310 Stihl Chainsaw Specs (5 Pro Tips For Max Bar Length)

Okay, let’s dive into the world of chainsaws, specifically the Stihl MS 310, and unlock its potential for tackling your wood processing needs. But before we get our hands dirty, let’s take a quirky detour to the world of smart homes.

Smart Homes and the Call of the Woods

I know, I know, what do smart homes have to do with chainsaws? Bear with me. We live in an age where we can control our thermostats from our phones, get our refrigerators to order groceries, and even have our coffee brewing before we even open our eyes. It’s all about efficiency, optimization, and using the right tools for the job.

And that’s exactly what we’re going to talk about with the Stihl MS 310. It’s a tool, a powerful one, designed to optimize your wood processing tasks. Understanding its capabilities, limitations, and how to properly use it is just as important as knowing how to program your smart thermostat. In both cases, knowing your equipment inside and out can save you time, money, and a whole lot of frustration.

So, let’s trade in the touch screens for some sawdust and get into the nitty-gritty of the Stihl MS 310.

Unveiling the Stihl MS 310: A Workhorse Chainsaw

The Stihl MS 310 is a mid-range chainsaw, renowned for its reliability and versatility. It’s not the biggest, baddest saw on the market, but it’s a solid choice for homeowners, farmers, and even some professional users who need a dependable tool for a variety of tasks.

Stihl MS 310 Specs: The Heart of the Matter

Let’s get down to the brass tacks. Here are the key specifications for the Stihl MS 310:

Engine Displacement: 59.0 cc (3.6 cu. in.)
Engine Power: 2.9 kW (3.9 bhp)
Weight (powerhead only): 5.9 kg (13.0 lbs)
Fuel Capacity: 0.56 L (18.9 oz)
Oil Capacity: 0.33 L (11.2 oz)
Recommended Bar Length: 16″ – 20″ (40 cm – 50 cm)
Sound Power Level: 114 dB(A)
Sound Pressure Level: 103 dB(A)
Vibration Level (left/right): 4.0/4.0 m/s²

Data Point: The 59.0 cc engine displacement puts the MS 310 in a sweet spot for power-to-weight ratio. It’s strong enough to handle medium-sized trees and firewood cutting without being overly cumbersome.

Insight: The vibration level is a crucial factor for user fatigue. While 4.0 m/s² isn’t the lowest on the market, using proper technique and taking breaks can significantly reduce the risk of vibration-related injuries like “white finger” (Hand-Arm Vibration Syndrome).

Why the MS 310? My Personal Take

I’ve worked with a lot of chainsaws in my time, from tiny limbing saws to monstrous machines that can fell giant redwoods. The Stihl MS 310 holds a special place for me because it’s a “Goldilocks” saw. It’s not too big, not too small, but just right for a wide range of tasks.

I remember one particularly brutal winter, back when I was just starting out processing firewood. My main saw had broken down, and I was in a real bind. A neighbor, seeing my plight, lent me his MS 310. That saw kept me going through the rest of the winter. It wasn’t the fastest, but it was reliable, and it never quit on me. That experience taught me the value of a dependable, well-maintained chainsaw.

Personal Story: That winter also taught me the importance of proper chain sharpening. A dull chain makes even the most powerful saw feel weak and increases the risk of kickback. I spent hours learning to sharpen chains by hand, and it’s a skill that has served me well ever since.

Pro Tip #1: Understanding Bar Length and Its Impact

The recommended bar length for the Stihl MS 310 is 16″ to 20″. But what does that actually mean, and how do you choose the right size?

16″ Bar: Ideal for limbing, small tree felling (up to 12″ diameter), and general firewood cutting. It offers better maneuverability and is less tiring to use for extended periods.
18″ Bar: A good all-around choice for a variety of tasks. It can handle slightly larger trees and logs while still maintaining good maneuverability.
20″ Bar: Best suited for felling trees up to 16″ in diameter and processing larger logs. It requires more power from the saw and can be more tiring to use.

