357 XP Husqvarna Chainsaw Review (Ideal Ground Saw For Arborists)

Let’s dive into the world of powerful chainsaws and explore the Husqvarna 357 XP, a true workhorse in the hands of arborists and serious woodcutters. This saw has earned its stripes, known for its ruggedness and ability to tackle demanding jobs. I’ve spent countless hours in the field, felling trees, limbing branches, and bucking firewood, and I’ve come to appreciate a chainsaw that can withstand the rigors of daily use. The 357 XP, with its robust build and impressive power, definitely fits that bill. It’s not just a chainsaw; it’s a reliable partner in the woods.

The Husqvarna 357 XP: A Deep Dive into a Legendary Chainsaw

The Husqvarna 357 XP has a reputation that precedes it. It’s a chainsaw that many professionals swear by, and for good reason. It’s a blend of power, reliability, and relatively lightweight design, making it ideal for a variety of tasks. Whether you’re an arborist working high in the trees or a ground sawyer processing timber, the 357 XP offers the performance you need. Let’s break down what makes this saw so special.

Unveiling the Heart of the Beast: Engine Specifications

At the core of the 357 XP lies a 56.5cc, two-stroke engine. This engine is designed for high performance, delivering around 3.4 kW (4.6 bhp) of power. What does this mean in practical terms? It means the saw has the grunt to power through hardwoods like oak and maple without bogging down. The engine’s design also incorporates Husqvarna’s X-Torq technology, which aims to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. In my experience, this translates to longer run times on a single tank of fuel and a slightly cleaner exhaust, which is a definite plus when you’re working in enclosed spaces or for extended periods.

Displacement: 56.5 cc
Power Output: 3.4 kW (4.6 bhp)
Fuel Tank Volume: 0.68 liters (1.43 US pints)
Oil Tank Volume: 0.38 liters (0.8 US pints)

Built to Last: Durability and Construction

One of the key reasons the 357 XP is so highly regarded is its robust construction. The engine casing is made from magnesium, which provides excellent strength and heat dissipation while keeping the weight down. The crankshaft is forged in three pieces, making it exceptionally durable and able to withstand the stresses of high-speed operation. The air filter system is also designed to keep the engine clean, even in dusty conditions. I’ve used this saw in some pretty harsh environments, and I’ve been consistently impressed with its ability to keep running smoothly.

Ergonomics and Handling: Comfort in the Cut

While power and durability are essential, a chainsaw also needs to be comfortable to use, especially for extended periods. The 357 XP features Husqvarna’s LowVib system, which uses dampeners to reduce vibration levels. This makes a noticeable difference in reducing fatigue, allowing you to work longer with less strain on your hands and arms. The saw is also well-balanced, making it easier to control and maneuver. The weight is around 5.5 kg (12.1 lbs) without the bar and chain, which is reasonable for a saw of this size and power.

Chain and Bar Options: Tailoring the Saw to the Task

The 357 XP can accommodate a range of bar lengths, typically from 13 inches to 20 inches. The choice of bar length depends on the type of work you’re doing. A shorter bar is ideal for limbing and smaller trees, while a longer bar is better for felling larger trees. I usually run an 18-inch bar on my 357 XP, which I find to be a good compromise for most tasks. The chain type also matters. A full-chisel chain will cut faster but requires more sharpening, while a semi-chisel chain is more forgiving and stays sharp longer.

Understanding Wood: A Foundation for Effective Cutting

Before diving deeper into chainsaw techniques, it’s crucial to understand the material we’re working with: wood. Wood is a complex material with varying properties that affect how it cuts, splits, and burns. Knowing the basics of wood anatomy and properties can significantly improve your efficiency and safety in the woods.

Wood Anatomy: A Microscopic Look

Wood is primarily composed of cells, mainly cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. These components give wood its structure and strength. There are two main types of wood: hardwood and softwood.

Hardwood: Comes from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves annually) like oak, maple, and birch. Hardwoods generally have a more complex cell structure, making them denser and harder to cut.
Softwood: Comes from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones) like pine, fir, and spruce. Softwoods have a simpler cell structure, making them less dense and easier to cut.

The grain of the wood also plays a significant role. Straight-grained wood is easier to split and cut, while wood with knots or irregular grain can be more challenging.

Moisture Content: The Key to Seasoning

Moisture content is the amount of water in the wood, expressed as a percentage of the wood’s dry weight. Freshly cut (green) wood can have a moisture content of over 100%, meaning it weighs more than its dry weight due to the water it contains. Seasoning wood involves reducing the moisture content to around 20% or less, making it ideal for burning.

Why Season Wood? Seasoned wood burns more efficiently, produces more heat, and creates less smoke. Burning green wood is inefficient and can lead to creosote buildup in your chimney, which is a fire hazard.
How to Season Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a well-ventilated area. Allow air to circulate around the wood to facilitate drying. The seasoning process typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the type of wood and the climate.

