266xp Husqvarna Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Secrets)

Innovation and the 266XP: A Chainsaw Legacy

As someone who has spent a significant portion of my life immersed in the world of woodcutting, I’ve witnessed firsthand the evolution of chainsaws. From cumbersome, back-breaking machines to the relatively lightweight and powerful tools we use today, the progress has been remarkable. And among these advancements, the Husqvarna 266XP stands out as a true icon.

This chainsaw, produced from the late 1980s through the early 2000s, is more than just a piece of equipment; it’s a testament to Swedish engineering, known for its ruggedness, reliability, and impressive cutting power. Even in today’s market flooded with advanced models, the 266XP remains a favorite among seasoned professionals and hobbyists alike. Its simplicity and ease of maintenance make it an enduring workhorse.

I remember the first time I laid hands on a 266XP. It was back in the late ’90s, and I was helping a friend clear some land for a small cabin. I was immediately struck by its raw power and the way it effortlessly sliced through thick oak logs. It was a revelation, and it sparked a lifelong passion for chainsaws and wood processing.

In this article, I’ll be sharing my years of experience and insights, offering 5 essential woodcutting secrets specifically tailored for the Husqvarna 266XP. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, these tips will help you maximize your chainsaw’s performance, extend its lifespan, and ensure your safety while working with wood.

1. Mastering the Fundamentals: Understanding Your 266XP

Before diving into advanced techniques, it’s crucial to have a solid grasp of the basics. This section will cover everything from the chainsaw’s components to essential maintenance procedures.

1.1 Anatomy of a Legend: Key Components

The Husqvarna 266XP is a relatively simple machine, which contributes to its reliability. Here’s a breakdown of its key components:

Engine: The heart of the chainsaw, typically a 66.7cc two-stroke engine delivering ample power for most woodcutting tasks.
Carburetor: Mixes air and fuel to create the combustible mixture that powers the engine.
Ignition System: Provides the spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture.
Fuel Tank: Holds the gasoline-oil mixture (typically a 50:1 ratio).
Oil Tank: Holds the chain oil, which lubricates the chain and bar.
Chain and Bar: The cutting components of the chainsaw. The bar guides the chain, which has cutting teeth that remove wood.
Clutch: Connects the engine to the chain, allowing the chain to spin only when the engine is running at a certain speed.
Air Filter: Prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine.
Muffler: Reduces engine noise and directs exhaust gases away from the operator.
Chain Brake: A safety device that stops the chain almost instantly in case of kickback.

1.2 Fuel and Oil: The Lifeblood of Your Saw

Using the correct fuel and oil mixture is paramount for the 266XP’s longevity.

Fuel: Always use fresh, high-octane gasoline (at least 89 octane). Ethanol-free gasoline is preferred, as ethanol can damage the carburetor and fuel lines over time. In fact, according to a study by the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI), over 70% of small engine failures are attributed to improper fuel use.
Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. A 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio is generally recommended. This means mixing 50 parts of gasoline with 1 part of oil. Using the wrong oil or an incorrect ratio can lead to engine damage and reduced performance.
Chain Oil: Use a dedicated chain oil designed to lubricate the chain and bar. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the chainsaw. I’ve personally seen the disastrous effects of using the wrong oil – a seized chain and a costly repair bill.

1.3 Essential Maintenance: Keeping Your Saw in Top Shape

Regular maintenance is key to keeping your 266XP running smoothly.

Air Filter: Clean the air filter after each use, or more frequently in dusty conditions. A dirty air filter restricts airflow, reducing engine power and increasing fuel consumption. I recommend having a spare air filter on hand so you can easily swap it out and clean the dirty one later.
Spark Plug: Check the spark plug regularly and replace it if it’s fouled or worn. A faulty spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced engine performance.
Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance. A dull chain is not only less efficient but also more dangerous, as it can increase the risk of kickback. I’ll delve into chain sharpening techniques in more detail later.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar for wear and damage, and replace it if necessary.
Fuel and Oil Lines: Inspect the fuel and oil lines for cracks or leaks, and replace them if needed.
Carburetor Adjustment: If the engine is running poorly, the carburetor may need adjustment. This is best left to a qualified technician, but you can find instructions online if you’re comfortable working on small engines.

2. Chain Sharpening Mastery: The Key to Efficient Cutting

A sharp chain is the most crucial element for efficient and safe woodcutting. A dull chain not only slows down your work but also increases the risk of kickback, a dangerous phenomenon where the chainsaw suddenly jumps back towards the operator.

