290/20 Bar & Chain Upgrade (Expert Chainsaw Tuning Tips)
Okay, let’s dive into the world of chainsaws, wood processing, and firewood preparation with a focus on upgrading your 290/20 bar and chain. We’ll cover everything from the basics to expert tuning tips, ensuring you get the most out of your equipment and your firewood projects.
As someone who’s spent countless hours in the woods, I know firsthand the toll that wear and tear can take on your equipment. Over time, even the best chainsaw needs some love and attention. Upgrading your bar and chain is one of the most impactful improvements you can make, and it’s what we’ll be focusing on today.
290/20 Bar & Chain Upgrade (Expert Chainsaw Tuning Tips)
The wood processing and firewood industry is a significant one globally. According to recent statistics, the global firewood market is expected to reach USD 11.3 billion by 2027, driven by factors like rising energy costs and a renewed interest in sustainable heating solutions. Simultaneously, the logging industry faces increasing pressure to adopt sustainable practices and improve efficiency. This guide aims to address both needs, providing practical advice for hobbyists and professionals alike.
Why Upgrade Your Bar and Chain?
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s talk about why you should even consider upgrading your bar and chain. It’s not just about getting a “shiny new toy” – it’s about improving performance, safety, and the overall lifespan of your chainsaw.
- Improved Cutting Efficiency: A sharper, better-designed chain cuts through wood faster and cleaner, reducing the strain on your chainsaw engine and saving you time and effort.
- Enhanced Safety: A worn or damaged chain is a safety hazard. It can kick back more easily, break during operation, and generally make the job more dangerous.
- Increased Chainsaw Longevity: A well-maintained bar and chain reduces the stress on your chainsaw’s engine and other components, prolonging its life.
- Better Handling: A properly matched bar and chain can improve the balance and handling of your chainsaw, making it easier to control and maneuver.
Understanding the Basics: Bar and Chain Terminology
Let’s get some key terms out of the way so we’re all on the same page.
- Bar: The metal guide that supports and directs the chain. Bar length is measured from the tip to where it enters the chainsaw body.
- Chain: The loop of interconnected cutting teeth that does the actual cutting.
- Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
- Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
- Drive Links: The small links on the chain that fit into the bar groove and are driven by the chainsaw’s sprocket.
- Cutter Teeth: The sharp teeth on the chain that do the actual cutting.
- Rakers (Depth Gauges): The small projections in front of each cutter tooth that control the depth of the cut.
Choosing the Right Bar and Chain for Your 290
Your Stihl MS 290 is a versatile and reliable chainsaw, but it’s important to choose a bar and chain that’s a good match for its power and intended use. Here’s a breakdown of factors to consider:
Bar Length
The “20” in “290/20” likely refers to a 20-inch bar, which is a common and versatile size for this saw. However, depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and the size of the trees you’re felling, you might consider a different length.
- Shorter Bar (16-18 inches): Offers better maneuverability and is ideal for limbing and smaller trees. It also reduces the risk of kickback.
- Longer Bar (20-25 inches): Provides more reach and is better for felling larger trees. However, it requires more power and skill to control.
My Experience: I once tried using a 24-inch bar on my MS 290 to take down a massive oak tree. While it did the job, the saw was definitely working harder than it should have, and I felt like I was pushing its limits. I ended up switching to a smaller saw with a longer bar for similar tasks in the future.
Chain Type
There are several different types of chainsaw chains, each designed for specific applications.
- Full Chisel: These chains have aggressive, square-cornered teeth that cut very quickly and efficiently. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded teeth that are more forgiving and less prone to dulling in dirty or frozen wood. They are a good all-around choice for most users.
- Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have smaller teeth and a shallower cutting angle, making them safer and easier to control. They are a good choice for beginners and homeowners.
- Ripping Chain: Designed specifically for cutting wood along the grain (ripping). It has a different tooth geometry than cross-cutting chains.
Data Point: Studies show that full chisel chains can cut up to 20% faster than semi-chisel chains in clean wood. However, they also dull up to 50% faster in dirty conditions.
Pitch and Gauge
It’s crucial to choose a chain with the correct pitch and gauge for your chainsaw and bar. The MS 290 typically uses a .325″ pitch and .063″ gauge chain, but it’s always a good idea to double-check your owner’s manual or the markings on your existing bar and chain.
