310 Stihl Chainsaw Bar Lengths (5 Pro Tips for Safe Mods)
Let’s dive deep into the world of the Stihl MS 310 chainsaw and explore the nuances of bar lengths and modifications, all while keeping safety at the forefront. The Stihl MS 310 is a workhorse, a mid-range saw beloved by many for its reliability and power. But what truly sets it apart is its versatility, which is significantly influenced by the bar length you choose.
I’ve spent years in the woods, felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood. I’ve seen firsthand how the right bar length can make a world of difference, turning a grueling task into an efficient operation. Conversely, I’ve also witnessed the dangers of using an improperly sized bar, leading to kickback, strain, and even serious injury.
This isn’t just about slapping on any old bar and hoping for the best. It’s about understanding the physics, the wood, and the limitations of your equipment. It’s about making informed decisions that enhance your chainsaw’s performance while ensuring your safety.
I’m going to share my experiences, insights, and practical tips to help you navigate the world of Stihl MS 310 bar lengths and modifications. This is not just a technical guide; it’s a journey into the heart of wood processing, where precision and safety go hand in hand.
Understanding the Stihl MS 310 and Bar Length Basics
The Stihl MS 310 is designed to handle a range of bar lengths, typically from 16 inches to 20 inches. The optimal bar length depends on the type of work you’re doing. Shorter bars are ideal for limbing and smaller trees, while longer bars are better suited for felling larger trees and bucking thick logs.
Why Bar Length Matters
Bar length affects several key aspects of chainsaw operation:
- Cutting Speed: A shorter bar generally allows for faster cutting speeds, as there’s less chain to drive through the wood.
- Maneuverability: Shorter bars are easier to maneuver, making them ideal for tight spaces and intricate cuts.
- Kickback: Longer bars increase the risk of kickback, a sudden and violent reaction that can cause serious injury.
- Strain on the Saw: Using a bar that’s too long for the saw’s engine can strain the engine and reduce its lifespan.
- Cutting Capacity: The bar length determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut.
Matching Bar Length to Your Needs
Choosing the right bar length is crucial for efficiency and safety. Here’s a general guideline:
- 16-inch Bar: Ideal for limbing, pruning, and cutting small trees (up to 12 inches in diameter).
- 18-inch Bar: A good all-around choice for general firewood cutting and felling medium-sized trees (up to 16 inches in diameter).
- 20-inch Bar: Best for felling larger trees (up to 18 inches in diameter) and bucking thick logs.
Remember, these are just general guidelines. Your specific needs may vary depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and your experience level.
5 Pro Tips for Safe Stihl MS 310 Chainsaw Modifications
Modifying your chainsaw can enhance its performance and versatility, but it’s essential to do it safely and correctly. Here are five pro tips to keep in mind:
1. Understand Your Saw’s Limits
Before making any modifications, it’s crucial to understand the limitations of your Stihl MS 310. This saw has a specific engine size and power output, which determines the maximum bar length it can handle efficiently. Exceeding this limit can strain the engine, reduce cutting performance, and increase the risk of damage.
- Engine Displacement: The MS 310 typically has an engine displacement of around 59cc.
- Power Output: The power output is usually around 3.2 kW (4.3 bhp).
- Recommended Bar Lengths: Sticking to the manufacturer’s recommended bar lengths (16-20 inches) is generally the safest bet.
2. Choose the Right Chain Type
The chain is just as important as the bar. Using the wrong chain type can lead to poor cutting performance, increased kickback, and even damage to the bar and saw.
- Chain Pitch: The chain pitch refers to the distance between the rivets on the chain. The MS 310 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
- Chain Gauge: The chain gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The MS 310 usually uses a .063″ gauge chain.
- Chain Types:
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, but more prone to kickback.
- Semi-Chisel: A good balance of cutting speed and safety.
- Low-Kickback: Designed to reduce the risk of kickback, ideal for inexperienced users.
