660 Stihl Specs: Best Bars For Large Beech Logs (5 Safety Tips)

Understanding the User Intent: “660 Stihl Specs: Best Bars for Large Beech Logs (5 Safety Tips)”

The user’s intent behind this search query is threefold:

Technical Specifications of the Stihl 660: They want to know the core specifications of the Stihl 660 chainsaw, likely to determine its suitability for handling large beech logs.
Optimal Bar Selection for Large Beech Logs: The user seeks guidance on choosing the right bar length, type, and features for effectively cutting through large-diameter beech trees. They want to know what bar will maximize the chainsaw’s performance and minimize risks.
Safety Practices for Chainsaw Operation: The user is aware of the inherent dangers of using a chainsaw, particularly on large logs, and wants to learn essential safety tips to prevent accidents.

The Stihl 660: A Logging Legend

The Stihl MS 660 (now succeeded by the MS 661 C-M) is a legendary chainsaw, often regarded as a benchmark for power and reliability in the professional logging world. It’s a saw designed for demanding tasks and large timber, making it a natural choice for felling and processing large beech trees.

Key Specifications of the Stihl MS 660 (While discontinued, understanding its specs remains crucial for those who own or use it):

Engine Displacement: 91.6 cc (5.6 cu. in.)
Engine Power: 5.2 kW (7.0 bhp)
Weight (Powerhead Only): 7.3 kg (16.1 lbs)
Fuel Capacity: 820 ml (27.7 oz)
Oil Capacity: 360 ml (12.2 oz)
Guide Bar Lengths (Recommended): 20″ – 36″ (50 cm – 90 cm)

Why is the Stihl 660 suitable for large beech logs?

High Power Output: The 91.6 cc engine delivers ample power to drive long bars through dense hardwood like beech.
Robust Construction: Built to withstand the rigors of professional use, the 660 can handle the stresses of felling and bucking large trees.
Efficient Cooling System: Extended operation in demanding conditions requires an effective cooling system, which the 660 provides.
Anti-Vibration System: Reduces operator fatigue, allowing for longer and safer work periods.

Beechwood: Understanding the Challenge

Beech ( Fagus grandifolia in North America, Fagus sylvatica in Europe) is a hardwood prized for its strength, density, and fine grain. However, these qualities also make it a challenging wood to cut, especially when dealing with large logs.

Key Characteristics of Beechwood:

High Density: Beech is a dense hardwood, typically ranging from 42 to 56 lbs/cubic foot when air-dried. This density requires a chainsaw with sufficient power and a sharp chain.
Interlocked Grain: Beech often has an interlocked grain pattern, making it more difficult to split and cut cleanly. This can lead to increased friction and heat buildup during sawing.
High Moisture Content: Freshly cut beechwood can have a high moisture content (over 60%), which further increases its weight and resistance to cutting.
Hardness: Beech has a Janka hardness rating of around 1300 lbf, indicating its resistance to indentation and wear. This hardness requires a durable chainsaw bar and chain.

Why these characteristics matter when choosing a chainsaw bar:

The density, grain, moisture content, and hardness of beechwood all influence the choice of chainsaw bar. A longer bar may be necessary for large-diameter logs, but it also requires more power to drive through the wood. A bar with a narrow kerf can reduce friction and improve cutting speed, but it may not be as durable as a wider bar.

Selecting the Best Bar for Your Stihl 660 and Large Beech Logs

Choosing the right bar for your Stihl 660 when tackling large beech logs is critical for performance, safety, and the longevity of your saw. Here’s a breakdown of the factors to consider:

1. Bar Length: Matching the Bar to the Log

The most crucial factor is bar length. You need a bar long enough to cut through the diameter of the logs you’re working with.

