Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear Repair (Restoration Tips & Tricks)

Alright, let’s dive into the heart of wood-burning season and get that classic Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear roaring again!

Reviving a Legend: Your Guide to Restoring a Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear

Before we get started, let’s acknowledge something crucial: Wood stoves, especially classics like the Grandma Bear, have very specific heating profiles. Where I live, in the foothills of the Appalachians, we deal with long, cold winters that demand consistent heat. But if you’re in a milder climate, like the Pacific Northwest, your needs – and the way you operate your stove – will be different. So, tailor everything I’m about to share to your situation.

Current Landscape: The Enduring Appeal of Wood Heat

Even with advancements in heating technology, wood stoves continue to hold a special place in many homes. Globally, the firewood industry is estimated to be worth billions of dollars annually, with a significant portion attributed to residential heating. In regions with readily available wood resources, wood stoves offer an economical and often sustainable heating solution. However, the efficiency and environmental impact of wood stoves are crucial considerations. Older models, like the Grandma Bear, can be less efficient and produce more emissions compared to modern, EPA-certified stoves. Restoring a Grandma Bear isn’t just about nostalgia; it’s about ensuring it operates safely and efficiently.

My Wood-Fired Journey: A Personal Connection

I’ve always had a soft spot for wood stoves. Growing up, our family relied on a massive cast iron stove to heat our farmhouse. I remember the comforting crackle of the fire, the smell of burning oak, and the way the stove radiated heat long after the embers died down. It wasn’t just a source of warmth; it was the heart of our home. Now, years later, I still use wood as a primary heating source, and I’ve developed a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and history behind these stoves.

What we will cover:

  • Understanding the Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear
  • Safety First: Assessing the Situation
  • Gathering Your Supplies
  • Disassembly and Cleaning
  • Inspection and Component Replacement
  • Refurbishing the Stove Body
  • Reassembly
  • Testing and Break-In
  • Ongoing Maintenance and Operation
  • Troubleshooting Common Problems
  • Cost Considerations and Budgeting
  • Additional Resources

Understanding the Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear

The Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear is an icon. Designed by Bob Fisher in the 1970s, these stoves were known for their simple, rugged construction and their ability to pump out a lot of heat. They were built to last, which is why so many are still in use today. However, age takes its toll. These stoves are not EPA-certified, meaning they lack the advanced combustion technology of modern stoves. While they can provide ample heat, they also tend to burn wood less efficiently and produce more smoke.

Key Features of the Grandma Bear:

  • Cast Iron Construction: The heavy cast iron body provides excellent heat retention and durability.
  • Simple Design: The straightforward design makes them relatively easy to repair and maintain.
  • Large Firebox: The generous firebox can accommodate large logs, reducing the frequency of reloading.
  • Single Air Control: A simple air control damper regulates the amount of air entering the firebox, influencing the burn rate.

Why Restore a Grandma Bear?

  • Nostalgia and History: These stoves are a piece of history and can add a unique charm to your home.
  • Cost-Effectiveness: Restoring an old stove can be more affordable than purchasing a new one (initially, at least).
  • Off-Grid Heating: In areas with readily available wood, a wood stove provides a reliable off-grid heating option.

The Trade-offs:

  • Efficiency: Older stoves are less efficient than modern, EPA-certified models. Expect to burn more wood.
  • Emissions: Older stoves produce more smoke and pollutants.
  • Maintenance: Older stoves require more frequent maintenance and repairs.
  • Safety: Ensure your restoration meets all local safety codes and regulations.

Safety First: Assessing the Situation

Before you even think about touching that stove, safety is paramount. A wood stove is a potential fire hazard, and a poorly maintained or improperly installed stove can be deadly.

