28 Chainsaw Bar and Chain: Matching Drive Links Explained (Pro Tips)

I still remember the day I ruined my first chainsaw chain. I was a greenhorn, eager to tackle a mountain of firewood, armed with a brand-new chainsaw and a whole lot of enthusiasm. I’d sharpened the chain (badly, as it turned out), filled the bar oil, and confidently started cutting. Within minutes, the chain was dull, smoking, and stretched beyond belief. I’d completely mismatched the chain to the bar, and hadn’t understood the crucial relationship between the bar length and the number of drive links. It was a frustrating and expensive lesson learned the hard way. Since then, I’ve dedicated myself to understanding the nuances of chainsaw maintenance, wood processing, and firewood preparation.

This guide is my attempt to save you from making the same mistakes I did. We’ll delve into the specifics of matching a 28-inch chainsaw bar and chain, focusing on drive links, pitch, gauge, and everything else you need to know to ensure a smooth, safe, and efficient cutting experience. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior, understanding these principles will extend the life of your chainsaw and improve your overall performance.

Understanding the Importance of Matching Your Chainsaw Bar and Chain

The chainsaw bar and chain work together as a single unit. If they’re not perfectly matched, you’re setting yourself up for a host of problems, including:

• Reduced Cutting Efficiency: A mismatched chain won’t fit properly in the bar groove, leading to excessive friction and a sluggish cutting action.
• Increased Wear and Tear: The bar and chain will wear down prematurely, requiring more frequent replacements.
• Potential for Damage: A chain that’s too loose can derail, causing damage to the chainsaw and potentially injuring the operator. A chain that’s too tight can cause the bar to overheat and warp.
• Safety Hazards: A poorly matched chain is more likely to break or kickback, posing a serious risk to the user.

Think of it like driving a car with the wrong size tires. It might technically “work,” but the performance will be terrible, and you’ll likely damage the vehicle in the process. The same principle applies to chainsaws.

Key Terms and Concepts

Before we dive into the specifics of matching a 28-inch bar and chain, let’s define some essential terms:

• Bar Length: The usable cutting length of the chainsaw bar, measured from the tip of the bar to where it mounts on the chainsaw body. In our case, we’re focusing on a 28-inch bar.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches include .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links, which are the small metal pieces that fit into the groove of the chainsaw bar. Common gauges include .050″, .058″, and .063″.
• Drive Links: The number of these links determines the correct chain length for a given bar.
• Rivet: The small metal pin that holds the chain segments together.
• Cutter: The sharp teeth on the chain that do the actual cutting.
• Tie Straps: The metal links that connect the cutters and drive links.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s typically heavier and more difficult to split than seasoned wood.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.

Step-by-Step Guide to Matching a 28-Inch Chainsaw Bar and Chain

Now, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of matching a 28-inch chainsaw bar and chain. This process involves several steps, each of which is crucial for ensuring a proper fit and optimal performance.

1. Determine the Required Number of Drive Links

This is the most critical step. The number of drive links directly corresponds to the length of the chain needed to fit your specific 28-inch bar. You can’t simply assume that all 28-inch bars require the same number of drive links. Variations exist between manufacturers and even different models from the same manufacturer.

My Experience: I once tried to “eyeball” the correct number of drive links, thinking I could get away with a slightly shorter chain. Big mistake! The chain was too tight, causing excessive friction and eventually damaging the bar. Always double-check and triple-check the drive link count.

2. Verify the Chain Pitch

The chain pitch must match the sprocket on your chainsaw and the groove width on your bar. Using the wrong pitch will prevent the chain from seating properly and can damage your chainsaw.

• Check Your Chainsaw’s Manual: The manual will specify the correct chain pitch for your chainsaw model.
• Check the Sprocket: The pitch is sometimes stamped on the sprocket itself.
• Check the Bar: Some bars have the pitch stamped on them.
• Measure the Pitch: If you’re unsure, you can measure the pitch yourself. Measure the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain and divide by two. The result will be the chain pitch.

Common Chain Pitches:

• .325″ Pitch: A popular choice for smaller to medium-sized chainsaws used for general cutting and firewood preparation.
• 3/8″ Pitch: A common pitch for larger chainsaws used for felling trees and bucking logs.
• .404″ Pitch: Typically found on very large chainsaws used for heavy-duty logging applications.

