350 Husqvarna Chainsaw Price (5 Repair Tips Every Arborist Knows)

“Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” – Abraham Lincoln

As an arborist with over two decades of experience, I’ve learned that preparation and the right tools are paramount to success. In this article, I’m diving deep into the world of the Husqvarna 350 chainsaw, a workhorse that has earned its place in the hearts (and hands) of many professionals and hobbyists alike. We’ll explore the Husqvarna 350 chainsaw price, performance, and, crucially, the five essential repair tips every arborist should know to keep this machine running smoothly.

The Enduring Appeal of the Husqvarna 350 Chainsaw

The Husqvarna 350 is a legend for a reason. It strikes a sweet spot between power, weight, and durability. It’s versatile enough for felling smaller trees, limbing larger ones, bucking firewood, and even tackling some light milling work. Its popularity stems from its reliability and relatively simple design, making it easier to maintain and repair than some of the more complex, modern chainsaws on the market.

Husqvarna 350 Chainsaw Price: What to Expect

The Husqvarna 350 is, unfortunately, no longer in production. This means you’ll likely be looking at the used market or refurbished models. The Husqvarna 350 chainsaw price can vary significantly depending on its condition, age, and location. Here’s a general idea of what you can expect in the current market:

• Used (Fair Condition): $150 – $250
• Used (Good Condition): $250 – $400
• Refurbished: $350 – $500+

Keep in mind that prices can fluctuate based on your region and availability. Websites like eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist are good places to start your search. Always inspect the chainsaw thoroughly before purchasing it, and don’t be afraid to ask questions about its history and maintenance.

Essential Husqvarna 350 Chainsaw Specs

Before we dive into repair tips, let’s recap the key specs that made the Husqvarna 350 a popular choice:

• Engine Displacement: 50.2 cc
• Power Output: 3.1 hp (2.3 kW)
• Weight (without bar and chain): Approximately 10.4 lbs (4.7 kg)
• Recommended Bar Length: 13-18 inches
• Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.5 US pints (0.7 liters)
• Oil Tank Capacity: 0.8 US pints (0.4 liters)

These specs highlight its balance of power and portability. The 50.2cc engine provides ample power for a variety of tasks, while its relatively light weight makes it easy to handle for extended periods.

5 Repair Tips Every Arborist Knows (and You Should Too!)

Over the years, I’ve seen countless Husqvarna 350s come into my shop for repair. Here are the five most common issues and the fixes every arborist should know:

1. The Carburetor Conundrum: Tuning for Peak Performance

The carburetor is the heart of your chainsaw’s fuel system. A poorly tuned carburetor can lead to a host of problems, including:

• Difficult starting
• Poor idling
• Stalling under load
• Reduced power

Why it matters: Carburetors mix fuel and air in precise ratios. Changes in altitude, temperature, and fuel quality can all affect this mixture, requiring adjustments.

The Fix: Learn to tune your carburetor. The Husqvarna 350 typically has three adjustment screws:

• L (Low): Controls the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
• H (High): Controls the fuel mixture at high speeds.
• T (Idle): Adjusts the engine’s idle speed.

The Process:

1. Warm up the engine: Let the chainsaw run for a few minutes to reach operating temperature.
2. Adjust the “L” screw: Turn the “L” screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down. Then, slowly turn it counterclockwise until the engine idles smoothly.
3. Adjust the “T” screw: Adjust the “T” screw until the chain stops moving at idle. You want the engine to idle smoothly without the chain creeping.
4. Adjust the “H” screw: This is the trickiest one. You want to adjust the “H” screw so the engine runs at its peak RPM under load without sounding like it’s screaming. A tachometer is helpful here. If you don’t have one, listen carefully to the engine. It should sound strong and responsive, not strained or sputtering.
5. Fine-tune: Make small adjustments to each screw until you achieve optimal performance.

Pro Tip: A lean mixture (too much air, not enough fuel) can damage your engine. If you’re unsure, it’s better to err on the side of a slightly richer mixture (more fuel).

Data Point: Studies show that properly tuned carburetors can improve fuel efficiency by up to 15% and extend engine life by 20%.

2. Fuel System Foibles: Cleaning and Maintenance

A clean fuel system is crucial for reliable chainsaw operation. Common problems include:

• Clogged fuel filter
• Dirty carburetor
• Stale fuel

Why it matters: Debris in the fuel can clog the carburetor’s tiny passages, restricting fuel flow and causing the engine to run poorly or not at all. Stale fuel can also gum up the carburetor and fuel lines.