Minimum Length: The bar should be at least slightly longer than the diameter of the largest logs you typically encounter. This allows you to make a complete cut without burying the powerhead in the wood.
General Recommendations for Large Beech: For logs 24-36 inches in diameter, a 28- to 36-inch bar is generally recommended. For logs larger than 36 inches, you may need a bar longer than 36 inches.
My Experience: I once tried using a 24-inch bar on a 30-inch beech log. While I could technically make the cut, it was incredibly awkward and inefficient. I had to cut from both sides, which increased the risk of pinching and kickback. Lesson learned: always use a bar that’s adequately sized for the job.

2. Bar Type: Solid vs. Laminated

Chainsaw bars come in two primary types: solid and laminated.

Laminated Bars: These bars are constructed from multiple layers of steel welded together. They are lighter and less expensive than solid bars, making them a popular choice for general use. However, they are not as durable as solid bars and are more prone to bending or breaking under heavy use.
Solid Bars: Solid bars are machined from a single piece of steel, making them much stronger and more durable than laminated bars. They are better suited for demanding tasks like felling large trees and cutting dense hardwoods.
Recommendation for Beech: Given the density and hardness of beechwood, I highly recommend using a solid bar with your Stihl 660. The added durability will pay off in the long run, especially if you’re frequently processing large logs.

3. Bar Features: Sprocket Nose vs. Hard Nose

The nose of the bar, where the chain turns, can be either a sprocket nose or a hard nose.

Sprocket Nose Bars: These bars have a sprocket (a small wheel with teeth) at the tip, which reduces friction and improves cutting speed. They are a good choice for general use and for cutting softer woods.
Hard Nose Bars: These bars have a solid, hardened tip. They are more durable than sprocket nose bars and are better suited for abrasive conditions and cutting dense hardwoods.
Recommendation for Beech: For large beech logs, a hard nose bar is often preferred. While you might sacrifice a tiny bit of cutting speed compared to a sprocket nose, the increased durability is crucial when dealing with the abrasive bark and dense wood of beech.

4. Chain Gauge and Pitch: Ensuring Compatibility

The chain gauge and pitch must match the bar and the chainsaw’s drive sprocket.

Gauge: The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links on the chain that fit into the bar’s groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
Stihl 660 Compatibility: The Stihl 660 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain. Consult your chainsaw’s manual to determine the correct gauge for your saw and bar.
Importance: Using the wrong gauge or pitch can damage the chain, bar, and chainsaw. Always double-check compatibility before using a new chain or bar.

5. Bar Brands: Reputable Manufacturers

Several reputable manufacturers produce high-quality chainsaw bars. Some popular brands include:

Stihl: Stihl bars are known for their quality and durability. They are designed specifically for Stihl chainsaws, ensuring optimal performance.
Oregon: Oregon is a leading manufacturer of chainsaw bars and chains. They offer a wide range of bars to fit various chainsaw models and applications.
Husqvarna: While primarily known for their chainsaws, Husqvarna also produces high-quality bars that are compatible with other chainsaw brands.
Carlton: Carlton bars are known for their durability and value. They are a good option for those looking for a reliable bar at a reasonable price.

Specific Bar Recommendations for Stihl 660 and Large Beech Logs:

Based on my experience and research, here are a few specific bar recommendations for your Stihl 660 when cutting large beech logs:

Stihl Rollomatic E Super: This is a high-quality laminated bar with a replaceable sprocket nose. It’s a good all-around choice for various cutting tasks, including felling and bucking. Consider this for smaller beech logs (under 24 inches) or occasional use on larger logs.
Oregon Power Match Solid Bar: This is a solid bar designed for professional use. It’s incredibly durable and can withstand the rigors of cutting dense hardwoods like beech. I’ve personally used this bar on countless beech trees, and it has never let me down. This is my go-to recommendation for consistently processing large beech.
Husqvarna Solid Bar: Husqvarna also offers solid bars that are compatible with the Stihl 660. These bars are known for their strength and durability.

5 Essential Safety Tips for Cutting Large Beech Logs with a Chainsaw

Operating a chainsaw is inherently dangerous, and the risks are amplified when working with large, heavy logs. Here are five essential safety tips to help you prevent accidents and injuries:

1. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is Non-Negotiable

Before you even think about starting your chainsaw, make sure you’re wearing the proper personal protective equipment (PPE). This includes:

Chainsaw Chaps: These are designed to stop the chain in the event of contact with your legs. They are an absolute must-have. I’ve seen chaps save countless people from serious leg injuries.
Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud, and prolonged exposure to high noise levels can damage your hearing. Wear earplugs or earmuffs.
Gloves: Gloves provide a better grip on the chainsaw and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling branches or kickback.

2. Proper Chainsaw Maintenance: A Sharp Chain is a Safe Chain

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue.

Sharpen Your Chain Regularly: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if you notice it’s becoming dull.
Use the Correct File Size and Angle: Consult your chainsaw’s manual for the correct file size and angle for sharpening your chain.
Maintain Proper Chain Tension: A loose chain can derail and cause serious injury. Check the chain tension before each use and adjust as needed.
Clean and Lubricate Your Bar and Chain: Regularly clean and lubricate your bar and chain to reduce friction and wear.

3. Safe Cutting Techniques: Avoiding Kickback

Kickback is one of the most common and dangerous chainsaw hazards. It occurs when the tip of the bar catches on something, causing the saw to suddenly kick back towards the operator.

Understand the Kickback Zone: The kickback zone is the upper quadrant of the bar tip. Avoid using this area when cutting.
Use a Bore Cut: A bore cut involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a starting point for your cut. This technique can help reduce the risk of kickback.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Always maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
Keep Your Body Out of the Cutting Plane: Position yourself so that if kickback occurs, the saw will not hit you.
Practice Situational Awareness: Be aware of your surroundings and any potential hazards, such as branches, rocks, or uneven ground.

4. Proper Felling Techniques: Planning and Preparation

Felling a large tree is a complex and dangerous task. It requires careful planning and preparation.

Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any defects or hazards.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route that is free of obstacles.
Make a Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction of the fall. It should be made at a 45-degree angle, with the bottom cut being about one-fifth of the tree’s diameter.
Make a Back Cut: The back cut should be made slightly above the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
Use Wedges: Use wedges to help direct the fall and prevent the tree from pinching the saw.
Never Fell a Tree Alone: Always have someone nearby to assist you and call for help in case of an emergency.

5. Safe Bucking Techniques: Supporting the Log

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, more manageable pieces. It’s essential to support the log properly to prevent pinching and kickback.

Support the Log: Use logs, rocks, or other supports to elevate the log off the ground.
Cut from the Tension Side: When cutting a log that is supported at both ends, cut from the top (tension side) first to prevent pinching.
Cut from the Compression Side: When cutting a log that is supported in the middle, cut from the bottom (compression side) first to prevent pinching.
Use Wedges: Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent the log from pinching the saw.
Be Aware of Rolling Logs: Logs can roll unexpectedly, especially on slopes. Be aware of your surroundings and take precautions to prevent being pinned or crushed.

Wood Anatomy and Properties: The Science Behind the Cut

To truly understand how to effectively process beechwood, it’s helpful to delve into some wood science. Understanding the anatomy and properties of wood can inform your cutting techniques and tool selection.

Hardwood vs. Softwood

Beech is a hardwood, meaning it comes from deciduous trees that typically have broad leaves and reproduce via flowers. Softwoods, on the other hand, come from coniferous trees that have needles or scales and reproduce via cones. Hardwoods are generally denser and more complex in structure than softwoods.

Wood Anatomy

Wood is composed of cells arranged in a specific pattern. These cells primarily consist of:

Tracheids (in softwoods) or Vessels (in hardwoods): These are long, tube-like cells that transport water and nutrients throughout the tree. Hardwoods have vessels, which are larger and more efficient at water transport than the tracheids found in softwoods. This difference contributes to the higher density of most hardwoods.
Fibers: These are long, slender cells that provide structural support to the tree. Hardwoods generally have a higher proportion of fibers than softwoods, contributing to their strength and density.
Parenchyma Cells: These cells store food and other substances.
Rays: These are horizontal rows of cells that transport nutrients and water radially across the tree.

Moisture Content Dynamics

Moisture content (MC) is the amount of water in wood, expressed as a percentage of the oven-dry weight of the wood. Freshly cut (green) wood can have a moisture content of over 100%, meaning it weighs more than twice as much as it would when completely dry.

Impact on Cutting: High moisture content increases the weight and density of the wood, making it more difficult to cut. It also increases friction and heat buildup during sawing.
Drying Process: As wood dries, it shrinks and can develop cracks or warps. The rate of drying depends on the species of wood, the thickness of the material, and the environmental conditions.
Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC): EMC is the moisture content that wood will eventually reach when exposed to a particular environment. The EMC varies depending on the relative humidity and temperature of the air. In most climates, the EMC ranges from 6% to 14%.
Seasoning Firewood: For firewood, it’s essential to season the wood (allow it to dry) before burning it. Seasoned firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.

Data Point: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that beechwood takes approximately 12-18 months to season properly in a typical climate.

Timber Quality

Timber quality refers to the overall suitability of wood for a particular purpose. Factors that influence timber quality include:

Density: Denser wood is generally stronger and more durable.
Grain Pattern: Straight-grained wood is easier to work with and less prone to warping.
Knots: Knots are points where branches grew out of the tree. They can weaken the wood and make it more difficult to work with.
Defects: Other defects, such as cracks, splits, and decay, can also reduce the quality of the timber.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices

Beyond the chainsaw and bar, several other tools are essential for safe and efficient logging.

Felling Axes and Wedges

Felling Axe: Used for making notch cuts and back cuts when felling trees. Choose an axe with a sharp blade and a comfortable handle.
Wedges: Used to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent the saw from pinching. Plastic or aluminum wedges are preferred over steel wedges, as they are less likely to damage the chainsaw chain if accidentally struck.

Cant Hooks and Peavies

Cant Hook: Used for rolling and positioning logs. It has a hook that grabs the log and a handle that provides leverage.
Peavy: Similar to a cant hook but with a spike at the end for added grip.

Measuring Tools

Diameter Tape: Used to measure the diameter of trees and logs.
Measuring Tape: Used to measure the length of logs and firewood.

Chainsaw Maintenance Tools

Chainsaw File: Used for sharpening the chain.
Depth Gauge Tool: Used to maintain the proper depth gauge setting on the chain.
Bar Groove Cleaner: Used to clean debris from the bar groove.
Scrench: A combination wrench and screwdriver used for various chainsaw maintenance tasks.

Tool Maintenance Best Practices

Sharpening: Keep your cutting tools sharp. A sharp axe or chainsaw chain is safer and more efficient than a dull one.
Cleaning: Clean your tools after each use to remove dirt, sap, and debris.
Lubrication: Lubricate moving parts to reduce friction and wear.
Storage: Store your tools in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.
Inspection: Regularly inspect your tools for damage and repair or replace them as needed.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Once you’ve processed your beech logs into firewood, it’s crucial to season them properly before burning them. Seasoning reduces the moisture content of the wood, making it burn more efficiently and produce less smoke.

Seasoning Techniques

Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up. This allows for maximum exposure to sunlight and airflow.
Elevating: Elevate the firewood off the ground using pallets or other supports. This prevents moisture from wicking up from the ground.
Covering: Cover the top of the firewood pile with a tarp or roof to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for airflow.
Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your firewood pile. This will help to speed up the drying process.
Splitting: Splitting the firewood into smaller pieces will also help it to dry more quickly.

Seasoning Time

The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on the species of wood, the size of the pieces, and the environmental conditions. As mentioned earlier, beechwood typically takes 12-18 months to season properly.

