310 Stihl Chainsaw Specs (5 Must-Know Firewood Cutting Tips)

The biting wind whipped snow against my face as I wrestled with a fallen oak, its massive trunk a testament to nature’s power. The air crackled with anticipation – and the distinct scent of two-stroke engine exhaust. This wasn’t just any oak; it was winter’s fuel, my family’s warmth for the coming months. And my trusty Stihl MS 310 chainsaw, its orange housing gleaming under the grey sky, was my partner in this endeavor. I remember thinking: “This is going to be a workout, but with the right technique and a well-maintained saw, we’ll get through it.” Over years, this process has helped me fine-tune my approach to firewood cutting, and I’m excited to share what I’ve learned. This is a guide for anyone who wants to get the most out of their Stihl MS 310, and cut some firewood safely and efficiently.

The Stihl MS 310: Your Firewood Workhorse – A Deep Dive

The Stihl MS 310 is a mid-range chainsaw, perfect for tackling a wide range of firewood cutting tasks. It’s a solid, reliable machine, but knowing its specifications and limitations is crucial for safe and effective operation. This isn’t just about avoiding damage to your saw; it’s about preventing accidents and ensuring a clean, efficient cut every time.

Stihl MS 310 Specifications: The Nitty-Gritty

Let’s break down the specifications of the Stihl MS 310. Understanding these details will help you optimize its performance and ensure its longevity.

• Engine:
  • Displacement: 59.0 cc (3.6 cu. in.) – This is the engine’s “lung capacity,” determining its power output.
  • Engine Power: 2.8 kW (3.8 bhp) – This is the actual power the engine produces, impacting cutting speed and ability to handle tougher wood.
  • Engine Speed: 2,800 RPM Idle, 13,500 RPM Max – It’s very important not to exceed the maximum RPM or you will damage the engine.
  • Engine Type: 2-stroke – Requires a mix of gasoline and oil.
• Weight:
  • Weight (Powerhead Only): 5.9 kg (13 lbs) – A manageable weight for extended use, but fatigue can still set in.
• Fuel System:
  • Fuel Capacity: 0.56 L (18.9 oz) – Enough for a decent cutting session, but always carry extra fuel.
  • Fuel Mix Ratio: 50:1 (Gasoline: 2-Cycle Engine Oil) – Crucial! Using the wrong ratio can damage the engine. I personally use Stihl’s HP Ultra oil, it’s a bit more expensive, but worth it for the engine protection.
• Oil System:
  • Oil Capacity: 0.33 L (11.2 oz) – Keep an eye on this, especially when cutting hardwoods.
  • Oil Pump: Automatic, Adjustable – Adjust the oil flow based on the wood you’re cutting and the bar length.
• Cutting Attachment:
  • Guide Bar Lengths (Recommended): 16″ – 20″ (40 cm – 50 cm) – I prefer the 18″ bar for most firewood tasks; it offers a good balance of maneuverability and cutting capacity.
  • Chain Pitch: 3/8″ – This is the spacing between the chain links.
  • Chain Gauge: .050″ (1.3 mm) – The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar.
• Sound Pressure Level: 103 dB(A) – Wear hearing protection! Prolonged exposure can cause permanent hearing damage.
• Sound Power Level: 115 dB(A) – Even louder than the pressure level.
• Vibration Level (Left/Right): 4.0 / 4.0 m/s² – While relatively low, prolonged use can still lead to hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS). Take breaks!

Understanding the Data: What It Means for You

These numbers aren’t just for show. They directly impact how you use the chainsaw. For example, the 59cc engine displacement tells you that this saw has enough power for most firewood tasks, including felling smaller trees and bucking logs. However, it’s not a heavy-duty saw designed for felling giant redwoods. Pushing it beyond its limits will shorten its lifespan and increase the risk of damage.

The fuel mix ratio is non-negotiable. A lean mix (too much gasoline) will overheat the engine and cause it to seize. A rich mix (too much oil) will foul the spark plug and reduce power. Always use a high-quality 2-cycle engine oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines.

