395xp Husqvarna Chainsaw (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Wood Cutting)

The Husqvarna 395XP: 5 Expert Tips for Optimal Wood Cutting

One of the things I appreciate most about the Husqvarna 395XP is its relative ease of maintenance. While it’s a powerful machine designed for demanding tasks, keeping it in top condition doesn’t require a PhD in chainsaw mechanics. Simple, regular care – like cleaning the air filter, checking the chain tension, and ensuring proper lubrication – goes a long way. This focus on maintainability, combined with its raw power, makes it a favorite among professionals and serious hobbyists alike.

The Husqvarna 395XP is a beast of a chainsaw. It’s designed for felling large trees, bucking thick logs, and generally tackling the toughest wood-cutting jobs you can throw at it. Whether you’re a professional logger, a firewood entrepreneur, or simply someone who heats their home with wood, understanding how to get the most out of this saw is crucial. In this guide, I’ll share five expert tips that I’ve learned over years of experience using the 395XP, focusing on optimal wood cutting performance, safety, and longevity.

Understanding the Husqvarna 395XP

Before diving into the tips, let’s get familiar with the basics. The Husqvarna 395XP is a professional-grade chainsaw known for its high power output, durability, and reliability. It typically features a 93.6cc engine, delivering significant torque for cutting through dense hardwoods and large diameter trees.

Key Specs:

• Engine Displacement: 93.6 cc
• Power Output: 4.9 kW / 6.6 hp
• Recommended Bar Length: 20″ – 36″ (50-90 cm)
• Weight (without bar and chain): 7.5 kg / 16.5 lbs

Key Concepts:

• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and contains a high moisture content (often 50% or more). It’s heavier, harder to split, and burns poorly. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has been air-dried to reduce its moisture content (ideally below 20%). It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns much more efficiently.
• Bucking: Cutting a felled tree into shorter, manageable lengths (logs).
• Felling: The process of cutting down a tree.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain divided by two.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove.

Tip #1: Mastering Chain Selection and Maintenance

The chain is the heart of any chainsaw, and selecting the right chain for the job is critical for optimal performance. With the 395XP, you have the power to run a variety of chains, but understanding their differences is essential.

Chain Types:

• Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that provide aggressive cutting action. They are ideal for clean wood and experienced users. They are more prone to kickback and require more frequent sharpening.
• Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters that are more forgiving and less prone to kickback. They are a good all-around choice for various types of wood and users.
• Low-Profile: These chains are designed for safety and reduced kickback. They are often used by beginners and for limbing smaller branches.

My Recommendation: For most applications with the 395XP, I prefer a full chisel chain for its aggressive cutting speed when working with clean, seasoned hardwoods. However, if I’m working in an area with dirt or debris, or if I’m dealing with mixed wood types, I’ll switch to a semi-chisel chain for its durability and versatility.

Chain Maintenance:

• Sharpening: A sharp chain is crucial for efficient cutting and safety. A dull chain requires more force, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on the saw. I sharpen my chains regularly using a file and guide, maintaining the correct angles for optimal performance. Investing in a good quality chainsaw sharpening kit is essential. I personally use a Stihl 2-in-1 filing guide as it keeps the depth gauge and cutter at the correct angle.
• Tensioning: Proper chain tension is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A loose chain can derail, while a tight chain can overheat and wear prematurely. I check the chain tension before each use and adjust it as needed, ensuring that the chain can be pulled slightly away from the guide bar but remains snug.
• Lubrication: The chain needs constant lubrication to prevent overheating and wear. I always use a high-quality bar and chain oil and ensure that the oiler is functioning correctly. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. A common issue is a blocked oiler hole which can be cleared with a small piece of wire.
• Cleaning: After each use, I clean the chain and guide bar with a brush and solvent to remove sawdust and debris. This helps to prevent corrosion and extends the life of the chain.

Case Study: I once worked on a project felling oak trees that had been standing dead for several years. The wood was extremely hard and dry, and my initial attempt with a dull chain was a disaster. The saw bogged down, and I was making very slow progress. After sharpening the chain and switching to a full chisel chain, the difference was night and day. The saw sliced through the wood with ease, and I was able to complete the project much more quickly and safely.