Safety Considerations

Stacking Stability: Stack the firewood in a stable manner to prevent it from collapsing.
Pest Control: Be aware of potential pests, such as insects and rodents, that may infest your firewood pile.
Fire Hazards: Keep your firewood pile away from buildings and other flammable materials.
Proper Burning Techniques: Burn firewood in a well-ventilated fireplace or wood stove. Never burn firewood in an enclosed space without proper ventilation.

Data Point: Burning seasoned firewood can increase heating efficiency by as much as 30% compared to burning green wood.

Project Planning and Execution: A Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you plan and execute your beechwood processing project safely and efficiently:

Assessment: Assess the trees you plan to fell. Consider their size, lean, and any potential hazards.
Planning: Develop a detailed plan for felling, bucking, and splitting the wood.
Tool Selection: Choose the appropriate tools for the job, including a chainsaw with the correct bar and chain, a felling axe, wedges, a cant hook, and measuring tools.
Safety Gear: Gather all necessary safety gear, including chainsaw chaps, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, steel-toed boots, and a helmet.
Felling: Fell the trees using proper felling techniques.
Bucking: Buck the felled trees into smaller, more manageable pieces.
Splitting: Split the bucked logs into firewood using a manual or hydraulic splitter.
Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up, and elevate it off the ground.
Seasoning: Allow the firewood to season for 12-18 months.
Burning: Burn the seasoned firewood in a well-ventilated fireplace or wood stove.

Manual vs. Hydraulic Splitters: A Detailed Comparison

Splitting large beech logs can be a physically demanding task. While a maul and wedge are traditional methods, hydraulic splitters can significantly reduce the effort and time required.

Manual Splitters (Maul and Wedge)

Pros:
- Inexpensive: A maul and wedge are relatively inexpensive compared to a hydraulic splitter.
- Portable: They are easy to transport and can be used in remote locations without electricity.
- Quiet: They don’t produce any noise, making them suitable for use in noise-sensitive areas.
- Good Exercise: Splitting wood manually is a great workout.
Cons:
- Physically Demanding: Splitting wood manually can be very tiring, especially when dealing with large, dense logs.
- Time-Consuming: It takes significantly longer to split wood manually than with a hydraulic splitter.
- Higher Risk of Injury: There is a higher risk of injury, such as back strain, cuts, and bruises.
- Limited Splitting Force: The amount of force you can generate is limited by your strength and technique.

Hydraulic Splitters

Pros:
- Efficient: Hydraulic splitters can split wood much faster than manual methods.
- Less Physically Demanding: They require less physical effort, reducing fatigue and the risk of injury.
- High Splitting Force: They can generate a significant amount of splitting force, making it easier to split large, dense logs.
- Consistent Results: They provide consistent splitting results, regardless of the wood’s grain or density.
Cons:
- Expensive: Hydraulic splitters are more expensive than manual splitting tools.
- Less Portable: They are heavier and more difficult to transport.
- Noisy: They can be noisy, which may be a concern in noise-sensitive areas.
- Require Maintenance: They require regular maintenance, such as oil changes and lubrication.

Choosing the Right Splitter

The choice between a manual and hydraulic splitter depends on your individual needs and circumstances. If you only split a small amount of wood occasionally, a manual splitter may be sufficient. However, if you split a large amount of wood regularly, a hydraulic splitter is a worthwhile investment.

Considerations:

Volume of Wood: How much wood do you typically split in a year?
Log Size: What is the average size and density of the logs you split?
Physical Condition: Are you physically fit enough to split wood manually?
Budget: How much are you willing to spend on a splitter?
Noise Sensitivity: Will the noise of a hydraulic splitter be a problem in your area?

Case Study: Processing a Large Beech Tree into Firewood

To illustrate the principles discussed above, let’s consider a case study involving the processing of a large beech tree into firewood.

Scenario:

A homeowner has a large beech tree that has fallen in their yard. The tree is approximately 36 inches in diameter at the base and 50 feet tall. The homeowner wants to process the tree into firewood for their wood stove.

