661 Stihl Chainsaw Guide (5 Pro Tips For Efficient Woodcutting)

661 Stihl Chainsaw Guide: 5 Pro Tips for Efficient Woodcutting

Let’s talk about the Stihl MS 661. It’s a beast. I’ve seen this saw take down trees that would make lesser machines weep. But with great power comes great responsibility, and more importantly, the need to wield it efficiently. Before diving into the pro tips, let’s address some common myths about chainsaw durability.

Durability Myths and the Stihl MS 661

I’ve heard it all. “Chainsaws are indestructible.” “You can run them dry and they’ll be fine.” “Sharpening? Overrated.” These are myths, plain and simple. The Stihl MS 661 is a robust machine, but it’s not impervious to neglect or abuse.

Myth 1: Indestructible: No chainsaw is indestructible. The MS 661 is built tough, but components like the piston, cylinder, crankshaft, and clutch are all susceptible to wear and tear. Regular maintenance is crucial.
Myth 2: Running it Dry: Running a chainsaw dry of bar oil or fuel is a recipe for disaster. It will lead to premature wear on the bar, chain, and engine components.
Myth 3: Sharpening is Overrated: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It puts excessive strain on the saw and increases the risk of kickback.

I’ve seen firsthand what happens when these myths are believed. A logger I once worked with swore his saw could handle anything. He rarely sharpened his chain and never bothered with proper lubrication. His 661 lasted about half as long as mine, and he spent far more time on repairs.

The Stihl MS 661 is a professional-grade chainsaw designed for demanding tasks. It’s not a toy, and it requires respect and proper care to deliver optimal performance and longevity. Now, let’s move on to the tips that will help you get the most out of this powerful tool.

Tip 1: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is the cornerstone of efficient woodcutting. It reduces strain on the saw, improves cutting speed, and enhances safety. I cannot stress this enough. A dull chain is a dangerous chain.

Why Sharpening Matters

Increased Cutting Speed: A sharp chain slices through wood effortlessly, reducing the time it takes to fell a tree or buck a log.
Reduced Strain on the Saw: A sharp chain requires less force to cut, minimizing wear and tear on the engine and other components.
Improved Safety: A dull chain is more likely to kick back, increasing the risk of injury.
Cleaner Cuts: A sharp chain produces cleaner, more precise cuts, which is particularly important for milling or other precision work.

The Tools You’ll Need

Chainsaw File: I prefer a round file with the correct diameter for my chain’s pitch. For the MS 661, which often uses a .404″ pitch chain, a 7/32″ file is usually the ticket.
File Guide: This tool helps maintain the correct filing angle and depth, ensuring consistent sharpening.
Depth Gauge Tool: Used to adjust the depth gauges (rakers) on the chain.
Vise: Securing the chainsaw bar in a vise makes sharpening easier and safer.
Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp teeth.

The Sharpening Process: Step-by-Step

Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw on a flat, stable surface and secure the bar in a vise.
Identify the Sharpest Tooth: Examine the chain and identify the tooth that appears to be the sharpest. This will serve as your reference point.
File the Cutting Edges: Using the file guide, position the file on the cutting edge of the tooth. Maintain the correct filing angle (typically 30 degrees) and depth. Push the file forward and slightly upward, following the contour of the cutting edge. Repeat this process 3-5 times per tooth, or until the tooth is sharp.
File All Cutting Teeth: Repeat step 3 for all cutting teeth on the chain, alternating between the left and right sides. Maintain consistency in the number of strokes and filing angle for each tooth.
Lower the Depth Gauges (Rakers): Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers) relative to the cutting teeth. If the depth gauges are too high, file them down until they are slightly lower than the cutting teeth. The correct depth gauge setting is crucial for efficient cutting. Typically, I aim for around .025″ to .030″ for softwoods and .020″ to .025″ for hardwoods.
Clean the Chain: Use a brush to remove any metal filings from the chain.
Lubricate the Chain: Apply bar and chain oil to the chain before using the chainsaw.

