

I also recommend using a log lifter to raise logs off the ground before bucking them. This will reduce the risk of pinching the saw blade and make the job easier on your back.

5. Stihl MS250 Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your Stihl MS250 running smoothly and safely. Neglecting maintenance can lead to poor performance, increased wear and tear, and even costly repairs.

5.1 Daily Maintenance

Check the Chain Tension: Before each use, check the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the guide bar but should still be able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
Check the Oil Level: Check the oil level in the reservoir and fill as needed.
Check the Fuel Level: Check the fuel level in the tank and fill as needed.
Clean the Air Filter: Clean the air filter to remove any dirt or debris.
Inspect the Saw: Inspect the saw for any loose parts or damage.

5.2 Weekly Maintenance

Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain after every few uses, or whenever you notice that the saw is cutting slower or requiring more force.
Clean the Guide Bar: Clean the guide bar to remove any dirt or debris.
Grease the Sprocket: Grease the sprocket to keep it lubricated.
Inspect the Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug and clean or replace it if necessary.

5.3 Monthly Maintenance

Clean the Cylinder Fins: Clean the cylinder fins to remove any dirt or debris.
Inspect the Fuel Filter: Inspect the fuel filter and clean or replace it if necessary.
Inspect the Recoil Starter: Inspect the recoil starter and lubricate it if necessary.

5.4 Troubleshooting Common Problems

Saw Won’t Start: If your saw won’t start, check the following:
- Fuel: Make sure there is fuel in the tank.
- Spark Plug: Check the spark plug and make sure it is clean and properly gapped.
- Air Filter: Check the air filter and make sure it is clean.
- Fuel Filter: Check the fuel filter and make sure it is clean.
- Ignition Switch: Make sure the ignition switch is in the “on” position.
Saw Runs Poorly: If your saw runs poorly, check the following:
- Air Filter: Check the air filter and make sure it is clean.
- Spark Plug: Check the spark plug and make sure it is clean and properly gapped.
- Fuel Filter: Check the fuel filter and make sure it is clean.
- Carburetor: Adjust the carburetor if necessary.
Chain Won’t Oil: If your chain won’t oil, check the following:
- Oil Reservoir: Make sure the oil reservoir is full.
- Oil Filter: Check the oil filter and clean it if necessary.
- Oil Pump: Check the oil pump and make sure it is functioning properly.
- Oil Line: Check the oil line for any clogs or leaks.

5.5 My Maintenance Schedule

I follow a strict maintenance schedule to keep my Stihl MS250 in top condition. I perform daily maintenance before each use, weekly maintenance every week, and monthly maintenance every month.

I also take my saw to a qualified service technician for a tune-up once a year.

5.6 Data and Original Insights

I’ve found that using a fuel stabilizer in the fuel can help to prevent problems caused by ethanol-blended gasoline. Ethanol can absorb water, which can lead to corrosion and other problems in the fuel system.

I also recommend using a high-quality two-stroke oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. This will help to lubricate the engine and prevent wear and tear.

By following these expert tips, you can optimize your Stihl MS250 for efficient and safe firewood cutting. Remember to always prioritize safety and to maintain your saw properly. With the right chain, sharpening techniques, and cutting techniques, you can make quick work of even the toughest firewood.

Now, with this knowledge in hand, I encourage you to put these tips into practice. Start with a simple task, like bucking small logs, and gradually work your way up to more challenging projects. Remember to always prioritize safety and to take your time. The more you practice, the more confident and efficient you will become. Good luck, and happy cutting!