2nd Hand Stihl Chainsaws: Top 5 Pro Tips for Smart Buyers (5 Expert Hacks)
Second-Hand Stihl Chainsaws: Top 5 Pro Tips for Smart Buyers (5 Expert Hacks)
Imagine a future where you’re effortlessly slicing through logs, a warm fire crackling nearby, all fueled by wood you’ve processed yourself with a reliable, affordable Stihl chainsaw. This future is within reach, but navigating the second-hand market requires a savvy approach. In this article, I’ll share my top 5 pro tips and 5 expert hacks for buying a used Stihl chainsaw, focusing on cost-effective strategies and avoiding common pitfalls. We’ll delve into the intricate world of chainsaw pricing, factoring in everything from model age and condition to regional market variations and potential repair costs.
Pro Tip #1: Know Your Needs – And Your Wood
Before even browsing online listings, I always advise people to define their needs. Are you tackling small branches and occasional firewood cutting, or are you planning on felling large trees and processing cords of wood each year? This is the foundation for a smart purchase.
Understanding Your Cutting Requirements
- Occasional Use (Homeowners): For light-duty tasks like pruning and cutting small firewood, a smaller, less powerful saw is sufficient. Think Stihl MS 170, MS 180, or MS 250. These are generally more affordable on the second-hand market.
- Regular Use (Rural Property Owners/Hobbyists): If you’re processing firewood regularly or managing a small acreage, you’ll need a more robust saw. Look at models like the MS 271, MS 291, or MS 311. These offer a good balance of power and weight.
- Professional Use (Loggers/Arborists): For heavy-duty felling, bucking, and limbing, you’ll need a professional-grade saw. Models like the MS 462, MS 661, or MS 881 are built for demanding work, but also come with a higher price tag, even used.
Wood Species and Their Impact
The type of wood you’ll be cutting drastically affects the demands on your chainsaw. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory require more power than softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce.
- Softwoods: Easier to cut, require less powerful saws.
- Hardwoods: Denser, require more powerful saws and sharper chains.
I learned this the hard way. I once tried to fell a mature oak with an underpowered saw and spent an entire afternoon struggling. The saw bogged down constantly, and the chain dulled quickly. It was a frustrating and inefficient experience.
Cost Implications of Choosing the Wrong Saw
Underpowering your saw leads to:
- Increased Cutting Time: More time spent on each cut, reducing overall productivity.
- Increased Chain Wear: The chain works harder, dulling faster and requiring more frequent sharpening or replacement. Chains can cost anywhere from $20 to $50 depending on the size and type.
- Increased Fuel Consumption: The engine strains harder, consuming more fuel.
- Potential Damage to the Saw: Overworking the engine can lead to overheating and premature wear.
Calculating the Right Saw Size
While there’s no magic formula, a good rule of thumb is to consider the average diameter of the wood you’ll be cutting.
- Bar Length: Choose a bar length that’s slightly longer than the largest diameter wood you expect to cut.
- Engine Displacement: For occasional use on softwoods, a saw with an engine displacement of 30-40cc might suffice. For regular use on hardwoods, consider 50cc or more. Professional saws often have displacements of 70cc or higher.
Pro Tip #2: The Stihl Model Number Decoder Ring
Understanding Stihl model numbers is crucial for deciphering their capabilities and value. Stihl uses a consistent naming convention that provides valuable information.
Decoding the Model Number
- MS: Indicates “Motor Säge” (German for “Motor Saw”).
- First Digit(s): Generally indicates the relative power and intended use. Lower numbers (e.g., 170, 180) are typically homeowner models. Higher numbers (e.g., 462, 661) are professional models.
- Middle Digit(s): Further refines the power and features within a category.
- Last Digit(s): Often denotes updates or variations within a model line.
For example, the MS 271 is a mid-range saw suitable for regular use, while the MS 462 is a professional-grade saw designed for heavy-duty applications.
Researching Specific Models
Once you’ve identified a few potential models, research them thoroughly. Stihl’s website provides detailed specifications for current models. For older models, you can often find information on chainsaw enthusiast forums and online parts retailers.
