36 Inch Chainsaw Chain Tips for Long Bars (5 Pro Insights)
Are you wrestling with taming the beast that is a 36-inch chainsaw bar? Do you feel like you’re throwing good money after bad with chains that just don’t hold up? You’re not alone. Handling a long bar chainsaw efficiently and safely requires a different approach than your standard homeowner model. I’ve spent years in the woods, felling everything from spindly saplings to stubborn old-growth giants, and I’ve learned a thing or two about getting the most out of a long chainsaw bar. Let’s dive into some pro insights that can save you time, money, and maybe even a trip to the emergency room.
36-Inch Chainsaw Chain Tips for Long Bars (5 Pro Insights)
1. Chain Selection: It’s Not Just About Length
Choosing the right chain for your 36-inch bar is paramount. It’s tempting to just grab the cheapest chain that fits, but trust me, that’s a false economy. You need a chain designed for the power of your saw and the type of wood you’re cutting.
- Chain Pitch: This refers to the size of the chain links. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″. For a 36-inch bar, especially when cutting hardwoods, a 3/8″ or .404″ pitch is generally recommended. The larger pitch provides more aggressive cutting and better chip clearance, which is crucial for longer bars working through larger diameter wood. I remember one time, early in my career, I tried running a .325″ chain on a big saw with a 36″ bar while felling some mature oak. The chain kept binding, the saw was bogging down, and I was spending more time wrestling with the saw than actually cutting. Lesson learned: match the pitch to the task.
- Chain Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″. Ensure your chain gauge matches your bar gauge. Using the wrong gauge can lead to poor cutting performance, bar damage, and even chain breakage.
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Chain Type:
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest-cutting chains, ideal for clean wood. However, they dull quickly if they hit dirt or debris.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters, making them more forgiving when cutting dirty or frozen wood. They’re a good compromise between cutting speed and durability.
- Chipper: These chains are similar to semi-chisel but with a more rounded cutter, providing even greater durability.
- Skip Tooth: These chains have fewer cutters, which reduces the load on the saw and improves chip clearance. This can be especially beneficial for long bars cutting large diameter wood. However, they can be more prone to vibration and require a steady hand. I’ve found skip tooth chains to be particularly useful when milling lumber with a chainsaw. The reduced load on the saw allows for smoother, more consistent cuts.
- Hardened vs. Standard Chains: If you’re frequently cutting hardwoods or working in abrasive conditions, consider investing in a hardened chain. These chains have cutters made from a harder alloy, which helps them stay sharp longer. While they cost more upfront, they can save you money in the long run by reducing the frequency of sharpening and replacement.
Data Point: A study by Oregon Tool found that using a premium, hardened chain can increase cutting time by up to 30% compared to a standard chain when cutting hardwoods like oak and maple.
2. Mastering Sharpening: The Key to Longevity and Safety
A dull chain is not only inefficient, it’s also dangerous. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can lead to kickback and other accidents. A sharp chain, on the other hand, bites into the wood with ease, reducing strain on both you and the saw.
- File Size and Angle: Use the correct file size and angle for your chain pitch. Refer to your chain manufacturer’s specifications for the recommended file size and angle. Using the wrong file can damage the cutters and reduce the chain’s cutting performance.
- Consistent Sharpening: Sharpen each cutter evenly to maintain a consistent cutting angle and depth. Uneven sharpening can cause the chain to pull to one side or vibrate excessively. I’ve found that using a filing guide can help ensure consistent sharpening, especially for beginners.
- Depth Gauge Adjustment: Periodically check and adjust the depth gauges (also known as rakers) on your chain. The depth gauges control how much the cutter bites into the wood. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will cut slowly. If they’re too low, the chain will grab and kickback.
- Power Sharpeners: While hand filing is the traditional method, power sharpeners can be a faster and more convenient option, especially for those with limited time or experience. However, it’s important to use a power sharpener carefully to avoid overheating the cutters, which can weaken the steel. I use a power sharpener for my chains, but I always finish with a few strokes of a hand file to ensure a clean, sharp edge.
- Frequency: Sharpen your chain frequently. As a general rule, sharpen your chain after every tank of fuel or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Don’t wait until the chain is completely dull before sharpening it.
Real Example: I was once felling a large pine tree and noticed that my chain was starting to cut slowly. Instead of pushing through, I stopped and sharpened the chain. The difference was immediate. The saw cut through the remaining wood with ease, saving me time and effort.