Tip #2: Optimizing Bar Length and Cutting Techniques

The bar length you choose for your 395XP will significantly impact its performance and maneuverability. While the saw can handle bars up to 36″, it’s important to select a length that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’re felling and the type of work you’re doing.

Bar Length Selection:

• Smaller Trees (up to 20″ diameter): A 20″ or 24″ bar is sufficient and provides good maneuverability.
• Medium Trees (20″ – 30″ diameter): A 28″ or 32″ bar is a good choice.
• Large Trees (over 30″ diameter): A 36″ bar may be necessary, but be aware that it will reduce the saw’s maneuverability and require more power.

Cutting Techniques:

• Felling: Proper felling techniques are crucial for safety and efficiency. I always assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards. I use a combination of the undercut and back cut to control the direction of the fall. Remember to use wedges to prevent the bar from pinching and to help direct the fall.
• Bucking: When bucking logs, I use a variety of techniques to avoid pinching the bar. These include using a sawhorse, supporting the log with other pieces of wood, and making strategic cuts to relieve tension.
• Limbing: Limbing can be dangerous, as branches can spring back and injure the operator. I always stand to the side of the branch I’m cutting and use a firm grip on the saw. Be aware of overhead hazards and avoid cutting branches that are under tension.
• The Bore Cut: A bore cut is a technique used to remove a section of wood from the center of a log, often used to relieve tension or to create a hinge for felling. It involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood and then pivoting the saw to create a hole. This technique requires skill and experience, as it can be dangerous if not performed correctly.

Strategic Advantages: Using the correct bar length not only improves cutting efficiency but also reduces fatigue. A shorter bar is easier to handle for smaller tasks, while a longer bar allows you to fell larger trees without bending over as much. Mastering different cutting techniques is essential for safety and for maximizing the saw’s performance in various situations.

Example: I was once tasked with felling a large oak tree that was leaning precariously over a building. The tree was about 36″ in diameter, so I used my 36″ bar. However, due to the lean, I had to be extremely careful to control the direction of the fall. I used wedges and a pulling rope to ensure that the tree fell away from the building. The bore cut was essential to create a hinge and direct the fall. It was a challenging job, but with careful planning and precise cutting techniques, I was able to fell the tree safely and without damaging the building.

Tip #3: Fuel and Oil Management for Peak Performance

The Husqvarna 395XP is a two-stroke engine, which means it requires a mixture of gasoline and oil. Using the correct fuel and oil mixture is crucial for engine performance and longevity.

Fuel Mixture:

• I always use a high-quality gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher.
• I mix the gasoline with a two-stroke oil specifically designed for chainsaws. I follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the mixing ratio, which is typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil). Premixed fuel can be used but is often more expensive.
• I use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the gasoline from breaking down and gumming up the carburetor, especially when storing the saw for extended periods.

Oil Selection:

• I use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. This oil is formulated to provide excellent lubrication and prevent wear on the chain and guide bar.
• I avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the saw.
• In cold weather, I use a winter-grade bar and chain oil, which is thinner and flows more easily.

Fuel Storage:

• I store gasoline in a clean, airtight container that is specifically designed for fuel storage.
• I label the container clearly with the date and contents.
• I store the fuel in a cool, dry place away from heat and sparks.

Data and Insights: Over time, I’ve noticed that using high-quality fuel and oil not only improves the saw’s performance but also reduces the need for repairs. Cheaper fuels and oils can lead to carbon buildup in the engine, clogged carburetors, and premature wear on the chain and guide bar.

Original Case Study: A colleague of mine consistently used low-grade fuel and cheap bar oil in his 395XP to save money. Within a year, his saw started experiencing performance issues, including difficulty starting, reduced power, and excessive smoking. Eventually, he had to take the saw to a repair shop, where he was told that the engine was heavily carboned up and the carburetor was clogged. The repair cost him several hundred dollars, which far outweighed the money he had saved by using cheaper fuel and oil.

Tip #4: Safety First: Gear, Techniques, and Awareness

Operating a chainsaw is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be the top priority. I never operate my 395XP without wearing the appropriate safety gear and following safe cutting techniques.