The Fix: Regular cleaning and maintenance.

The Process:

1. Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter regularly (every 25 hours of use or at least once a year). It’s located inside the fuel tank, attached to the end of the fuel line. Use a small hook or bent wire to pull it out.
2. Carburetor Cleaning: If your chainsaw is running poorly, the carburetor may need cleaning. You can use a carburetor cleaner spray to clean the exterior of the carburetor. For a more thorough cleaning, disassemble the carburetor and soak the parts in carburetor cleaner. Be sure to reassemble it correctly, using a diagram as a reference.
3. Fuel Lines: Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or leaks. Replace them if necessary.
4. Fuel Storage: Always use fresh fuel. Store fuel in a clean, airtight container and add a fuel stabilizer to prevent it from going stale. Discard any fuel that is more than a few months old.

Personal Story: I once had a client who couldn’t figure out why his Husqvarna 350 wouldn’t start. After checking everything else, I discovered that the fuel filter was completely clogged with debris. A simple filter replacement solved the problem. He had been using old fuel and hadn’t replaced the filter in years.

Actionable Advice: Make it a habit to inspect and clean your fuel system regularly. It’s a simple task that can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

3. Ignition Issues: Spark Plug and Coil Checks

A faulty ignition system can prevent your chainsaw from starting or cause it to run erratically. Common problems include:

• Fouled spark plug
• Weak spark
• Faulty ignition coil

Why it matters: The ignition system generates the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder. Without a strong spark, the engine won’t run.

The Fix: Inspect and test the spark plug and ignition coil.

The Process:

1. Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and inspect it. A healthy spark plug should have a clean, dry electrode. If it’s fouled with carbon deposits or oil, clean it with a wire brush or replace it. Check the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge and adjust it to the manufacturer’s specifications (typically 0.020-0.025 inches).
2. Spark Test: Reconnect the spark plug to the spark plug wire and ground the spark plug against the engine block. Pull the starter cord. You should see a strong, blue spark. If the spark is weak or nonexistent, the ignition coil may be faulty.
3. Ignition Coil: To test the ignition coil, you’ll need a multimeter. Disconnect the coil from the spark plug wire and measure the resistance between the coil’s terminals. Compare the reading to the manufacturer’s specifications. If the resistance is outside the specified range, the coil needs to be replaced.

Case Study: In a recent workshop, I helped a group of arborists troubleshoot ignition problems on their chainsaws. One arborist had a Husqvarna 350 with a weak spark. After testing the ignition coil, we found that it was outside the specified resistance range. Replacing the coil solved the problem and restored the chainsaw to full power.

Industry Statistic: Approximately 20% of chainsaw failures are due to ignition system problems. Regular spark plug maintenance and coil testing can help prevent these failures.

4. Chain and Bar Blues: Maintenance for Optimal Cutting

A dull or improperly maintained chain and bar can reduce cutting efficiency, increase the risk of kickback, and put unnecessary strain on the engine. Common problems include:

• Dull chain
• Worn bar
• Improper chain tension
• Insufficient lubrication

Why it matters: A sharp chain cuts quickly and efficiently, reducing the amount of effort required to operate the chainsaw. A properly maintained bar provides a stable platform for the chain to run on.

The Fix: Regular sharpening, bar maintenance, and proper lubrication.

The Process:

1. Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly with a chainsaw file or a chain grinder. Maintain the correct filing angles and depth gauge settings. A sharp chain will pull itself into the wood, requiring less force from the operator.
2. Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and burrs. Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and restore the rails to their original shape. Flip the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.
3. Chain Tension: Adjust the chain tension so that it fits snugly against the bar but can still be pulled around by hand. Too much tension can cause the chain to bind and wear prematurely. Too little tension can cause the chain to derail.
4. Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Proper lubrication reduces friction and heat, extending the life of the chain and bar.

Unique Insight: The type of wood you’re cutting affects chain sharpness. Cutting hardwoods like oak and maple will dull the chain faster than cutting softwoods like pine and fir. Adjust your sharpening frequency accordingly.

Practical Tip: Invest in a good-quality chainsaw file and learn how to sharpen your chain properly. It’s a skill that will save you time and money in the long run.

5. Starting System Snags: Recoil Starter Repair

A malfunctioning recoil starter can be frustrating and time-consuming to repair. Common problems include:

• Broken starter rope
• Worn starter pawls
• Weak recoil spring

Why it matters: The recoil starter is responsible for turning the engine over and getting it started. A faulty starter can prevent you from using your chainsaw.