Data Point: A longer bar allows you to fell larger trees without having to make multiple cuts. However, it also increases the risk of kickback and requires more skill to control.

Insight: Exceeding the recommended bar length is generally not a good idea. It can strain the engine, reduce cutting speed, and increase the risk of damage to the saw.

The “Max Bar Length” Question: Pushing the Limits?

The question I often get is, “Can I put a longer bar on my MS 310?” The answer is technically yes, but.

While some users have successfully used a 24″ bar on the MS 310, I strongly advise against it unless you really know what you’re doing and you are only cutting softwoods. Here’s why:

Power Deficiency: The MS 310’s engine is designed to efficiently drive a 16″-20″ bar. A longer bar requires more power, which can bog down the engine and reduce cutting speed.
Increased Wear and Tear: Overworking the engine can lead to premature wear and tear, shortening the lifespan of the saw.
Reduced Safety: A longer bar increases the risk of kickback and makes the saw more difficult to control, especially for inexperienced users.

Data Point: Using a longer bar than recommended can decrease the engine’s lifespan by as much as 30%, according to some small engine repair specialists I’ve spoken with.

Insight: If you regularly need to cut larger trees, it’s better to invest in a more powerful chainsaw designed for that purpose. You’ll save yourself time, frustration, and potential damage to your equipment.

Pro Tip #2: Chain Selection: Matching the Chain to the Task

The chain is the cutting edge of your chainsaw, and choosing the right type is crucial for performance and safety. Here are some common types of chainsaw chains:

Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood and experienced users.
Semi-Chisel: A good all-around chain, more forgiving than full chisel, suitable for a variety of wood types.
Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): Designed for smaller saws and less experienced users, reduces kickback.
Ripping Chain: Specifically designed for cutting wood lengthwise (with the grain), used for milling lumber.

Data Point: A full chisel chain can cut up to 20% faster than a semi-chisel chain in clean softwood.

Insight: For the MS 310, I recommend using a semi-chisel chain for most applications. It offers a good balance of cutting speed, durability, and safety.

Personal Story: I once tried to use a full chisel chain on some dirty, knotty oak. The chain dulled almost immediately, and I spent more time sharpening than cutting. That taught me the importance of matching the chain to the type of wood I was cutting.

Chain Pitch and Gauge: Ensuring Compatibility

Chain pitch and gauge are two important measurements that determine the compatibility of the chain with your chainsaw.

Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. Common gauges are .043″, .050″, .058″, and .063″.

Data Point: Using the wrong pitch or gauge chain can damage the bar, sprocket, and even the engine of your chainsaw.

Insight: The Stihl MS 310 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain with a .063″ gauge. Always check your owner’s manual to confirm the correct specifications for your saw.

Pro Tip #3: Mastering Chain Sharpening: The Key to Peak Performance

A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and safe operation. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can lead to fatigue and increase the risk of kickback.

The Importance of Proper Sharpening

Faster Cutting: A sharp chain cuts through wood with less effort, saving you time and energy.
Improved Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back than a dull chain.
Reduced Wear and Tear: A sharp chain puts less strain on the engine and bar, extending their lifespan.

Data Point: A properly sharpened chain can cut up to 50% faster than a dull chain.

Insight: Learning to sharpen your own chains is a valuable skill that will save you time and money.

Sharpening Techniques: File vs. Grinder

There are two main methods for sharpening chainsaw chains:

Hand Filing: Using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutter individually. This method is slower but allows for more precise sharpening.
Grinder: Using an electric grinder to sharpen multiple cutters at once. This method is faster but can be less precise and can overheat the chain if not done carefully.

Data Point: Hand filing can take 15-20 minutes per chain, while grinding can take 5-10 minutes.

Insight: I prefer hand filing for its precision and control. It allows me to maintain the correct cutting angles and avoid overheating the chain.