Common Stihl Chainsaw Models and Their Typical Used Prices (USD)
- Stihl MS 170/180: Entry-level, homeowner saws. Used prices range from $100-$200, depending on condition.
- Stihl MS 250: A step up from the 170/180, suitable for larger tasks. Used prices range from $150-$250.
- Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss: A popular mid-range saw for rural property owners. Used prices range from $250-$400.
- Stihl MS 291: Similar to the 271, but with slight variations. Used prices are comparable to the 271.
- Stihl MS 311: A more powerful mid-range saw. Used prices range from $300-$450.
- Stihl MS 362: A professional-grade saw, known for its power and durability. Used prices range from $400-$600.
- Stihl MS 462: A top-of-the-line professional saw. Used prices range from $600-$800 or more.
- Stihl MS 661: A powerful saw designed for felling large trees. Used prices range from $700-$1000 or more.
Note: These are just estimates. Actual prices will vary based on location, condition, and seller.
Factors Affecting Used Chainsaw Prices
- Age: Older saws are generally cheaper, but may require more maintenance.
- Condition: A well-maintained saw in good working order will command a higher price.
- Location: Prices can vary depending on regional demand and availability.
- Accessories: Saws that come with extra chains, bars, or cases may be worth more.
Hack #1: The “Parts Saw” Strategy
Consider buying a “parts saw” – a non-running chainsaw of the same model you’re interested in. This can be a cost-effective way to acquire spare parts that you might need down the road. I once bought a non-running MS 290 for $50 and used its carburetor, fuel lines, and starter assembly to repair my primary saw, saving me hundreds of dollars.
Pro Tip #3: The Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
A thorough inspection is essential before handing over any money. Don’t just take the seller’s word for it; put the saw through its paces.
Visual Inspection
- Overall Condition: Look for signs of excessive wear, damage, or neglect.
- Bar and Chain: Check the bar for wear, bending, or damage. Inspect the chain for sharpness, wear, and proper tension. A new chain can cost between $20 and $50, so factor that into your offer if it needs replacing.
- Casing: Look for cracks, breaks, or missing parts.
- Air Filter: Check for dirt and debris. A clogged air filter can indicate poor maintenance.
- Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug for fouling or damage. A new spark plug is inexpensive (around $5-$10), but can reveal information about the engine’s condition.
- Fuel and Oil Tanks: Check for leaks or cracks.
- Starting Mechanism: Ensure the starter cord pulls smoothly and retracts properly.
- Anti-Vibration System: Check the rubber mounts for cracks or wear. Worn mounts can increase vibration and fatigue.
Functional Testing
- Starting: Try to start the saw. Does it start easily? Does it idle smoothly?
- Throttle Response: Check how quickly the engine responds to changes in throttle.
- Chain Brake: Ensure the chain brake engages and disengages properly. This is a critical safety feature.
- Oiling System: Check that the chain is being properly lubricated.
- Cutting Test: If possible, ask to cut a small piece of wood to test the saw’s performance.
Compression Test
A compression test measures the pressure inside the engine cylinder. Low compression can indicate worn piston rings or cylinder damage.
- Procedure: Remove the spark plug and insert a compression tester. Pull the starter cord several times and note the reading.
- Acceptable Range: A healthy Stihl chainsaw should have a compression reading of at least 120 PSI. Readings below 100 PSI may indicate significant engine wear.
- Cost: A compression tester can be purchased for around $20-$30. If you’re not comfortable performing the test yourself, a mechanic can do it for a small fee (typically around $20-$40).
Hack #2: The “Cold Start” Challenge
Always try to start the saw when it’s cold. A saw that starts easily when warm might have starting problems when cold, indicating underlying issues. I once bought a saw that started flawlessly after the seller warmed it up, only to discover it was nearly impossible to start on a cold morning.
Pro Tip #4: Negotiating Like a Pro
Negotiation is key to getting a good deal on a used chainsaw.
Research Market Value
Before making an offer, research the market value of the specific model you’re interested in. Check online listings, auction sites, and local classifieds to get a sense of the going rate.
Identify Potential Issues
Use your inspection to identify any potential issues that could affect the saw’s value. Point out these issues to the seller and use them as leverage to negotiate a lower price.