The Fix: Replace the starter rope, pawls, or recoil spring as needed.

The Process:

1. Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the recoil starter, noting the position of each part.
2. Inspection: Inspect the starter rope, pawls, and recoil spring for wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged parts.
3. Rope Replacement: To replace the starter rope, thread the new rope through the hole in the starter pulley and tie a knot at the end. Wind the rope around the pulley, preloading the recoil spring.
4. Pawl Replacement: Replace the starter pawls if they are worn or damaged. The pawls engage with the flywheel to turn the engine over.
5. Spring Replacement: If the recoil spring is weak, replace it with a new one. Be careful when handling the recoil spring, as it is under tension and can cause injury if released suddenly.
6. Reassembly: Reassemble the recoil starter, making sure that all parts are in their correct positions. Test the starter to make sure it is working properly.

Real-World Example: I once spent an entire afternoon trying to start a Husqvarna 350 with a broken starter rope. After finally getting the starter apart, I realized that the rope had frayed and snapped. Replacing the rope took only a few minutes and got the chainsaw running again.

Call to Action: If you’re not comfortable repairing the recoil starter yourself, take it to a qualified chainsaw repair technician. It’s a relatively simple repair that can save you a lot of time and frustration.

Wood Anatomy and Properties: Understanding Your Material

To effectively use and maintain your chainsaw, it’s essential to understand the basics of wood anatomy and properties. Different types of wood have different characteristics that affect how they cut, split, and burn.

Hardwood vs. Softwood

The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” refer to the type of tree the wood comes from, not necessarily its actual hardness. Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall), while softwoods come from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones).

Hardwood Characteristics:

• Denser and heavier than softwood
• Burns longer and hotter
• More difficult to split
• Examples: Oak, maple, ash, birch

Softwood Characteristics:

• Less dense and lighter than hardwood
• Burns faster and cooler
• Easier to split
• Examples: Pine, fir, spruce, cedar

Moisture Content

Moisture content is the amount of water in wood, expressed as a percentage of its dry weight. Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or more. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Why it matters:

• Wet wood is harder to cut and split
• Wet wood burns poorly and produces more smoke
• Wet wood is more likely to rot and attract insects

Drying Wood:

To season firewood, stack it in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year. The drying time will depend on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.

Data Point: Studies have shown that properly seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green wood.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices

Choosing the right logging tools and maintaining them properly is crucial for safety, efficiency, and longevity.

Chainsaw Selection

When selecting a chainsaw, consider the following factors:

• Engine size: Choose an engine size that is appropriate for the size of the trees you will be cutting.
• Bar length: Choose a bar length that is long enough to cut through the largest trees you will be felling.
• Weight: Choose a chainsaw that is light enough to handle comfortably for extended periods.
• Features: Consider features such as anti-vibration systems, chain brakes, and easy starting.

Logging Tool Maintenance

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your logging tools in good working order.

• Chainsaw: Sharpen the chain regularly, clean the bar and chain, check the fuel and oil levels, and inspect the air filter.
• Axes and Splitting Mauls: Keep the blades sharp and free of rust. Inspect the handles for cracks or damage.
• Wedges: Inspect wedges for cracks or damage. Replace them if necessary.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Inspect your PPE regularly for wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged items.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Seasoning firewood properly is essential for efficient burning and reducing the risk of chimney fires. Safety should always be your top priority when handling firewood.

Seasoning Techniques

• Stacking: Stack firewood in a single row, with the bark side up. This will allow air to circulate freely and promote drying.
• Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for your firewood pile.
• Covering: Cover the top of the firewood pile to protect it from rain and snow.
• Drying Time: Allow firewood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year.

Safety Considerations

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Wear appropriate PPE, including gloves, safety glasses, and hearing protection.
• Lifting: Lift firewood with your legs, not your back.
• Stacking: Stack firewood carefully to prevent it from falling.
• Storage: Store firewood away from your house to reduce the risk of insect infestations.

Project Planning and Execution

Proper project planning and execution are essential for successful wood processing and firewood preparation projects.

Planning

• Define your goals: Determine the amount of firewood you need and the type of wood you want to use.
• Assess your resources: Evaluate your equipment, tools, and available time.
• Develop a plan: Create a detailed plan that outlines the steps you will take to complete the project.

Execution

• Follow your plan: Stick to your plan as closely as possible.
• Work safely: Always prioritize safety.
• Monitor your progress: Track your progress and make adjustments as needed.
• Clean up: Clean up your work area after you finish.

Conclusion: Keeping Your Husqvarna 350 Running Strong

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