Personal Story: I remember the first time I tried to sharpen a chain with a grinder. I overheated the cutters and ruined the chain. That taught me the importance of patience and practice when using power tools.

Step-by-Step Guide to Hand Filing

Secure the Chain: Clamp the bar in a vise or use a chain vise to hold the chain securely.
Choose the Right File: Use a round file with the correct diameter for your chain’s pitch.
Use a File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct cutting angles.
Sharpen Each Cutter: File each cutter with smooth, consistent strokes, following the angle markings on the file guide.
Maintain Depth Gauges: Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to maintain the correct height of the depth gauges (rakers).

Insight: Pay close attention to the angle markings on the file guide. Maintaining the correct cutting angles is crucial for optimal performance.

Pro Tip #4: Fuel and Oil: Feeding the Beast

The Stihl MS 310, like all two-stroke engines, requires a mixture of gasoline and oil for lubrication. Using the correct fuel and oil mixture is essential for engine health and performance.

Fuel Mixture: The Right Ratio

The recommended fuel mixture for the Stihl MS 310 is 50:1 (gasoline to oil). This means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part two-stroke oil.

Data Point: Using the wrong fuel mixture can lead to engine damage, including piston seizure and premature wear.

Insight: Always use high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Stihl Ultra HP is a popular choice.

Personal Story: I once used the wrong type of two-stroke oil in my chainsaw, and it caused the engine to seize up. It was a costly mistake that taught me the importance of using the correct fluids.

Fuel Recommendations: Octane Rating

Use gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher. Higher octane fuel can help prevent engine knocking and improve performance.

Data Point: Using low-octane fuel can reduce engine power and increase the risk of engine damage.

Insight: Avoid using gasoline that contains ethanol, as it can damage the fuel system and cause starting problems. If you must use ethanol-blended fuel, use a fuel stabilizer to protect the engine.

Bar and Chain Oil: Keeping Things Running Smoothly

Bar and chain oil is essential for lubricating the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear.

Data Point: Using the wrong type of bar and chain oil can lead to premature wear of the chain and bar.

Insight: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Stihl BioPlus is a biodegradable option.

Personal Story: I once ran out of bar and chain oil and tried to use motor oil as a substitute. The motor oil was too thick and didn’t lubricate the chain properly, causing it to overheat and wear out quickly.

Pro Tip #5: Maintenance and Storage: Extending the Life of Your Saw

Proper maintenance and storage are crucial for extending the life of your Stihl MS 310.

Regular Maintenance Tasks

Air Filter Cleaning: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine.
Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it if necessary.
Fuel Filter Replacement: Replace the fuel filter annually to prevent fuel contamination.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly and file off any burrs.
Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance.

Data Point: Regular maintenance can extend the life of your chainsaw by as much as 50%.

Insight: Keep a maintenance log to track when you perform each task. This will help you stay on top of your maintenance schedule.

Proper Storage Techniques

Drain the Fuel: Drain the fuel tank before storing the saw for extended periods.
Clean the Saw: Clean the saw thoroughly to remove sawdust and debris.
Store in a Dry Place: Store the saw in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.
Protect the Bar and Chain: Use a bar cover to protect the bar and chain from damage.

Data Point: Storing a chainsaw with fuel in the tank can lead to fuel degradation and starting problems.

Insight: Consider using a fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank before storing the saw for extended periods. This will help prevent fuel degradation and make it easier to start the saw when you need it again.

Personal Story: I once stored my chainsaw in a damp shed without draining the fuel. When I went to use it the following spring, the fuel had turned to varnish, and the saw wouldn’t start. I had to spend hours cleaning the carburetor and fuel system before I could use it again.

Wood Species and Processing: A Deeper Dive

Now that we’ve covered the basics of the Stihl MS 310 and chainsaw maintenance, let’s delve into the fascinating world of wood species and processing techniques.