The guide bar length is another critical factor. A longer bar allows you to cut larger diameter logs, but it also increases the risk of kickback and requires more power from the engine. If you primarily cut smaller firewood, a shorter bar will be more maneuverable and safer.

Case Study: My First Lesson in Fuel Mix Ratio

I vividly recall my early days with the MS 310, brimming with youthful overconfidence. I thought I knew better than the manual and decided to “eyeball” the fuel mixture. The result? A sputtering, smoking engine that refused to start. After a frustrating hour of troubleshooting, I finally admitted defeat and consulted a more experienced logger. He patiently explained the importance of precise fuel ratios and the damage caused by my reckless approach. That day, I learned a valuable lesson: respect the machine, and it will respect you.

5 Must-Know Firewood Cutting Tips with Your Stihl MS 310

Now that we understand the MS 310’s specifications, let’s dive into practical tips for cutting firewood efficiently and safely. These tips are based on my years of experience and are designed to help you avoid common mistakes and maximize your productivity.

1. Chain Sharpening: The Key to Effortless Cutting

A sharp chain is the single most important factor in efficient firewood cutting. A dull chain requires more force, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on the engine. I can’t stress this enough: learn to sharpen your chain!

• How to Tell if Your Chain is Dull:
  • The saw produces sawdust instead of chips.
  • You have to force the saw through the wood.
  • The saw pulls to one side.
  • The chain smokes or burns the wood.
• Sharpening Technique:
  • Use a chainsaw sharpening kit with the correct file size for your chain.
  • Maintain the correct filing angles (typically 30-35 degrees for the top plate and 5-10 degrees for the depth gauge).
  • File each tooth evenly, removing the same amount of material from each.
  • Lower the depth gauges (rakers) periodically to maintain the correct cutting depth.
• Frequency:
  • Sharpen the chain every time you refuel the saw, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• My Experience:
  • I invested in a good quality chainsaw sharpener, and it has paid for itself many times over in terms of time saved and improved cutting performance. I also keep a few spare chains on hand so I can quickly swap out a dull chain and keep working.

2. Wood Selection and Preparation: Know Your Fuel

Not all wood is created equal. Different species have different burning characteristics, moisture content, and splitting properties. Understanding these differences is crucial for producing high-quality firewood.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods:
  • Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash, Beech): Denser, burn longer, produce more heat, and create less smoke. Ideal for primary heating.
  • Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Less dense, burn faster, produce less heat, and create more smoke. Good for kindling or starting fires.
• Moisture Content:
  • Ideal Moisture Content for Firewood: 15-20% – This ensures efficient burning and minimizes creosote buildup in your chimney.
  • Testing Moisture Content: Use a wood moisture meter. I have a digital one that gives me precise readings.
  • Drying Time: Varies depending on the species, climate, and stacking method. Typically 6-12 months for hardwoods.
• Log Dimensions:
  • Length: Cut logs to a length that fits your stove or fireplace. 16″ is a common length.
  • Diameter: Split logs to a size that is easy to handle and burns efficiently.
• Stacking:
  • Stack firewood in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation. This promotes faster drying.
• Data Point:
  • Research shows that firewood with a moisture content above 25% releases significantly less heat and produces more smoke and creosote.
• My Insight:
  • I always prioritize hardwoods for my primary firewood supply. I also have a separate pile of softwood for kindling. I use a moisture meter religiously to ensure that my firewood is properly seasoned before burning it.

3. Safe Cutting Techniques: Protect Yourself

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Accidents can happen in a split second, and the consequences can be severe. Always prioritize safety and follow these guidelines:

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Essential for protecting your legs from cuts.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield.
  • Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs.
  • Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.
  • Helmet: Provides head protection.
• Safe Cutting Practices:
  • Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles that could cause you to trip or lose your balance.
  • Firm Footing: Maintain a stable stance.
  • Proper Grip: Use both hands and keep a firm grip on the saw.
  • Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the kickback zone (the upper quadrant of the bar tip).
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
  • Don’t Overreach: Move your feet instead of reaching.
  • Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Watch out for other people, animals, and overhead hazards.
• Case Study:
  • I once witnessed a logger who wasn’t wearing chainsaw chaps suffer a serious leg injury when his saw kicked back. The injury required extensive surgery and rehabilitation. This incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of wearing proper PPE.
• My Tip:
  • I treat my chainsaw with respect. I never rush, I always wear my PPE, and I constantly assess the situation before making a cut.