2.1 Understanding Chain Anatomy

Before you can sharpen a chain effectively, you need to understand its anatomy. A chainsaw chain consists of several key components:

Cutting Teeth: These are the parts of the chain that actually cut the wood. Each tooth has a top plate and a side plate, which form the cutting edges.
Depth Gauges (Rakers): These are small projections located in front of each cutting tooth. They control the depth of cut, preventing the chain from grabbing too much wood at once.
Tie Straps: These connect the cutting teeth and depth gauges together.
Drive Links: These fit into the bar groove and are propelled by the chainsaw’s sprocket.

2.2 Choosing the Right Tools

You’ll need a few essential tools to sharpen your chainsaw chain:

Round File: The most common tool for sharpening chainsaw chains. Choose the correct file size for your chain’s pitch (the distance between the chain’s rivets). A 5/32″ file is generally suitable for the 266XP’s chain.
File Guide: Helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
Depth Gauge Tool: Used to adjust the height of the depth gauges.
Flat File: Used to lower the depth gauges.
Vise: Securely holds the chainsaw bar while you sharpen the chain.

2.3 The Sharpening Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a step-by-step guide to sharpening your chainsaw chain:

Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise, ensuring it’s securely held.
Identify the Correct File Angle: Use a file guide to determine the correct filing angle for your chain. This is typically marked on the file guide.
Sharpen the Cutting Teeth: Place the round file in the file guide and position it against the cutting tooth. Use smooth, consistent strokes to file the tooth, following the existing angle of the cutting edge. File each tooth the same number of times to ensure consistent sharpness.
Check and Adjust Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they’re too high, use a flat file to lower them.
Repeat for All Teeth: Repeat steps 3 and 4 for all the cutting teeth on the chain.
Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain by cutting a small piece of wood. The chain should cut smoothly and aggressively.

I’ve found that taking my time and focusing on maintaining the correct angles is the key to a sharp and long-lasting chain. It’s also important to remember that chain sharpening is a skill that improves with practice.

2.4 Advanced Sharpening Techniques

Using a Chainsaw Sharpener: For more precise and consistent sharpening, consider using a chainsaw sharpener. These tools use a grinding wheel to sharpen the chain, making the process faster and easier.
Maintaining Consistent Tooth Length: Over time, the cutting teeth will wear down. To maintain consistent cutting performance, it’s important to file each tooth the same amount, ensuring they all have the same length.
Understanding Different Chain Types: Different types of chainsaw chains are designed for different applications. Understanding the characteristics of different chain types can help you choose the right chain for your needs.

3. Bar and Chain Selection: Optimizing Performance

The bar and chain are the workhorses of your chainsaw, and selecting the right ones can significantly impact performance and safety.

3.1 Understanding Bar Length

The bar length refers to the length of the chainsaw bar, measured from the tip to where it enters the saw body. Choosing the right bar length depends on the size of the trees you’ll be cutting.

Too Short: A bar that’s too short can limit your ability to cut larger trees.
Too Long: A bar that’s too long can make the chainsaw unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback.

For the Husqvarna 266XP, a bar length of 16-20 inches is generally recommended for most applications. However, you can choose a shorter or longer bar depending on your specific needs.

3.2 Chain Pitch and Gauge: Matching the Right Chain to Your Saw

Chain pitch and gauge are two important measurements that determine the compatibility of a chain with your chainsaw.

Pitch: The pitch is the distance between the chain’s rivets, measured in inches. The 266XP typically uses a chain with a 0.325″ or 3/8″ pitch.
Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links, which fit into the bar groove. The 266XP typically uses a chain with a 0.050″ or 0.058″ gauge.

It’s crucial to use a chain with the correct pitch and gauge for your chainsaw. Using the wrong chain can damage the chainsaw and reduce its performance.

3.3 Chain Types: Choosing the Right Chain for the Job

Different types of chainsaw chains are designed for different applications. Here are some common chain types:

Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutting teeth that are very aggressive and efficient for cutting clean wood. However, they’re also more prone to kickback and require more skill to use.
Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-cornered cutting teeth that are less aggressive than full chisel chains but are more durable and less prone to kickback. They’re a good choice for cutting dirty or frozen wood.
Low-Kickback Chains: These chains have special features that reduce the risk of kickback. They’re a good choice for beginners or anyone who’s concerned about safety.

I generally prefer using a semi-chisel chain on my 266XP, as it offers a good balance of cutting performance and durability.

3.4 Bar Maintenance: Extending the Life of Your Bar

Proper bar maintenance is essential for extending the life of your chainsaw bar. Here are some tips:

Clean the Bar Groove Regularly: The bar groove can become clogged with sawdust and debris, which can reduce chain lubrication and cause the bar to wear prematurely. Clean the bar groove regularly using a screwdriver or a specialized bar groove cleaner.
Check the Bar for Wear: Check the bar for wear and damage, such as burrs or unevenness. If the bar is worn, it can cause the chain to vibrate and cut poorly.
Flip the Bar Regularly: Flipping the bar regularly helps to distribute wear evenly, extending its lifespan.
Lubricate the Bar Sprocket: The bar sprocket is a small wheel located at the tip of the bar that helps to guide the chain. Lubricate the bar sprocket regularly with grease to keep it running smoothly.

4. Felling Techniques: Safe and Efficient Tree Cutting

Felling trees is a dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution. This section will cover essential felling techniques to ensure your safety and efficiency.

4.1 Planning Your Cut: Assessing the Tree and Surroundings

Before you start cutting, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings.

Tree Lean: Determine the direction of the tree’s lean. This will influence the direction in which the tree will fall.
Wind Direction: Consider the wind direction. A strong wind can push the tree in an unexpected direction.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the tree’s path, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Escape Route: Plan an escape route that is clear of obstacles and angled away from the direction of the fall.

4.2 The Notch Cut: Controlling the Direction of Fall

The notch cut is a V-shaped cut that is made on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch cut helps to control the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from splitting or barber-chairing.

Open-Faced Notch: This is the most common type of notch cut. It consists of two cuts that meet at an angle of 70-90 degrees.
Conventional Notch: This notch is made with a horizontal cut at the bottom and an angled cut at the top.
Humboldt Notch: This notch is made with an angled cut at the bottom and a horizontal cut at the top.

4.3 The Back Cut: Completing the Felling Process

The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. The back cut is made slightly higher than the notch cut and leaves a hinge of wood to help control the fall of the tree.

Hinge Wood: The hinge wood is a strip of wood that is left uncut between the notch cut and the back cut. The hinge wood helps to control the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from splitting.
Felling Wedges: Felling wedges are used to help push the tree over in the desired direction. They are inserted into the back cut and driven in with a hammer or axe.

4.4 Safety Precautions: Protecting Yourself from Injury

Felling trees is a dangerous task, so it’s important to take safety precautions to protect yourself from injury.

Wear Protective Gear: Always wear appropriate protective gear, including a helmet, safety glasses, ear protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from the tree while it’s falling.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for falling branches or other hazards.
Never Work Alone: Never work alone when felling trees. Always have someone nearby who can help in case of an emergency.

5. Firewood Preparation: From Log to Cozy Fire

Preparing firewood is a rewarding process that provides warmth and comfort during the cold winter months. This section will cover essential firewood preparation techniques, from bucking logs to seasoning the wood.

5.1 Bucking Logs: Cutting to Length

Bucking logs is the process of cutting them into shorter lengths for firewood.

Choosing the Right Length: The ideal length for firewood depends on the size of your fireplace or wood stove. A common length is 16 inches, but you may need to adjust this depending on your specific needs.
Using a Sawbuck: A sawbuck is a simple wooden frame that holds logs in place while you cut them. Using a sawbuck can make bucking logs easier and safer.
Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid pinching the chainsaw bar. Make sure the log is supported on both sides of the cut to prevent it from binding.

5.2 Splitting Wood: Preparing for Seasoning

Splitting wood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry more quickly.

Manual Splitting: Manual splitting involves using an axe or maul to split the wood. This is a good option for smaller quantities of wood.
Hydraulic Splitters: Hydraulic splitters use hydraulic pressure to split the wood. This is a faster and easier option for larger quantities of wood.
Splitting Techniques: Use proper splitting techniques to avoid injury. Keep your feet shoulder-width apart and swing the axe or maul with a smooth, controlled motion.

5.3 Seasoning Firewood: Drying for Optimal Burning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.

Moisture Content: Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
Stacking Firewood: Stack firewood in a single row, off the ground, to allow for good air circulation.
Drying Time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to season properly. The drying time depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.
Testing for Seasoning: You can test firewood for seasoning by using a moisture meter or by checking for cracks in the end grain. Seasoned firewood will also be lighter in weight and will make a hollow sound when struck together.

I’ve found that stacking my firewood in a sunny, windy location significantly speeds up the seasoning process.

5.4 Wood Storage: Protecting Your Investment

Proper wood storage is essential for keeping your firewood dry and ready to burn.

Covering Firewood: Cover your firewood with a tarp or shed roof to protect it from rain and snow.
Elevating Firewood: Elevate your firewood off the ground to prevent it from absorbing moisture.
Ventilation: Ensure good ventilation around your firewood pile to allow for air circulation.

Conclusion: Mastering the 266XP and the Art of Woodcutting

The Husqvarna 266XP is a legendary chainsaw that has earned its place in the hearts of woodcutters around the world. By mastering the fundamentals, sharpening your chain effectively, selecting the right bar and chain, practicing safe felling techniques, and preparing firewood properly, you can unlock the full potential of this iconic machine and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood.

Remember, safety is always paramount. Always wear appropriate protective gear, be aware of your surroundings, and never take unnecessary risks. With practice and dedication, you can become a skilled and confident woodcutter.