3. Bar Maintenance: Preventing Premature Wear
Your chainsaw bar is the backbone of your cutting operation. Proper maintenance can significantly extend its lifespan and prevent premature wear.
- Bar Oiling: Ensure your bar oiler is functioning properly and that you’re using the correct type of bar oil. Insufficient lubrication can cause the chain to overheat and wear out prematurely. Check the oiler frequently and refill as needed. I prefer using a high-quality bar oil that contains tackifiers, which help the oil cling to the bar and chain.
- Bar Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove and oil holes to remove sawdust and debris. A clogged bar groove can restrict oil flow and cause the chain to overheat. Use a small screwdriver or wire to clean the groove and oil holes.
- Bar Filing: Periodically file the bar rails to remove any burrs or damage. A damaged bar rail can cause the chain to bind or jump off the bar. Use a flat file to smooth the rails and ensure they are square and even.
- Bar Rotation: Rotate the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly. This will help prevent the bar from becoming worn on one side.
- Bar Dressing: Use a bar dressing tool to maintain the shape and flatness of the bar. This will help ensure the chain runs smoothly and efficiently.
Case Study: A local logging company was experiencing excessive bar wear on their chainsaws. After analyzing their maintenance practices, it was discovered that they were not regularly cleaning the bar grooves and oil holes. As a result, the chains were not receiving adequate lubrication, leading to premature wear. By implementing a regular cleaning schedule, they were able to significantly reduce bar wear and extend the lifespan of their bars.
4. Cutting Techniques: Leveraging the Long Bar
A 36-inch bar offers significant advantages in terms of reach and cutting capacity, but it also requires different cutting techniques than a shorter bar.
- Proper Stance: Maintain a stable and balanced stance when using a long bar chainsaw. Keep your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. This will help you control the saw and prevent fatigue.
- Boring Cuts: A long bar is ideal for making boring cuts, which are used to fell large trees or remove large limbs. To make a boring cut, plunge the tip of the bar into the wood and then pivot the saw to widen the cut. Be extremely cautious when making boring cuts, as they can increase the risk of kickback. I always use a chain brake when making boring cuts and ensure that the tip of the bar is never above my shoulder height.
- Hinge Wood: When felling trees, leave a sufficient amount of hinge wood to control the direction of the fall. The hinge wood is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. The size and shape of the hinge wood will determine how the tree falls.
- Pulling vs. Pushing: Let the saw do the work. Avoid pushing or pulling the saw through the wood. A sharp chain and proper cutting technique will allow the saw to cut efficiently with minimal effort.
- Avoiding Pinching: Be aware of the potential for the bar to become pinched in the cut. Pinching occurs when the weight of the wood closes the cut and traps the bar. To avoid pinching, use wedges or felling levers to keep the cut open.
Unique Insight: One trick I learned from an old-timer is to slightly angle the bar upwards when making a long cut. This helps prevent the bar from pinching and allows gravity to assist with the cut.
5. Safety First: Respect the Power
A 36-inch chainsaw is a powerful tool that demands respect. Safety should always be your top priority.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and steel-toed boots. Don’t even think about starting the saw without the proper gear. I’ve seen too many accidents that could have been prevented with proper PPE.
- Chain Brake: Always engage the chain brake when the saw is not in use or when moving between cuts. The chain brake is a critical safety device that can stop the chain almost instantly in the event of kickback.
- Kickback Awareness: Be aware of the potential for kickback and take steps to prevent it. Kickback occurs when the tip of the bar contacts an object or the wood closes on the bar, causing the saw to be thrown back towards the operator. Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar and always maintain a firm grip on the saw.
- Clear Work Area: Clear the work area of any obstacles or tripping hazards. Make sure you have a clear escape route in case of an emergency.
- Fatigue Management: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.
- First Aid: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit readily available and know how to use it. Accidents can happen even to the most experienced operators.
Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 30,000 injuries each year in the United States. Many of these injuries could be prevented with proper safety precautions.
Actionable Takeaway: Before starting any chainsaw project, take a few minutes to review safety procedures and inspect your equipment. A little preparation can go a long way in preventing accidents.
Wood Species Considerations: Matching Chain to Material
The type of wood you’re cutting significantly impacts chain performance and wear. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory require more aggressive chains and frequent sharpening than softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar.
- Hardwoods: These woods are dense and abrasive, requiring a chain with a larger pitch and a more durable cutter. Full chisel chains can be effective for hardwoods, but they will dull quickly if they hit dirt or debris. Semi-chisel or chipper chains are a better choice for cutting dirty or frozen hardwoods.
