20 Inch Bar Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips for Precision Cutting)
What if you could transform raw timber into perfectly cut lumber, ready for any project, with a tool that feels like an extension of your own arm? What if you could fell trees with the confidence of a seasoned logger, knowing every cut is precise and safe? That’s the power of a well-chosen and expertly wielded 20-inch bar chainsaw.
The global wood processing and firewood industry is a multi-billion-dollar sector, and it’s growing. In 2023, the global firewood market was valued at approximately $15.2 billion and is projected to reach $19.8 billion by 2030, reflecting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.8%. This growth is driven by increasing demand for renewable energy sources and the rising popularity of wood-burning stoves and fireplaces. Similarly, the logging industry, a crucial part of the timber supply chain, continues to adapt to sustainable practices and technological advancements, with a focus on maximizing yield and minimizing environmental impact. Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a weekend warrior tackling firewood preparation, understanding the nuances of chainsaw operation is paramount for safety, efficiency, and achieving high-quality results.
In this guide, I will share my expert tips for using a 20-inch bar chainsaw with precision. I’ll draw from years of personal experience, from felling towering pines in the Pacific Northwest to meticulously processing firewood in the crisp mountain air. Think of this as your personal masterclass in chainsaw mastery.
Mastering the 20-Inch Bar Chainsaw: 5 Expert Tips for Precision Cutting
A 20-inch bar chainsaw is a versatile workhorse, capable of handling a wide range of tasks, from felling medium-sized trees to bucking logs for firewood. However, its power also demands respect and a thorough understanding of proper techniques. Let’s dive into the five expert tips that will elevate your chainsaw skills.
Tip #1: Understanding Your Chainsaw and Its Limitations
Before you even think about starting your chainsaw, you need to know it inside and out. This isn’t just about knowing where the on/off switch is. It’s about understanding the engine, the chain, and the bar.
Chainsaw Anatomy 101
- Engine: Most 20-inch bar chainsaws are powered by two-stroke gasoline engines. These engines require a precise mix of gasoline and oil. Always use the recommended fuel-to-oil ratio specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong ratio can lead to engine damage and premature wear. I once learned this the hard way when I mixed the fuel incorrectly on a brand-new saw. The engine seized up after only a few hours of use, costing me a hefty repair bill. Lesson learned: always double-check your fuel mixture!
- Chain: The chain is the heart of your chainsaw. It’s composed of cutters, tie straps, and drive links. Different types of chains are designed for different purposes. For example, a full-chisel chain is aggressive and cuts quickly but dulls easily, while a semi-chisel chain is more durable and better suited for dirty wood. Always use the correct chain for the type of wood you’re cutting.
- Bar: The bar is the metal guide that supports the chain. Bar length is measured from the tip to where it enters the saw body. A 20-inch bar is suitable for trees up to about 16 inches in diameter. Exceeding this limit can put excessive strain on the saw and lead to kickback.
- Safety Features: Modern chainsaws are equipped with several safety features, including a chain brake, a throttle lock, and a chain catcher. Understand how each of these features works and use them properly. The chain brake, in particular, is your first line of defense against kickback.
Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: A Critical Distinction
Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is crucial for both chainsaw operation and firewood preparation.
- Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood that still contains a high moisture content (often exceeding 50%). Green wood is heavier, more difficult to split, and prone to warping and fungal growth. Cutting green wood requires more power and can dull your chain faster.
- Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been allowed to dry for several months or even years. Seasoned wood has a moisture content of 20% or less. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns much more efficiently. Properly seasoned firewood produces more heat and less smoke.
Data Point: Studies have shown that burning green wood can reduce heating efficiency by as much as 50% compared to seasoned wood. Furthermore, burning green wood produces significantly more creosote, which can build up in your chimney and increase the risk of a chimney fire.
Chainsaw Limitations: Knowing When to Say No
A 20-inch bar chainsaw is a powerful tool, but it’s not a magic wand. Don’t try to fell trees that are too large for your saw. Overstraining your saw can lead to damage and increase the risk of accidents. Similarly, avoid cutting wood that is heavily contaminated with dirt or rocks, as this will quickly dull your chain.
Personal Story: I once tried to fell a massive oak tree with my 20-inch bar chainsaw. The tree was significantly larger than what the saw was designed for, and I ended up getting the bar pinched in the cut. It took me hours to free the saw, and I nearly damaged it in the process. From that day on, I always made sure to use the right tool for the job.
Tip #2: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening and Maintenance
A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, which increases the risk of kickback and fatigue. A sharp chain, on the other hand, glides through wood with ease, making your work safer and more efficient.
The Importance of Regular Sharpening
Sharpen your chain every time you refuel your saw or whenever you notice it’s not cutting as cleanly as it should. A good rule of thumb is to sharpen your chain after every two to three tanks of fuel.
