36 Inch Stihl Bar Review (5 Pro Tips For Maximum Efficiency)

The scent of freshly cut wood, the rhythmic roar of a chainsaw, the satisfying crackle of a winter fire – these are the sensory memories that pull me back to my earliest experiences with wood. Growing up, I spent countless hours alongside my grandfather, a seasoned logger with hands as rough as bark and a heart as warm as a hearth fire. He taught me the value of hard work, the importance of respecting nature, and the absolute necessity of having the right tools for the job. One tool, in particular, stands out in my memory – the Stihl chainsaw. It’s a serious piece of equipment, and today, I want to share my insights on how to maximize its efficiency. I’m going to dive deep into my experience with the 36-inch Stihl bar, giving you five pro tips to not just cut wood, but to master it.

36-Inch Stihl Bar Review: 5 Pro Tips for Maximum Efficiency

The 36-inch Stihl bar. It’s a beast. It’s the kind of tool that can make a seasoned logger’s eyes light up and send shivers down the spine of a novice. It’s not just about the length; it’s about the power, the precision, and the potential it unlocks. However, with great power comes great responsibility (and a whole lot of sawdust). So, if you’re considering adding one to your arsenal, or if you’re already wielding one, this review and these tips are for you.

Understanding the 36-Inch Stihl Bar

Before we jump into the tips, let’s clarify what we’re talking about. A 36-inch Stihl bar refers to the length of the cutting portion of the chainsaw bar. This length dictates the maximum diameter of the log you can realistically cut in a single pass. Stihl is a renowned name in the chainsaw world, known for its quality, durability, and performance. The 36-inch bar is typically paired with larger, more powerful Stihl chainsaw models designed for felling large trees, bucking hefty logs, and handling demanding wood processing tasks.

Why Choose a 36-Inch Bar?

The primary reason to opt for a 36-inch bar is the ability to handle larger diameter wood. It significantly increases the range of trees you can fell and the size of logs you can process without resorting to awkward or inefficient cutting techniques. This is particularly valuable in professional logging operations, land clearing, or for individuals who regularly deal with mature trees.

Considerations Before Buying

Chainsaw Power: A 36-inch bar requires a powerful chainsaw engine. A smaller engine will struggle to drive the chain effectively, leading to slow cutting, increased wear and tear, and potential damage to the saw.
User Experience: Handling a chainsaw with a 36-inch bar demands experience and skill. The increased length adds weight and requires greater control, especially when felling trees.
Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and sturdy boots. The longer bar increases the risk of kickback and other hazards.

Pro Tip #1: Mastering the Bore Cut (and Why It Matters)

The bore cut, also known as a plunge cut, is a technique where you insert the tip of the chainsaw bar directly into the wood. It’s a fundamental skill for safely and efficiently felling large trees and bucking oversized logs.

Why is the Bore Cut Important?

Directional Felling: The bore cut allows you to control the direction of the fall with greater precision, crucial for avoiding obstacles and preventing damage.
Stress Relief: In large logs, internal stresses can cause the bar to bind, making cutting difficult and potentially dangerous. The bore cut helps relieve these stresses.
Avoiding Pinching: By boring into the log before making the final cuts, you can prevent the bar from getting pinched, saving you time and frustration.

How to Perform a Bore Cut (Safely!)

Positioning: Ensure you have a stable stance and a clear escape route. Never stand directly behind the tree you’re cutting.
Starting the Cut: With the chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully place the tip of the bar against the wood at a slight angle.
Gradual Entry: Gently pivot the saw downwards, allowing the tip of the bar to gradually enter the wood. Avoid forcing it.
Maintaining Control: Keep a firm grip on the saw and maintain a steady pressure. As the bar enters, adjust the angle to create a small pocket.
Completing the Cut: Once the pocket is deep enough, you can start making the directional cuts necessary for felling or bucking.

Bore Cut Safety Considerations

Kickback Zone: The tip of the chainsaw bar is the most dangerous part, as it’s prone to kickback. Be extremely cautious when performing a bore cut and avoid any contact with knots or other obstructions.
Sharp Chain: A dull chain increases the risk of kickback and makes the bore cut more difficult. Ensure your chain is properly sharpened and maintained.
Experience Required: The bore cut requires practice and experience. Start with smaller logs and gradually increase the size as your skill improves.

