36 Chainsaw Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips For Long Bar Efficiency)

Upgrading to a 36-inch chainsaw bar can feel like stepping into a new league of wood processing. I remember the first time I strapped one onto my trusty Husqvarna – the sheer reach and cutting capacity were game-changing. But with that power comes responsibility, and understanding how to maximize your bar’s efficiency is crucial for safety, productivity, and the longevity of your equipment. This guide isn’t just about slapping on a longer bar; it’s about mastering the techniques and knowledge to wield that extra length like a seasoned pro. I’ve spent years felling timber and processing firewood, and I’m here to share my top five pro tips for making the most of your 36-inch chainsaw bar.

36 Chainsaw Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips for Long Bar Efficiency)

Understanding the 36-inch Chainsaw Bar

Before diving into the tips, let’s establish a baseline understanding of what a 36-inch chainsaw bar brings to the table. It’s significantly longer than the standard 18-20 inch bars common on many homeowner saws. This increased length allows you to fell larger diameter trees and process thicker logs with fewer passes. However, it also demands more power from your chainsaw, increases the risk of kickback, and requires a higher level of operator skill.

Typical Applications: Felling trees with diameters up to 72 inches (theoretically, twice the bar length), milling lumber, and processing large firewood rounds.
Chainsaw Compatibility: Not every chainsaw can handle a 36-inch bar. You need a powerful saw, typically in the 70cc+ engine displacement range, to properly drive the chain and maintain cutting speed. I recommend consulting your chainsaw’s manual or a qualified technician to ensure compatibility. A smaller saw will struggle, leading to overheating, reduced cutting efficiency, and potential damage.
Safety Considerations: The longer bar increases the leverage and potential for kickback. Always use proper personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves. Be extra vigilant about avoiding pinch points and maintaining a firm grip on the saw.

Takeaway: A 36-inch bar is a powerful tool, but it requires a compatible saw, a focus on safety, and a mastery of specific techniques.

Pro Tip 1: Chain Selection is Paramount

Choosing the right chain for your 36-inch bar is not a one-size-fits-all affair. The type of chain you select will dramatically impact cutting speed, smoothness, and overall efficiency. I’ve experimented with countless chain types over the years, and I’ve learned that matching the chain to the wood type and the task at hand is critical.

Chain Types:
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that slice through wood quickly and efficiently. They are ideal for clean wood and experienced users. However, they dull more easily and are more prone to kickback.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters that are more forgiving and durable than full chisel chains. They are a good all-around choice for dirty or knotty wood.
- Low-Profile (Safety) Chains: These chains have reduced kickback potential, making them suitable for beginners or those working in confined spaces. However, they are slower cutting than full or semi-chisel chains.
- Ripping Chains: Designed specifically for milling lumber, these chains have a unique cutter geometry that produces smooth, parallel cuts along the grain of the wood.
Chain Pitch and Gauge: These specifications must match your chainsaw bar and drive sprocket. The pitch is the distance between three rivets divided by two, and the gauge is the thickness of the drive links. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″. Using the wrong pitch or gauge will prevent the chain from fitting properly and can damage your saw.
Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and reducing strain on your saw. Learn to sharpen your chain properly using a file and guide, or invest in a chain grinder. I personally prefer hand filing as it allows me to maintain the correct cutting angles and depth gauges. Regularly sharpening your chain will significantly improve your cutting speed and reduce the risk of kickback. I typically sharpen my chain after every tank of fuel, or more frequently if I’m cutting dirty or resinous wood.
Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it will overheat and wear prematurely. Check the chain tension frequently, especially when the chain is new, as it will stretch during the initial break-in period. I usually adjust the tension after the first few cuts with a new chain.

Example: When felling a large oak tree, I opt for a full chisel chain with a 3/8″ pitch and .050″ gauge for maximum cutting speed. However, when milling lumber from the same tree, I switch to a ripping chain with the same pitch and gauge to achieve smooth, accurate cuts.

Takeaway: Selecting the right chain is more than just picking a brand. Consider the wood type, the task at hand, and your skill level. Keep your chain sharp and properly tensioned for optimal performance.

Pro Tip 2: Mastering Felling Cuts with a Long Bar

Felling a tree with a 36-inch bar requires a different approach than using a shorter bar. The increased length allows you to make deeper cuts and fell larger diameter trees, but it also demands greater precision and control. I’ve learned through experience that proper felling techniques are paramount for safety and efficiency.