Data Point: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that seasoned hardwood can produce up to 50% more heat than green hardwood.

Density and Heat Value: Choosing the Right Wood

The density of wood is a measure of its mass per unit volume. Denser woods generally have a higher heat value, meaning they produce more heat when burned.

High-Density Woods: Oak, maple, beech, and ash are examples of high-density hardwoods with high heat values.
Low-Density Woods: Pine, fir, spruce, and poplar are examples of low-density softwoods with lower heat values.

Note: BTU (British Thermal Units) is a measure of heat energy. These values are approximate and can vary depending on moisture content and other factors.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance: Maximizing Efficiency and Safety

Chainsaws are just one part of the equation. To be truly effective in the woods, you need a range of tools and the knowledge to maintain them properly.

Essential Logging Tools: Beyond the Chainsaw

Axes and Splitting Mauls: For splitting firewood and felling smaller trees. A good splitting maul can save you a lot of time and effort when processing firewood.
Wedges: Used to prevent the saw from binding when felling trees and to help direct the fall.
Felling Lever: Provides leverage to help push over trees in a specific direction.
Cant Hook or Peavey: Used to roll logs for easier cutting and splitting.
Measuring Tape: Essential for cutting firewood to the correct length.
Chainsaw Files and Filing Guides: For sharpening your chainsaw chain. A sharp chain is crucial for efficient and safe cutting.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.

Chainsaw Maintenance: Keeping Your Saw in Top Condition

Regular maintenance is crucial for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly and safely. Here are some essential maintenance tasks:

Sharpening the Chain: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. Sharpen your chain regularly using a chainsaw file and filing guide.
Cleaning the Air Filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow to the engine, reducing performance and potentially causing damage. Clean the air filter regularly with soap and water or compressed air.
Checking and Replacing the Spark Plug: A faulty spark plug can cause starting problems and poor performance. Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
Cleaning the Bar and Chain: Remove sawdust and debris from the bar and chain after each use. Check the bar for wear and damage.
Lubricating the Chain: Keep the chain properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
Checking and Adjusting the Chain Tension: The chain should have a slight amount of slack but should not be so loose that it can come off the bar.
Inspecting the Fuel and Oil Lines: Check for cracks or leaks in the fuel and oil lines. Replace them as needed.

Tip: Keep a maintenance log for your chainsaw to track when you performed each task. This will help you stay on top of maintenance and prevent problems.

Sharpening Chainsaw: Step-by-Step Guide

Secure the Saw: Place your chainsaw in a vise or clamp to keep it stable.
Identify the Cutters: Locate the cutting teeth on your chain. Each tooth has a cutting edge and a depth gauge.
Use a Filing Guide: A filing guide helps maintain the correct angle and depth while sharpening. Place the guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutter.
File the Cutter: Use a round file that matches the size of the cutter. File from the inside of the cutter towards the outside, maintaining a consistent angle.
Check the Depth Gauge: Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges are at the correct height.
Repeat for All Cutters: Sharpen each cutter on the chain, maintaining consistency.
Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain on a piece of wood to ensure it cuts smoothly and efficiently.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Seasoning firewood is a crucial step in preparing it for efficient and safe burning. Proper seasoning reduces moisture content, resulting in better heat output and less creosote buildup.

Stacking Methods: Maximizing Airflow

The way you stack your firewood can significantly impact the seasoning process. The goal is to maximize airflow around the wood to facilitate drying. Here are a few popular stacking methods:

Traditional Row Stacking: Stack the wood in single rows, leaving space between each row for airflow. This method is simple and effective.
Circular Stacking: Create a circular stack with the wood leaning inward. This method is aesthetically pleasing and provides good airflow.
Cross Stacking: Stack the wood in alternating directions to create a stable and well-ventilated pile.

Key Considerations:

Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or timbers to keep it off the ground and prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: Select a location that receives plenty of sunlight and is exposed to wind. This will help accelerate the drying process.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or roofing material to protect the wood from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for ventilation.

Monitoring Moisture Content: When is it Ready?

The best way to determine if your firewood is properly seasoned is to measure its moisture content. You can use a moisture meter to get an accurate reading. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.

Alternative Methods:

Visual Inspection: Seasoned wood will be lighter in color and weight than green wood. It may also have cracks or splits on the ends.
Sound Test: When you strike two pieces of seasoned wood together, they will produce a hollow sound. Green wood will produce a dull thud.
Soap Test: Apply soapy water to one end of the split wood. If air bubbles form, it indicates that moisture is escaping, meaning it’s still seasoning.

Safety Considerations: Handling and Stacking

Wear Gloves: Protect your hands from splinters and rough wood.
Lift Properly: Use proper lifting techniques to avoid back injuries. Bend your knees and keep your back straight.
Stack Safely: Stack the wood in a stable manner to prevent it from collapsing.
Be Aware of Insects and Animals: Check the wood for insects, such as termites or carpenter ants, and be aware of the potential for animals, such as snakes or rodents, hiding in the stack.