I remember one time, felling a massive oak. I skipped the bore cut, thinking I could muscle through it. Big mistake. The tree pinched the bar so hard, it took me nearly an hour to free it. Now, I never skip the bore cut, and I always double-check my escape route.

Pro Tip #2: Chain Selection and Maintenance: The Key to Smooth Cutting

The chainsaw chain is the unsung hero of wood processing. A properly selected and maintained chain can dramatically improve cutting efficiency, reduce wear and tear on your saw, and enhance safety.

Chain Types

Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood. Requires more skill to sharpen and maintain.
Semi-Chisel: More forgiving than full chisel, suitable for a wider range of wood types, including those with dirt or bark.
Low-Profile: Designed for smaller saws, less aggressive cutting, but offers reduced kickback potential.

For a 36-inch bar, I generally recommend a full chisel or semi-chisel chain, depending on the type of wood you’re cutting. Full chisel chains are incredibly efficient in clean, softwood logs, while semi-chisel chains are more versatile for hardwoods and wood with some dirt or bark.

Chain Maintenance

Sharpening: Regular sharpening is crucial. A dull chain requires more force, increases the risk of kickback, and wastes fuel. Learn to sharpen your chain properly or take it to a professional. I personally prefer hand-sharpening with a file and guide, as it gives me more control and allows me to tailor the sharpening to the specific needs of the wood I’m cutting.
Depth Gauge Adjustment: The depth gauges (also known as rakers) control how much wood the chain takes with each pass. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will cut slowly. If they’re too low, the chain will be grabby and increase the risk of kickback. Use a depth gauge tool to ensure they are properly set.
Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is essential for smooth cutting and preventing the chain from derailing. The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
Lubrication: Always use high-quality bar and chain oil. Proper lubrication reduces friction, extends the life of the chain and bar, and prevents overheating.

Chain Data Points

A sharp chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 50%.
Proper chain lubrication can extend the life of the chain and bar by up to 30%.
A chain that is too loose or too tight can cause excessive wear and tear on the saw and increase the risk of chain breakage.

I learned the hard way about chain maintenance. I was cutting some dense oak, and my chain was dull. I kept pushing harder, thinking I could force it through. The chain eventually snapped, sending pieces flying. Luckily, I wasn’t hurt, but it was a valuable lesson. Now, I sharpen my chain religiously, and I always carry a spare.

Pro Tip #3: Leverage and Body Positioning: Working Smarter, Not Harder

Handling a chainsaw with a 36-inch bar requires more than just brute strength. It’s about using leverage, proper body positioning, and smart cutting techniques to minimize fatigue and maximize efficiency.

Leverage

Fulcrum Point: Use the log or the ground as a fulcrum point to help support the weight of the saw. This reduces strain on your arms and back.
Pivoting: Instead of lifting the entire saw, pivot it around the fulcrum point to make your cuts.
Gravity: Let gravity do some of the work for you. Position the log so that gravity assists with the cutting process.

Body Positioning

Stable Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet firmly planted on the ground. This gives you better balance and control.
Straight Back: Keep your back straight and avoid bending at the waist. This reduces the risk of back injuries.
Close to the Saw: Position yourself as close to the saw as possible without compromising your safety. This gives you better control and reduces fatigue.

Smart Cutting Techniques

Cutting from Above: Whenever possible, cut from above the log. This allows gravity to assist with the cutting process and reduces the risk of the bar getting pinched.
Multiple Passes: Don’t try to cut through the entire log in one pass. Make multiple passes, gradually deepening the cut.
Avoid Obstructions: Be aware of any knots, branches, or other obstructions that could cause the bar to bind or kickback.

Body Positioning Data Points

Proper body positioning can reduce fatigue by up to 40%.
Using leverage can reduce the amount of force required to operate the saw by up to 30%.
Cutting from above can reduce the risk of the bar getting pinched by up to 20%.

I used to think logging was all about muscles. I’d try to power through every cut, ending the day with a back that felt like it was going to break. Then, an old-timer showed me the ropes – how to use my body weight, how to let the saw do the work. It changed everything. Now, I can work longer and feel better at the end of the day.

Pro Tip #4: Wood Species and Cutting Strategies: Knowing Your Enemy

Different wood species have different densities, grain patterns, and moisture contents, all of which affect how they cut. Understanding these characteristics is crucial for selecting the right cutting strategies and maximizing efficiency.

