20in Chainsaw Blade Guide (Chain Match Tips for Smooth Cutting)

Let’s talk about chainsaws, specifically the 20-inch chainsaw blade guide and how to match the right chain for smooth cutting. It might seem like a small detail, but getting this right significantly impacts the performance, safety, and longevity of your chainsaw. Think of it like this: a well-maintained, properly matched chainsaw can hold its resale value far better than a neglected one. A buyer will be much more willing to invest in a tool that shows signs of care and efficiency. I’ve seen it firsthand – a little attention to detail can make a big difference when it comes time to upgrade or sell your equipment.

What Makes a 20-Inch Chainsaw Special?

A 20-inch chainsaw refers to the length of the guide bar, the metal rail that the chain runs around. This size is a sweet spot for many users because it offers a good balance of power and maneuverability. It’s long enough to handle moderately sized trees and logs but not so unwieldy that it becomes exhausting to use for extended periods.

• Versatility: Ideal for felling small to medium-sized trees, limbing, bucking (cutting logs into shorter lengths), and general property maintenance.
• Power-to-Weight Ratio: Generally, 20-inch chainsaws offer a decent power output without being excessively heavy, making them suitable for a wide range of users.
• Common Use Cases: Homeowners, farmers, and even some professional loggers find 20-inch chainsaws to be a valuable tool in their arsenal.

Identifying Your Chainsaw’s Specifications

Before even thinking about a new chain, you need to know the specifics of your current setup. This information is usually stamped directly on the guide bar itself. Look for:

• Length: This will confirm it’s actually a 20-inch bar.
• Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that fits into the guide bar groove). Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
• Pitch: This is the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are 3/8″ and .325″.
• Drive Link Count: The number of drive links on the chain. This is crucial for ensuring the chain fits properly.

Why is this so important? Using the wrong chain can damage your chainsaw, lead to kickback (a dangerous situation where the saw suddenly jumps back towards you), and result in poor cutting performance. I remember once, a friend tried to save a few bucks by using a chain he thought was “close enough.” He ended up stripping the drive sprocket and damaging the guide bar, costing him far more than the price of the correct chain.

Matching the Right Chain: A Step-by-Step Guide

Now that you know your chainsaw’s specifications, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of matching the right chain. This is where attention to detail really pays off.

Step 1: Confirming the Guide Bar Specifications

Even if you think you know your guide bar’s specs, double-check! The information stamped on the bar is the definitive source. Write down the length, gauge, and pitch.

Example: My Stihl MS 271 chainsaw has a 20-inch guide bar with a .063″ gauge and a 3/8″ pitch.

Step 2: Determining the Correct Drive Link Count

This is the most critical step. The drive link count must match the specifications for your guide bar. You can usually find this information in your chainsaw’s owner’s manual or on the guide bar itself. If not, you can manually count the drive links on your old chain (assuming it was the correct one).

How to Count Drive Links: Lay the chain out flat and count each of the drive links – the small, tooth-like projections that fit into the groove of the guide bar.

Example: For my Stihl MS 271 with the specifications above, the correct drive link count is 72.

Step 3: Choosing the Right Type of Chain

Not all chains are created equal. There are different types of chains designed for different purposes. Understanding these differences is crucial for optimal performance and safety.

• Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and cut quickly. They are best suited for experienced users and clean wood. They dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris.

  • Pros: Fastest cutting speed, ideal for clean wood.
  • Cons: Dulls quickly, requires more skill to use, prone to kickback.

• Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are more forgiving and durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and dirty wood.

  • Pros: More durable than full chisel, good for general use, less prone to kickback.
  • Cons: Slower cutting speed than full chisel.

• Low-Kickback Chains: These chains are designed with features that reduce the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and anyone concerned about safety.

  • Pros: Reduced risk of kickback, safer for beginners.
  • Cons: Slower cutting speed than full or semi-chisel.

• Ripping Chains: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood along the grain (ripping). They have a different cutter angle than cross-cutting chains.

  • Pros: Optimized for ripping, produces smooth cuts along the grain.
  • Cons: Not suitable for cross-cutting.

My Recommendation: For most users with a 20-inch chainsaw, a semi-chisel or low-kickback chain is the best choice. They offer a good balance of performance, durability, and safety. If you’re an experienced user and primarily cut clean wood, a full chisel chain can provide faster cutting speeds.

Step 4: Purchasing the Chain

Once you have all the necessary information (length, gauge, pitch, drive link count, and chain type), you can purchase the chain from a reputable dealer. Make sure to double-check the specifications before you buy.