Sharpening Tools and Techniques
There are several ways to sharpen a chainsaw chain, including using a file, a grinder, or a specialized sharpening tool.
- File: Filing is the most common and portable method. It requires a round file of the correct diameter for your chain and a file guide to maintain the correct angle.
- Step 1: Secure the chainsaw bar in a vise or clamp.
- Step 2: Use the file guide to maintain the correct angle (typically 30-35 degrees).
- Step 3: File each cutter from the inside out, using smooth, consistent strokes.
- Step 4: Check the depth gauges and file them down if necessary.
- Grinder: A grinder is faster and more precise than filing, but it requires more setup and can be more aggressive.
- Step 1: Secure the chainsaw bar in the grinder.
- Step 2: Adjust the grinding wheel to the correct angle and depth.
- Step 3: Grind each cutter briefly, being careful not to overheat the metal.
- Step 4: Check the depth gauges and file them down if necessary.
- Specialized Sharpening Tools: These tools are designed to make sharpening easier and more consistent. They typically use a rotating stone or abrasive wheel to sharpen the cutters.
Actionable Tip: Invest in a quality chainsaw sharpening kit that includes a file, a file guide, and a depth gauge tool. Learning to sharpen your chain properly will save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.
Chain Maintenance: Beyond Sharpening
In addition to sharpening, regular chain maintenance includes:
- Cleaning: Clean your chain after each use to remove dirt, sawdust, and sap.
- Lubrication: Keep your chain properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
- Tensioning: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust it as needed. A loose chain can derail and cause serious injury.
- Inspection: Inspect your chain regularly for damage, such as cracked cutters or broken tie straps. Replace the chain if necessary.
Data Point: A well-maintained chainsaw chain can last up to three times longer than a neglected chain. Regular maintenance not only extends the life of your chain but also improves cutting performance and reduces the risk of accidents.
Tip #3: Mastering Felling Techniques for Safe and Efficient Tree Removal
Felling trees is one of the most dangerous tasks you can perform with a chainsaw. It requires careful planning, precise execution, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of nature.
Planning Your Felling Operation
Before you start cutting, take the time to assess the situation.
- Assess the Tree: Look for signs of rot, disease, or structural weaknesses. Pay attention to the tree’s lean and the direction of the wind.
- Identify Hazards: Look for overhead power lines, obstacles, and other potential hazards.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Clear a path away from the tree at a 45-degree angle in the opposite direction of the intended fall.
- Notify Others: Let someone know you’re felling trees and when you expect to be finished.
The Felling Cut: A Step-by-Step Guide
The felling cut consists of three main cuts: the notch cut, the back cut, and the felling wedge.
- Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction of the fall. It should be made at a 45-degree angle on the side of the tree facing the intended fall direction.
- Step 1: Make the top cut of the notch at a 45-degree angle, cutting about one-third of the way into the tree.
- Step 2: Make the bottom cut of the notch, meeting the top cut at a 45-degree angle.
- Step 3: Remove the wedge of wood from the notch.
- Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
- Step 1: Start the back cut, being careful not to cut through the hinge.
- Step 2: Insert a felling wedge into the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw.
- Step 3: Continue the back cut, leaving a hinge of wood about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- Felling Wedge: The felling wedge is used to help steer the tree in the desired direction and prevent it from falling backwards onto the saw.
- Step 1: Insert the felling wedge into the back cut.
- Step 2: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedge further into the cut, gradually tilting the tree in the desired direction.
- Step 3: As the tree begins to fall, move quickly and safely to your escape route.
Actionable Tip: Practice your felling techniques on smaller trees before attempting to fell larger ones. Consider taking a professional chainsaw safety course to learn proper felling techniques.
Dealing with Hangups: When Things Go Wrong
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a tree will hang up in another tree. This can be a dangerous situation, as the hung-up tree can fall unexpectedly.
- Never Climb a Hung-Up Tree: Climbing a hung-up tree is extremely dangerous and should never be attempted.
- Use a Winch or Cable Puller: Use a winch or cable puller to pull the hung-up tree down.
- Call a Professional: If you’re not comfortable dealing with a hung-up tree, call a professional arborist or tree service.
Case Study: In 2022, a study by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) found that hung-up trees were a contributing factor in nearly 20% of chainsaw-related fatalities in the logging industry. This highlights the importance of proper felling techniques and the need to avoid climbing hung-up trees.
Tip #4: Bucking and Limbing: Transforming Trees into Manageable Logs
Once you’ve felled a tree, the next step is to buck it into manageable logs and limb it. Bucking is the process of cutting the trunk into shorter lengths, while limbing is the process of removing the branches.
Bucking Techniques: Cutting Logs to Size
- Plan Your Cuts: Before you start cutting, plan your cuts to minimize waste and maximize the yield of usable wood.