Example: If your chainsaw uses a 3/8″ pitch chain, you must purchase a replacement chain with the same 3/8″ pitch. Using a .325″ or .404″ pitch chain will not work.

My Experience: I inherited an old Husqvarna chainsaw from my grandfather. It had a 3/8″ pitch sprocket, but someone had tried to use a .325″ pitch chain on it. The chain wouldn’t seat properly, and the chainsaw vibrated violently. I quickly realized the mistake and replaced the chain with the correct pitch.

3. Confirm the Chain Gauge

The chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links. It must match the width of the groove on your chainsaw bar. Using the wrong gauge will result in either a chain that’s too loose (and likely to derail) or a chain that’s too tight (and will bind in the groove).

• Check Your Chainsaw’s Manual: The manual will specify the correct chain gauge for your chainsaw model.
• Check the Bar: The gauge is often stamped on the bar near the mounting area.
• Use a Gauge Tool: A gauge tool is a small, inexpensive tool that allows you to measure the gauge of your chain.

Common Chain Gauges:

• .050″ Gauge: A common gauge for smaller to medium-sized chainsaws.
• .058″ Gauge: A popular gauge for larger chainsaws.
• .063″ Gauge: Typically found on older or larger chainsaws.

Example: If your chainsaw bar has a groove width of .050″, you must use a chain with a .050″ gauge. Using a .058″ or .063″ gauge chain will not work properly.

My Experience: I once purchased a replacement chain online without paying close attention to the gauge. The chain arrived, and I eagerly installed it on my chainsaw. However, the chain was too loose in the bar groove. It was clear that I had ordered a chain with the wrong gauge. I had to return the chain and order the correct one.

4. Select the Appropriate Chain Type

Chainsaw chains come in various types, each designed for specific cutting applications. Choosing the right chain type can significantly improve your cutting performance and extend the life of your chain.

• Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and fast-cutting. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users. Full chisel chains are more prone to kickback and require more frequent sharpening.
• Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are more forgiving and less prone to kickback than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general cutting and dirty wood.
• Low-Kickback Chains: These chains have special features designed to reduce the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for inexperienced users or those working in situations where kickback is a concern.
• Ripping Chains: These chains are designed specifically for ripping wood along the grain. They have a different cutter geometry than cross-cutting chains.

Example: If you’re primarily cutting clean, seasoned firewood, a full chisel chain might be a good choice. However, if you’re cutting dirty wood or are concerned about kickback, a semi-chisel or low-kickback chain might be a better option. If you are milling lumber, a ripping chain is essential.

My Experience: I initially used a full chisel chain for everything, thinking it would be the fastest and most efficient option. However, I quickly realized that it wasn’t the best choice for cutting dirty firewood. The chain would dull quickly, and I experienced more kickback. I switched to a semi-chisel chain, and the performance improved significantly.

5. Inspect the Bar for Wear and Damage

Before installing a new chain, it’s essential to inspect the chainsaw bar for wear and damage. A worn or damaged bar can negatively impact the performance of your chain and even pose a safety hazard.

• Check the Bar Rails: The bar rails are the edges of the bar that the chain rides on. They should be smooth and even. If they are worn or uneven, the chain will not run smoothly.
• Check the Bar Groove: The bar groove should be clean and free of debris. If the groove is clogged, the chain will not seat properly.
• Check the Bar Tip: The bar tip should be in good condition. If it is damaged, it can cause the chain to derail.
• Check for Burrs: Remove any burrs or sharp edges with a file.

Addressing Common Bar Problems:

• Worn Bar Rails: If the bar rails are worn, you can often dress them with a bar rail dressing tool. This tool helps to restore the rails to their original shape.
• Clogged Bar Groove: Clean the bar groove with a wire brush or a screwdriver. You can also use compressed air to blow out any debris.
• Damaged Bar Tip: If the bar tip is severely damaged, you may need to replace the entire bar.

My Experience: I once installed a new chain on a bar that had severely worn rails. The chain kept derailing, and the chainsaw vibrated excessively. I finally realized that the bar was the problem. I replaced the bar, and the chainsaw ran smoothly again.

