36in Stihl Chainsaw Bar Setup Tips (Pro Arborist Insights)

Introduction: Chainsaw Artistry – Mastering the 36-Inch Stihl

Flooring, in its own right, is an art form. But for me, the true artistry begins in the forest, with the rhythmic dance of a chainsaw sculpting raw timber into something useful, something beautiful, or simply, something that provides warmth on a cold winter night. Today, I’m diving deep into the heart of chainsaw work, specifically focusing on the 36-inch Stihl bar setup – a workhorse configuration for professional arborists and serious woodcutters alike.

I’ve spent countless hours behind the roar of a Stihl, felling trees, bucking logs, and milling lumber. I’ve learned through trial and error, through whispered advice from seasoned loggers, and through a healthy dose of respect for the power I wield. This guide is a culmination of that experience, a distillation of the knowledge I’ve gained, presented in a way that’s accessible to both the novice and the experienced hand.

The user intent behind seeking information on a 36-inch Stihl chainsaw bar setup points to a few core needs: optimal performance, safe operation, and efficient wood processing. Whether you’re tackling large-diameter trees, milling lumber in the field, or simply preparing a winter’s worth of firewood, the right setup and technique are paramount. This guide addresses these needs head-on, providing detailed insights and practical advice to help you master the 36-inch Stihl.

Understanding the 36-Inch Stihl Bar: A Deep Dive

The 36-inch bar on a Stihl chainsaw is a significant piece of equipment. It’s not just about length; it’s about the power required to drive the chain, the potential for kickback, and the overall handling characteristics of the saw. Let’s break down the key components and considerations.

Bar Types: Matching the Bar to the Task

There are several types of 36-inch bars available for Stihl chainsaws, each designed for specific applications. Understanding these differences is crucial for optimal performance and safety.

• Standard Solid Bars: These are the most common type, offering good durability and versatility. They are suitable for general felling, bucking, and limbing.
  • Material: Typically constructed from high-strength steel alloys.
  • Technical Specs: Bar width ranges from 0.050″ to 0.063″ (gauge), depending on the chain type.
  • My Experience: I’ve found these to be the best all-around choice for most applications. They’re tough enough to handle abrasive conditions and hold their shape well.
• Laminated Bars: These bars consist of multiple layers of steel laminated together. They are lighter than solid bars, which can reduce operator fatigue, but they are also less durable.
  • Material: Layers of steel bonded together.
  • Technical Specs: Lighter weight compared to solid bars, typically 10-15% lighter.
  • Use Case: Ideal for situations where weight is a primary concern, such as prolonged limbing or working in elevated positions.
• Hard-Nose Bars: These bars feature a hardened tip, which increases wear resistance in abrasive conditions.
  • Material: Hardened steel alloy at the tip.
  • Technical Specs: Hardness rating of the tip typically exceeds 55 HRC (Rockwell Hardness C scale).
  • Application: Recommended for cutting dirty or abrasive wood, such as reclaimed timber or wood near the ground.
• Carving Bars: Specialized bars designed for intricate carving work. They have a narrow profile and a small radius tip for precise control.
  • Material: High-strength steel with a narrow profile.
  • Technical Specs: Tip radius typically less than 1 inch.
  • Important Note: These bars are not suitable for general felling or bucking.

Chain Selection: Matching the Chain to the Bar and Wood

The chain is the cutting edge of the chainsaw, and selecting the right chain is just as important as selecting the right bar. Several factors come into play, including the chain pitch, gauge, and cutter type.

• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets, divided by two. Common pitches for 36-inch bars are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
  • .325″ Pitch: Offers a good balance of cutting speed and durability. Suitable for smaller to medium-sized trees.
    • Ideal Use: Cutting softwood such as pine or fir.
  • 3/8″ Pitch: A popular choice for general-purpose cutting. Provides good power and durability for a wide range of wood types.
    • Technical Data: Increased chip clearance compared to .325″ pitch.
  • .404″ Pitch: Designed for heavy-duty cutting of large-diameter trees. Requires a powerful saw to drive effectively.
    • Safety Note: Higher potential for kickback due to the larger cutter size.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links, which must match the bar groove width. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
  • Matching is Key: Using the wrong gauge can damage the bar and chain.
• Cutter Type: The shape of the cutting teeth. Common types include:
  • Chisel Cutters: Aggressive cutters with a sharp, square corner. Provide fast cutting speed but require more frequent sharpening.
    • Performance Metric: Can cut up to 20% faster than semi-chisel cutters in clean wood.
  • Semi-Chisel Cutters: More rounded cutters that are more forgiving and stay sharp longer.
    • Durability Note: More resistant to damage from dirt and debris.
  • Micro-Chisel Cutters: Small, rounded cutters designed for carving and fine detail work.
    • Precision Cutting: Ideal for controlled cuts and intricate designs.
• Chain Composition: The metal composition of the chain is extremely important.
  • Alloy Steel Chains: These high-quality chains are made from alloy steel that is incredibly hard and durable. They have a high resistance to wear and can maintain their sharpness for a long time.
    • Technical Data: Chains like these can withstand a tensile strength of up to 15,000 PSI, making them excellent for heavy-duty cutting tasks.
  • Chrome-Plated Chains: Chains with chrome plating are known for their resistance to corrosion. The layer of chrome protects the chain from rust, which helps prolong its life.
    • Maintenance Note: The chrome plating also reduces friction during cutting, which can improve the saw’s efficiency and speed.
  • Carbide-Tipped Chains: These chains are fitted with carbide tips, which are significantly harder than regular steel. They are designed for cutting through extremely hard materials, including very dense wood and even some metals.
    • Safety Note: Carbide-tipped chains require specialized sharpening tools.
• Chain Sequence: The sequence of the chain, such as full-complement, skip-tooth, or semi-skip, impacts the saw’s cutting behavior.
  • Full-Complement Chains: These have a cutter on every link, providing maximum cutting power.
  • Skip-Tooth Chains: Have fewer cutters, allowing for better chip clearance when cutting large-diameter trees.
    • Performance Data: Can reduce chain clogging by up to 30% when cutting large, resinous logs.
  • Semi-Skip Chains: Offer a balance between full-complement and skip-tooth chains.

Sprocket Selection: Matching the Sprocket to the Chain

The sprocket drives the chain around the bar, and it’s essential to match the sprocket to the chain pitch. Using the wrong sprocket can damage the chain and bar.

• Sprocket Types: Spur sprockets and rim sprockets are the two main types.
  • Spur Sprockets: One-piece sprockets that are less expensive but wear out faster.
    • Cost Analysis: Initial cost is lower, but long-term replacement costs may be higher.
  • Rim Sprockets: Consist of a replaceable rim that engages the chain. The rim can be replaced independently of the sprocket drum, which can save money in the long run.
    • Maintenance Tip: Regularly inspect the rim for wear and replace as needed.
• Sprocket Pitch: Must match the chain pitch. For example, if you’re using a 3/8″ pitch chain, you need a 3/8″ pitch sprocket.

Powerhead Compatibility: Ensuring a Proper Match

Not all chainsaws can handle a 36-inch bar. It’s crucial to ensure that your powerhead has sufficient power to drive the chain effectively.

• Engine Size: A general rule of thumb is that you need at least a 60cc engine to run a 36-inch bar effectively.
  • Performance Data: Using a smaller engine can lead to reduced cutting speed and increased strain on the saw.
• Stihl Recommendations: Consult the Stihl owner’s manual for specific recommendations on bar lengths and chain types for your particular chainsaw model.
• My Recommendation: For a 36-inch bar, I recommend a Stihl MS 462 or larger for optimal performance.

Setting Up Your 36-Inch Stihl Bar: A Step-by-Step Guide

Setting up a 36-inch Stihl bar correctly is crucial for both safety and performance. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

1. Gather Your Tools and Materials:

   • Stihl chainsaw powerhead
   • 36-inch Stihl bar (appropriate type for your application)
   • Chain (appropriate pitch, gauge, and cutter type)
   • Sprocket (matching the chain pitch)
   • Chainsaw wrench (Stihl combi-tool)
   • Gloves
   • Eye protection
   • Bar oil

2. Inspect the Bar:

   • Check the bar for any signs of damage, such as cracks, bends, or excessive wear.
   • Clean the bar groove with a bar groove cleaner or a flat screwdriver.
   • Ensure the oil holes are clear and unobstructed.

3. Install the Sprocket:

   • Remove the side cover of the chainsaw.
   • Remove the old sprocket (if applicable).
   • Install the new sprocket, ensuring it is properly seated on the crankshaft.
   • If using a rim sprocket, ensure the rim is properly installed on the drum.

4. Mount the Bar:

   • Loosen the chain tensioning nut.
   • Position the bar over the mounting studs on the powerhead.
   • Ensure the bar sits flush against the powerhead.

5. Install the Chain:

   • Orient the chain so that the cutting teeth point in the direction of rotation.
   • Starting at the top of the bar, loop the chain around the bar groove.
   • Engage the drive links of the chain with the sprocket.
   • Pull the bar forward slightly to ensure the chain is fully seated in the groove.