Wood Species and Their Characteristics

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Generally easier to cut, lower density, straighter grain.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): More difficult to cut, higher density, often have irregular grain patterns.
Wet Wood: More difficult to cut, higher moisture content increases friction and can cause the bar to bind.
Dry Wood: Can be brittle and prone to splintering, requires a sharp chain and careful cutting techniques.

Cutting Strategies

Softwoods: Can be cut quickly and efficiently with a sharp chain and aggressive cutting techniques.
Hardwoods: Require a slower, more deliberate approach. Use a semi-chisel chain and be prepared to sharpen it more frequently.
Wet Wood: Use a sharp chain and keep the saw at full throttle. Avoid forcing the cut, as this can cause the bar to bind.
Dry Wood: Use a sharp chain and cut at a slight angle to minimize splintering.

Wood Species Data Points

Oak can be up to 50% harder to cut than pine.
Wet wood can increase cutting time by up to 20%.
A dull chain can increase the risk of splintering in dry wood by up to 30%.

I once tried to cut through a massive piece of green oak with a dull chain. It was like trying to cut concrete with a butter knife. I spent hours wrestling with that log, and I barely made a dent. That’s when I realized the importance of knowing your wood and having the right tools.

Pro Tip #5: Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others

Safety should always be your top priority when operating a chainsaw, especially one with a 36-inch bar. The potential for serious injury is significant, so it’s crucial to follow all safety guidelines and take necessary precautions.

Essential Safety Gear

Helmet with Face Shield: Protects your head and face from falling debris and kickback.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Sturdy Boots: Provide ankle support and protect your feet from falling debris.

Safe Operating Practices

Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety features.
Inspect the Saw: Before each use, inspect the saw for any damage or loose parts.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around you of any obstacles or hazards.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from other people.
Never Cut Above Your Head: Cutting above your head is extremely dangerous and should be avoided.
Be Aware of Kickback: Understand the causes of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
Take Breaks: Avoid fatigue by taking regular breaks.
Never Operate Under the Influence: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Safety Data Points

Chainsaw-related injuries account for thousands of emergency room visits each year.
Wearing appropriate safety gear can reduce the risk of injury by up to 80%.
Kickback is a leading cause of chainsaw injuries.

I’ve seen firsthand the devastating consequences of chainsaw accidents. A friend of mine lost a finger because he wasn’t wearing gloves. Another friend suffered a serious leg injury because he wasn’t wearing chaps. These experiences have instilled in me a deep respect for chainsaw safety. I never take shortcuts, and I always prioritize safety above all else.

Bonus Tip: The Importance of a Sharp Axe or Splitting Maul

While this article focuses on the chainsaw, don’t underestimate the value of a good axe or splitting maul. These tools are essential for splitting firewood, removing branches, and performing other tasks that complement chainsaw work.

Axe vs. Splitting Maul

Axe: Designed for chopping and felling trees. Has a sharper, thinner blade.
Splitting Maul: Designed for splitting firewood. Has a heavier, wider head.

Choosing the Right Tool

Consider the type of wood you’ll be working with. For softwoods, an axe may be sufficient. For hardwoods, a splitting maul is essential.
Choose a tool that is the right weight for your strength and experience level. A heavier tool will generate more force, but it can also be more tiring to use.
Look for a tool with a comfortable grip and a well-balanced design.

Safe Splitting Practices

Use a splitting block that is stable and the right height.
Maintain a safe distance from other people.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Use a wedge to split particularly tough logs.

Final Thoughts: The Art of Wood Processing

Mastering the 36-inch Stihl bar is more than just learning how to cut wood. It’s about understanding the tools, the wood, and the techniques that allow you to work safely and efficiently. It’s about respecting the power of the chainsaw and the beauty of the wood. It’s about connecting with a tradition that goes back generations.

I hope these tips have been helpful. Remember, practice makes perfect. Start with smaller logs and gradually increase the size as your skill improves. Always prioritize safety, and never be afraid to ask for help.

Wood processing is an art, a craft, and a skill that can bring immense satisfaction. Whether you’re a professional logger, a weekend warrior, or simply someone who enjoys the warmth of a wood-burning fire, I encourage you to embrace the challenge and discover the rewards of working with wood. And remember, a sharp chain, a well-maintained saw, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of the 36-inch Stihl bar will take you a long way. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!