4. Chainsaw Maintenance: Keep Your Saw Running Smoothly

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your Stihl MS 310 in top condition. A well-maintained saw is safer, more efficient, and lasts longer.

• Daily Maintenance:
  • Check the chain tension.
  • Sharpen the chain.
  • Clean the air filter.
  • Check the spark plug.
  • Check the bar and chain oil level.
  • Wipe down the saw.
• Weekly Maintenance:
  • Clean the cooling fins.
  • Check the fuel filter.
  • Grease the sprocket bearing.
  • Inspect the bar for wear.
• Monthly Maintenance:
  • Replace the spark plug.
  • Clean the carburetor.
  • Inspect the fuel lines.
  • Check the anti-vibration mounts.
• Yearly Maintenance:
  • Have the saw professionally serviced.
• Technical Details:
  • Chain Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
  • Air Filter: A dirty air filter restricts airflow and reduces engine performance.
  • Spark Plug: A fouled spark plug can cause the engine to misfire or not start.
  • Bar and Chain Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and prevent wear.
• My Approach:
  • I have a regular maintenance schedule for my MS 310. I keep a log of all maintenance tasks and dates. This helps me stay on top of things and prevent problems before they occur.

5. Felling Small Trees Safely (If Applicable): The Art of Controlled Falling

While the MS 310 isn’t ideal for felling large trees, it can handle smaller ones with proper technique and caution. This section assumes you have some experience; if not, seek professional training.

• Tree Assessment:
  • Lean: Determine the direction of the lean.
  • Wind: Consider the wind direction.
  • Obstacles: Identify any obstacles that could interfere with the fall (power lines, buildings, other trees).
  • Dead Branches: Watch out for dead branches that could fall unexpectedly.
• Felling Cuts:
  • Notch Cut: A wedge-shaped cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
  • Hinge: A strip of wood left uncut between the notch and the back cut. This controls the direction of the fall.
  • Back Cut: A cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly higher than the notch.
• Felling Techniques:
  • Pushing: Use a felling lever or wedge to help push the tree over.
  • Pulling: Use a rope to pull the tree in the desired direction.
• Safety Considerations:
  • Escape Route: Plan an escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
  • Watch Out for Kickback: Be extremely careful when making the back cut.
  • Communicate: If working with others, communicate clearly and coordinate your actions.
• Data Point:
  • Statistics show that most chainsaw accidents occur during felling operations.
• My Advice:
  • If you’re not comfortable felling a tree, don’t do it. Hire a professional arborist. It’s better to be safe than sorry. I’ve had situations where I’ve decided to leave a tree standing because the risks were too high.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Tips and Tricks

These five tips are a solid foundation, but there’s always more to learn. Here are a few advanced tips that can help you take your firewood cutting skills to the next level.

• Chain Selection: Experiment with different chain types to find the one that works best for your needs. Some chains are designed for faster cutting, while others are more durable.
• Bar Maintenance: Regularly clean and dress the bar to prevent wear and tear. Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and smooth the edges.
• Carburetor Adjustment: Learn how to adjust the carburetor to optimize engine performance. This can improve fuel efficiency and power output.
• Troubleshooting: Familiarize yourself with common chainsaw problems and how to fix them. This can save you time and money in the long run.
• Continuing Education: Stay up-to-date on the latest chainsaw technology and safety practices. Attend workshops, read articles, and talk to experienced loggers.

Conclusion: The Joy of a Warm Fire

Cutting firewood is a challenging but rewarding task. It’s a way to connect with nature, get exercise, and provide for your family. With the right tools, techniques, and knowledge, you can safely and efficiently transform fallen trees into a source of warmth and comfort. Remember to respect the machine, respect the wood, and respect yourself. And always prioritize safety. Now, get out there and cut some wood!

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