Where to Buy:

• Local Chainsaw Dealers: These dealers can provide expert advice and ensure you get the right chain for your chainsaw.
• Online Retailers: Offer a wider selection and often lower prices, but be sure to verify the specifications carefully.
• Hardware Stores: Carry a limited selection of chains, but they can be a convenient option if you need a chain quickly.

Pro Tip: Consider buying a few extra chains. Chains dull over time, and it’s always good to have a spare on hand.

Step 5: Installing the Chain

Installing a new chain is a straightforward process, but it’s important to do it correctly to ensure safety and proper operation.

1. Turn off and unplug the chainsaw. Safety first!
2. Loosen the bar nuts. These nuts hold the guide bar in place.
3. Adjust the chain tensioning screw. This screw adjusts the position of the guide bar, which in turn adjusts the chain tension.
4. Remove the old chain.
5. Place the new chain around the guide bar. Make sure the cutting edges of the teeth are facing in the correct direction (they should point forward on the top of the bar).
6. Position the chain in the drive sprocket. The drive links should fit snugly into the sprocket.
7. Reinstall the guide bar and tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
8. Adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. There should be a small amount of sag on the underside of the bar.
9. Tighten the bar nuts securely.
10. Check the chain tension again after running the saw for a few minutes. The chain will stretch slightly when it’s new, so you may need to readjust the tension.

Safety Note: Always wear gloves when handling chainsaw chains. They are sharp!

Chain Maintenance: Keeping Your Chain Cutting Smoothly

A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which increases the risk of kickback and can damage your chainsaw. Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your chain cutting smoothly and safely.

Sharpening Your Chain

Sharpening your chain is a skill that every chainsaw user should learn. You can sharpen your chain with a file or with a chain grinder.

• Filing: This is the most common method for sharpening chainsaw chains. It requires a round file, a flat file, and a file guide.

  • Round File: Used to sharpen the cutting edges of the teeth.
  • Flat File: Used to adjust the depth gauges (the small projections in front of the cutters).
  • File Guide: Helps you maintain the correct angle and depth when filing.

  How to File a Chainsaw Chain:

  1. Secure the chainsaw in a vise.
  2. Use the file guide to maintain the correct angle.
  3. File each tooth evenly. Use smooth, consistent strokes.
  4. Check the depth gauges. They should be slightly lower than the cutting edges.
  5. Adjust the depth gauges with the flat file if necessary.

• Chain Grinder: This is a faster and more precise method for sharpening chainsaw chains. However, it requires a specialized tool.

  How to Use a Chain Grinder:

  1. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  2. Set the correct angle and depth.
  3. Grind each tooth evenly.
  4. Be careful not to overheat the chain.

When to Sharpen: Sharpen your chain whenever it starts to feel dull or when you notice that it’s taking more effort to cut. I usually sharpen my chain after every few tanks of gas.

Cleaning Your Chain

A clean chain cuts better and lasts longer. After each use, clean your chain with a brush and solvent to remove any dirt, debris, or sap.

How to Clean a Chainsaw Chain:

1. Remove the chain from the chainsaw.
2. Brush the chain with a stiff brush to remove loose dirt and debris.
3. Soak the chain in a solvent (such as kerosene or mineral spirits) to dissolve sap and grease.
4. Brush the chain again.
5. Rinse the chain with clean water.
6. Dry the chain thoroughly.
7. Lubricate the chain with chainsaw bar and chain oil.

Lubricating Your Chain

Proper lubrication is essential for keeping your chain running smoothly and preventing wear and tear. Use a high-quality chainsaw bar and chain oil.

How to Lubricate a Chainsaw Chain:

1. Fill the oil reservoir on your chainsaw with bar and chain oil.
2. Adjust the oiler setting to provide adequate lubrication.
3. Check the oil level regularly and refill as needed.

Pro Tip: Use a bar and chain oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other types of oil, as they may not provide adequate lubrication.

Chain Tension

Maintaining proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.

How to Adjust Chain Tension:

1. Loosen the bar nuts.
2. Adjust the chain tensioning screw.
3. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
4. There should be a small amount of sag on the underside of the bar.
5. Tighten the bar nuts securely.
6. Check the chain tension again after running the saw for a few minutes.

Understanding Wood Types and Their Impact on Chain Selection

The type of wood you’re cutting significantly impacts chain wear and performance. Softer woods like pine require less aggressive chains and sharpening, while hardwoods like oak or maple demand sharper, more durable chains.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

• Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s generally easier to cut but can be harder on chains due to the sap and moisture.
• Seasoned Wood: This wood has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. It’s harder to cut but generally cleaner and less abrasive to chains.