My Sharpening Tips and Tricks

Consistent Angle: Maintaining a consistent filing angle is crucial for even sharpening. Use a file guide to help you.
Light Pressure: Avoid applying too much pressure when filing. Let the file do the work.
Sharpness Test: After sharpening, test the chain by running it lightly across a piece of wood. A sharp chain will bite into the wood aggressively.
Frequency: Sharpen your chain regularly, ideally after every few tanks of fuel or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance.
Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, take it to a professional. They have the tools and expertise to ensure a precise sharpening job.

I once worked on a logging crew where the foreman insisted on everyone sharpening their chains at least twice a day. It seemed excessive at first, but the difference in productivity and safety was undeniable.

Takeaway: Mastering chain sharpening is essential for efficient and safe woodcutting with the Stihl MS 661. Invest in the right tools, practice the proper technique, and sharpen your chain regularly.

Tip 2: Optimizing Bar and Chain Selection

The right bar and chain combination can significantly impact the performance and efficiency of your Stihl MS 661. It’s not just about slapping on any old chain and hoping for the best.

Understanding Bar Length and Chain Pitch

Bar Length: The bar length should be appropriate for the size of the trees you’re felling. A longer bar allows you to fell larger trees, but it also increases the weight and reduces maneuverability. The MS 661 can handle bars ranging from 20″ to 36″ or even longer, depending on the application. For general use, I find a 28″ or 32″ bar to be a good compromise.
Chain Pitch: The chain pitch is the distance between the centers of three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common chain pitches include .325″, 3/8″, and .404″. The MS 661 is typically used with 3/8″ or .404″ pitch chains. A .404″ pitch chain is more aggressive and durable but requires more power.

Chain Types and Their Applications

Full Chisel: Full chisel chains have square-cornered teeth that cut aggressively and quickly. They are ideal for felling large trees and bucking clean wood. However, they are also more prone to damage in dirty or abrasive conditions.
Semi-Chisel: Semi-chisel chains have rounded-cornered teeth that are more durable and less prone to damage than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and working in dirty or abrasive conditions.
Low-Kickback: Low-kickback chains have features that reduce the risk of kickback, such as bumper links or guard links. They are a good choice for beginners or those who are concerned about safety.
Ripping Chain: Ripping chains are designed specifically for milling lumber. They have a different tooth geometry than cross-cutting chains, which allows them to cut parallel to the wood grain more efficiently.

Choosing the Right Bar and Chain Combination

Consider the Size of the Trees: If you’re felling large trees, you’ll need a longer bar. If you’re bucking smaller logs, a shorter bar will be more maneuverable.
Consider the Type of Wood: Hardwoods require a more aggressive chain than softwoods. A .404″ pitch chain with full chisel teeth is a good choice for hardwoods, while a 3/8″ pitch chain with semi-chisel teeth may be sufficient for softwoods.
Consider the Cutting Conditions: If you’re working in dirty or abrasive conditions, choose a more durable chain, such as a semi-chisel chain.
Consider Your Skill Level: If you’re a beginner, choose a low-kickback chain for added safety.

My Personal Recommendations

For Felling Large Trees (Hardwoods): 32″ bar with a .404″ pitch full chisel chain.
For Bucking Logs (General Purpose): 28″ bar with a 3/8″ pitch semi-chisel chain.
For Milling Lumber: 36″ bar with a .404″ pitch ripping chain.

I once tried to fell a massive oak tree with a 20″ bar. It was a grueling experience that took far longer than it should have. I learned my lesson: always use the right tool for the job.

Bar and Chain Maintenance

Regularly Inspect the Bar: Check the bar for wear and damage, such as burrs, cracks, or bends. Dress the bar rails with a bar rail dressing tool to remove burrs and ensure smooth chain movement.
Clean the Bar and Chain: Remove sawdust and debris from the bar and chain after each use.
Lubricate the Bar and Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the bar and chain lubricated. Adjust the oiler to ensure adequate lubrication.
Rotate the Bar: Regularly rotate the bar to distribute wear evenly.
Replace Worn Components: Replace the bar and chain when they become worn or damaged.