Technical Requirement: Using the wrong pitch or gauge chain can damage your chainsaw and bar.
Step-by-Step Guide to Upgrading Your Bar and Chain
Now that you’ve chosen the right bar and chain for your needs, let’s get down to the installation process.
Safety First: Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when working with chainsaws. Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting.
- Remove the Old Bar and Chain:
- Loosen the bar nuts on the side of the chainsaw that hold the bar cover in place.
- Remove the bar cover.
- Carefully remove the old chain from the bar groove.
- Slide the bar off the mounting studs.
- Clean the Chainsaw:
- Use a brush or compressed air to remove any sawdust, dirt, or debris from the chainsaw body, bar mounting area, and chain sprocket.
- Inspect the Sprocket:
- Check the sprocket for wear or damage. If the sprocket teeth are worn or chipped, replace the sprocket before installing the new chain.
- Install the New Bar:
- Slide the new bar onto the mounting studs, making sure the adjusting pin aligns with the tensioning hole in the bar.
- Install the New Chain:
- Place the chain loop around the bar, making sure the cutter teeth are facing in the correct direction (they should point towards the front of the bar).
- Engage the drive links of the chain into the bar groove.
- Position the chain so that it engages with the sprocket.
- Adjust the Chain Tension:
- Replace the bar cover and tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
- Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
- Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Actionable Tip: When adjusting chain tension, lift the tip of the bar upwards. This ensures that the chain is properly seated in the bar groove.
Expert Tuning Tips for Optimal Performance
Once you’ve installed your new bar and chain, it’s time to fine-tune your chainsaw for optimal performance.
Chain Sharpening
A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and safety. Learn how to sharpen your chain using a file or a chain grinder.
- File Sharpening: Use a round file of the correct size for your chain’s pitch. File each cutter tooth at the correct angle, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Chain Grinder: A chain grinder is a faster and more precise way to sharpen chains. However, it requires more skill and practice to use properly.
My Story: I remember when I first started using a chainsaw, I thought I could get away with never sharpening the chain. I quickly learned that a dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. After a few close calls with kickback, I invested in a good file and learned how to sharpen my chains properly.
Depth Gauge Adjustment (Raker Filing)
The depth gauges (rakers) control the depth of the cut. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will cut slowly. If they are too low, the chain will grab and kick back.
- Use a depth gauge tool and a flat file to adjust the depth gauges to the correct height. Consult your owner’s manual for the recommended depth gauge setting.
Technical Specification: The recommended depth gauge setting for most chains is .025″ to .030″ below the cutter teeth.
Carburetor Adjustment
The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture in your chainsaw’s engine. If the carburetor is not properly adjusted, the engine may run poorly or not at all.
- Idle Speed Adjustment: Adjust the idle speed screw so that the engine idles smoothly without stalling or the chain turning.
- High-Speed Adjustment: Adjust the high-speed screw for maximum power and performance. Be careful not to run the engine too lean, as this can damage the engine.
Caution: Carburetor adjustment can be tricky. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, take your chainsaw to a qualified service technician.
Chain Oiling
Proper chain lubrication is essential for preventing wear and tear on the bar and chain.
- Check the Oil Level: Make sure the oil reservoir is full before each use.
- Adjust the Oil Flow: Adjust the oil flow rate to match the type of wood you’re cutting. Softer woods require less oil than harder woods.
- Use the Right Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
Best Practice: I always use a biodegradable bar and chain oil to minimize my environmental impact.
Wood Species and Their Properties for Firewood
The type of wood you burn significantly affects the heat output, burn time, and overall efficiency of your firewood.
- Hardwoods: Dense woods like oak, maple, and ash burn hotter and longer than softwoods.
- Softwoods: Less dense woods like pine, fir, and spruce burn faster and produce more smoke.
Data Point: Oak firewood has a BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating of approximately 28 million BTUs per cord, while pine firewood has a BTU rating of approximately 20 million BTUs per cord.
- Seasoning Wood: Proper seasoning (drying) is crucial for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which reduces heat output and produces more smoke.
Definition: Green wood is freshly cut wood that contains a high amount of moisture. Seasoned wood has been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less.
Firewood Preparation: From Felling to Stacking
Here’s a detailed breakdown of the steps involved in preparing firewood.