1. Initial Inspection:

  • Structural Integrity: Carefully inspect the stove for cracks, warps, or other signs of damage. Pay close attention to the seams and joints. Any significant structural damage means the stove is unsafe to use and should not be restored.
  • Rust and Corrosion: Check for rust and corrosion, especially in areas exposed to moisture. Surface rust can be treated, but deep corrosion can weaken the stove’s structure.
  • Door and Latch: Ensure the door closes tightly and the latch mechanism is in good working order. A loose door can allow uncontrolled air intake, leading to overheating.
  • Air Control: Verify that the air control damper moves freely and functions properly.
  • Flue Connection: Inspect the flue collar and the connection to the chimney. Ensure there are no gaps or leaks.
  • Clearances: Check the clearances around the stove. Wood stoves require specific clearances from combustible materials (walls, furniture, etc.). Consult your local building codes for the required clearances.
  • Chimney Condition: The chimney is just as important as the stove itself. Have the chimney professionally inspected and cleaned. A dirty or damaged chimney can cause chimney fires.

2. Safety Gear:

  • Gloves: Wear heavy-duty work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and hot surfaces.
  • Eye Protection: Use safety glasses or goggles to prevent debris from entering your eyes.
  • Dust Mask: Wear a dust mask or respirator to protect yourself from dust, rust, and other particles.
  • Hearing Protection: If you’re using power tools, wear earplugs or earmuffs.
  • Fire Extinguisher: Keep a fire extinguisher nearby in case of emergencies.

3. Local Codes and Regulations:

  • Permits: Check with your local building department to see if you need a permit to install or restore a wood stove.
  • Inspections: Schedule an inspection after the restoration is complete to ensure the stove meets all safety requirements.
  • Clearances: Understand the required clearances from combustible materials.

4. When to Call a Professional:

Tools:

  • Wrenches and Sockets: A set of wrenches and sockets in various sizes will be needed to disassemble and reassemble the stove.
  • Screwdrivers: A set of screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead) will be necessary for removing screws and bolts.
  • Wire Brush: A wire brush is essential for removing rust and debris from the stove’s surface.
  • Scraper: A scraper will help remove stubborn rust and paint.
  • Sandpaper: Various grits of sandpaper will be needed for smoothing the stove’s surface.
  • Power Drill: A power drill with wire brush and sanding attachments can speed up the cleaning process.
  • Angle Grinder (Optional): An angle grinder with a wire wheel or grinding disc can be used for removing heavy rust and paint, but use it with caution.
  • Hammer: A hammer may be needed to loosen stuck bolts or parts.
  • Pliers: Pliers will be useful for gripping and manipulating small parts.
  • Measuring Tape: A measuring tape will be needed to measure clearances and dimensions.
  • Level: A level is essential for ensuring the stove is properly installed.
  • Shop Vacuum: A shop vacuum will help clean up dust and debris.
  • Penetrating Oil: Penetrating oil can help loosen rusted bolts and screws.
  • Putty Knife: For applying stove cement.

Materials:

  • Stove Paint: High-temperature stove paint is specifically designed for wood stoves. Choose a color that matches the original finish or complements your decor.
  • Stove Cement: Stove cement is used to seal joints and cracks in the stove.
  • Gasket Material: Gasket material is used to seal the door and other openings.
  • Firebrick (If Needed): Replace any cracked or damaged firebricks.
  • Baffle Board (If Needed): Replace a damaged baffle board.
  • Replacement Parts: Order any necessary replacement parts, such as door handles, air controls, or grates.
  • Cleaning Supplies: Use a degreaser and other cleaning supplies to remove dirt and grime.
  • Rags: Have plenty of rags on hand for cleaning and wiping.
  • Safety Glasses, Gloves, and Dust Mask: As mentioned earlier, these are essential for safety.

Budgeting for Supplies:

  • Stove Paint: $20-$50 per can
  • Stove Cement: $10-$20 per tube
  • Gasket Material: $10-$30 per roll
  • Firebrick: $5-$10 per brick
  • Baffle Board: $50-$100
  • Replacement Parts: Varies depending on the part
  • Cleaning Supplies: $10-$20
  • Tools: Varies depending on what you already own

Disassembly and Cleaning

Now comes the fun part – taking the stove apart!