Takeaway: Selecting the right bar and chain combination is crucial for maximizing the performance and efficiency of your Stihl MS 661. Consider the size of the trees, the type of wood, the cutting conditions, and your skill level when making your selection.

Tip 3: Mastering Felling Techniques for Safety and Efficiency

Felling a tree is a complex and potentially dangerous task. Proper felling techniques are essential for ensuring safety and maximizing efficiency. I’ve seen enough close calls to know that shortcuts can be deadly.

Pre-Felling Assessment

Before felling any tree, conduct a thorough assessment of the surrounding area and the tree itself.

Identify Hazards: Look for hazards such as power lines, buildings, roads, and other trees.
Assess the Tree: Assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any signs of weakness or decay.
Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles that could impede your movement.

Felling Cuts: The Basics

Undercut: The undercut is a notch cut into the tree on the side you want it to fall. It should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. It should be slightly higher than the undercut and should leave a hinge of wood to guide the tree’s fall.
Hinge: The hinge is the uncut portion of wood between the undercut and the back cut. It controls the direction of the fall.

Advanced Felling Techniques

Open Face Felling: This technique involves creating a wider undercut than traditional felling, which allows for better control over the direction of the fall.
Humboldt Cut: This technique is used for felling trees with a strong lean. It involves creating a series of cuts that gradually weaken the tree, allowing it to fall in the desired direction.
Boring Cut: This technique is used to relieve tension in the tree before making the back cut. It involves drilling a hole through the tree near the back cut.

My Felling Tips and Tricks

Use Wedges: Use felling wedges to help guide the tree’s fall and prevent it from pinching the saw.
Communicate with Your Partner: If you’re working with a partner, communicate clearly and coordinate your actions.
Watch for Snags: Be aware of snags (dead branches) that could fall during the felling process.
Don’t Be Afraid to Walk Away: If you’re not comfortable felling a tree, don’t do it. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

I once witnessed a logger who ignored the lean of a tree and tried to force it to fall in the opposite direction. The tree kicked back, pinning him against another tree. He was lucky to escape with only minor injuries.

Felling Safety Checklist

Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Inspect your chainsaw before each use.
Be aware of your surroundings.
Plan your escape route.
Use proper felling techniques.
Communicate with your partner.
Don’t be afraid to walk away.

Takeaway: Mastering felling techniques is crucial for ensuring safety and maximizing efficiency when working with the Stihl MS 661. Conduct a thorough pre-felling assessment, use proper felling cuts, and follow all safety guidelines.

Tip 4: Optimizing Fuel and Lubrication for Peak Performance

The Stihl MS 661 is a high-performance machine that requires high-quality fuel and lubrication to operate at its best. Skimping on these can lead to decreased performance, increased wear and tear, and even engine damage. I’ve seen it happen too many times.

Fuel Requirements

Octane Rating: Use gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89 (AKI) or 95 (RON). Higher octane fuel may be required for certain operating conditions.
Ethanol Content: Use gasoline with an ethanol content of no more than 10%. Ethanol can damage the engine and fuel system.
Fuel Stabilizer: Add a fuel stabilizer to the gasoline to prevent it from deteriorating during storage.

Oil Mixture

Two-Stroke Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil that is specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Stihl Ultra HP two-stroke oil is a good choice.
Mixing Ratio: Mix the two-stroke oil with gasoline at a ratio of 50:1 (2.6 ounces of oil per gallon of gasoline). Use a measuring cup to ensure accurate mixing.
Mix Fresh Fuel: Mix fresh fuel each time you fill the fuel tank. Do not use fuel that has been stored for more than 30 days.

Bar and Chain Oil

High-Quality Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. Stihl bar and chain oil is a good choice.
Viscosity: Use an oil with the appropriate viscosity for the operating conditions. In cold weather, use a thinner oil. In hot weather, use a thicker oil.
Oiler Adjustment: Adjust the oiler to ensure adequate lubrication of the bar and chain. The oiler should be set to deliver a steady stream of oil to the chain.