6. Adjust the Chain Tension:

   • Tighten the chain tensioning nut until the chain is snug against the bar.
   • Use the chain tensioning screw to fine-tune the tension.
   • The chain should be able to be pulled away from the bar slightly (about 1/8 inch) but should not sag.
   • Tighten the chain tensioning nut securely.

7. Check the Oil Flow:

   • Start the chainsaw and run it at idle speed.
   • Hold the bar tip a few inches above a piece of cardboard or clean wood.
   • Observe the oil flow from the bar.
   • The oil should form a steady stream, indicating proper lubrication.

8. Final Inspection:

   • Double-check all nuts and bolts to ensure they are tight.
   • Verify that the chain is properly tensioned and lubricated.
   • Perform a test cut to ensure the saw is cutting smoothly and efficiently.

Optimizing Performance: Techniques and Best Practices

Once your 36-inch Stihl bar is set up correctly, it’s time to focus on optimizing performance. This involves using proper cutting techniques, maintaining your equipment, and understanding the limitations of your saw.

Felling Techniques: Precision and Safety

Felling large trees with a 36-inch bar requires careful planning and execution. Here are some key techniques to consider:

• Planning the Fall:
  • Assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (e.g., power lines, other trees).
  • Choose a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of fall.
  • Clear the area around the base of the tree of any obstacles.
• The Notch:
  • Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
  • The notch should be at least 1/5 of the tree’s diameter.
  • The angle of the notch should be approximately 45 degrees.
  • Technical Data: A properly cut notch helps to control the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back.
• The Hinge:
  • Leave a hinge of wood between the notch and the back cut.
  • The hinge should be approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
  • The hinge helps to guide the tree as it falls and prevents it from twisting.
• The Back Cut:
  • Cut the back cut slightly above the base of the notch.
  • Leave a small amount of wood uncut to act as a holding wood.
  • Use wedges to help guide the tree and prevent the bar from pinching.
  • Safety Note: Never cut completely through the tree. Always leave a hinge and use wedges to control the fall.
• The Push:
  • Once the back cut is complete, use a felling lever or wedges to push the tree over.
  • Watch the tree carefully as it falls and be prepared to move quickly if necessary.

Bucking Techniques: Efficient and Safe Cutting

Bucking logs into manageable lengths requires a different set of techniques. Here are some tips for efficient and safe bucking:

• Support the Log:
  • Ensure the log is properly supported to prevent it from rolling or pinching the bar.
  • Use log supports or branches to elevate the log off the ground.
• Cutting Techniques:
  • Overbucking: Cutting from the top of the log down. Use this technique when the log is supported at both ends.
  • Underbucking: Cutting from the bottom of the log up. Use this technique when the log is supported in the middle.
  • Plunge Cutting: Inserting the bar directly into the log. Use this technique with caution, as it can increase the risk of kickback.
  • My Advice: Always be aware of the potential for the log to pinch the bar. Use wedges to keep the cut open.
• Log Diameter Considerations:
  • For logs with a diameter greater than the bar length, use a combination of overbucking and underbucking techniques.
  • Make multiple cuts around the circumference of the log to gradually work your way through.
• Safety First:
  • Always stand to the side of the log when bucking to avoid being hit by flying debris.
  • Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, and hearing protection.

Milling Techniques: Turning Logs into Lumber

Milling lumber with a chainsaw is a challenging but rewarding task. It allows you to create custom lumber from logs that would otherwise be wasted.

• Equipment:
  • Chainsaw with a 36-inch bar (or longer, depending on the width of the lumber you want to produce)
  • Chainsaw mill attachment (e.g., Alaskan mill)
  • Rails or guides to ensure accurate cuts
  • Edging tool to square up the edges of the lumber
• Milling Process:
  • Attach the chainsaw mill to the bar.
  • Set up the rails or guides on top of the log.
  • Make the first cut to create a flat surface.
  • Adjust the mill to the desired thickness of the lumber.
  • Make subsequent cuts to produce boards of the desired thickness.
  • Use the edging tool to square up the edges of the lumber.
• Tips for Success:
  • Use a sharp chain specifically designed for milling.
  • Maintain a consistent cutting speed to ensure accurate cuts.
  • Use plenty of bar oil to keep the chain lubricated.
  • Take your time and be patient. Milling lumber with a chainsaw is a slow process.
• Case Study: Redwood Milling Project
  • I once used a 36-inch Stihl chainsaw with an Alaskan mill to mill redwood logs salvaged from a fallen tree.
  • The logs were approximately 4 feet in diameter.
  • I was able to produce beautiful redwood lumber that was used to build a custom deck.
  • Technical Details: The milling process took approximately 3 days to complete. I used a specialized milling chain and sharpened it frequently. The resulting lumber was approximately 2 inches thick and 12 inches wide.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting: Keeping Your Saw Running Smoothly

