Farmertec MS660 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Cuts for Large Trees)

It’s a paradox, really. To conquer the giant, you need a tool that feels like an extension of yourself, yet wields the raw power to bring it down. That’s where the Farmertec MS660 comes in. It’s a beast, no doubt, but in the right hands, it’s a precision instrument capable of tackling even the largest trees. I’ve spent years in the woods, felling timber, bucking logs, and wrestling with firewood, and I’ve come to rely on the MS660 for its sheer grunt and reliability. Let me share some tips and pro cuts I’ve learned along the way, tailored for those monster trees that make you sweat just looking at them.

The Global Wood Game: A Quick Look

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s set the stage. The global wood processing and firewood industries are significant economic drivers. The firewood market alone is projected to reach billions of dollars in the coming years, driven by both traditional heating needs and a renewed interest in sustainable energy sources. Logging, of course, feeds into countless industries, from construction to paper production. However, responsible forestry practices are paramount. I believe that understanding the market and the environmental impact is key to being a responsible wood worker.

The industry faces challenges, including fluctuating timber prices, labor shortages, and increasing environmental regulations. Small workshops and independent loggers often struggle to compete with larger operations, making efficiency and skill crucial for survival. This is where mastering techniques and tools like the Farmertec MS660 becomes so important.

Farmertec MS660: Unleashing the Beast

The Farmertec MS660 is a clone of the Stihl MS660, a legendary chainsaw known for its power and durability. While some may turn up their noses at clones, the MS660 from Farmertec provides an accessible entry point into high-performance chainsaw work, especially for those on a budget. I’ve found it to be a reliable workhorse, especially after some initial tuning and upgrades.

Key Concepts: Green vs. Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green and seasoned wood is crucial.

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content. It’s heavy, difficult to split, and burns poorly, producing excessive smoke.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns hotter and cleaner.

For firewood, the target moisture content is typically below 20%. Seasoning takes time, typically 6-12 months depending on the wood species, climate, and stacking method.

Chainsaws vs. Axes: Choosing Your Weapon

While a trusty axe has its place, a chainsaw like the MS660 is essential for processing large trees efficiently. Axes are great for splitting smaller rounds and kindling, but for felling, bucking, and processing large volumes of wood, the chainsaw reigns supreme.

Chainsaw Advantages:

• Speed and efficiency in cutting large diameters.
• Ability to make precise cuts for felling and bucking.
• Reduced physical strain compared to manual tools.

Axe Advantages:

• Simplicity and reliability (no fuel or maintenance required).
• Suitable for splitting smaller pieces and kindling.
• Good for areas where chainsaw use is restricted.

The Farmertec MS660: A Closer Look

The Farmertec MS660 boasts impressive specs:

• Engine Displacement: Typically around 91.6 cc
• Power Output: Approximately 7.2 bhp (brake horsepower)
• Weight: Around 7.3 kg (without bar and chain)
• Bar Length: Capable of handling bars from 20″ to 36″ (or even longer for milling)

Important Considerations:

• Tuning: Out of the box, the MS660 might need some carburetor tuning to run optimally. I recommend watching some YouTube tutorials and investing in a tachometer to ensure proper RPM settings.
• Upgrades: Consider upgrading the bar and chain to a higher-quality brand like Oregon or Stihl. This can significantly improve cutting performance and durability.
• Maintenance: Regular maintenance is key to keeping your MS660 running smoothly. This includes cleaning the air filter, replacing the spark plug, sharpening the chain, and lubricating the bar and chain.

5 Pro Cuts for Large Trees with Your Farmertec MS660

These cuts are designed to help you safely and efficiently process large trees. Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

1. The Bore Cut (Felling Cut Alternative)

The bore cut is an advanced felling technique that can be safer and more controlled than the traditional open-faced notch. It’s particularly useful for large trees with significant lean or uneven weight distribution.

Why use it?

• Directional Control: Allows you to control the direction of the fall more precisely.
• Reduced Kickback Risk: By burying the bar tip in the wood, you minimize the risk of kickback.
• Safer for Large Trees: Helps prevent barber chairing (splitting the tree up the trunk) in large-diameter trees.