I’ve personally found that a semi-chisel chain offers a good balance of performance and safety for most firewood cutting tasks.
3. Upgrade Your Sprocket
The sprocket is the toothed wheel that drives the chain around the bar. Upgrading to a different sprocket can improve cutting performance and reduce wear on the chain.
- Rim Sprocket vs. Spur Sprocket: Rim sprockets are generally preferred over spur sprockets because they’re easier to replace and offer better chain alignment.
- Sprocket Size: Changing the sprocket size can affect the chain speed and torque. A smaller sprocket will increase chain speed, while a larger sprocket will increase torque.
I once upgraded the sprocket on my MS 310 to a rim sprocket, and I noticed a significant improvement in chain alignment and reduced vibration.
4. Consider a Lightweight Bar
If you’re looking to reduce the weight of your saw and improve maneuverability, consider using a lightweight bar. These bars are made from composite materials that are lighter than steel, reducing fatigue and making the saw easier to handle.
- Weight Reduction: Lightweight bars can reduce the overall weight of the saw by up to 20%.
- Improved Maneuverability: The reduced weight makes the saw easier to maneuver, especially when limbing or working in tight spaces.
I’ve used lightweight bars on several of my saws, and I’ve found them to be particularly helpful when working on steep slopes or in dense brush.
5. Prioritize Safety Gear
No modification is worth risking your safety. Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including:
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
- Eye Protection: Prevents wood chips and sawdust from entering your eyes.
- Hearing Protection: Reduces the risk of hearing loss from prolonged chainsaw use.
- Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
I’ve seen too many accidents in the woods, and I can’t stress enough the importance of wearing proper safety gear. It’s not just a recommendation; it’s a necessity.
Wood Anatomy and Properties: Understanding Your Cutting Material
To effectively use a chainsaw, understanding the wood you’re cutting is essential. Different wood types have varying densities, grain patterns, and moisture contents, all of which affect cutting performance and safety.
Hardwood vs. Softwood
The terms “hardwood” and “softwood” refer to the type of tree from which the wood comes, not necessarily the actual hardness of the wood.
- Hardwoods: Typically deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall), such as oak, maple, and birch. Hardwoods are generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods.
- Density: Hardwoods typically have a density of 40 lbs/cubic foot or higher.
- Cutting Resistance: Hardwoods offer more resistance to cutting, requiring more power and a sharper chain.
- Softwoods: Typically coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones), such as pine, fir, and spruce. Softwoods are generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods.
- Density: Softwoods typically have a density of 30 lbs/cubic foot or lower.
- Cutting Resistance: Softwoods offer less resistance to cutting, making them easier to work with.
Wood Grain
The grain of the wood refers to the direction of the wood fibers. Cutting with the grain is generally easier than cutting against the grain.
- Straight Grain: Wood fibers run parallel to the length of the log.
- Spiral Grain: Wood fibers spiral around the log.
- Interlocked Grain: Wood fibers alternate direction from layer to layer.
I’ve found that spiral grain and interlocked grain can be particularly challenging to cut, as they tend to bind the chain and increase the risk of kickback.
Moisture Content
The moisture content of wood significantly affects its weight, density, and cutting properties.
- Green Wood: Wood that has recently been cut and has a high moisture content (typically 30% or higher). Green wood is heavier and more difficult to cut than seasoned wood.
- Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry and has a lower moisture content (typically 20% or lower). Seasoned wood is lighter and easier to cut than green wood.
I always prefer to cut seasoned wood whenever possible, as it’s easier on the saw and reduces the risk of the chain binding.
Wood Identification
Being able to identify different types of wood is crucial for understanding their properties and how they will behave when cut. Here are some tips for identifying common wood types:
- Bark: The bark of a tree can be a good indicator of its species.
- Leaves/Needles: The leaves or needles of a tree can also help with identification.
- Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of the wood can be distinctive for certain species.