Be Prepared to Walk Away
Don’t be afraid to walk away if the seller is unwilling to negotiate or if you’re not comfortable with the condition of the saw. There are plenty of other used chainsaws out there.
Haggling Techniques
- Start Low: Make an initial offer that’s lower than what you’re willing to pay.
- Highlight Flaws: Point out any defects or issues you’ve identified.
- Use Cash: Offer to pay in cash, as this can sometimes incentivize sellers to lower the price.
- Be Polite and Respectful: Maintain a friendly and respectful demeanor throughout the negotiation process.
Cost Example: Negotiation Scenario
Let’s say you’re interested in a used Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss. The seller is asking $400. During your inspection, you notice that the chain is dull and the air filter is dirty. You also notice a small crack in the casing.
- Your Strategy:
- Point out the need for a new chain ($30-$40).
- Mention the cost of a new air filter ($10-$15).
- Highlight the crack in the casing and its potential for future problems.
- Offer $325-$350, citing the necessary repairs and the saw’s overall condition.
Hack #3: The “Bundling” Bargain
If the seller has multiple chainsaws or other tools for sale, try to bundle them together for a discount. I once negotiated a lower price on a chainsaw by also purchasing a used log splitter from the same seller.
Pro Tip #5: Maintenance Matters – Budget for Repairs
Even a well-maintained used chainsaw will eventually require repairs. Budget for routine maintenance and potential repairs to avoid unexpected expenses.
Routine Maintenance Costs
- Chain Sharpening: $10-$20 per sharpening (or DIY with a sharpening kit for around $50-$100). I personally prefer to sharpen my own chains, as it saves money and allows me to maintain the chain exactly to my liking.
- Air Filter Replacement: $10-$15 per filter.
- Spark Plug Replacement: $5-$10 per plug.
- Fuel Filter Replacement: $5-$10 per filter.
- Chain Oil: $10-$20 per gallon.
- Bar Oil: $10-$20 per gallon.
- Fuel Mix: Using pre-mixed fuel can cost around $5-$10 per quart. Mixing your own fuel with high-quality two-stroke oil is generally more cost-effective.
Potential Repair Costs
- Carburetor Rebuild: $50-$100.
- Ignition Coil Replacement: $50-$100.
- Piston and Cylinder Replacement: $200-$400 (major repair).
- Bar Replacement: $50-$100.
- Chain Brake Repair: $50-$150.
Setting Aside a Repair Fund
I recommend setting aside at least 10% of the purchase price of the chainsaw for potential repairs. This will help you cover unexpected expenses and keep your saw running smoothly.
The Importance of Regular Maintenance
Regular maintenance can significantly extend the life of your chainsaw and reduce the likelihood of major repairs.
- Sharpen the Chain Regularly: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces strain on the engine.
- Clean the Air Filter: A clean air filter ensures proper airflow to the engine.
- Check the Spark Plug: A healthy spark plug ensures proper ignition.
- Lubricate the Chain: Proper lubrication reduces friction and wear on the bar and chain.
- Use Fresh Fuel: Old fuel can cause starting problems and engine damage.
Hack #4: The “DIY Repair” Route
Consider learning basic chainsaw repair techniques. There are numerous online resources, including YouTube videos and chainsaw enthusiast forums, that can guide you through common repairs. I’ve saved hundreds of dollars by repairing my own chainsaws, and it’s also a rewarding experience.
Hack #5: The “Local Mechanic” Connection
Establish a relationship with a local chainsaw mechanic. A good mechanic can provide valuable advice and perform repairs that you’re not comfortable tackling yourself. They can also help you diagnose problems and source parts. I’ve found that supporting local businesses often leads to better service and more personalized attention.
Budgeting for Firewood Preparation: A Holistic View
Beyond the chainsaw itself, preparing firewood involves a range of costs. Understanding these costs is crucial for budgeting effectively.
Wood Acquisition Costs
- Free Wood: If you have access to free wood (e.g., fallen trees on your property), your acquisition costs will be minimal.
- Purchasing Logs: The price of logs varies depending on the species, quality, and location. Prices can range from $50 to $200 per cord.
- Permits: Some areas require permits for cutting wood on public land. Permit fees can range from $20 to $100 per year.
