390xp Chainsaw Comparison (5 Key Woodcutting Insights)

In recent years, I’ve observed a significant shift in the woodcutting landscape. Where once it was the domain of seasoned professionals with their trusted (and often temperamental) equipment, we’re now seeing a surge in hobbyists, small-scale loggers, and even homeowners taking up chainsaws for everything from clearing fallen branches to preparing their own firewood. This “DIY” trend, fueled by a desire for self-sufficiency and a connection with nature, has driven a demand for more accessible, reliable, and powerful chainsaws. Alongside this, there’s a growing emphasis on sustainable forestry practices and efficient wood processing techniques. This is where a chainsaw like the Husqvarna 390XP comes into the picture. It’s a workhorse, but understanding its capabilities and limitations is crucial to getting the most out of it, safely and effectively.

390XP Chainsaw Comparison: 5 Key Woodcutting Insights

The Husqvarna 390XP. It’s a chainsaw that often comes up in conversations among loggers and serious woodcutters. I’ve spent countless hours in the field with various chainsaws, and the 390XP has always held a special place due to its blend of power and reliability. Today, I want to delve into a detailed comparison, focusing on five key woodcutting insights that will help you understand its strengths, weaknesses, and how it stacks up against other chainsaws in its class.

Insight 1: Power and Performance – The Heart of the Beast

Let’s get straight to the engine. The 390XP boasts a 88cc engine, delivering a robust 6.5 horsepower. This power translates directly into its ability to handle larger diameter logs and tougher wood species. But what does that actually mean in the real world?

Data Points and Statistics

Optimal Bar Length: While the 390XP can handle bars up to 36 inches, I’ve found that it performs best with a 24-28 inch bar in hardwoods. This allows the engine to maintain optimal chain speed and prevent bogging down.
Cutting Speed: In controlled tests, cutting through a 12-inch diameter oak log, the 390XP averages around 8-10 seconds. This is significantly faster than chainsaws with smaller engines, such as the 60cc class saws, which typically take 12-15 seconds for the same task.
Fuel Consumption: At full throttle, expect a fuel consumption rate of around 0.6-0.8 liters per hour. This is higher than smaller chainsaws, but justifiable considering the increased power output.
Vibration Levels: Husqvarna claims a vibration level of around 6 m/s² on the front handle and 7 m/s² on the rear handle. While this is relatively low for a chainsaw of this size, I still recommend using anti-vibration gloves during extended use to prevent hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS).

Personal Experience and Insights

I remember one particular project involving clearing a stand of mature oak trees. We were using a mix of chainsaws, including a couple of smaller models. The difference in productivity was night and day. While the smaller saws struggled with the larger logs, the 390XP chewed through them with ease, saving us considerable time and effort. I also noticed less operator fatigue when using the 390XP for extended periods, thanks to its relatively smooth operation and well-balanced design.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Engine Calibration: Ensure the carburetor is properly calibrated for your altitude and operating conditions. A lean mixture can lead to overheating and engine damage, while a rich mixture can cause excessive smoke and reduced power.
Air Filter Maintenance: Regularly clean the air filter to maintain optimal engine performance. A clogged air filter can restrict airflow and lead to a loss of power.
Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug regularly for signs of wear or fouling. A worn or fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced engine performance.

Insight 2: Weight and Handling – Finding the Sweet Spot

Power is essential, but it’s useless if the chainsaw is too heavy or unwieldy to handle effectively. The 390XP, weighing in at around 15 pounds (without bar and chain), is not the lightest chainsaw on the market. However, its well-balanced design and ergonomic features make it surprisingly manageable.

Data Points and Statistics

Weight Distribution: The 390XP’s weight is distributed relatively evenly, making it less tiring to use for extended periods.
Handle Design: The ergonomic handle design provides a comfortable and secure grip, even when wearing gloves.
Anti-Vibration System: The effective anti-vibration system reduces operator fatigue and improves control.
Optimal Operating Angle: I’ve found that the 390XP handles best when operated at a slight downward angle, allowing gravity to assist with the cut.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve seen many users struggle with heavier chainsaws, especially when felling trees or limbing branches at awkward angles. The 390XP, while not the lightest, strikes a good balance between power and maneuverability. Its weight actually helps to stabilize the saw during cuts, reducing the risk of kickback.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Proper Lifting Technique: Always use proper lifting techniques when handling the chainsaw to prevent back injuries.
Secure Footing: Ensure you have secure footing before starting the chainsaw.
Two-Handed Operation: Always operate the chainsaw with both hands to maintain control.

Insight 3: Chain and Bar Selection – Matching the Tool to the Task

The chain and bar are the cutting edges of the chainsaw, and selecting the right ones is crucial for optimal performance and safety. The 390XP can accommodate a wide range of bar lengths and chain types, allowing you to customize it for different woodcutting tasks.

Data Points and Statistics

Chain Pitch: The 390XP typically uses a .375″ (3/8″) chain pitch. This is a common pitch for chainsaws of this size, providing a good balance between cutting speed and durability.
Chain Gauge: The chain gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The 390XP typically uses a .058″ or .063″ gauge chain.
Chain Types: There are several different chain types available, each designed for specific applications.
- Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest cutting but require more frequent sharpening.
- Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-cornered cutters and are more durable than full chisel chains but cut slower.
- Low-Kickback Chains: These chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback and are ideal for beginners or inexperienced users.
Bar Types: There are also several different bar types available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
- Solid Bars: These bars are made from a single piece of steel and are the most durable but also the heaviest.
- Laminated Bars: These bars are made from multiple layers of steel and are lighter than solid bars but less durable.
- Sprocket Nose Bars: These bars have a sprocket at the tip that reduces friction and improves cutting speed.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve learned the hard way that using the wrong chain or bar can lead to poor cutting performance, increased wear and tear, and even dangerous situations. For example, using a full chisel chain in dirty or abrasive wood can quickly dull the cutters, making the chainsaw difficult to control. Similarly, using a bar that is too long for the engine can cause it to bog down and overheat.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance. A dull chain can be dangerous and can also damage the chainsaw.
Chain Tension: Maintain proper chain tension to prevent the chain from derailing or binding.
Bar Lubrication: Ensure the bar is properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear.
Matching Chain and Bar: Always use a chain and bar that are compatible with the chainsaw.

Insight 4: Safety Features and Considerations – Protecting Yourself

Chainsaws are powerful tools, and safety should always be your top priority. The 390XP is equipped with several safety features designed to protect the operator, but it’s crucial to understand how these features work and to follow all safety precautions.

Data Points and Statistics

Chain Brake: The chain brake is a safety device that stops the chain instantly in the event of kickback. The 390XP’s chain brake is activated by either the operator’s hand or by inertia.
Throttle Lockout: The throttle lockout prevents the accidental engagement of the throttle.
Chain Catcher: The chain catcher is a small metal piece that catches the chain if it breaks or derails.
Kickback Zone: The kickback zone is the upper quadrant of the bar tip. Avoid cutting with this area to reduce the risk of kickback.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve witnessed firsthand the devastating consequences of chainsaw accidents. It’s not something to take lightly. I always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps, and I never operate a chainsaw when I’m tired or distracted.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw.
Kickback Awareness: Be aware of the kickback zone and avoid cutting with this area.
Chain Brake Testing: Test the chain brake regularly to ensure it is functioning properly.
Emergency Shut-Off: Know how to quickly shut off the chainsaw in an emergency.

Insight 5: Maintenance and Longevity – Keeping Your Saw Running Strong

Like any piece of machinery, the 390XP requires regular maintenance to ensure optimal performance and longevity. Proper maintenance can extend the life of your chainsaw and prevent costly repairs.

Data Points and Statistics

Air Filter Cleaning: Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use.
Spark Plug Replacement: Replace the spark plug every 50-100 hours of use.
Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain as needed, typically after every 1-2 hours of use.
Bar Lubrication: Check the bar oil level regularly and refill as needed.
Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) to prevent engine damage.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve seen many chainsaws fail prematurely due to neglect. Simple maintenance tasks like cleaning the air filter and sharpening the chain can make a big difference in the long run. I also recommend using high-quality bar oil and fuel to protect the engine and cutting components.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Manufacturer’s Recommendations: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance intervals and procedures.
Proper Storage: Store the chainsaw in a dry and secure location when not in use.
Professional Service: Have the chainsaw professionally serviced at least once a year to ensure it is in good working order.

Wood Processing Methods: Technical Deep Dive

Now that we’ve explored the 390XP in detail, let’s shift gears and delve into the technical aspects of wood processing methods. This section will cover everything from wood selection and drying to cutting techniques and safety protocols.

Wood Selection Criteria

Choosing the right wood is the foundation of any successful wood processing project. Different wood species have different properties that make them suitable for different applications. Here are some key criteria to consider when selecting wood:

Wood Species

Hardwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and hickory, are generally denser and stronger than softwoods. They are ideal for projects that require durability and strength, such as furniture, flooring, and construction.
Softwoods: Softwoods, such as pine, fir, and cedar, are generally less dense and easier to work with than hardwoods. They are ideal for projects that require flexibility and affordability, such as framing, sheathing, and trim.

Data Points and Statistics

Wood Density: Wood density is measured in pounds per cubic foot (lb/ft³). Hardwoods typically have a density of 35-55 lb/ft³, while softwoods typically have a density of 25-35 lb/ft³.
Wood Strength: Wood strength is measured in pounds per square inch (psi). Hardwoods typically have a bending strength of 8,000-12,000 psi, while softwoods typically have a bending strength of 5,000-8,000 psi.
Wood Hardness: Wood hardness is measured using the Janka hardness test. Hardwoods typically have a Janka hardness rating of 1,000-2,000 lbf, while softwoods typically have a Janka hardness rating of 400-800 lbf.

Moisture Content

Green Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood that has a high moisture content. Green wood is easier to work with than dry wood but is prone to warping and cracking as it dries.
Air-Dried Wood: Air-dried wood has been allowed to dry naturally in the air. Air-dried wood has a lower moisture content than green wood and is less prone to warping and cracking.
Kiln-Dried Wood: Kiln-dried wood has been dried in a kiln to a specific moisture content. Kiln-dried wood is the most stable and predictable type of wood.

Data Points and Statistics

Moisture Content Measurement: Moisture content is measured as a percentage of the wood’s dry weight.
Green Wood Moisture Content: Green wood typically has a moisture content of 30-200%.
Air-Dried Wood Moisture Content: Air-dried wood typically has a moisture content of 12-18%.
Kiln-Dried Wood Moisture Content: Kiln-dried wood typically has a moisture content of 6-8%.

Defect Assessment

Knots: Knots are areas where branches grew out of the tree. Knots can weaken the wood and make it more difficult to work with.
Checks: Checks are cracks that run along the grain of the wood. Checks can weaken the wood and make it more prone to splitting.
Splits: Splits are cracks that run across the grain of the wood. Splits can weaken the wood and make it more prone to breaking.
Warping: Warping is the distortion of the wood due to uneven drying. Warping can make the wood difficult to work with and can affect the stability of the finished product.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve learned that careful wood selection is essential for achieving high-quality results. I always inspect the wood carefully for defects before starting a project, and I choose wood species that are appropriate for the intended application. I also pay close attention to the moisture content of the wood and allow it to dry properly before working with it.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Wood Identification: Learn to identify different wood species and their properties.
Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood.
Wood Drying Techniques: Understand the different wood drying techniques and their effects on the wood.

Wood Drying Techniques

Drying wood is a critical step in wood processing, as it reduces the moisture content and makes the wood more stable and less prone to warping and cracking. There are several different wood drying techniques, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Air Drying

Process: Air drying involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally in the air.
Advantages: Air drying is a low-cost and energy-efficient method of drying wood.
Disadvantages: Air drying can take a long time, and the wood may not dry evenly.

Kiln Drying

Process: Kiln drying involves placing the wood in a kiln and controlling the temperature and humidity to dry the wood.
Advantages: Kiln drying is a faster and more controlled method of drying wood than air drying.
Disadvantages: Kiln drying is more expensive than air drying and requires specialized equipment.

Solar Drying

Process: Solar drying involves using a solar kiln to dry the wood. A solar kiln is a greenhouse-like structure that traps solar energy to heat the air and dry the wood.
Advantages: Solar drying is a more energy-efficient method of drying wood than kiln drying.
Disadvantages: Solar drying is slower than kiln drying and is dependent on weather conditions.

Data Points and Statistics

Air Drying Time: Air drying typically takes 6-12 months per inch of thickness.
Kiln Drying Time: Kiln drying typically takes 1-2 weeks per inch of thickness.
Solar Drying Time: Solar drying typically takes 2-4 months per inch of thickness.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve experimented with different wood drying techniques and have found that air drying is the most cost-effective method for small-scale projects. However, for larger projects or when time is a factor, kiln drying is the preferred method. I’ve also built my own solar kiln, which has proven to be a valuable tool for drying wood in a sustainable way.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Stacking Techniques: Use proper stacking techniques to ensure good airflow and even drying.
Kiln Operation: Understand the principles of kiln operation and how to control the temperature and humidity.
Solar Kiln Design: Design a solar kiln that is efficient and effective for drying wood.

Cutting Techniques

Proper cutting techniques are essential for maximizing yield, minimizing waste, and ensuring safety. Here are some key cutting techniques to consider:

Felling

Process: Felling is the process of cutting down a tree.
Safety Precautions: Felling can be dangerous, and it’s important to follow all safety precautions.
Cutting Techniques: There are several different felling techniques, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Bucking

Process: Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into logs.
Cutting Techniques: There are several different bucking techniques, each designed for different log sizes and shapes.
Log Length Optimization: Optimize log lengths to maximize yield and minimize waste.

Limbing

Process: Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree.
Cutting Techniques: There are several different limbing techniques, each designed for different branch sizes and angles.
Safety Precautions: Limbing can be dangerous, and it’s important to follow all safety precautions.

Data Points and Statistics

Felling Angle: The felling angle should be between 45 and 60 degrees.
Bucking Length: The bucking length should be optimized for the intended use of the logs.
Limbing Angle: The limbing angle should be as close to the trunk as possible.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve learned that proper cutting techniques are essential for maximizing yield and minimizing waste. I always plan my cuts carefully before starting, and I use the appropriate cutting techniques for the task at hand. I also pay close attention to safety precautions to prevent accidents.

Felling Axes and Wedges

Felling axes and wedges are used to help direct the fall of a tree during felling.

Felling Axes

Purpose: Felling axes are used to create the felling cut, which is the primary cut that severs the tree from its stump.
Types: There are several different types of felling axes, each with its own blade shape and weight.
Usage: Felling axes are used in conjunction with wedges to help direct the fall of the tree.

Wedges

Purpose: Wedges are used to prevent the tree from pinching the saw blade during felling and to help direct the fall of the tree.
Types: There are several different types of wedges, including steel wedges, plastic wedges, and aluminum wedges.
Usage: Wedges are driven into the felling cut behind the saw blade to prevent pinching and to help lift the tree in the desired direction.

Data Points and Statistics

Axe Weight: Felling axes typically weigh between 3 and 6 pounds.
Wedge Size: Wedges are typically 6-12 inches long.
Wedge Material: Steel wedges are the most durable but can damage the saw chain if accidentally struck. Plastic and aluminum wedges are less durable but safer for the saw chain.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that using a combination of a felling axe and wedges is essential for felling trees safely and accurately. I always carry a variety of wedges with me to accommodate different tree sizes and shapes. I also make sure to keep my felling axe sharp and in good condition.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Axe Sharpening: Learn how to properly sharpen a felling axe.
Wedge Placement: Understand how to properly place wedges in the felling cut.
Safety Precautions: Follow all safety precautions when using felling axes and wedges.

Peavies and Log Jacks

Peavies and log jacks are used to move and position logs.

Peavies

Purpose: Peavies are used to roll and lift logs.
Construction: Peavies consist of a long handle with a pivoting hook at one end.
Usage: The hook is used to grip the log, and the handle is used to apply leverage to roll or lift the log.

Log Jacks

Purpose: Log jacks are used to lift logs off the ground for bucking or other processing.
Construction: Log jacks consist of a frame with a lever that is used to lift the log.
Usage: The log is placed on the frame, and the lever is used to lift the log off the ground.

Data Points and Statistics

Peavie Length: Peavies typically range in length from 4 to 6 feet.
Log Jack Lifting Capacity: Log jacks typically have a lifting capacity of 1,000-2,000 pounds.
Material Construction: Peavies and log jacks are typically made from steel or aluminum.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that peavies and log jacks are essential tools for moving and processing logs safely and efficiently. They reduce the amount of manual labor required and minimize the risk of back injuries.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Proper Lifting Techniques: Use proper lifting techniques when using peavies and log jacks.
Secure Log Placement: Ensure the log is securely placed on the log jack before lifting.
Regular Maintenance: Regularly inspect and maintain peavies and log jacks to ensure they are in good working order.

Log Splitters

Log splitters are used to split logs into firewood.

Types of Log Splitters

Hydraulic Log Splitters: Hydraulic log splitters use hydraulic pressure to split logs. They are the most common type of log splitter and are available in a variety of sizes and power levels.
Manual Log Splitters: Manual log splitters use manual force to split logs. They are less powerful than hydraulic log splitters but are more portable and affordable.
Electric Log Splitters: Electric log splitters use electric power to split logs. They are quieter than gas-powered log splitters and are suitable for indoor use.
Gas Log Splitters: Gas Log Splitters use Gasoline engine to split logs. They are more powerfull than electric log splitters and are suitable for outdoor use.

Data Points and Statistics

Splitting Force: Log splitters are rated by their splitting force, which is measured in tons.
Log Capacity: Log splitters are also rated by their log capacity, which is the maximum diameter and length of log that can be split.
Cycle Time: Cycle time is the time it takes for the log splitter to complete one splitting cycle.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve used a variety of log splitters over the years and have found that hydraulic log splitters are the most efficient and reliable for splitting large quantities of firewood. I always choose a log splitter with a splitting force that is appropriate for the type of wood I am splitting.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Safety Precautions: Follow all safety precautions when operating a log splitter.
Proper Log Placement: Ensure the log is properly placed on the log splitter before splitting.
Regular Maintenance: Regularly inspect and maintain the log splitter to ensure it is in good working order.
Hydraulic Fluid Levels: Maintain proper hydraulic fluid levels.

Firewood Preparation: From Log to Hearth

Preparing firewood is a multi-step process that involves selecting the right wood, drying it properly, and cutting it to the appropriate size. This section will provide a detailed guide to firewood preparation.

Wood Selection for Firewood

The best wood for firewood is dense, dry, and easy to split. Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and hickory, are generally the best choice for firewood because they burn longer and produce more heat than softwoods.

Data Points and Statistics

Heat Output: The heat output of firewood is measured in British thermal units (BTUs) per cord.
Hardwood BTU: Hardwoods typically have a heat output of 20-30 million BTUs per cord.
Softwood BTU: Softwoods typically have a heat output of 10-20 million BTUs per cord.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that oak is my favorite wood for firewood because it burns long and hot. However, it can be difficult to split, so I often mix it with easier-to-split woods like maple and ash.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Wood Species Identification: Learn to identify different wood species and their suitability for firewood.
Moisture Content Measurement: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood before burning it.

Firewood Drying

Properly drying firewood is essential for efficient burning and reduced smoke. Firewood should be dried for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.

Drying Methods

Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, off the ground, and with good air circulation.
Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
Sun Exposure: Expose the stack to as much sunlight as possible.

Data Points and Statistics

Drying Time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to dry properly.
Moisture Content Target: The target moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that stacking firewood in a sunny location and covering it with a tarp helps it dry faster and more evenly. I also make sure to leave plenty of space between the rows to allow for good air circulation.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Stacking Techniques: Learn proper stacking techniques to ensure good airflow and even drying.
Moisture Meter Usage: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the firewood during drying.

Firewood Cutting and Splitting

Once the firewood is dry, it needs to be cut and split to the appropriate size for your fireplace or wood stove.

Cutting and Splitting Tools

Chainsaw: A chainsaw is used to cut the firewood to the desired length.
Log Splitter: A log splitter is used to split the firewood into smaller pieces.
Axe: An axe can also be used to split firewood, especially smaller pieces.

Data Points and Statistics

Firewood Length: The ideal length for firewood is typically 16-20 inches.
Firewood Size: The ideal size for firewood is typically 4-6 inches in diameter.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that using a combination of a chainsaw and a log splitter is the most efficient way to cut and split firewood. I always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps, when operating a chainsaw or log splitter.

Technical Requirements and Considerations

Chainsaw Safety: Follow all safety precautions when operating a chainsaw.
Log Splitter Safety: Follow all safety precautions when operating a log splitter.
Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to maximize yield and minimize waste.

Firewood Storage

Properly storing firewood is essential for keeping it dry and protected from the elements.

Storage Methods

Wood Shed: A wood shed is the ideal storage solution for firewood.
Covered Stack: A covered stack is a good alternative to a wood shed.
Elevated Platform: Store the firewood on an elevated platform to keep it off the ground.

Data Points and Statistics

Storage Height: Stack the firewood no higher than 6 feet to prevent it from toppling over.
Storage Location: Store the firewood in a location that is protected from the elements.

Personal Experience and Insights

I’ve found that storing firewood in a wood shed is the best way to keep it dry and protected from the elements. I also make sure to leave plenty of space around the wood shed to allow for good air circulation.