- Color: The color of the wood can vary depending on the species and the age of the tree.
- Smell: Some woods have a distinctive smell that can help with identification.
Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices
Chainsaws are essential tools for logging and firewood preparation, but they’re not the only tools you’ll need. Having the right tools and keeping them in good working order is crucial for safety and efficiency.
Essential Logging Tools
- Axes: Used for felling small trees, splitting wood, and removing branches.
- Felling Wedges: Used to help direct the fall of a tree.
- Cant Hooks: Used to roll logs.
- Log Splitters: Used to split firewood.
- Measuring Tape: Used to measure logs and firewood.
- Marking Crayon: Used to mark logs for cutting.
- First Aid Kit: Essential for treating injuries in the field.
Chainsaw Maintenance
Regular chainsaw maintenance is crucial for keeping your saw running smoothly and safely. Here are some essential maintenance tasks:
- Sharpening the Chain: A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and reducing the risk of kickback.
- Cleaning the Air Filter: A clean air filter ensures that the engine gets enough air to run properly.
- Checking the Spark Plug: A faulty spark plug can cause the engine to run poorly or not start at all.
- Lubricating the Bar and Chain: Proper lubrication reduces friction and wear on the bar and chain.
- Checking the Fuel and Oil Levels: Running the saw with low fuel or oil can damage the engine.
- Inspecting the Saw for Damage: Regularly inspect the saw for any signs of damage, such as cracks, loose screws, or worn parts.
I make it a habit to sharpen my chain after every few hours of use, and I always clean the air filter before each day of work.
Tool Storage
Proper tool storage is essential for protecting your tools from damage and keeping them organized.
- Store tools in a dry place: Moisture can cause tools to rust and corrode.
- Keep tools clean: Clean tools after each use to remove dirt, sawdust, and sap.
- Store tools in a safe place: Keep tools out of reach of children and pets.
- Organize tools by type: This will make it easier to find the tools you need.
Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations
Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned firewood burns more efficiently, produces more heat, and creates less smoke than green firewood.
Why Season Firewood?
- Increased Heat Output: Seasoned firewood has a higher heat output than green firewood.
- Reduced Smoke: Seasoned firewood produces less smoke, which is better for the environment and your health.
- Easier to Ignite: Seasoned firewood is easier to ignite than green firewood.
- Reduced Creosote Buildup: Seasoned firewood reduces the buildup of creosote in your chimney, which can cause chimney fires.
Seasoning Methods
- Air Drying: The most common method of seasoning firewood. It involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally.
- Kiln Drying: A faster method of seasoning firewood that involves drying the wood in a kiln.
- Solar Drying: Using solar energy to dry the firewood.
I’ve found that air drying is the most practical and cost-effective method for most homeowners.
Air Drying Best Practices
- Split the Wood: Splitting the wood increases the surface area exposed to the air, which speeds up the drying process.
- Stack the Wood Off the Ground: This allows air to circulate around the wood and prevents it from absorbing moisture from the ground.
- Stack the Wood in a Single Row: This allows for better air circulation than stacking the wood in a pile.
- Cover the Top of the Stack: This protects the wood from rain and snow.
- Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: This will help to speed up the drying process.
- Allow Adequate Time: Firewood typically needs to season for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.
Safety Considerations
- Wear Gloves: Protect your hands from splinters and cuts.
- Lift with Your Legs: Avoid back injuries by lifting with your legs and keeping your back straight.
- Stack the Wood Securely: Prevent the stack from collapsing by stacking the wood securely.
- Watch for Insects and Snakes: Be aware of your surroundings and watch for insects and snakes.
Project Planning and Execution: Bringing It All Together
Before you start any wood processing project, it’s essential to plan ahead and execute your plan safely and efficiently.
Project Planning Steps
- Assess Your Needs: Determine how much firewood you need and what type of wood you want to cut.