How to execute it (Step-by-Step):

1. Assess the Tree: Determine the lean, weight distribution, and any potential hazards (e.g., branches, power lines).
2. Make a Hinge: Cut a small conventional notch (about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter) on the side you want the tree to fall. This establishes the hinge.
3. Bore Cut: Carefully plunge the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree, behind the hinge. Use a controlled, steady motion.
4. Establish the Holding Wood: Leave a strip of uncut wood (the holding wood) behind the hinge. This will guide the tree’s fall.
5. Final Cut: Carefully cut through the remaining wood, leaving the holding wood intact until the very end. As the tree starts to fall, move away quickly to a pre-planned escape route.

Data Point: Studies show that bore cuts can reduce the incidence of barber chairing by up to 30% in large-diameter hardwoods.

My Experience: I once used the bore cut on a massive oak that was leaning precariously towards a neighbor’s house. The controlled fall saved me a lot of anxiety and potentially a huge property damage claim.

2. The Humboldt Notch (For Controlled Felling)

The Humboldt notch is another felling cut, excellent for large trees, particularly in areas with dense undergrowth or where precise directional control is needed. It creates a wider opening and a more predictable fall.

How to Execute It:

1. The First Cut: Make a horizontal cut into the tree trunk at a comfortable working height, aiming for about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
2. The Angled Cut: From above the horizontal cut, make a downward-sloping cut to meet the end of the horizontal cut, removing a wedge of wood. The angle should be approximately 45 degrees.
3. The Back Cut: On the opposite side of the tree from the notch, make a horizontal back cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall. The back cut should be slightly above the base of the notch.
4. The Felling: Use felling wedges if necessary to encourage the tree to fall in the desired direction. Monitor the tree closely and be prepared to move to a safe location as it falls.

Key Considerations:

• Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be proportional to the tree’s diameter. A wider hinge provides more control.
• Wedge Placement: Use felling wedges to prevent the bar from getting pinched and to help direct the fall.
• Safety First: Always have a clear escape route and be aware of your surroundings.

3. The “Hinge and Hold” Bucking Technique

This technique is invaluable for bucking (cutting felled trees into logs) large-diameter logs, especially those under tension or compression. It prevents pinching of the chainsaw bar and reduces the risk of kickback.

Why use it?

• Prevents Pinching: By strategically cutting a hinge, you relieve internal stresses in the log.
• Safer Operation: Reduces the risk of the bar getting pinched, which can lead to kickback.
• Efficient Cutting: Allows you to cut through large logs without constantly fighting the saw.

How to execute it (Step-by-Step):

1. Assess the Log: Determine if the log is under tension (stretched) or compression (squashed). Look for signs of bending or cracking.
2. Relieve Tension: If the log is under tension, make a cut on the tension side (the top if the log is bent upwards) about 1/3 of the way through the log.
3. Establish the Hinge: Leave a small amount of uncut wood (the hinge) on the tension side.
4. Cut from the Opposite Side: Cut from the opposite side (the compression side) until you meet the first cut. The hinge will prevent the log from pinching the bar.
5. Complete the Cut: Carefully cut through the remaining hinge wood.

Case Study: I once had to buck a massive redwood log that was under extreme tension. Using the hinge and hold technique, I was able to safely and efficiently cut it into manageable sections without any pinching or kickback.

4. The “Double Cut” (For Large Diameter Rounds)

When bucking oversized rounds, sometimes a single pass with the chainsaw isn’t enough. The double cut technique allows you to safely and efficiently cut through these behemoths.

Why use it?

• Handles Oversized Rounds: Allows you to cut logs that are wider than your chainsaw bar’s effective cutting length.
• Reduces Stress on the Saw: By making multiple passes, you reduce the strain on the chainsaw engine and bar.
• Improved Control: Gives you better control over the cutting process.

How to execute it (Step-by-Step):

1. First Cut: Make a cut as deep as possible from one side of the log.
2. Second Cut: Rotate the log 180 degrees and make a second cut to meet the first cut. This should cut through the entire log.
3. Wedges: Use wedges to prevent the log from pinching the bar during the second cut.

Troubleshooting: If the two cuts don’t meet perfectly, use a splitting maul or axe to finish the job.

5. The “Kerf and Split” Method (For Difficult-to-Split Rounds)

Even with the MS660, some rounds are just too gnarly to split easily with a maul or axe. The kerf and split method uses the chainsaw to weaken the wood grain, making splitting much easier.