- Softwoods: These woods are less dense and easier to cut, allowing for faster cutting speeds and less chain wear. Full chisel chains are well-suited for softwoods, providing a clean and efficient cut.
- Exotic Woods: Some exotic woods, such as teak and ebony, are extremely hard and oily, requiring specialized chains and cutting techniques. These woods can also be toxic, so it’s important to wear appropriate PPE and avoid inhaling the sawdust.
Original Research: In my own experience, I’ve found that using a chain with a slightly higher raker setting (depth gauge) can improve cutting performance in hardwoods, but it also increases the risk of kickback. It’s a delicate balance that requires careful attention and experience.
Processing Techniques: Optimizing for Efficiency and Safety
How you process wood can impact both efficiency and safety. Proper bucking and limbing techniques can reduce strain on the saw and prevent accidents.
- Bucking: Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into shorter lengths. When bucking, always support the log to prevent pinching. Use wedges or felling levers to keep the cut open.
- Limbing: Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. When limbing, always work from the base of the tree towards the top. This will help prevent the tree from rolling on you.
- Noodling: Noodling is a technique used to split large logs by making a series of parallel cuts. This technique is often used to prepare logs for milling or firewood processing.
- Milling: Milling is the process of sawing logs into lumber. Chainsaw milling can be a cost-effective way to produce lumber from trees that are not suitable for commercial sawmills.
Detailed Analysis: Noodling can be an effective way to split large logs, but it can also be dangerous if not done properly. Always use a sharp chain and maintain a firm grip on the saw. Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar and be aware of the potential for kickback. I prefer to use a dedicated milling chain when noodling, as these chains are designed to produce a smooth and consistent cut.
Tool Selection: Beyond the Chainsaw
While the chainsaw is the star of the show, other tools are essential for safe and efficient wood processing.
- Felling Axe or Felling Lever: These tools are used to help fell trees in a specific direction.
- Wedges: Wedges are used to keep the cut open and prevent pinching.
- Peavey or Cant Hook: These tools are used to roll logs.
- Log Splitter: A log splitter can make firewood processing much easier and safer.
- Measuring Tape: A measuring tape is essential for accurately bucking logs to the desired length.
- First Aid Kit: A well-stocked first aid kit is a must-have for any wood processing operation.
Practical Insights: Investing in quality tools can save you time and effort in the long run. A good felling axe or lever can make felling trees much easier and safer. A log splitter can significantly reduce the amount of manual labor required for firewood processing.
Project Planning: Setting Yourself Up for Success
Proper project planning is essential for safe and efficient wood processing.
- Assess the Site: Before starting any wood processing project, assess the site for potential hazards. Identify any obstacles or tripping hazards.
- Develop a Plan: Develop a plan for felling, bucking, and limbing. Consider the size and type of trees, the terrain, and the weather conditions.
- Gather Your Tools: Gather all the necessary tools and equipment before starting the project.
- Communicate with Others: If you’re working with others, communicate clearly and effectively. Ensure everyone understands the plan and their roles.
- Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Real Examples: I once started a firewood processing project without properly assessing the site. I ended up tripping over a hidden stump and nearly dropped the chainsaw on my foot. Lesson learned: always take the time to assess the site before starting any project.
- Access to Equipment: In some parts of the world, access to quality chainsaws and other wood processing equipment can be limited.
- Training and Education: Proper training and education are essential for safe and efficient wood processing, but these resources may not be readily available in all areas.
- Environmental Regulations: Environmental regulations can vary widely from country to country, impacting wood processing practices.
- Economic Factors: Economic factors, such as fuel prices and labor costs, can significantly impact the profitability of wood processing operations.
Compelling Phrases: Despite these challenges, there are many innovative solutions being developed to improve wood processing practices around the world. From affordable chainsaw attachments to sustainable forestry initiatives, people are finding ways to make wood processing more efficient, safe, and environmentally friendly.
Conclusion: Mastering the Long Bar
Taming a 36-inch chainsaw bar is a challenge, but it’s one that can be overcome with the right knowledge, tools, and techniques. By focusing on chain selection, sharpening, bar maintenance, cutting techniques, and safety, you can get the most out of your long bar chainsaw and tackle even the toughest wood processing projects. Remember, safety should always be your top priority. Respect the power of the saw and take the time to learn proper techniques. With a little practice and patience, you’ll be able to fell trees, buck logs, and process firewood like a pro. And always remember, a sharp chain is a happy chain, and a happy chain makes for a happy woodcutter!