6. Install the Chain Correctly

Installing the chain correctly is crucial for ensuring proper performance and safety.

• Ensure the Chain is Facing the Right Direction: The cutters on the chain should point in the direction of rotation. There’s usually an arrow on the chain that indicates the correct direction.
• Loosen the Bar Nuts: Loosen the bar nuts on the chainsaw to allow the bar to move freely.
• Place the Chain on the Sprocket: Place the chain on the sprocket behind the bar.
• Guide the Chain Around the Bar: Guide the chain around the bar, making sure that the drive links are seated in the bar groove.
• Position the Bar: Position the bar so that the adjusting pin (if applicable) is engaged in the bar’s adjustment hole.
• Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
• Adjust the Chain Tension: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
• Tighten the Bar Nuts Securely: Once the chain tension is properly adjusted, tighten the bar nuts securely.

Chain Tensioning Tips:

• Check the Chain Tension Frequently: The chain tension will change as the chain heats up during use. Check the tension frequently and adjust as needed.
• Avoid Over-Tightening the Chain: Over-tightening the chain can cause excessive wear on the bar and chain.
• Allow the Chain to Cool Before Adjusting: If the chain is hot, allow it to cool before adjusting the tension.

My Experience: I once installed a chain backwards. I didn’t realize my mistake until I tried to cut a piece of wood. The chainsaw wouldn’t cut, and the chain was just spinning around the bar. I quickly realized my error and corrected the chain direction.

7. Break in the New Chain

A new chainsaw chain needs to be broken in to ensure optimal performance and longevity.

• Run the Chainsaw at Idle Speed: Run the chainsaw at idle speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to lubricate properly.
• Make a Few Light Cuts: Make a few light cuts in soft wood to help seat the chain.
• Check the Chain Tension: Check the chain tension after making a few cuts and adjust as needed.
• Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain after the break-in period. This will remove any burrs or imperfections that may have developed during the break-in process.

Why Break-In Is Important:

• Allows Proper Lubrication: The break-in period allows the chain to become fully lubricated, reducing friction and wear.
• Seats the Chain: The break-in period allows the chain to seat properly in the bar groove, ensuring smooth and efficient cutting.
• Identifies Potential Problems: The break-in period can help to identify any potential problems with the chain or bar.

My Experience: I used to skip the break-in process, thinking it was unnecessary. However, I noticed that my chains would dull more quickly and wear out prematurely. I started breaking in my chains, and the performance and longevity improved significantly.

Additional Pro Tips for Chainsaw Bar and Chain Maintenance

Beyond the basic matching and installation process, here are some additional pro tips that will help you get the most out of your chainsaw bar and chain:

• Use High-Quality Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar oil specifically designed for chainsaws. This will help to lubricate the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear. I personally prefer using a bar oil with a tackifier additive, which helps the oil cling to the chain better.
• Keep the Chain Sharp: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Sharpen the chain regularly using a chainsaw file or a chain grinder. I recommend sharpening the chain every time you refuel the chainsaw.
• Clean the Chainsaw Regularly: Clean the chainsaw regularly to remove sawdust and debris. This will help to prevent overheating and damage to the chainsaw components. I use compressed air to blow out sawdust and debris from the chainsaw after each use.
• Store the Chainsaw Properly: Store the chainsaw in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion. I also recommend removing the chain and bar and storing them separately.
• Rotate Your Chains: If you use your chainsaw frequently, consider having multiple chains. Rotate the chains regularly to distribute wear and tear.
• Adjust Carburetor Settings Appropriately: Ensure your carburetor settings are correct for your operating altitude and temperature. A lean running engine will overheat and damage the chain and bar.
• Consider Using a Chain Sharpener: A powered chain sharpener can make sharpening your chain quicker and more consistent, especially if you’re not experienced with using a file.
• Proper Felling Techniques: Using proper felling techniques can help you avoid pinching the bar and chain, which can damage both.
• Avoid Cutting in the Dirt: Cutting in the dirt will quickly dull your chain. Try to avoid contact with the ground when cutting.
• Use the Right Chainsaw for the Job: Using a chainsaw that’s too small for the job can put unnecessary strain on the chain and bar.

Case Study: Reviving an Old Chainsaw with a New Bar and Chain

I was recently tasked with reviving an old Stihl 031 AV chainsaw that had been sitting in a shed for years. The chainsaw was in rough shape, with a rusty bar and a dull, stretched chain. The owner wanted to get it running again for occasional firewood cutting.

Here’s how I approached the project:

1. Assessment: I thoroughly inspected the chainsaw, paying close attention to the bar, chain, sprocket, and engine. The bar was heavily rusted and the chain was beyond sharpening. The sprocket showed signs of wear.
2. Parts Replacement: I decided to replace the bar, chain, and sprocket. I consulted the Stihl parts catalog and ordered a new 28-inch bar, a matching chain with the correct pitch, gauge, and drive link count, and a new sprocket.
3. Cleaning and Lubrication: I cleaned the chainsaw thoroughly, removing all rust and debris. I lubricated all moving parts with fresh chainsaw oil.
4. Installation: I installed the new bar, chain, and sprocket, following the steps outlined earlier in this guide. I made sure to tension the chain properly.
5. Testing and Adjustment: I started the chainsaw and tested its performance. The chainsaw ran smoothly and cut cleanly. I adjusted the carburetor settings to ensure optimal performance.

Results:

The old Stihl 031 AV chainsaw was successfully revived with a new bar, chain, and sprocket. The chainsaw now runs smoothly and cuts efficiently, providing the owner with a reliable tool for firewood cutting. This project demonstrated the importance of using the correct bar and chain for optimal performance and safety.

Chainsaw Safety: A Paramount Consideration

No discussion about chainsaws is complete without emphasizing safety. Chainsaws are powerful tools that can cause serious injury if not used properly.

• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
• Read the Owner’s Manual: Read and understand the owner’s manual before using the chainsaw.
• Inspect the Chainsaw Before Each Use: Inspect the chainsaw before each use to ensure that it is in good working condition.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting in hazardous conditions.
• Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Never cut above shoulder height.
• Never Operate a Chainsaw When Fatigued or Under the Influence: Never operate a chainsaw when fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
• Keep a Safe Distance from Others: Keep a safe distance from others when operating a chainsaw.
• Attend Chainsaw Safety Courses: Consider attending chainsaw safety courses offered by professional organizations.

Kickback: A Major Hazard

Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw bar that can cause serious injury. Kickback occurs when the upper quadrant of the bar tip contacts a solid object or is pinched.

• Avoid Cutting with the Upper Quadrant of the Bar Tip: Avoid cutting with the upper quadrant of the bar tip.
• Use a Low-Kickback Chain: Use a low-kickback chain, especially if you are inexperienced.
• Maintain a Firm Grip on the Chainsaw: Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
• Stand to the Side of the Cut: Stand to the side of the cut to avoid being hit by the chainsaw if kickback occurs.

Strategic Advantages of Proper Chainsaw Maintenance

Investing time and effort in proper chainsaw maintenance offers several strategic advantages:

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine your specific cutting needs and choose a chainsaw and bar that are appropriate for the job.
2. Consult Your Owner’s Manual: Consult your owner’s manual to determine the correct chain specifications for your chainsaw and bar.
3. Purchase the Correct Chain: Purchase a chain that matches the pitch, gauge, and drive link count of your chainsaw bar.
4. Inspect the Bar and Chain: Inspect the bar and chain for wear and damage before each use.
5. Maintain Your Chainsaw Regularly: Maintain your chainsaw regularly, following the tips outlined in this guide.
6. Practice Safe Cutting Techniques: Practice safe cutting techniques to avoid accidents and injuries.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your chainsaw is always running at its best, providing you with years of reliable service. Remember, a little preventative maintenance goes a long way in extending the life of your equipment and ensuring your safety while working with wood.

My journey from a clueless beginner to a confident chainsaw user wasn’t overnight. It involved a lot of trial and error, reading, and learning from experienced loggers. But the knowledge and skills I’ve gained have been invaluable, allowing me to tackle any wood processing or firewood preparation project with confidence and efficiency. I hope this guide empowers you to do the same. Now, go out there and make some sawdust!

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