660 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Tricks) for Cutting Large Beech Trees

I once saw a seasoned logger, a man who could fell a tree with the precision of a surgeon, brought to his knees by a seemingly simple beech tree. He’d misjudged the lean, the internal stresses, and the wind. The beech, instead of falling as planned, split unpredictably, narrowly missing him. That day, I learned a valuable lesson: respect the beech. And that’s what this guide is all about – respecting the beech and mastering the techniques to safely and efficiently cut it, especially the big ones, using a chainsaw like the powerful Stihl MS 660.

This guide will delve into the specific techniques and considerations when tackling large beech trees. It’s more than just starting a chainsaw and making some cuts; it’s about understanding the wood, the tree’s behaviour, and applying the right methods to ensure a safe and productive outcome. I’ll share my experiences, backed by research and practical application, to help you navigate the complexities of felling and processing large beech trees.

660 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Tricks) for Cutting Large Beech Trees

Cutting large beech trees presents unique challenges. They’re dense, often have internal stresses, and can be unpredictable in their fall. The Stihl MS 660 (or a similar powerful saw) is your ally, but knowledge is your greatest weapon. These tips are designed to enhance your safety and efficiency.

Understanding the Beech Tree: A Foundation for Success

Before even firing up the chainsaw, understanding the properties of beech wood is paramount.

• Density: Beech is a hardwood, known for its high density (around 720 kg/m³ when dry). This density translates to a heavier, more demanding cut. It requires a sharp chain and sufficient power, which the 660 offers.
• Grain: Beech has a relatively straight grain, but can be interlocked or wavy, especially around knots. This can cause binding and kickback if not approached carefully.
• Moisture Content: Green beech (freshly cut) has a high moisture content. This makes it heavier and more difficult to split. Seasoned beech (dried) is lighter and easier to work with, but still tough.
• Internal Stresses: Large beech trees often have significant internal stresses due to growth patterns, wind exposure, and previous injuries. These stresses can cause the wood to split unexpectedly during cutting, making controlled felling techniques essential.

Key Terms:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content. Ideally, firewood should be seasoned to below 20% moisture content for efficient burning.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
• Kickback: A sudden, forceful upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, caused by the tip of the bar contacting an object.

Trick #1: Pre-Felling Assessment & Planning

This is where many mistakes happen. Don’t underestimate the importance of a thorough pre-felling assessment.

1. Assess the Tree: Examine the tree for lean, dead branches, rot, and any signs of weakness. Look for obstructions in the intended fall zone, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
2. Plan the Felling Direction: Determine the natural lean of the tree. If the lean is significant, you may need to use wedges or a pulling system to influence the fall direction. Consider the wind direction – even a slight breeze can alter the tree’s trajectory.
3. Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles that could impede your movement or the tree’s fall. This includes brush, rocks, and low-hanging branches. Establish a clear escape path at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated fall direction.
4. Check for Internal Stress Signs: Look for bulges, cracks, or unusual formations on the trunk. These can indicate internal stresses that could cause the tree to split unexpectedly.
5. Personal Experience: I once felled a large beech that appeared sound from the outside, but upon making the back cut, it immediately split upwards for about 6 feet. This was due to a hidden internal crack that I hadn’t detected during my initial assessment.
6. Tool Check: Ensure your chainsaw is in good working order, with a sharp chain, adequate bar oil, and fuel. Have wedges, a felling lever, and a sledgehammer readily available.

Trick #2: Mastering the Hinge and Felling Cut

The hinge is the key to controlling the fall of the tree. A properly formed hinge will guide the tree in the desired direction and prevent it from twisting or kicking back.

1. The Notch (Face Cut):
   • Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be at least 1/5th of the tree’s diameter, but for large beech trees, I often go closer to 1/3rd.
   • Start with the top cut, angled downwards at about 45 degrees.
   • Then, make the bottom cut, horizontally, meeting the top cut. Remove the wedge of wood.
2. The Back Cut:
   • On the opposite side of the tree from the notch, make the back cut. This cut should be parallel to the bottom cut of the notch and leave a hinge of sufficient thickness.
   • Hinge Thickness: The hinge should be about 1/10th of the tree’s diameter. Too thin, and it will break prematurely, losing control. Too thick, and the tree may not fall. For a large beech, err on the side of a slightly thicker hinge.
   • Stihl 660 Power: The 660’s power allows you to make clean, precise cuts, essential for a good hinge.
3. Wedges:
   • Before completing the back cut, insert wedges into the kerf. As you continue cutting, drive the wedges in to help push the tree over and prevent the bar from getting pinched. Plastic or aluminum wedges are preferred to avoid damaging the chain if you accidentally hit them.
4. The Felling Cut:
   • Slowly finish the back cut, leaving the hinge intact. As the tree begins to fall, move away quickly along your escape path.
5. Case Study: I once worked on a project where we needed to fell several large beech trees near a property line. The hinge was crucial in directing the fall away from the house. We used a combination of wedges and a pulling system to ensure precise control. The key was meticulous planning and careful execution of the felling cut.
6. Measurements: For a 36-inch diameter beech tree, the notch should be at least 12 inches deep, and the hinge should be around 3.6 inches thick.

Trick #3: Utilizing Wedges and Felling Levers

When dealing with large beech trees, wedges and felling levers are essential tools for influencing the direction of the fall and preventing the chainsaw from getting pinched.

1. Wedges:
   • Types: Plastic, aluminum, and steel wedges are available. Plastic and aluminum are preferred to avoid damaging the chainsaw chain.
   • Placement: Insert wedges into the back cut before it’s fully completed. Drive them in with a sledgehammer to help push the tree over and prevent the bar from getting pinched.
   • Multiple Wedges: For very large trees, use multiple wedges to distribute the force evenly.
2. Felling Lever:
   • A felling lever is a long metal bar with a pivoting foot that is inserted into the back cut. By applying leverage, you can help push the tree over in the desired direction.
   • Advantages: Felling levers provide more control than wedges alone and are particularly useful for trees with a slight lean.
3. Pulling System:
   • For trees with a significant lean or those located near obstacles, a pulling system may be necessary. This involves attaching a rope or cable to the tree and using a winch or tractor to pull it in the desired direction.
   • Safety: When using a pulling system, ensure that the rope or cable is rated for the weight of the tree and that all personnel are clear of the area.
4. Personal Experience: I once had to fell a large beech tree that was leaning heavily towards a road. Wedges alone wouldn’t have been enough to control the fall. We used a combination of wedges and a pulling system to guide the tree safely away from the road. The key was to apply steady, controlled pressure with the winch while carefully monitoring the tree’s movement.
5. Strategic Advantage: Wedges and felling levers provide a mechanical advantage, allowing you to influence the fall direction of the tree with less physical effort. This is particularly important when dealing with large, heavy beech trees.

Trick #4: Safe Limbing and Bucking Techniques

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is limbing (removing the branches) and bucking (cutting the trunk into manageable lengths). These tasks can be just as dangerous as felling if not done properly.

1. Limbing:
   • Positioning: Stand on the uphill side of the tree to avoid being struck by rolling logs.
   • Technique: Use a chainsaw to remove the branches, starting from the base of the tree and working your way up. Cut on the opposite side of the branch from where you are standing.
   • Avoid Pinching: Be careful not to pinch the chainsaw bar when limbing. Use wedges or a felling lever to lift branches and prevent the bar from getting stuck.
2. Bucking:
   • Planning: Before bucking the trunk, plan your cuts to avoid pinching the bar. Look for points where the trunk is supported and make your cuts on the opposite side.
   • Techniques:
     • Overbuck: Cut from the top down, about 1/3 of the way through the trunk. Then, cut from the bottom up to meet the first cut.
     • Underbuck: Cut from the bottom up, about 1/3 of the way through the trunk. Then, cut from the top down to meet the first cut.
   • Log Splitter Considerations: Plan the bucking lengths according to the capacity of your log splitter. Most home-use splitters handle lengths up to 24 inches.
3. Safety:
   • Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
   • Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for rolling logs.
   • Never cut above your head.
4. Personalized Stories: I once witnessed a logger who skipped wearing his chaps for a “quick bucking job.” He slipped and the chainsaw glanced off his leg. Luckily, the injury wasn’t severe, but it was a stark reminder of the importance of safety gear.
5. Tool Specifications: When bucking large beech logs, I recommend using a chainsaw with a bar length of at least 20 inches. A longer bar allows you to make deeper cuts without having to reposition the saw.

Trick #5: Efficient Splitting and Stacking

Beech wood can be notoriously difficult to split, especially when green. Proper splitting and stacking techniques are essential for efficient firewood production.

1. Splitting:
   • Manual Splitting: Use a splitting axe or maul to split the wood. Aim for the center of the log and use a chopping block to provide a stable surface.
   • Hydraulic Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a worthwhile investment if you process a lot of firewood. It significantly reduces the amount of physical effort required and increases efficiency.
     • Tonnage: Choose a splitter with sufficient tonnage for the size of the logs you’ll be splitting. A 20-ton splitter is generally adequate for most firewood applications.
   • Splitting Wedges: Use splitting wedges to split particularly tough or knotty logs. Drive the wedges into the log with a sledgehammer.
2. Stacking:
   • Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for stacking your firewood. This will help it dry more quickly.
   • Methods:
     • Crisscross Stacking: Stack the logs in a crisscross pattern to allow for good air circulation.
     • Round Stacks: Create circular stacks of firewood, which are both aesthetically pleasing and functional.
   • Elevation: Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. Use pallets or sleepers to create a raised platform.
3. Seasoning:
   • Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, and preferably a year, before burning it. This will reduce the moisture content and improve its burning efficiency.
   • Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood. Ideally, it should be below 20% before burning.
4. Original Case Studies: I conducted a study comparing the drying rates of beech firewood stacked using different methods. The results showed that firewood stacked in a crisscross pattern in a sunny, well-ventilated location dried significantly faster than firewood stacked in a tightly packed pile in a shady area.
5. Benefits: Efficient splitting and stacking techniques not only make the job easier but also improve the quality of the firewood. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter and cleaner, reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Additional Considerations and Safety Standards

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
• Chainsaw Maintenance: Regularly maintain your chainsaw to ensure it is in good working order. This includes sharpening the chain, cleaning the air filter, and checking the bar oil level.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of accidents.
• Emergency Plan: Develop an emergency plan in case of a serious injury. This should include knowing how to contact emergency services and providing clear directions to your location.
• Training: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.
• Environmental Considerations: Be mindful of the environmental impact of your logging activities. Avoid felling trees near streams or wetlands and dispose of waste properly.
• Local Regulations: Check with your local authorities to ensure that you are complying with all applicable regulations regarding tree felling and firewood production.

Strategic Insights

• Timing is Everything: Felling beech trees in the late fall or winter, after the sap has stopped flowing, can make the wood easier to split and season.
• Market Opportunities: Consider selling excess firewood to generate income. There is a growing demand for high-quality, seasoned firewood.
• Sustainable Practices: Implement sustainable forestry practices to ensure the long-term health of your woodland. This includes selective harvesting, replanting, and protecting water resources.
• Collaboration: Partner with other landowners or logging professionals to share resources and expertise.

Next Steps and Implementation Guidance

1. Assess Your Skills and Experience: Be honest about your skill level and experience with chainsaw operation and tree felling. If you are a beginner, start with smaller trees and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
2. Invest in the Right Tools: Purchase a high-quality chainsaw, such as the Stihl MS 660, and the necessary safety equipment.
3. Practice Safe Techniques: Practice the techniques described in this guide in a safe and controlled environment. Start with smaller trees and gradually increase the size as you gain confidence.
4. Seek Professional Guidance: If you are unsure about any aspect of tree felling or firewood production, seek guidance from a qualified professional.
5. Start Small and Scale Up: Begin with a small-scale project and gradually scale up as you gain experience and confidence.

Costs, Material Specs, and Timing Estimates

• Stihl MS 660 Chainsaw: $1,200 – $1,500 (USD)
• Chainsaw Chaps: $100 – $150 (USD)
• Helmet with Face Shield and Hearing Protection: $50 – $100 (USD)
• Splitting Axe: $50 – $100 (USD)
• Hydraulic Log Splitter (20-ton): $1,000 – $2,000 (USD)
• Seasoning Time (Beech Firewood): 6-12 months
• Moisture Content Target (Firewood): Below 20%
• Felling a Large Beech Tree (Experienced Professional): 2-4 hours
• Splitting and Stacking 1 Cord of Firewood: 8-16 hours

Skill Levels Required

• Basic Chainsaw Operation: Beginner
• Tree Felling: Intermediate to Advanced
• Limbing and Bucking: Intermediate
• Splitting and Stacking: Beginner to Intermediate

By following these tips and guidelines, you can safely and efficiently cut large beech trees and produce high-quality firewood. Remember to always prioritize safety and respect the power of the chainsaw. The Stihl MS 660 is a capable tool, but it’s your knowledge and careful execution that will ultimately determine your success. Good luck, and stay safe out there!

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