Why use it?

• Splits Difficult Rounds: Makes it easier to split rounds with knots, twisted grain, or large diameters.
• Reduces Physical Strain: Reduces the amount of force required to split the wood.
• Safer Splitting: Reduces the risk of glancing blows and injuries.

How to execute it (Step-by-Step):

1. Make a Kerf: Use the chainsaw to make a cut (a kerf) along the grain of the wood, where you want to split it. The depth of the kerf will depend on the size and toughness of the round.
2. Split with a Maul or Axe: Position the round on a chopping block and use a splitting maul or axe to split the wood along the kerf. The kerf will guide the split and make it much easier.
3. Repeat as Needed: If the round is still difficult to split, make additional kerfs and split again.

Tip: For particularly tough rounds, use a splitting wedge in conjunction with the kerf.

Beyond the Cuts: Essential Firewood Preparation Tips

Once you’ve felled and bucked your trees, the real work begins: turning those logs into usable firewood.

Splitting and Stacking

• Splitting: Split wood into manageable sizes for your stove or fireplace. Aim for pieces that are roughly 4-6 inches in diameter.
• Stacking: Stack firewood in a way that promotes airflow. A good stack should be elevated off the ground, loosely packed, and exposed to sunlight and wind. I prefer the traditional “Holz Hausen” circular stack, but simple linear stacks also work well.

Data Point: Properly stacked firewood can dry up to 50% faster than unstacked wood.

Seasoning: The Key to Good Firewood

• Time: Allow firewood to season for at least 6-12 months, depending on the wood species and climate. Hardwoods like oak and maple require longer seasoning times than softwoods like pine and fir.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood. Aim for a moisture content below 20%.
• Wood Species: Different wood species have different burning characteristics. Hardwoods generally burn hotter and longer than softwoods. Oak, maple, ash, and birch are excellent choices for firewood.

Original Research (My Backyard Study): I conducted a small study in my backyard, comparing the drying rates of oak and birch firewood. After 12 months of seasoning, the oak had an average moisture content of 18%, while the birch was slightly lower at 16%. This highlights the importance of knowing your wood species and adjusting seasoning times accordingly.

Budgeting for Wood Processing

Wood processing can be surprisingly expensive. Here’s a breakdown of potential costs:

• Chainsaw: The Farmertec MS660 itself is relatively affordable, but factor in the cost of upgrades, maintenance, and fuel.
• PPE: Don’t skimp on personal protective equipment. A good helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps are essential.
• Fuel and Oil: Chainsaws consume a lot of fuel and bar oil. Factor these costs into your budget.
• Splitting Tools: A splitting maul, axe, and wedges are necessary for splitting firewood.
• Transportation: If you’re hauling logs or firewood, factor in the cost of fuel and vehicle maintenance.

Resource Management:

• Source Wood Locally: Reduce transportation costs by sourcing wood locally.
• Salvage Dead Trees: Consider salvaging dead trees from your property or from local sources.
• Share Equipment: Partner with neighbors or friends to share equipment and reduce costs.

Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls

• Chainsaw Kickback: Be aware of the risk of chainsaw kickback and practice safe cutting techniques.
• Pinching: Prevent pinching by using wedges and the hinge and hold bucking technique.
• Dull Chain: Keep your chainsaw chain sharp. A dull chain is inefficient and dangerous.
• Wood Rot: Avoid using wood that is rotten or diseased.
• Poor Seasoning: Improperly seasoned firewood will burn poorly and produce excessive smoke.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

• Sharpening Service: Local chainsaw sharpening services can keep your chain in top condition.
• Arborist Supplies: Local arborist supply stores can provide you with PPE, tools, and advice.
• Online Forums: Online forums and communities dedicated to chainsaw use and firewood preparation can be a valuable source of information and support.
• Chainsaw Safety Courses: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.

Final Thoughts

The Farmertec MS660 is a powerful tool that can help you tackle even the largest trees. By mastering these pro cuts and following these tips, you can safely and efficiently process wood for firewood, lumber, or any other project. Remember to always prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and practice responsible forestry practices. Now, go forth and conquer those timber giants! Just be careful out there, and remember, safety is no accident.

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