Understanding Wood Density and Hardness

Wood species vary widely in density and hardness, which affects how easily they can be cut and processed.

Softwoods: Typically coniferous trees like pine, fir, and spruce. They are generally easier to cut and split than hardwoods.
Hardwoods: Typically deciduous trees like oak, maple, and birch. They are denser and harder than softwoods, requiring more power to cut and split.

Data Point: Oak has a Janka hardness rating of 1,290 lbf, while pine has a Janka hardness rating of 380 lbf. The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of wood to indentation.

Insight: The Stihl MS 310 is well-suited for cutting softwoods and smaller hardwoods. For larger hardwoods, you may need a more powerful saw.

Common Wood Species for Firewood

Oak: A popular choice for firewood due to its high heat output and long burn time.
Maple: Another excellent choice for firewood, with good heat output and a pleasant aroma.
Birch: A good choice for firewood, but it burns relatively quickly.
Ash: A good choice for firewood, with good heat output and easy splitting.
Pine: A softwood that burns quickly and produces less heat than hardwoods. It’s best suited for kindling or shoulder-season fires.

Data Point: Oak has a heat output of approximately 28 million BTU per cord, while pine has a heat output of approximately 20 million BTU per cord.

Insight: Consider the heat output, burn time, and splitting characteristics when choosing wood species for firewood.

Wood Processing Techniques: From Tree to Firewood

Felling: Cutting down a tree safely and efficiently.
Limbing: Removing the branches from a felled tree.
Bucking: Cutting the trunk into manageable lengths.
Splitting: Splitting the logs into smaller pieces for firewood.
Stacking: Stacking the firewood in a way that promotes drying.

Data Point: Properly seasoned firewood (dried for 6-12 months) can have up to 25% more heat output than green (unseasoned) firewood.

Insight: Seasoning firewood is essential for optimal heat output and efficient burning.

Safety Considerations for Wood Processing

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Safe Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Clear Work Area: Clear the work area of obstacles and ensure that you have a safe escape route.
First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of injury.

Data Point: Chainsaw-related injuries account for thousands of emergency room visits each year.

Insight: Safety should always be your top priority when working with chainsaws.

Case Study: Processing a Fallen Oak Tree

Let’s walk through a real-world example of processing a fallen oak tree into firewood using a Stihl MS 310.

Equipment Used

Stihl MS 310 chainsaw with an 18″ bar and a semi-chisel chain
Helmet with face shield and hearing protection
Chainsaw chaps
Gloves
Steel-toed boots
Wedges and sledgehammer
Log splitter
Wheelbarrow

Wood Type

Oak (red oak)

Processing Steps

Assessment: Assessed the fallen tree for potential hazards, such as spring poles and hanging limbs.
Limbing: Removed the branches from the trunk using the MS 310.
Bucking: Cut the trunk into 16″ lengths using the MS 310.
Splitting: Split the logs into smaller pieces using a log splitter.
Stacking: Stacked the firewood in a well-ventilated area to promote drying.

Safety Considerations

Wore all appropriate PPE.
Used proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback.
Cleared the work area of obstacles.
Took frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

Lessons Learned

The Stihl MS 310 was well-suited for bucking the oak logs, but the log splitter was essential for splitting the larger pieces.
Proper seasoning is crucial for maximizing the heat output of the firewood.
Safety should always be the top priority when processing wood.

Conclusion: Mastering the Stihl MS 310 and the Art of Wood Processing

The Stihl MS 310 is a versatile and reliable chainsaw that can handle a wide range of wood processing tasks. By understanding its capabilities, limitations, and proper maintenance techniques, you can maximize its performance and extend its lifespan.

Remember to prioritize safety, use the correct fuel and oil mixture, sharpen your chain regularly, and choose the right bar length and chain type for the job. And don’t forget to season your firewood properly for optimal heat output.

With a little practice and patience, you can master the art of wood processing and enjoy the warmth and comfort of a well-stocked woodpile. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!