Project Planning and Execution: From Tree to Firewood

Turning standing trees into usable firewood requires careful planning and execution. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.

Step 1: Tree Selection and Felling

Identify Suitable Trees: Choose trees that are dead, dying, or diseased. Avoid cutting healthy trees unless necessary for forest management purposes.
Assess the Surroundings: Before felling a tree, assess the surroundings for potential hazards, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Plan the Fall: Determine the direction you want the tree to fall and clear any obstacles in that path.
Make the Cuts: Use proper felling techniques to safely and accurately fell the tree. This typically involves making a notch cut and a back cut.
Use Wedges: If the tree doesn’t start to fall in the desired direction, use wedges to help push it over.

Safety First: Always wear appropriate PPE when felling trees and be aware of the potential for kickback from the chainsaw.

Step 2: Limbing and Bucking

Limbing: Remove the branches from the felled tree. Use caution when limbing, as branches can spring back and cause injury.
Bucking: Cut the trunk into manageable lengths for splitting and handling. The length will depend on the size of your wood stove or fireplace.

Tip: Use a measuring tape to ensure consistent lengths when bucking firewood.

Step 3: Splitting

Choose Your Method: You can split firewood manually with an axe or splitting maul, or you can use a hydraulic log splitter.
Manual Splitting: Place the log on a sturdy splitting block and swing the axe or maul with force. Aim for the center of the log.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: Place the log on the splitter and activate the hydraulic ram to split the log.

Safety First: Wear eye protection and gloves when splitting firewood. Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting area.

Manual vs Hydraulic Splitters:

Feature	Manual Splitter	Hydraulic Splitter
Cost	Lower	Higher
Speed	Slower	Faster
Effort	More	Less
Log Size	Limited	Can handle larger logs
Portability	More portable	Less portable

Step 4: Stacking and Seasoning

Stack the Wood: Stack the split firewood in a single row, off the ground, in a well-ventilated area.
Allow to Season: Allow the wood to season for 6-12 months, or until the moisture content is 20% or less.

Step 5: Burning

Start Small: Start your fire with small pieces of kindling and gradually add larger pieces of firewood.
Monitor the Fire: Keep an eye on the fire and add wood as needed to maintain a steady burn.
Clean the Chimney: Have your chimney cleaned annually to remove creosote buildup and prevent chimney fires.

Case Study: Seasoning Firewood in Different Climates

To illustrate the importance of proper seasoning, let’s look at two case studies: one in a dry climate and one in a humid climate.

Case Study 1: Dry Climate (Arizona)

In Arizona, the climate is hot and dry, with low humidity. Firewood can season relatively quickly in these conditions.

Project: A homeowner in Flagstaff, Arizona, wanted to season firewood for use in their wood-burning stove.
Method: They stacked the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a sunny location. They covered the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
Results: The firewood seasoned in approximately 6 months, reaching a moisture content of 15%.

Case Study 2: Humid Climate (Florida)

In Florida, the climate is hot and humid, with high humidity. Firewood can take much longer to season in these conditions.

Project: A homeowner in Miami, Florida, wanted to season firewood for use in their fireplace.
Method: They stacked the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a well-ventilated area. They left the sides of the stack open to allow for maximum airflow.
Results: The firewood took approximately 12 months to season, reaching a moisture content of 20%. They had to ensure the wood was well-spaced and exposed to as much wind as possible to combat the humidity.

Key Takeaway: Climate plays a significant role in the seasoning process. In dry climates, firewood can season relatively quickly. In humid climates, it can take much longer.

Final Thoughts: Mastering the Art of Wood Processing

Processing wood, whether for firewood or other purposes, is a rewarding but demanding task. It requires knowledge, skill, and a commitment to safety. By understanding the properties of wood, selecting the right tools, and following proper techniques, you can efficiently and safely transform trees into usable resources.

I’ve spent years honing my skills in the woods, and I’m still learning new things every day. The key is to be patient, persistent, and always prioritize safety. Whether you’re a seasoned arborist or a homeowner preparing firewood for the winter, I hope this article has provided you with valuable information and insights. Now, get out there and put your knowledge to the test!

Next Steps:

Assess your needs: Determine what type of wood processing you’ll be doing and select the appropriate tools and equipment.
Practice safety: Always wear appropriate PPE and follow safe operating procedures.
Start small: Begin with small projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
Seek advice: Don’t be afraid to ask for help from experienced woodcutters or arborists.
Stay informed: Continue to learn about new techniques and technologies in the wood processing industry.

The world of wood processing is constantly evolving, but the fundamentals remain the same. By mastering these fundamentals, you can become a skilled and efficient woodworker, capable of transforming raw materials into valuable resources.