The Hinge (Holding Wood): The hinge is the key to controlling the direction of the fall. It’s a strip of uncut wood that connects the stump to the falling tree. The width and thickness of the hinge determine the amount of control you have. For a 36-inch bar, I typically aim for a hinge that is 8-10% of the tree’s diameter. For example, on a 30-inch diameter tree, the hinge should be approximately 2.4-3 inches wide.
The Notch (Face Cut): The notch determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut at a 45-degree angle, with the bottom cut being slightly deeper than the top cut. The depth of the notch should be approximately 20% of the tree’s diameter. A properly executed notch will guide the tree in the desired direction.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be level and slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave the hinge intact. As you make the back cut, be aware of any lean in the tree and any potential hazards in the fall zone.
Using Wedges: Wedges are essential for preventing the bar from getting pinched during the back cut and for helping to direct the fall. Insert wedges into the back cut as you proceed, and drive them in firmly with a hammer or axe. I always carry at least two wedges with me when felling trees.
Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the weight of the tree closes the kerf (the cut made by the chainsaw bar), trapping the bar. This can be dangerous and can damage your saw. To avoid pinching, use wedges, maintain a sharp chain, and avoid cutting in areas where the tree is under tension.
Felling Techniques for Larger Trees: When felling trees that are larger than the length of your bar, you’ll need to use specialized techniques such as bore cutting or pie cutting. These techniques involve making multiple cuts to remove sections of the tree before making the final felling cut. Bore cutting involves plunging the tip of the bar into the tree to create a pocket, while pie cutting involves removing wedge-shaped sections of the tree. These techniques require advanced skills and should only be attempted by experienced users.

Example: I once felled a massive cottonwood tree that was over 40 inches in diameter. Because the tree was larger than my 36-inch bar, I had to use a combination of bore cutting and wedging to safely bring it down. The process took several hours, but by carefully planning each cut and using the proper techniques, I was able to fell the tree exactly where I wanted it.

Takeaway: Mastering felling cuts with a long bar requires precision, planning, and a thorough understanding of tree physics. Practice on smaller trees before tackling larger ones, and always prioritize safety.

Pro Tip 3: Optimizing Bar and Chain Oiling

A 36-inch bar demands a substantial amount of lubrication to prevent overheating and premature wear. Insufficient oiling can lead to a blue bar (caused by excessive heat), a dull chain, and ultimately, a seized-up chainsaw. I’ve learned the hard way that skimping on bar and chain oil is a false economy.

Oil Type: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically formulated for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage your saw. I prefer using a synthetic bar and chain oil, especially in cold weather, as it flows better and provides superior protection.
Oiler Adjustment: Most chainsaws have an adjustable oiler that allows you to control the flow of oil to the bar and chain. Increase the oil flow when using a longer bar or cutting hardwoods. Check the oiler output regularly by running the saw at full throttle and observing the amount of oil being thrown off the chain. You should see a fine mist of oil being ejected from the chain.
Maintaining the Oiler: Regularly clean the oiler ports and reservoir to prevent clogs. Debris and sawdust can accumulate in the oiler, restricting the flow of oil. I typically clean the oiler every time I refuel the saw.
Bar Maintenance: Regularly clean the bar groove and oil holes to ensure proper lubrication. Use a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver to remove debris from the groove. Check the bar rails for wear and burrs. If the rails are damaged, dress them with a bar rail dressing tool or file. A worn or damaged bar can cause the chain to bind and overheat.
Visual Inspection: Before each use, visually inspect the bar and chain for signs of wear or damage. Look for cracks, bends, or excessive wear on the bar rails. Check the chain for loose or damaged cutters. Replace any worn or damaged parts immediately.

Example: I once neglected to check the oil level in my chainsaw before felling a large oak tree. As a result, the bar ran dry and overheated, causing the chain to dull and the bar to warp. I had to stop working and replace the bar and chain, which cost me time and money. I learned my lesson the hard way: always check the oil level and maintain the oiler properly.

Takeaway: Proper bar and chain oiling is essential for the longevity and performance of your 36-inch bar. Use high-quality oil, adjust the oiler properly, and maintain the bar and oiler regularly.

Pro Tip 4: Leverage and Body Positioning for Control

Using a 36-inch bar effectively requires understanding leverage and mastering proper body positioning. The longer bar amplifies the forces involved, making it crucial to maintain control and avoid fatigue. I’ve found that small adjustments in technique can make a big difference in both safety and productivity.

Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your knees slightly bent to absorb shock and maintain balance. Position yourself so that you are facing the direction of the cut.
Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles. Avoid a death grip, as this can lead to fatigue and reduced control.
Using Your Legs: Use your legs to power the saw through the cut. Avoid relying solely on your arms, as this can lead to fatigue and injury. Keep your back straight and use your core muscles to maintain stability.
Avoiding Overreach: Avoid overreaching when using a long bar. If you need to reach further, reposition yourself rather than extending your arms. Overreaching can lead to loss of control and increased risk of kickback.
Working with the Saw’s Weight: A 36-inch bar adds significant weight to the front of the saw. Learn to use the saw’s weight to your advantage, allowing it to do some of the work for you. Avoid forcing the saw through the cut, as this can lead to fatigue and damage to the saw.
Cutting Techniques: Use smooth, controlled movements when cutting with a long bar. Avoid jerky or abrupt movements, as these can lead to loss of control. Let the saw do the work, and avoid applying excessive pressure.

Example: I used to struggle with fatigue when using my 36-inch bar. I realized that I was relying too much on my arms and not enough on my legs and core. By adjusting my stance and technique, I was able to reduce fatigue and maintain better control of the saw.

Takeaway: Proper body positioning and technique are essential for using a 36-inch bar safely and efficiently. Maintain a stable stance, grip the saw firmly, and use your legs to power the cut.

Pro Tip 5: Understanding Wood Properties and Reactive Forces

Wood isn’t a homogenous material. Its density, grain patterns, and internal stresses all influence how it reacts to being cut. Understanding these properties and anticipating reactive forces is crucial for preventing pinching, binding, and other hazards when using a 36-inch bar. I’ve seen firsthand how a lack of awareness can lead to dangerous situations.

Compression and Tension: Wood fibers are either in compression (being squeezed) or tension (being stretched). When you cut through wood, you release these forces, which can cause the wood to move and potentially pinch the bar.
Identifying Reactive Forces: Before making a cut, assess the wood for signs of compression or tension. Look for bends, cracks, or other deformities. If the wood is under tension, it will tend to spring open when cut. If the wood is under compression, it will tend to close in on the bar.
Relief Cuts: Use relief cuts to relieve tension and prevent pinching. A relief cut is a small cut made parallel to the main cut that allows the wood to expand or contract without pinching the bar.
Working with Different Wood Types: Different wood types have different properties. Hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and more resistant to cutting than softwoods like pine and fir. Resinous woods like pine and cedar can gum up the chain and bar. Adjust your cutting techniques accordingly.
Dealing with Knots: Knots are areas where branches grew out of the tree. They are denser and more difficult to cut than the surrounding wood. Approach knots cautiously and use a sharp chain. Avoid forcing the saw through knots, as this can lead to kickback.
Avoiding Springpoles: A springpole is a bent tree or branch that is under tension. Cutting a springpole can be extremely dangerous, as the released energy can cause the wood to snap back violently. Avoid cutting springpoles if possible. If you must cut a springpole, use extreme caution and make multiple small cuts to gradually release the tension.

Example: I was once cutting a fallen tree that was resting on a rock. As I made the cut, I didn’t realize that the wood was under compression. As soon as I cut through the wood, it snapped shut, trapping the bar and throwing the saw back at me. Fortunately, I was able to maintain control of the saw and avoid injury. I learned that it’s crucial to assess the wood for reactive forces before making a cut.

Takeaway: Understanding wood properties and reactive forces is essential for safe and efficient cutting with a 36-inch bar. Assess the wood before cutting, use relief cuts to relieve tension, and adjust your techniques based on the wood type and condition.

Maintaining Your 36-inch Bar and Chain

Consistent maintenance is the key to maximizing the lifespan of your 36-inch bar and chain. Neglecting maintenance will not only reduce cutting efficiency but can also lead to costly repairs and potential safety hazards. I’ve developed a routine that keeps my equipment in top condition.

Daily Inspection: Before each use, inspect the bar and chain for damage, wear, and proper tension. Check the oil level and adjust the oiler as needed.
Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly, ideally after each tank of fuel or when you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Use a file and guide or a chain grinder to maintain the correct cutting angles and depth gauges.
Bar Cleaning: Clean the bar groove and oil holes regularly to ensure proper lubrication. Use a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver to remove debris.
Bar Rail Dressing: Dress the bar rails with a bar rail dressing tool or file to remove burrs and maintain a smooth cutting surface.
Chain Cleaning: Clean the chain regularly to remove resin, sawdust, and other debris. Use a solvent or degreaser to clean the chain, and then lubricate it with bar and chain oil.
Storage: Store the bar and chain in a dry, protected location when not in use. Use a bar cover to protect the chain from damage.
Professional Service: Have your chainsaw professionally serviced at least once a year. A qualified technician can inspect the saw for wear and tear, adjust the carburetor, and perform other maintenance tasks that will keep your saw running smoothly.

Example: I have a checklist that I use to maintain my chainsaw. The checklist includes tasks such as checking the oil level, sharpening the chain, cleaning the bar, and inspecting the spark plug. By following this checklist, I can ensure that my chainsaw is always in top condition.

Takeaway: Implement a regular maintenance schedule to keep your 36-inch bar and chain in optimal condition. This includes daily inspections, regular sharpening, cleaning, and professional servicing.

Conclusion: Mastering the 36-inch Chainsaw Bar

Using a 36-inch chainsaw bar effectively is a combination of skill, knowledge, and proper maintenance. By following these five pro tips, you can maximize your bar’s efficiency, improve your safety, and extend the life of your equipment. Remember to always prioritize safety, use the proper techniques, and maintain your bar and chain regularly. The power of a long bar is undeniable, but it’s crucial to wield it responsibly and with respect for the forces involved. Now, go out there and put these tips into practice, and you’ll be felling trees and processing wood like a true professional!

36 Chainsaw Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips for Long Bar Efficiency)