- Support the Log: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use log jacks or other supports.
- Use the Correct Cutting Technique: There are several different bucking techniques, depending on the size and position of the log.
- Overbuck: Cut from the top of the log, stopping just short of the bottom. Then, roll the log over and finish the cut from the bottom.
- Underbuck: Cut from the bottom of the log, stopping just short of the top. Then, roll the log over and finish the cut from the top.
- Through Cut: Cut completely through the log in one pass. This technique is only suitable for small logs.
Actionable Tip: Use a chainsaw mill to cut logs into lumber. A chainsaw mill is a device that attaches to your chainsaw and allows you to cut logs into boards of uniform thickness.
Limbing Techniques: Removing Branches Safely
- Work from the Base to the Tip: Start by limbing the branches closest to the base of the tree and work your way towards the tip.
- Use the Correct Cutting Technique: Use the same cutting techniques as bucking, depending on the size and position of the branch.
- Be Aware of Springback: Be aware of the potential for springback, especially when cutting branches under tension.
Personal Story: I once got hit in the face by a springback branch while limbing a tree. I was lucky to escape with only a few scratches, but it taught me a valuable lesson about the importance of being aware of your surroundings.
Tip #5: Preparing Firewood: From Log to Cozy Fire
If your goal is to produce firewood, the final step is to split the logs and season the wood.
Splitting Techniques: Breaking Logs Down
- Use the Right Tool: The best tool for splitting logs depends on the size and type of wood.
- Axe: An axe is suitable for splitting small to medium-sized logs.
- Maul: A maul is a heavier tool that is better suited for splitting larger logs.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is the fastest and easiest way to split logs, especially large ones.
- Split with the Grain: Always split logs with the grain. This will make the process much easier and reduce the risk of the wood splintering.
- Use a Splitting Wedge: Use a splitting wedge to help split logs that are particularly difficult to split.
Data Point: Studies have shown that using a hydraulic log splitter can increase firewood production by as much as 50% compared to using an axe or maul.
Seasoning Firewood: The Key to Efficient Burning
Seasoning firewood is the process of allowing the wood to dry to a moisture content of 20% or less. Properly seasoned firewood burns more efficiently, produces more heat, and creates less smoke.
- Stack the Wood Properly: Stack the wood in a single row, allowing for air circulation.
- Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent it from absorbing moisture.
- Cover the Wood: Cover the wood with a tarp or shed to protect it from rain and snow.
- Allow Ample Time for Drying: Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.
Original Research: I conducted a personal experiment to compare the drying rates of different firewood stacks. I stacked three different types of wood (oak, maple, and birch) in different configurations (single row, double row, and covered vs. uncovered). I measured the moisture content of the wood every month for a year. The results showed that the single-row stacks dried the fastest, and the covered stacks dried slightly faster than the uncovered stacks. Oak took the longest to dry, while birch dried the fastest.
Troubleshooting:
- Chainsaw Won’t Start: Check the fuel, spark plug, and air filter.
- Chainsaw Cuts Poorly: Sharpen the chain or replace it if necessary.
- Chainsaw Kicks Back: Use proper cutting techniques and be aware of your surroundings.
- Logs are Difficult to Split: Use a maul or hydraulic log splitter.
- Firewood Won’t Dry: Stack the wood properly and allow ample time for drying.
Next Steps and Additional Resources
Congratulations! You’ve now learned the five expert tips for using a 20-inch bar chainsaw with precision. To continue your journey to chainsaw mastery, I recommend the following:
- Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: A chainsaw safety course will provide you with hands-on training and teach you proper techniques for felling trees, bucking logs, and limbing branches.
- Join a Local Logging or Firewood Club: Joining a local club will give you the opportunity to learn from experienced professionals and share your knowledge with others.
- Invest in Quality Tools and Equipment: Investing in quality tools and equipment will make your work safer and more efficient.
- Practice, Practice, Practice: The more you practice, the better you will become at using a chainsaw.
Suppliers of Logging Tools and Drying Equipment Rental Services:
- Northern Tool + Equipment: Offers a wide range of chainsaws, logging tools, and firewood processing equipment.
- Bailey’s: Specializes in logging and tree care equipment, including chainsaws, protective gear, and felling tools.
- Sunbelt Rentals: Provides rental services for a variety of equipment, including log splitters and drying equipment.
- Local Equipment Rental Companies: Check with local equipment rental companies for log splitters and other firewood processing equipment.
Remember, safety is always the top priority. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. And never operate a chainsaw if you are tired, distracted, or under the influence of drugs or alcohol. With practice, patience, and a commitment to safety, you can master the art of using a 20-inch bar chainsaw with precision and efficiency. Now, go out there and make some sawdust!