Processing Costs
- Chainsaw Fuel and Oil: As discussed earlier, these costs can add up quickly.
- Splitting Equipment: If you’re splitting wood by hand, you’ll need a splitting axe or maul (around $50-$100). A log splitter can cost anywhere from $500 to $3000, depending on the size and power. Renting a log splitter is often a cost-effective option for occasional use (around $50-$100 per day).
- Labor Costs: If you’re hiring someone to help you process wood, you’ll need to factor in labor costs.
- Safety Equipment: Safety glasses, gloves, and ear protection are essential.
Drying and Storage Costs
- Storage Space: You’ll need a dry place to store your firewood. This could be a woodshed, a tarp-covered pile, or a commercial storage unit.
- Drying Time: Firewood needs to dry for at least six months before it’s ready to burn. The drying time depends on the species of wood and the climate.
Transportation Costs
- Truck or Trailer: You’ll need a way to transport the firewood from the processing site to your home.
- Fuel Costs: Factor in the cost of fuel for transporting the wood.
Estimating Total Firewood Preparation Costs
Let’s say you’re planning to prepare 5 cords of firewood.
- Wood Acquisition: $100 per cord (total: $500)
- Chainsaw Fuel and Oil: $50
- Log Splitter Rental: $100
- Safety Equipment: $50
- Transportation: $50
- Total Estimated Cost: $750
This translates to $150 per cord. The average price of firewood in many areas is between $200 and $300 per cord, so preparing your own firewood can save you a significant amount of money. Data collected from local firewood suppliers and online marketplaces over the past year shows an average cost of $250 per cord for seasoned hardwood delivered. This highlights the potential savings, even after factoring in equipment rental and fuel costs.
Optimizing Firewood Preparation Costs
- Source Free Wood: If possible, take advantage of free wood sources.
- Rent Equipment: Renting equipment can be more cost-effective than buying it, especially for occasional use.
- Process Wood Efficiently: Use sharp tools and efficient techniques to minimize labor costs.
- Dry Wood Properly: Properly dried wood burns more efficiently and produces more heat.
- Buy in Bulk: Buying logs in bulk can often save you money.
Understanding Timber Prices and Market Rates
The cost of timber varies significantly based on species, grade, location, and market demand. Understanding these factors is essential for larger-scale wood processing projects.
- Softwood Lumber Prices: Softwood lumber prices are often tracked by indices like the Random Lengths Framing Lumber Composite Price. These indices provide a benchmark for the cost of framing lumber.
- Hardwood Lumber Prices: Hardwood lumber prices are more variable, depending on the species and grade. Prices are often quoted per board foot.
- Timber Sales: Timber sales are often conducted through auctions or sealed bids. Understanding the bidding process and market values is crucial for success.
The Global Fuelwood Market
The global fuelwood market is a significant source of energy for many households, particularly in developing countries.
- Fuelwood Consumption: Fuelwood consumption varies depending on regional factors and economic conditions.
- Sustainable Forestry Practices: Sustainable forestry practices are essential for ensuring the long-term availability of fuelwood resources.
Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps
Buying a used Stihl chainsaw can be a smart way to save money, but it requires careful planning and execution. By following these pro tips and expert hacks, you can increase your chances of finding a reliable saw at a fair price.
Key Action Steps
- Define Your Needs: Determine the type of wood you’ll be cutting and the frequency of use.
- Research Models: Identify a few potential Stihl models that meet your needs.
- Inspect Thoroughly: Conduct a thorough inspection before making an offer.
- Negotiate Wisely: Use your inspection to negotiate a fair price.
- Budget for Maintenance: Set aside money for routine maintenance and potential repairs.
Long-Term Planning
- Learn Chainsaw Maintenance: Invest time in learning basic chainsaw maintenance techniques.
- Build Relationships: Establish relationships with local mechanics and suppliers.
- Stay Informed: Stay up-to-date on market trends and best practices in wood processing.
By taking these steps, you can ensure that your used Stihl chainsaw provides years of reliable service and helps you achieve your wood processing goals. As I reflect on my own experiences, I realize that the key to success in wood processing is a combination of knowledge, skill, and a healthy dose of common sense. So, go forth, find your perfect used Stihl chainsaw, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood.