630 Jonsered Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Firewood Mastery)
Would you rather spend your winter nights shivering, wishing you had prepared better firewood, or relaxing by a crackling fire, knowing you’ve mastered the art of firewood preparation? If you chose the latter, you’re in the right place.
And believe me, I’ve learned a lot. Today, I want to share my hard-earned wisdom, focusing on a true workhorse of a chainsaw: the Jonsered 630. This article isn’t just a review; it’s a deep dive into how you can use this machine to become a firewood maestro.
The Jonsered 630: A Firewood Artisan’s Tool
The Jonsered 630 isn’t the newest chainsaw on the block. In fact, it’s a bit of a legend. This vintage beast is known for its raw power, reliability, and no-nonsense design. It’s the kind of saw that seasoned loggers swear by, and for good reason.
Why the 630? Here’s the inside scoop:
- Powerhouse Performance: The 630 boasts a robust engine that can handle hardwoods like oak and maple without breaking a sweat. I’ve personally felled trees with this saw that would make lesser machines choke and sputter.
- Built to Last: These saws were built with quality in mind. With proper maintenance, a Jonsered 630 can last for decades. I’ve seen models from the ’80s still running strong.
- Simple to Maintain: Unlike some modern chainsaws with their complicated electronics, the 630 is relatively easy to work on. Basic maintenance is straightforward, and parts are still available.
- Ergonomics: While not as ergonomic as some newer saws, the 630 is surprisingly comfortable to use for extended periods. The balance is good, and the vibration dampening system is effective.
Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: how to use this chainsaw to achieve firewood mastery.
Pro Tip #1: Chainsaw Maintenance: Your First Line of Defense
A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. This isn’t just a saying; it’s a golden rule. I’ve seen too many people neglect their saws, only to end up with breakdowns in the middle of a job, or worse, serious injuries.
Key Maintenance Tasks:
- Sharpening the Chain: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more effort to cut, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on the engine. I recommend sharpening your chain after every tank of fuel, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
- Data Point: Studies show that a sharp chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30%. That translates to less time spent cutting and less fuel consumed.
- Cleaning the Air Filter: A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, reducing power and increasing fuel consumption. Clean the air filter after every use, or more often if you’re working in dusty conditions.
- Checking the Spark Plug: A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and poor engine performance. Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it as needed.
- Lubricating the Bar and Chain: Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of the bar and chain. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil, and check the oil level frequently.
- Inspecting the Sprocket: A worn sprocket can damage the chain and reduce cutting efficiency. Inspect the sprocket regularly and replace it as needed.
- Fuel Mixture: The Jonsered 630, being an older 2-stroke engine, requires a specific fuel-to-oil ratio. Typically, this is 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part 2-stroke oil). Always use high-quality 2-stroke oil designed for air-cooled engines.
- Case Study: I once worked with a logger who consistently used the wrong fuel mixture. His Jonsered 630 seized up after only a few months of use, costing him time and money to repair.
- Chain Tension: Ensure the chain has the correct tension. A loose chain can derail, while a chain that’s too tight can overheat and break. You should be able to pull the chain away from the bar slightly, but it shouldn’t sag excessively.
My Personal Experience:
I remember one particularly cold winter day, I was cutting firewood deep in the woods. My Jonsered 630 started acting up, refusing to idle properly. I quickly diagnosed the problem: a clogged air filter. After cleaning it with a brush, the saw roared back to life, saving me a long walk back to the truck. This simple act of maintenance prevented a major headache.
Pro Tip #2: Mastering Felling Techniques: Where Safety Meets Efficiency
Felling a tree is a serious business. It’s not something you should take lightly. I’ve seen firsthand the devastating consequences of improper felling techniques.
Key Felling Techniques:
- Planning the Fell: Before you even start the saw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings. Consider the tree’s lean, wind direction, nearby obstacles, and escape routes.
- Data Point: Studies show that proper planning can reduce the risk of felling accidents by up to 50%.
- The Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction the tree will fall. It should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter and angled at 45 degrees.
- The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be slightly higher than the notch cut and leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
- The Hinge: The hinge is the remaining wood between the notch cut and the back cut. It acts as a guide, controlling the direction and speed of the fall.
- Escape Routes: Before making the final cut, clear two escape routes at 45-degree angles away from the direction of the fall.
- Using Wedges: For larger trees, or trees that are leaning in the wrong direction, use felling wedges to help guide the fall.
- The Importance of “Timber!”: Always shout “Timber!” loudly and clearly before the tree begins to fall, giving anyone in the area ample warning.
Wood Species and Felling:
The type of wood you’re felling also plays a role. Hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and require more power to cut than softwoods like pine and fir. They also tend to be more unpredictable in their fall, so extra caution is needed.
- Oak: Known for its strength and durability, oak is a prized firewood. However, it can be heavy and difficult to split.
- Maple: Another excellent firewood choice, maple burns hot and clean. It’s also relatively easy to split.
- Pine: Pine is a softwood that ignites easily and burns quickly. It’s a good choice for starting fires but doesn’t provide long-lasting heat.