- Scout Your Location: Identify the trees you want to fell and assess the terrain.
- Gather Your Tools and Equipment: Make sure you have all the necessary tools and equipment, including a chainsaw, axe, felling wedges, cant hook, measuring tape, marking crayon, and first aid kit.
- Plan Your Cutting Strategy: Determine the best way to fell the trees and buck the logs.
- Develop a Safety Plan: Identify potential hazards and develop a plan to mitigate them.
- Notify Others: Let someone know where you’ll be working and when you expect to return.
Felling Trees Safely
- Assess the Tree: Look for signs of rot, disease, or weakness.
- Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles that could interfere with the felling process.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear path away from the tree in case it falls unexpectedly.
- Make a Notch Cut: This helps to direct the fall of the tree.
- Make a Back Cut: This severs the remaining wood and allows the tree to fall.
- Use Felling Wedges: If necessary, use felling wedges to help direct the fall of the tree.
- Watch the Tree Fall: Stay clear of the tree as it falls and be prepared to move quickly if necessary.
Bucking Logs Safely
- Choose a Stable Work Area: Select a flat, stable area to buck the logs.
- Support the Log: Use logs or rocks to support the log and prevent it from rolling.
- Use a Chainsaw Horse: A chainsaw horse can make bucking logs easier and safer.
- Cut from the Top Down: This helps to prevent the chain from binding.
- Avoid Cutting into the Ground: This can damage the chain and increase the risk of kickback.
Splitting Firewood Safely
- Use a Log Splitter: A log splitter is the safest and most efficient way to split firewood.
- Wear Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
- Keep Your Hands Clear: Keep your hands clear of the splitting wedge.
- Use a Wedge and Sledgehammer: If you’re splitting wood manually, use a wedge and sledgehammer.
- Choose a Stable Base: Place the wood on a stable base, such as a stump or a splitting block.
- Swing with Control: Swing the sledgehammer with control and avoid overswinging.
Stacking Firewood Safely
- Choose a Level Area: Select a level area to stack the firewood.
- Stack the Wood Securely: Stack the wood in a way that prevents it from collapsing.
- Don’t Stack Too High: Avoid stacking the wood too high, as this can make it unstable.
- Keep the Stack Away from Buildings: Keep the stack away from buildings to reduce the risk of fire.
Comparing Materials and Tools: Making Informed Choices
Choosing the right materials and tools is crucial for success in any wood processing project. Here’s a comparison of some common materials and tools:
Hardwood vs. Softwood (Revisited)
Feature | Hardwood | Softwood |
---|---|---|
Density | Higher (40+ lbs/cubic foot) | Lower (30- lbs/cubic foot) |
Cutting Resistance | Higher | Lower |
Heat Output | Higher (per unit volume) | Lower (per unit volume) |
Smoke Production | Generally less (when properly seasoned) | Generally more (when improperly seasoned) |
Cost | Generally higher | Generally lower |
Manual vs. Hydraulic Log Splitters
Feature | Manual Log Splitter | Hydraulic Log Splitter |
---|---|---|
Power Source | Human | Electric or Gas |
Splitting Force | Lower | Higher |
Speed | Slower | Faster |
Ease of Use | More physically demanding | Less physically demanding |
Cost | Lower | Higher |
Maintenance | Lower | Higher |
Portability | More portable | Less portable |
Chainsaw Bar Types: Laminated vs. Solid
Feature | Laminated Bar | Solid Bar |
---|---|---|
Construction | Multiple layers of steel welded together | Single piece of steel |
Weight | Lighter | Heavier |
Cost | Lower | Higher |
Durability | Less durable | More durable |
Maintenance | Easier to maintain | More difficult to maintain |
Typical Use | Homeowners, occasional users | Professionals, heavy-duty applications |
Chainsaw Chain Types: Full Chisel vs. Semi-Chisel vs. Low-Kickback
Feature | Full Chisel | Semi-Chisel | Low-Kickback |
---|---|---|---|
Cutting Speed | Fastest | Moderate | Slowest |
Kickback Risk | Highest | Moderate | Lowest |
Sharpness Retention | Poorest | Moderate | Best |
User Skill | Experienced | Intermediate | Beginner |
Typical Use | Professionals cutting clean wood | General-purpose cutting, dirty wood | Homeowners, safety-conscious users |
Real-World Examples and Case Studies
To illustrate the importance of choosing the right bar length and modifications, let’s look at some real-world examples and case studies:
Case Study 1: The Overzealous Homeowner
A homeowner decided to put a 24-inch bar on his Stihl MS 310, thinking it would allow him to fell larger trees. However, the saw struggled to pull the chain through the wood, and the engine overheated frequently. The homeowner also experienced several near-kickback incidents, highlighting the dangers of using a bar that’s too long for the saw.