Safety Gear:

• Helmet: A helmet with a face shield and ear protection is essential to protect your head, face, and ears from flying debris and noise.
• Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, I always wear safety glasses to provide additional protection for my eyes.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are extremely loud, and prolonged exposure to noise can damage your hearing. I always wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect my ears.
• Gloves: Gloves provide a better grip on the saw and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are made of ballistic nylon and are designed to stop the chain in the event of a kickback. They are essential for protecting your legs from serious injury.
• Boots: Steel-toed boots provide protection for your feet and ankles.

Safe Cutting Techniques:

• Kickback Awareness: Kickback is the sudden, uncontrolled movement of the saw bar towards the operator. It can be caused by the tip of the bar contacting a solid object or by pinching the chain. I always avoid cutting with the tip of the bar and am aware of the potential for kickback.
• Secure Footing: I always maintain a secure footing and avoid cutting in awkward positions.
• Clear Work Area: I clear the work area of any obstacles that could cause me to trip or lose my balance.
• Two-Handed Grip: I always use a two-handed grip on the saw, keeping my thumbs wrapped around the handles.
• Never Overreach: I never overreach or cut above shoulder height.
• Proper Stance: Keep your weight balanced and your feet firmly planted. Avoid twisting your body while cutting.
• Fatigue Management: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.

Statistics and Strategic Advantages: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause tens of thousands of injuries each year. Many of these injuries could be prevented by wearing the appropriate safety gear and following safe cutting techniques. Investing in quality safety gear is a small price to pay for protecting yourself from serious injury.

Personalized Experience: I once witnessed a colleague suffer a serious chainsaw injury because he wasn’t wearing chaps. He was felling a small tree when the saw kicked back and struck his leg. The chain cut through his pants and into his flesh, requiring emergency medical attention and a lengthy recovery. This experience reinforced the importance of always wearing the appropriate safety gear, no matter how small or routine the job may seem.

Tip #5: Proper Storage and Long-Term Maintenance

Proper storage and long-term maintenance are essential for keeping your Husqvarna 395XP in top condition and extending its lifespan.

Storage:

• Cleaning: Before storing the saw, I clean it thoroughly to remove sawdust, dirt, and debris.
• Fuel System: I drain the fuel tank or add a fuel stabilizer to prevent the gasoline from breaking down and gumming up the carburetor.
• Chain and Bar: I remove the chain and guide bar and clean them with a solvent. I sharpen the chain and lubricate the guide bar before storing them.
• Spark Plug: I remove the spark plug and inspect it for wear or damage. I clean the spark plug and gap it to the manufacturer’s specifications before reinstalling it.
• Air Filter: I clean the air filter with compressed air or replace it if necessary.
• Storage Location: I store the saw in a clean, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.

Long-Term Maintenance:

• Regular Inspections: I regularly inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage, such as loose screws, cracked hoses, or worn bearings.
• Carburetor Adjustment: I adjust the carburetor as needed to ensure that the engine is running smoothly and efficiently.
• Spark Arrestor: I clean the spark arrestor screen regularly to prevent it from becoming clogged and restricting exhaust flow.
• Professional Servicing: I take the saw to a qualified service technician for regular maintenance and repairs.

Cost and Timing Estimates: A basic tune-up for a chainsaw typically costs between $50 and $100, while more extensive repairs can cost several hundred dollars. Regular maintenance can help to prevent costly repairs and extend the life of the saw.

Strategic Advantages: By following these storage and maintenance tips, you can keep your Husqvarna 395XP in top condition for years to come. This will not only save you money on repairs but also ensure that the saw is always ready to perform when you need it.

Implementation Guidance: Create a checklist of maintenance tasks and perform them on a regular basis. Keep a log of all maintenance and repairs performed on the saw. This will help you to track the saw’s performance and identify any potential problems before they become serious.

Next Steps:

Now that you’ve learned these five expert tips, it’s time to put them into practice. Start by inspecting your chainsaw and making sure that it’s in good working condition. Sharpen the chain, check the fuel and oil levels, and ensure that all safety features are functioning properly. Then, head out to the woods and start cutting! Remember to always prioritize safety and follow safe cutting techniques.

By following these tips and practicing regularly, you’ll be able to get the most out of your Husqvarna 395XP and tackle any wood-cutting job with confidence. The 395XP is a fantastic tool when used correctly, and with proper care and attention, it will serve you well for many years. Good luck, and happy cutting!

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