1. Document Everything:

  • Take photos of the stove from different angles before you start disassembling it. This will help you remember how everything goes back together.
  • Create a diagram or sketch of the stove, labeling each part.
  • Keep a notebook to record the order of disassembly and any notes about how things fit together.
  • Store all the parts in labeled containers to prevent confusion.

2. Disassembly Steps:

  • Remove the Door: Typically, the door is held in place by hinges and pins. Carefully remove the pins to detach the door.
  • Remove the Baffle Board: The baffle board is usually located at the top of the firebox. Remove it carefully, as it may be fragile.
  • Remove the Firebricks: The firebricks are usually loose and can be easily removed.
  • Remove the Air Control: The air control is typically held in place by screws or bolts. Remove them to detach the air control.
  • Remove the Flue Collar: The flue collar is the connection point for the chimney. Remove the screws or bolts holding it in place.
  • Separate the Stove Body (If Possible): Some Grandma Bear stoves have a two-piece body that can be separated. If yours does, carefully separate the two halves.

3. Cleaning Procedures:

  • Remove Loose Debris: Use a wire brush and scraper to remove loose rust, soot, and debris from all the parts.
  • Degrease: Use a degreaser to remove any grease or oil from the stove’s surface. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Wire Brush: Use a wire brush attachment on a power drill to remove stubborn rust and paint. Be careful not to damage the metal.
  • Sandblast (Optional): Sandblasting is the most effective way to remove rust and paint, but it requires specialized equipment and should be done in a well-ventilated area.
  • Wash: Wash all the parts with soap and water to remove any remaining debris.
  • Dry: Thoroughly dry all the parts before proceeding to the next step.

A Word of Caution:

  • Be careful when handling cast iron parts, as they can be heavy and brittle.
  • Wear safety glasses and a dust mask to protect yourself from debris.
  • Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling dust and fumes.

Inspection and Component Replacement

Once the stove is disassembled and cleaned, it’s time to inspect each component for damage and determine what needs to be replaced.

1. Inspect the Stove Body:

  • Cracks: Carefully inspect the stove body for cracks. Even small cracks can weaken the stove and make it unsafe to use. If you find any cracks, consult a professional welder to see if they can be repaired.
  • Warping: Check the stove body for warping. Warping can cause the door to fit poorly and affect the stove’s efficiency.
  • Rust and Corrosion: Assess the extent of rust and corrosion. Surface rust can be treated, but deep corrosion can compromise the stove’s structural integrity.

2. Inspect the Door:

  • Cracks: Check the door for cracks.
  • Warping: Check the door for warping.
  • Latch Mechanism: Ensure the latch mechanism is in good working order. The door should close tightly and securely.
  • Glass (If Applicable): Inspect the glass for cracks or damage. Replace the glass if necessary.

3. Inspect the Firebricks:

  • Cracks: Replace any cracked or damaged firebricks. Firebricks protect the stove body from the intense heat of the fire.
  • Missing Firebricks: Replace any missing firebricks.

4. Inspect the Baffle Board:

  • Cracks: Check the baffle board for cracks. The baffle board helps to direct the flow of hot gases and improve the stove’s efficiency.
  • Damage: Replace the baffle board if it’s damaged or deteriorated.

5. Inspect the Air Control:

  • Movement: Ensure the air control damper moves freely and functions properly.
  • Damage: Check the air control for damage or wear.

6. Inspect the Flue Collar:

  • Cracks: Check the flue collar for cracks.
  • Corrosion: Check the flue collar for corrosion.

7. Replacement Parts:

  • Door Handle: Replace a broken or damaged door handle.
  • Air Control: Replace a faulty air control.
  • Gaskets: Replace worn or damaged gaskets.
  • Firebricks: Replace cracked or missing firebricks.
  • Baffle Board: Replace a damaged baffle board.
  • Flue Collar: Replace a damaged flue collar.