- Birch: Birch is a beautiful wood with a distinctive bark. It burns well but can be prone to rot if not properly seasoned.
My Close Call:
I once misjudged the lean of a tree and nearly had it fall on me. I was lucky to escape with only a few scratches. That experience taught me a valuable lesson: never underestimate the power of nature.
Pro Tip #3: Bucking and Splitting: From Tree to Firewood
Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths and split it. This is where the Jonsered 630 really shines.
Bucking Techniques:
- Choose the Right Length: The length of your firewood will depend on the size of your fireplace or wood stove. A good rule of thumb is to cut the wood slightly shorter than the firebox.
- Support the Log: When bucking a log, make sure it’s properly supported to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use a sawbuck or other support to elevate the log.
- Cut from the Top: When possible, cut from the top of the log to avoid pinching the saw.
- Use a Cant Hook: A cant hook is a useful tool for rolling and positioning logs.
Splitting Techniques:
- Choose the Right Tool: For smaller logs, a maul or splitting axe is sufficient. For larger logs, a hydraulic log splitter is a must.
- Aim for the Center: When splitting a log, aim for the center. This is usually the easiest point to split.
- Use Wedges: For particularly tough logs, use splitting wedges to help break them apart.
- Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood.
The Art of Splitting:
Splitting wood isn’t just about brute force; it’s about technique. Learn to read the grain of the wood and identify weak points. A well-placed swing can split even the toughest log with ease.
- Hydraulic Log Splitters: These machines use hydraulic pressure to force a log against a splitting wedge. They are available in a variety of sizes and power levels, from small electric models to large gas-powered units.
- Data Point: A hydraulic log splitter can split up to 10 times more wood per hour than manual splitting.
- Manual Splitting Tools: Mauls, splitting axes, and wedges are essential tools for manual splitting. Choose tools that are comfortable to use and appropriate for the size of the logs you’re splitting.
My Splitting Strategy:
I like to start by splitting the easier logs first, to get into a rhythm. Then, I tackle the tougher ones, using wedges and my hydraulic log splitter. I find that this approach helps me stay motivated and avoid fatigue.
Pro Tip #4: Seasoning Firewood: Patience is a Virtue
Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it out to reduce its moisture content. This is crucial for efficient burning and reducing smoke.
Why Season Firewood?
- Better Burning: Dry firewood burns hotter and cleaner than green firewood.
- Less Smoke: Green firewood produces a lot of smoke, which can be harmful to your health and the environment.
- Reduced Creosote Buildup: Creosote is a flammable substance that can build up in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire. Dry firewood produces less creosote.
- Increased Heat Output: Dry firewood releases more heat than green firewood.
How to Season Firewood:
- Split the Wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area, allowing it to dry faster.
- Stack it Properly: Stack the wood in a single row, with space between the pieces for air circulation.
- Elevate the Stack: Elevate the stack off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
- Cover the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
- Be Patient: Seasoning firewood takes time. Allow at least six months for softwoods and one year for hardwoods.
- Data Point: Properly seasoned firewood can have a moisture content of 20% or less, compared to 50% or more for green firewood.
Wood Species and Seasoning:
Different wood species require different seasoning times. Softwoods like pine dry faster than hardwoods like oak.
- Pine: Can be seasoned in as little as six months.
- Maple: Requires at least one year of seasoning.
- Oak: Needs at least two years of seasoning for optimal burning.
My Seasoning Setup:
I have a designated area in my backyard for seasoning firewood. I stack the wood on pallets, cover it with a tarp, and allow it to dry for at least a year. I also use a moisture meter to check the moisture content before burning it.
Pro Tip #5: Safety First: A Mindset, Not Just a Rule
Safety is paramount when working with chainsaws and processing firewood. I can’t stress this enough. I’ve seen too many accidents that could have been prevented with a little common sense and attention to detail.
Key Safety Precautions:
- Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
- Inspect Your Equipment: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw and other tools for any signs of damage or wear.
- Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from other people when operating a chainsaw or splitting wood.
- Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards, such as uneven terrain, overhead branches, and wildlife.
- Take Breaks: Fatigue can lead to accidents. Take frequent breaks to rest and rehydrate.
- Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to fell trees or split logs that are beyond your capabilities.
- Never Work Alone: It’s always safer to work with a partner, especially when felling trees.
- First Aid: Keep a well-stocked first-aid kit on hand and know how to use it.
- Chain Saw Kickback: Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar. It’s a leading cause of chainsaw injuries. Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
- Data Point: Kickback accounts for approximately 25% of all chainsaw injuries.
My Safety Philosophy:
I believe that safety is a mindset. It’s about being aware of the risks and taking steps to mitigate them. It’s about respecting the power of the tools you’re using and understanding the potential consequences of your actions.
A Final Word:
The Jonsered 630 is a fantastic chainsaw for firewood preparation. But it’s just a tool. It’s up to you to use it safely and responsibly. By following these pro tips, you can master the art of firewood preparation and enjoy warm, cozy fires all winter long. Remember, respect the wood, respect the tool, and respect yourself. Now, get out there and make some firewood!