- Felling Trees Safely:
- Assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and potential hazards.
- Clear the area around the tree.
- Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
- Make a back cut slightly above the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
- Use wedges if necessary to help direct the fall.
Troubleshooting: If the tree starts to fall in the wrong direction, use a felling lever or wedge to correct its course.
- De-limbing Procedures:
- Start at the base of the tree and work your way up, removing the branches with your chainsaw.
- Be careful to avoid kickback.
- Use a pole saw for high branches.
Safety Tip: Always stand on the uphill side of the tree when de-limbing to avoid being hit by rolling logs.
- Bucking Logs into Firewood Lengths:
- Measure and mark the logs into the desired firewood lengths (typically 16-18 inches).
- Use your chainsaw to cut the logs into firewood lengths.
- Use a sawbuck to support the logs while cutting.
Resource Management: Minimize waste by cutting logs into lengths that maximize the usable firewood.
- Splitting Logs:
- Use a splitting axe or a log splitter to split the logs into smaller pieces.
- Split logs along their natural grain.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
Original Research: I conducted a small experiment comparing the efficiency of splitting logs with an axe versus a hydraulic log splitter. I found that the log splitter was significantly faster and less physically demanding, especially for larger, tougher logs.
- Stacking Firewood for Optimal Drying:
- Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark side up.
- Leave space between the rows for air circulation.
- Elevate the firewood off the ground using pallets or timbers.
- Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or roof to protect it from rain and snow.
Case Study: A local firewood producer I know uses a system of stacking firewood in long rows with a slight slope to promote drainage and air circulation. He claims that this method reduces drying time by up to 25%.
Costs, Budgeting, and Resource Management
Preparing firewood can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to factor in all the costs involved.
- Chainsaw and Equipment: Chainsaw, bar and chain, safety gear, splitting axe or log splitter, sawbuck, etc.
- Fuel and Oil: Gasoline, bar and chain oil.
- Maintenance and Repairs: Chain sharpening, chainsaw repairs.
- Time and Labor: Your time spent felling, de-limbing, bucking, splitting, and stacking firewood.
Budgeting Considerations: Create a budget that includes all of the above costs. Compare the cost of preparing your own firewood to the cost of buying it from a supplier.
Resource Management Tips:
- Source wood sustainably: Obtain wood from responsibly managed forests or from trees that have fallen naturally.
- Use efficient equipment: Invest in high-quality tools that will save you time and effort.
- Minimize waste: Cut logs into lengths that maximize the usable firewood.
- Season wood properly: Properly seasoned wood burns more efficiently, saving you money on fuel.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
- Dull Chain: A dull chain is inefficient and dangerous. Sharpen your chain regularly.
- Improper Chain Tension: Too loose or too tight can damage the bar and chain.
- Over-Oiling or Under-Oiling: Can cause premature wear.
- Cutting Dirty Wood: Avoid cutting wood that is covered in dirt or sand, as this will quickly dull the chain.
- Neglecting Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection.
- Trying to Fell Trees Beyond Your Skill Level: If you’re not comfortable felling trees, hire a professional.
- Stacking Firewood Improperly: Can lead to slow drying and rot.
Next Steps and Additional Resources
Now that you’ve upgraded your bar and chain and learned the basics of firewood preparation, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice.
- Practice your chainsaw skills: Practice felling, de-limbing, bucking, and splitting logs in a safe and controlled environment.
- Join a local logging or firewood association: Network with other enthusiasts and learn from their experiences.
- Attend a chainsaw safety course: Improve your skills and knowledge of safe chainsaw operation.
- Research local suppliers of logging tools and drying equipment: Support local businesses and get the best deals on equipment.
Supplier Recommendations:
- Baileys: Offers a wide selection of logging tools, chainsaws, and firewood processing equipment.
- Northern Tool + Equipment: Provides a variety of tools and equipment for both professionals and homeowners.
- Local Hardware Stores: Often carry basic chainsaw supplies and safety gear.
Final Thoughts
Upgrading your 290/20 bar and chain is a worthwhile investment that can improve the performance, safety, and longevity of your chainsaw. By following the tips and guidelines in this guide, you can confidently tackle your wood processing and firewood preparation projects with greater efficiency and safety. Remember to always prioritize safety, use the right tools for the job, and respect the environment. Happy cutting!