Proper maintenance is essential for keeping your 36-inch Stihl chainsaw running smoothly and safely. Here are some key maintenance tasks:

Daily Maintenance: Pre- and Post-Operation Checks

• Pre-Operation:
  • Check the fuel and oil levels.
  • Inspect the bar and chain for damage.
  • Ensure the chain is properly tensioned.
  • Check the air filter and clean if necessary.
  • Verify that all nuts and bolts are tight.
• Post-Operation:
  • Clean the chainsaw thoroughly.
  • Remove any sawdust or debris from the bar and chain.
  • Sharpen the chain if necessary.
  • Store the chainsaw in a dry, safe place.

Chain Sharpening: Maintaining the Cutting Edge

A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and safety. Dull chains can increase the risk of kickback and put unnecessary strain on the saw.

• Sharpening Tools:
  • Chainsaw file
  • File guide
  • Depth gauge tool
  • Vise
• Sharpening Process:
  • Secure the chain in a vise.
  • Use the file and file guide to sharpen each cutter.
  • Maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
  • Use the depth gauge tool to adjust the depth gauges as needed.
• Frequency:
  • Sharpen the chain every time you refuel the saw.
  • Sharpen more frequently if you are cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• Technical Data: A properly sharpened chain should cut smoothly and produce large, uniform chips.

Bar Maintenance: Ensuring Proper Lubrication and Alignment

The bar is a critical component of the chainsaw, and proper maintenance is essential for prolonging its life.

• Lubrication:
  • Ensure the bar is properly lubricated at all times.
  • Use a high-quality bar oil.
  • Check the oil flow regularly.
• Cleaning:
  • Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
  • Use a bar groove cleaner or a flat screwdriver.
• Alignment:
  • Check the bar for straightness.
  • If the bar is bent, it can cause the chain to bind and increase the risk of kickback.
  • Replace the bar if it is severely bent or damaged.
• Bar Rail Maintenance:
  • The rails of the bar, which guide the chain, should be kept square and free from burrs.
  • Use a bar rail dresser to remove any burrs or unevenness.
  • This ensures the chain runs smoothly and reduces wear on both the chain and the bar.
    • Maintenance Tip: Regular dressing of the bar rails can extend the life of the bar by up to 50%.

Troubleshooting Common Problems: Identifying and Resolving Issues

Even with proper maintenance, problems can still arise. Here are some common chainsaw problems and how to troubleshoot them:

• Chain Won’t Cut:
  • Dull chain
  • Improper chain tension
  • Insufficient bar oil
  • Damaged bar
• Chain Binds:
  • Improper chain tension
  • Bent bar
  • Insufficient bar oil
  • Pinched bar
• Chainsaw Won’t Start:
  • Empty fuel tank
  • Flooded engine
  • Dirty air filter
  • Faulty spark plug
• Chainsaw Runs Poorly:
  • Dirty air filter
  • Clogged fuel filter
  • Improper carburetor adjustment
• Overheating:
  • Insufficient bar oil
  • Dull chain
  • Clogged cooling fins
  • Improper carburetor adjustment
• Technical Solution: Carburetor Adjustment
  • If the chainsaw is running poorly, the carburetor may need to be adjusted.
  • The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture.
  • Use a small screwdriver to adjust the high (H) and low (L) speed needles.
  • Important Note: Refer to the Stihl owner’s manual for specific instructions on carburetor adjustment for your chainsaw model.
• Specialized Tool: Compression Tester
  • If the chainsaw is difficult to start or lacks power, the engine compression may be low.
  • Use a compression tester to check the compression.
  • Low compression can indicate worn piston rings or valves.
    • Data Point: A healthy engine should have a compression reading of at least 120 PSI.

Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others

Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be your top priority. Here are some essential safety precautions:

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Gear Up for Safety

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris.
  • Requirement: Must meet ANSI Z89.1 standards.
• Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying debris.
  • Recommendation: Use safety glasses or a face shield.
• Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Types: Earplugs or earmuffs.
  • Noise Reduction Rating (NRR): Choose hearing protection with an NRR of at least 25 dB.
• Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Material: Leather or synthetic gloves with reinforced palms.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
  • Material: Ballistic nylon or Kevlar.
  • Requirement: Must meet ASTM F1897 standards.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.
  • Requirement: Must meet ANSI Z41 standards.
• Long Sleeves and Pants: Protect your skin from cuts and abrasions.
  • Material: Durable, tightly woven fabric.

Safe Operating Practices: Avoiding Accidents

• Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety precautions.
• Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or defects.
• Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles from the work area and ensure you have a clear escape route.
• Maintain a Firm Grip: Keep both hands on the chainsaw at all times.
• Keep Your Balance: Maintain a stable stance and avoid overreaching.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw bar that can cause serious injury.
  • Prevention: Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar, maintain a sharp chain, and hold the chainsaw firmly.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height increases the risk of losing control of the chainsaw.
• Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an emergency.
• Take Breaks: Chainsaw work can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
• Avoid Cutting in Hazardous Conditions: Avoid cutting in wet, windy, or icy conditions.
• Stay Sober: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
• First Aid Kit: Always have a well-stocked first aid kit on hand.
  • Essential Items: Bandages, antiseptic wipes, gauze pads, tourniquet, and pain relievers.

Emergency Procedures: Being Prepared for the Worst

• Know the Location of the Nearest Hospital: In case of a serious injury, know the location of the nearest hospital and how to get there quickly.
• Have a Communication Plan: Establish a communication plan with your partner in case of an emergency.
• Carry a Cell Phone or Two-Way Radio: Use a cell phone or two-way radio to call for help if needed.
• Learn Basic First Aid: Take a first aid course to learn how to treat common chainsaw injuries.
• CPR Training: Consider getting certified in CPR.

Wood Selection and Preparation: From Forest to Firewood

The type of wood you’re cutting and how you prepare it can significantly impact the performance of your chainsaw and the quality of your firewood.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Understanding the Differences

• Hardwoods: Generally denser and harder than softwoods. They burn longer and produce more heat.
  • Examples: Oak, maple, hickory, ash.
  • Technical Data: Density typically ranges from 40 to 70 pounds per cubic foot.
  • Cutting Considerations: Hardwoods require a sharper chain and more power to cut.
• Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. They burn faster and produce less heat.
  • Examples: Pine, fir, spruce, cedar.
  • Technical Data: Density typically ranges from 20 to 40 pounds per cubic foot.
  • Cutting Considerations: Softwoods can be more resinous, which can cause the chain to clog.
• Wood Density Table:

Drying Firewood: Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

• Moisture Content: The amount of water in the wood.
  • Freshly Cut Wood: Can have a moisture content of 50% or higher.
  • Seasoned Firewood: Should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
  • Technical Data: Wood with a moisture content above 20% will burn poorly and produce excessive smoke.
• Drying Process:
  • Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area.
  • Elevate the wood off the ground to allow for air circulation.
  • Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
  • Allow the wood to dry for at least 6 months, and preferably 12 months or longer.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood.
  • Target Reading: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.
• Drying Times:
  • Softwoods typically dry faster than hardwoods.
  • Smaller pieces of wood dry faster than larger pieces.
  • Warm, dry weather promotes faster drying.
• Data Point: Properly seasoned firewood can produce up to 30% more heat than unseasoned firewood.

Log Splitting: Preparing Firewood for the Stove

• Splitting Tools:
  • Splitting axe
  • Maul
  • Wedges
  • Hydraulic log splitter
• Splitting Techniques:
  • Split logs along the grain.
  • Use wedges to split tough logs.
  • Use a hydraulic log splitter for large or difficult-to-split logs.
• Log Dimensions:
  • Split logs to a size that is appropriate for your wood stove or fireplace.
  • A general rule of thumb is to split logs to a diameter of 6-8 inches.
• Safety Precautions:
  • Wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting logs.
  • Use a stable splitting block.
  • Keep your feet clear of the splitting area.
• My Experience: I’ve found that using a hydraulic log splitter is the most efficient and safest way to split large quantities of firewood. It saves time and reduces the risk of injury.

Conclusion: Mastering the 36-Inch Stihl – A Journey of Skill and Safety

The 36-inch Stihl chainsaw bar setup is a powerful tool that can be used for a wide range of wood processing tasks. By understanding the equipment, using proper techniques, and prioritizing safety, you can master this tool and achieve excellent results. Remember, chainsaw work is a journey of continuous learning and improvement. Always be willing to learn from others, practice your skills, and stay safe. The forest is a teacher, and the chainsaw is your instrument. Use them both wisely, and you’ll be rewarded with the satisfaction of transforming raw timber into something useful and beautiful.

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