Project Plan:

Assessment: The homeowner assesses the tree and identifies any potential hazards, such as branches under tension and uneven ground.
Tool Selection: The homeowner selects a Stihl 660 chainsaw with a 36-inch Oregon Power Match solid bar, a felling axe, wedges, a cant hook, and a hydraulic splitter.
Safety Gear: The homeowner gathers all necessary safety gear, including chainsaw chaps, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, steel-toed boots, and a helmet.
Felling: Since the tree is already down, this step is skipped. However, the homeowner takes precautions to ensure the tree is stable and won’t roll during processing.
Bucking: The homeowner bucks the tree into 16-inch logs using the chainsaw. They use the cant hook to roll the logs and support them properly to prevent pinching.
Splitting: The homeowner splits the logs into firewood using the hydraulic splitter. They wear eye protection and gloves to protect themselves from flying debris.
Stacking: The homeowner stacks the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up, and elevates it off the ground using pallets.
Seasoning: The homeowner allows the firewood to season for 18 months before burning it in their wood stove.

Results:

The homeowner successfully processed the large beech tree into firewood safely and efficiently. The hydraulic splitter significantly reduced the physical effort required, and the seasoned firewood burned cleanly and efficiently in their wood stove.

Industry Statistics and Data Points

Chainsaw Injuries: According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 36,000 injuries each year.
Firewood Consumption: The U.S. Energy Information Administration estimates that approximately 25 million households in the United States use wood as a primary or secondary heating source.
Firewood Moisture Content: The University of Minnesota Extension recommends that firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20% for optimal burning.
Heating Efficiency: The Chimney Safety Institute of America reports that burning seasoned firewood can increase heating efficiency by as much as 30% compared to burning green wood.
Economic Impact: The firewood industry generates billions of dollars in revenue each year, providing jobs and income for many people in rural communities.

Addressing Challenges Faced by Small Workshops or DIYers Globally

Many small workshops or DIYers around the world face similar challenges when processing wood:

Limited Budget: Access to expensive equipment like hydraulic splitters may be limited.
Space Constraints: Small workshops may have limited space for storing tools and materials.
Access to Power: Access to electricity may be limited in some areas, making it difficult to use electric-powered tools.
Safety Awareness: Lack of training and awareness about safety practices can increase the risk of accidents.

Solutions:

Prioritize Safety: Invest in essential safety gear, such as chainsaw chaps, eye protection, and hearing protection.
Start with Manual Tools: Begin with manual tools, such as a maul and wedge, and gradually upgrade to power tools as your budget allows.
Optimize Space: Utilize vertical storage solutions to maximize space in small workshops.
Consider Gas-Powered Tools: If electricity is limited, consider using gas-powered tools, such as chainsaws and log splitters.
Seek Training: Attend chainsaw safety courses and workshops to learn proper techniques and safety practices.

Key Takeaways and Next Steps

Processing large beech logs with a Stihl 660 chainsaw can be a rewarding but challenging task. By understanding the specifications of the chainsaw, selecting the right bar and chain, following essential safety tips, and utilizing proper techniques, you can safely and efficiently transform those logs into valuable firewood.

Key Takeaways:

The Stihl 660 is a powerful chainsaw suitable for processing large beech logs.
Choose a solid bar with a length appropriate for the size of the logs you’re working with.
Always wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) when operating a chainsaw.
Maintain your chainsaw and keep the chain sharp.
Use safe cutting techniques to avoid kickback.
Season firewood properly before burning it.

Next Steps:

Research: Conduct further research on chainsaw bars and chains to find the best option for your specific needs.
Training: Attend a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety practices.
Practice: Practice your chainsaw skills in a safe and controlled environment.
Plan: Develop a detailed plan for your next wood processing project.
Execute: Execute your plan safely and efficiently, and enjoy the warmth and satisfaction of burning your own firewood.

Remember, safety should always be your top priority when working with chainsaws and processing wood. Take your time, be patient, and never hesitate to ask for help or advice from experienced professionals. Happy cutting!