My Fuel and Lubrication Tips and Tricks

Use Fresh Fuel: Always use fresh fuel that has been properly mixed with two-stroke oil.
Store Fuel Properly: Store fuel in a clean, airtight container in a cool, dry place.
Check Oil Level: Check the bar and chain oil level regularly and refill as needed.
Clean the Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine.
Inspect the Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it if it is worn or fouled.

I once used cheap, low-octane fuel in my MS 661 and quickly noticed a significant decrease in power and performance. The engine also started running hotter than usual. I learned my lesson: always use high-quality fuel and lubrication.

Troubleshooting Fuel and Lubrication Problems

Engine Won’t Start: Check the fuel level, spark plug, and air filter.
Engine Runs Poorly: Check the fuel mixture, spark plug, and air filter.
Chain Not Lubricating: Check the oil level, oiler adjustment, and bar oil passage.

Takeaway: Optimizing fuel and lubrication is crucial for maximizing the performance and longevity of your Stihl MS 661. Use high-quality fuel and lubrication, mix fuel properly, and maintain the fuel and lubrication systems.

Tip 5: Proactive Maintenance and Storage

Regular maintenance is the key to keeping your Stihl MS 661 running smoothly and reliably for years to come. Neglecting maintenance can lead to costly repairs and reduced performance. I treat my saws like prized possessions, and they treat me right in return.

Daily Maintenance

Clean the Chainsaw: Remove sawdust and debris from the chainsaw after each use.
Inspect the Bar and Chain: Check the bar and chain for wear and damage.
Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain as needed.
Check the Fuel and Oil Levels: Check the fuel and oil levels and refill as needed.

Weekly Maintenance

Clean the Air Filter: Clean the air filter with soap and water.
Inspect the Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug and replace it if it is worn or fouled.
Lubricate Moving Parts: Lubricate moving parts, such as the clutch bearing and sprocket.
Check the Chain Tension: Check the chain tension and adjust as needed.

Monthly Maintenance

Clean the Cylinder Fins: Clean the cylinder fins to ensure proper cooling.
Inspect the Fuel Filter: Inspect the fuel filter and replace it if it is clogged.
Inspect the Bar Oil Filter: Inspect the bar oil filter and replace it if it is clogged.
Check the Anti-Vibration System: Check the anti-vibration system for wear and damage.

Seasonal Maintenance

Prepare for Storage: Before storing the chainsaw for an extended period, drain the fuel tank, remove the spark plug, and spray fogging oil into the cylinder.
Inspect the Fuel Lines: Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or leaks.
Inspect the Carburetor: Inspect the carburetor and clean or rebuild it if necessary.

Storage

Clean the Chainsaw: Clean the chainsaw thoroughly before storing it.
Drain the Fuel Tank: Drain the fuel tank to prevent fuel from deteriorating during storage.
Remove the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and spray fogging oil into the cylinder.
Store in a Dry Place: Store the chainsaw in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.
Cover the Chainsaw: Cover the chainsaw to protect it from dust and debris.

My Maintenance and Storage Tips and Tricks

Keep a Maintenance Log: Keep a maintenance log to track when you performed each maintenance task.
Use Genuine Stihl Parts: Use genuine Stihl parts when replacing worn or damaged components.
Follow the Manufacturer’s Recommendations: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance and storage.

I once neglected to clean the air filter on my MS 661, and it caused the engine to overheat and lose power. I learned my lesson: regular maintenance is essential.

Troubleshooting Maintenance Problems

Engine Overheating: Check the air filter, cylinder fins, and spark plug.
Loss of Power: Check the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug.
Difficult Starting: Check the fuel filter, spark plug, and carburetor.

Takeaway: Proactive maintenance and proper storage are crucial for extending the life and maximizing the performance of your Stihl MS 661. Follow a regular maintenance schedule, use genuine Stihl parts, and store the chainsaw properly.

By following these 5 pro tips, you can unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS 661 and enjoy years of efficient and reliable woodcutting. Remember, safety is always paramount. Wear appropriate safety gear, use proper techniques, and never take shortcuts. Happy cutting!