My Experience: I once spent a whole day cutting green pine logs for a cabin project. The sap buildup on my chain was incredible. I had to stop and clean it every hour to maintain decent cutting performance.

Softwoods vs. Hardwoods

• Softwoods: These woods come from coniferous trees like pine, fir, and spruce. They are generally easier to cut and less abrasive to chains.
• Hardwoods: These woods come from deciduous trees like oak, maple, and birch. They are denser and harder to cut, requiring sharper and more durable chains.

Chain Selection Based on Wood Type:

• Softwoods: Semi-chisel or low-kickback chains are usually sufficient.
• Hardwoods: Full chisel or aggressive semi-chisel chains are recommended.

Chainsaw Safety: A Paramount Concern

No discussion about chainsaws is complete without emphasizing safety. Chainsaws are powerful tools that can cause serious injury if not used properly.

Essential Safety Gear

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
• Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a near-miss when a falling branch struck a colleague who wasn’t wearing a helmet. He was lucky to escape with just a minor concussion. That incident reinforced the importance of wearing proper safety gear every time you use a chainsaw.

Safe Operating Practices

• Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s features and safety instructions.
• Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders at least twice the length of the tree you’re cutting away from the work area.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Watch out for obstacles, power lines, and other hazards.
• Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Avoid pinching the bar and be aware of the risk of kickback.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This is a dangerous position that increases the risk of losing control of the chainsaw.
• Take Breaks: Chainsawing can be tiring. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to accidents.
• Never Operate a Chainsaw Under the Influence of Drugs or Alcohol: This is extremely dangerous and can impair your judgment and coordination.

Understanding and Preventing Kickback

Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw that can occur when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object. It’s one of the most common causes of chainsaw injuries.

How to Prevent Kickback:

• Use a low-kickback chain.
• Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
• Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw.
• Keep the chain sharp.
• Be aware of your surroundings.

Strategic Insights for Efficient Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation

Beyond the technical details of chain matching and maintenance, here are some strategic insights I’ve gleaned from years of experience in wood processing and firewood preparation.

Optimizing Felling Techniques

Felling a tree safely and efficiently is crucial for the entire wood processing operation. Here are some tips:

• Plan Your Felling Cut: Determine the direction the tree will fall and clear a path for escape.
• Use Proper Notching Techniques: Create a notch that is at least one-third the diameter of the tree.
• Make a Back Cut: The back cut should be slightly above the notch and leave a hinge of wood to control the fall of the tree.
• Use Wedges: If necessary, use wedges to help guide the tree’s fall.

Case Study: I once had to fell a large oak tree near a building. I used a combination of precise notching, careful back cutting, and strategically placed wedges to ensure the tree fell exactly where I wanted it to.

Efficient Log Splitting

Splitting logs can be a time-consuming and physically demanding task. Here are some tips for making it more efficient:

• Use a Hydraulic Log Splitter: This is the most efficient way to split logs, especially larger ones.
• Choose the Right Axe: A splitting axe with a heavy head and a wide blade is ideal for splitting logs by hand.
• Split Logs When They Are Green: Green wood is easier to split than seasoned wood.
• Use a Splitting Wedge: A splitting wedge can help split tough logs.

Hydraulic Splitters: I highly recommend investing in a hydraulic log splitter if you process a lot of firewood. It will save you time, energy, and reduce the risk of injury. I use a 27-ton gas-powered splitter, and it has significantly increased my firewood production.

Optimal Firewood Drying and Stacking

Proper drying and stacking are essential for producing high-quality firewood.

• Split Firewood Before Drying: This allows the wood to dry more quickly.
• Stack Firewood Off the Ground: This allows air to circulate around the wood, promoting drying.
• Stack Firewood in a Sunny Location: This will help the wood dry more quickly.
• Cover Firewood During Wet Weather: This will prevent the wood from reabsorbing moisture.

Drying Time: The amount of time it takes for firewood to dry depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, it takes at least six months for firewood to dry properly.

My Firewood Stacking Method: I stack my firewood in rows, leaving a few inches of space between each row. I cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. This method allows for good air circulation and prevents the wood from getting too wet.

Conclusion: Putting It All Together

Matching the right chain to your 20-inch chainsaw is a crucial step for ensuring safe, efficient, and enjoyable wood processing. By understanding your chainsaw’s specifications, choosing the right type of chain, and maintaining it properly, you can maximize its performance and longevity. Remember to prioritize safety at all times by wearing appropriate safety gear and following safe operating practices.

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