Finding Replacement Parts:

  • Local Stove Shops: Check with local stove shops for replacement parts.
  • Online Retailers: Many online retailers specialize in wood stove parts.
  • Manufacturer: Contact the manufacturer (if possible) for replacement parts.
  • Salvage Yards: Check salvage yards for used parts.

Cost of Replacement Parts:

  • Door Handle: $20-$50
  • Air Control: $30-$70
  • Gaskets: $10-$30 per roll
  • Firebricks: $5-$10 per brick
  • Baffle Board: $50-$100
  • Flue Collar: $30-$70

Refurbishing the Stove Body

Now that you’ve inspected the stove and gathered your supplies, it’s time to refurbish the stove body.

1. Remove Rust:

  • Wire Brush: Use a wire brush to remove surface rust.
  • Scraper: Use a scraper to remove stubborn rust.
  • Power Drill with Wire Brush Attachment: Use a power drill with a wire brush attachment to remove heavy rust.
  • Angle Grinder with Wire Wheel: Use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to remove heavy rust (use with caution).
  • Sandblasting: Sandblasting is the most effective way to remove rust, but it requires specialized equipment.

2. Repair Cracks (If Necessary):

  • Welding: Small cracks can be repaired by welding. Consult a professional welder for this task.
  • Stove Cement: Minor cracks can be filled with stove cement.

3. Smooth the Surface:

  • Sandpaper: Use sandpaper to smooth the stove’s surface. Start with a coarse grit and gradually move to a finer grit.
  • Sanding Block: Use a sanding block to ensure a smooth, even surface.

4. Clean the Surface:

  • Wipe Down: Wipe down the stove’s surface with a clean rag to remove any dust or debris.
  • Degrease: Use a degreaser to remove any grease or oil from the stove’s surface.

5. Paint the Stove:

  • Choose the Right Paint: Use high-temperature stove paint specifically designed for wood stoves.
  • Prepare the Paint: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for preparing the paint.
  • Apply the Paint: Apply the paint in thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next coat.
  • Cure the Paint: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for curing the paint. Curing the paint helps it to harden and adhere to the stove’s surface.

Painting Tips:

  • Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area.
  • Masking: Mask off any areas you don’t want to paint.
  • Multiple Coats: Apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.
  • Drying Time: Allow the paint to dry completely between coats.
  • Curing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for curing the paint.

Reassembly

Now for the satisfying part – putting everything back together! Refer to the photos, diagrams, and notes you took during disassembly.

1. Install the Flue Collar:

  • Attach the flue collar to the stove body using screws or bolts.
  • Ensure the flue collar is securely attached and properly aligned.

2. Install the Air Control:

  • Attach the air control to the stove body using screws or bolts.
  • Ensure the air control damper moves freely and functions properly.

3. Install the Firebricks:

  • Place the firebricks inside the firebox.
  • Ensure the firebricks are properly positioned and fit snugly.

4. Install the Baffle Board:

  • Place the baffle board at the top of the firebox.
  • Ensure the baffle board is properly positioned and securely attached.

5. Install the Door:

  • Attach the door to the stove body using hinges and pins.
  • Ensure the door closes tightly and the latch mechanism is in good working order.
  • Install new gasket material around the door opening to ensure a tight seal.

6. Seal the Joints:

  • Apply stove cement to any joints or cracks in the stove body.
  • Smooth the stove cement with a putty knife.
  • Allow the stove cement to dry completely before using the stove.

Reassembly Tips:

  • Refer to your photos, diagrams, and notes.
  • Take your time and be careful not to damage any parts.
  • Use penetrating oil to loosen any stuck bolts or screws.
  • Tighten all bolts and screws securely.
  • Ensure all parts are properly aligned.

Testing and Break-In

Before you start burning wood in your restored Grandma Bear, it’s important to test it and break it in properly.

1. Initial Test:

  • Visual Inspection: Carefully inspect the stove for any leaks or gaps.
  • Smoke Test: Light a small fire in the stove and observe the smoke. The smoke should flow up the chimney and not leak into the room.
  • Carbon Monoxide Detector: Install a carbon monoxide detector in the room with the stove.

2. Break-In Period:

  • Small Fires: Start with small fires and gradually increase the size of the fires over several days.
  • Low Temperatures: Avoid burning the stove at high temperatures during the break-in period.
  • Curing the Paint: The break-in period allows the stove paint to cure properly.

3. Monitoring:

  • Temperature: Monitor the stove’s temperature to ensure it’s not overheating.
  • Smoke: Observe the smoke coming from the chimney. Excessive smoke indicates incomplete combustion.
  • Creosote: Check the chimney for creosote buildup. Creosote is a flammable substance that can cause chimney fires.

Break-In Tips:

  • Ventilation: Open windows and doors to ventilate the room during the break-in period.
  • Small Fires: Start with small fires and gradually increase the size of the fires.
  • Low Temperatures: Avoid burning the stove at high temperatures during the break-in period.
  • Monitoring: Monitor the stove’s temperature, smoke, and creosote buildup.

Ongoing Maintenance and Operation

Maintaining your Grandma Bear is crucial for safety, efficiency, and longevity.

1. Regular Cleaning:

  • Ash Removal: Remove ashes regularly to prevent them from building up and blocking airflow.
  • Chimney Cleaning: Have the chimney professionally cleaned at least once a year, or more often if needed.
  • Stove Cleaning: Clean the stove’s surface with a damp cloth to remove dust and soot.

2. Inspection:

  • Visual Inspection: Regularly inspect the stove for cracks, leaks, and other damage.
  • Gasket Inspection: Inspect the door gasket for wear and tear. Replace the gasket if necessary.
  • Firebrick Inspection: Inspect the firebricks for cracks and damage. Replace any damaged firebricks.

3. Proper Operation:

  • Dry Wood: Burn only dry, seasoned wood. Wet wood produces more smoke and creosote.
  • Air Control: Use the air control to regulate the burn rate.
  • Overfiring: Avoid overfiring the stove, as this can damage the stove and create a fire hazard.
  • Clearances: Maintain proper clearances from combustible materials.

4. Wood Selection:

  • Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (oak, maple, ash) burn longer and produce more heat than softwoods (pine, fir, spruce).
  • Seasoning: Season wood for at least six months to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
  • Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less. Use a moisture meter to check the wood’s moisture content.

Maintenance Tips:

  • Regular Cleaning: Clean the stove and chimney regularly.
  • Inspection: Inspect the stove for damage.
  • Proper Operation: Burn only dry, seasoned wood and use the air control properly.
  • Professional Help: Consult a professional for any major repairs or maintenance.

Data Point: Studies show that burning seasoned wood can increase a wood stove’s efficiency by up to 30% and reduce emissions by up to 50%.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with proper maintenance, problems can arise. Here’s a quick troubleshooting guide:

1. Smoke Leaking into the Room:

  • Cause: Poor chimney draft, dirty chimney, loose door, cracked stove body.
  • Solution: Clean the chimney, seal any leaks in the stove body, replace the door gasket, ensure proper chimney draft.

2. Stove Not Producing Enough Heat:

  • Cause: Wet wood, poor air supply, dirty stove, damaged firebricks.
  • Solution: Burn only dry, seasoned wood, adjust the air control, clean the stove, replace damaged firebricks.

3. Excessive Creosote Buildup:

  • Cause: Wet wood, low burn temperatures, restricted airflow.
  • Solution: Burn only dry, seasoned wood, increase the burn temperature, ensure proper airflow.

4. Door Not Closing Properly:

  • Cause: Warped door, damaged latch, worn gasket.
  • Solution: Adjust the door hinges, replace the latch, replace the door gasket.

5. Cracked Firebricks:

  • Cause: Overheating, impact.
  • Solution: Replace the cracked firebricks.

Troubleshooting Tips:

  • Start with the Basics: Check the simplest things first, such as the wood supply and air control.
  • Consult the Manual: Refer to the stove’s manual for troubleshooting information.
  • Seek Professional Help: If you can’t resolve the problem yourself, consult a professional.

Cost Considerations and Budgeting

Restoring a Grandma Bear can be cost-effective, but it’s important to budget carefully.

1. Initial Assessment:

  • Inspection: Have the stove professionally inspected to assess its condition and identify any necessary repairs.
  • Cost Estimate: Obtain a cost estimate for the restoration project.

2. Budget Categories:

  • Tools: Factor in the cost of any tools you need to purchase.
  • Materials: Include the cost of stove paint, stove cement, gasket material, firebricks, and other materials.
  • Replacement Parts: Budget for any necessary replacement parts.
  • Professional Services: Include the cost of any professional services, such as welding or chimney cleaning.
  • Contingency: Set aside a contingency fund for unexpected expenses.

3. Cost-Saving Tips:

  • DIY: Do as much of the work yourself as possible.
  • Used Parts: Consider using used parts if they are in good condition.
  • Shop Around: Compare prices from different suppliers.
  • Plan Ahead: Plan the project carefully to avoid unnecessary expenses.

4. Long-Term Costs:

  • Fuel: Factor in the cost of firewood.
  • Maintenance: Budget for ongoing maintenance expenses.
  • Insurance: Check with your insurance company to ensure your wood stove is covered.

Cost Breakdown Example:

  • Tools: $50-$200 (depending on what you already own)
  • Materials: $50-$150
  • Replacement Parts: $50-$200
  • Professional Services: $100-$500
  • Contingency: $50-$100
  • Total: $300-$1150

Additional Resources

Here are some resources to help you with your Grandma Bear restoration project:

  • Local Stove Shops: Local stove shops can provide advice, parts, and service.
  • Online Retailers: Many online retailers specialize in wood stove parts and accessories.
  • Manufacturer: Contact the manufacturer (if possible) for information and parts.
  • Online Forums: Online forums dedicated to wood stoves can provide valuable information and support.
  • Books and Articles: Books and articles on wood stove maintenance and repair can be helpful.

Suppliers of Logging Tools:

  • Bailey’s: Offers a wide selection of logging tools, including chainsaws, axes, and safety gear.
  • Northern Tool + Equipment: Carries a variety of logging tools and equipment.
  • Forestry Suppliers: Specializes in forestry and logging supplies.

Drying Equipment Rental Services:

  • Local Rental Companies: Check with local rental companies for drying equipment, such as wood chippers and splitters.

Next Steps

Congratulations! You’ve now got a solid foundation for restoring your Fisher Wood Stove Grandma Bear. Here’s what to do next:

  1. Final Assessment: Reassess your stove. Is it truly safe and worth restoring, or would a newer, more efficient model be a better long-term investment?
  2. Plan Your Project: Create a detailed plan, outlining the steps involved, the materials needed, and the estimated cost.
  3. Gather Your Supplies: Gather all the necessary tools and materials.
  4. Start the Restoration: Follow the steps outlined in this guide to disassemble, clean, repair, and reassemble your stove.
  5. Test and Break-In: Test the stove and break it in properly.
  6. Enjoy Your Restored Stove: Enjoy the warmth and comfort of your restored Grandma Bear!

Remember, restoring a classic wood stove is a labor of love. It takes time, effort, and a bit of patience. But the reward of a roaring fire in a beautifully restored piece of history is well worth it. Good luck, and happy burning!

I hope this guide has been helpful. Remember to always prioritize safety and consult with professionals when needed. Now go forth and revive that Grandma Bear!

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