Lesson Learned: Always stick to the manufacturer’s recommended bar lengths.
Case Study 2: The Efficient Firewood Cutter
A firewood cutter used an 18-inch bar on his Stihl MS 310 for general firewood cutting. He also upgraded to a rim sprocket and a semi-chisel chain. This combination allowed him to cut through logs quickly and efficiently, with minimal strain on the saw.
Lesson Learned: Upgrading the sprocket and chain can significantly improve cutting performance.
Case Study 3: The Safe Logger
A logger working in a dense forest used a 16-inch bar on his Stihl MS 310 for limbing and cutting small trees. He also wore all the appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and steel-toed boots. This allowed him to work safely and efficiently, even in challenging conditions.
Lesson Learned: Prioritize safety gear at all times.
Personal Story: My First Chainsaw Kickback
I remember my first chainsaw kickback vividly. I was a young and inexperienced woodcutter, and I was using a chainsaw with a dull chain. I was cutting through a piece of hardwood when the chain suddenly bound, and the saw kicked back violently. I was lucky to escape with only a minor cut, but it was a wake-up call that taught me the importance of chainsaw safety.
Current Industry Statistics and Data Points
To further illustrate the importance of the topics discussed in this article, here are some current industry statistics and data points:
- Chainsaw Injuries: According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 30,000 injuries each year.
- Firewood Consumption: According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, approximately 25 million households in the United States use firewood as a primary or secondary heating source.
- Firewood Moisture Content: Studies have shown that seasoned firewood with a moisture content of 20% or less can produce up to 50% more heat than green firewood with a moisture content of 50% or more.
- Economic Impact of Firewood: The firewood industry has a significant economic impact, generating billions of dollars in revenue and supporting thousands of jobs.
- Fuel Value of Wood: Different species of wood have different fuel values, measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs) per cord. Hardwoods generally have higher fuel values than softwoods. For example, oak has a fuel value of approximately 24 million BTUs per cord, while pine has a fuel value of approximately 16 million BTUs per cord.
Conclusion: Key Takeaways and Next Steps
Choosing the right bar length and modifications for your Stihl MS 310 chainsaw is crucial for safety, efficiency, and performance. Remember to:
- Understand your saw’s limits and stick to the manufacturer’s recommended bar lengths.
- Choose the right chain type for your cutting needs.
- Consider upgrading your sprocket to improve chain alignment and reduce vibration.
- Use a lightweight bar to reduce weight and improve maneuverability.
- Prioritize safety gear at all times.
- Understand the properties of the wood you’re cutting.
- Maintain your tools properly.
- Season your firewood properly.
- Plan your projects carefully and execute them safely.
By following these tips, you can enhance your chainsaw’s performance, improve your efficiency, and ensure your safety in the woods. Now, go out there and put these tips into practice, and remember, safety always comes first!
As a next step, I recommend researching specific chain types and bar manufacturers that are known for quality and durability. Consider consulting with a local chainsaw dealer or experienced woodcutter for personalized recommendations based on your specific needs and experience level.