2 Spool Log Splitter Valve: Adding a 2nd Valve for Log Lift (DIY Hack)

In many regions around the globe, the demand for firewood remains a constant, whether for heating homes through harsh winters or for cooking in areas where access to modern energy sources is limited. The efficiency with which we process logs into usable firewood directly impacts both our comfort and our wallets. In my experience, and that of countless others I’ve worked with in the wood processing industry, back strain and wasted time are common culprits when dealing with heavy logs. This is where a log lift system integrated into a log splitter becomes incredibly valuable. The user’s intent, in seeking to add a second valve for a log lift to a 2-spool log splitter, is clear: to enhance the functionality and ergonomics of their existing equipment, reducing physical strain and boosting overall productivity.

I’ve personally witnessed firsthand the transformation a simple DIY upgrade can bring to firewood processing. What starts as a weekend project often evolves into a refined system that significantly cuts down on labor. This guide is designed to walk you through the process of adding a second valve to your log splitter, specifically for operating a log lift. It’s a project that combines mechanical know-how with practical application, and I’m here to share my insights and experiences to make it as smooth and successful as possible for you.

Understanding the Basics: Hydraulics and Log Splitters

Before diving into the specifics of adding a second valve, let’s establish a solid foundation by clarifying some key concepts.

• Hydraulics: At its core, hydraulics involves using pressurized fluid to transmit force. In a log splitter, a hydraulic pump pushes oil into a cylinder, which in turn drives a ram to split the log. The pressure is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Bar (metric unit of pressure).
• Log Splitter Valves: These valves control the direction and flow of hydraulic fluid. A standard 2-spool valve on a log splitter typically handles two functions: advancing the ram to split the log and retracting it. The “spool” refers to the sliding component inside the valve that directs the oil.
• Open Center vs. Closed Center Hydraulics: This is a critical distinction. Most log splitters use an open-center hydraulic system. In an open-center system, when no valve is activated, the hydraulic fluid flows freely back to the reservoir with minimal pressure. In a closed-center system, the pump maintains constant pressure, which requires different valve types. Most log splitters use open-center systems, but it’s always best to confirm this before making any modifications.
• Hydraulic Fittings and Hoses: These components connect the various parts of the hydraulic system. Common types include NPT (National Pipe Thread) and JIC (Joint Industry Council). It’s essential to use fittings and hoses rated for the pressure your log splitter operates at.
• GPM (Gallons Per Minute): This measures the flow rate of the hydraulic pump. The GPM rating of your pump will influence the speed at which your log lift operates.
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood refers to freshly cut wood with high moisture content, typically above 30%. Seasoned wood has been air-dried, reducing the moisture content to around 20% or less. Seasoned wood is easier to split and burns more efficiently. I recommend using seasoned wood to test your log lift after installation, as it provides a more consistent and predictable load.

Planning Your Log Lift System

The first step is to conceptualize what you want your log lift to accomplish. Consider these factors:

• Lift Capacity: How heavy are the logs you typically handle? This will determine the size of the hydraulic cylinder you need for the lift. I generally recommend over-sizing slightly for safety and to accommodate occasional heavier logs.
• Lift Height: How high do you need to lift the logs? This will influence the stroke length of the hydraulic cylinder.
• Mounting Location: Where will you mount the cylinder and the lift arm? Consider the existing structure of your log splitter and choose a location that provides adequate support and doesn’t interfere with the splitting process.
• Valve Placement: Where will you mount the new 2-spool valve? It should be easily accessible and positioned so that the hoses can be routed cleanly.

Case Study: My Personal Log Lift Project

I once tackled a similar project for my own firewood operation. I was constantly dealing with oak logs that weighed upwards of 200 pounds. Manually lifting these logs onto the splitter was exhausting and time-consuming. My solution was to build a log lift using a 3-inch bore hydraulic cylinder with a 24-inch stroke. I mounted the cylinder vertically to the side of the log splitter, with a pivoting arm that cradled the logs. The second 2-spool valve was mounted within easy reach, right next to the original splitter valve. This setup dramatically reduced the physical strain and increased my splitting efficiency.

• New 2-Spool Hydraulic Valve: Choose a valve with a GPM rating that matches or exceeds the GPM rating of your log splitter’s pump. Make sure it’s an open-center valve. I recommend a valve with a detent feature for the ‘lift’ function, so the log lift stays in the up position without constantly holding the lever.
• Hydraulic Cylinder: Select a cylinder with the appropriate bore, stroke, and mounting style for your log lift. Use a hydraulic cylinder size calculator online to determine the necessary bore size based on the weight of your logs and the desired operating pressure.
• Hydraulic Hoses: Purchase hoses rated for the pressure of your log splitter. Measure the distance between the valve, the cylinder, and the pump to determine the required hose lengths. I always add a bit of extra length to allow for flexibility.
• Hydraulic Fittings: You’ll need fittings to connect the hoses to the valve and the cylinder. Make sure to use the correct type and size of fittings (NPT or JIC) for your components.
• Steel Tubing or Piping (Optional): For routing hydraulic lines over longer distances or in areas where hoses might be exposed to abrasion, consider using steel tubing or piping. This provides added protection and a cleaner look.
• Steel Plate or Angle Iron: For fabricating the log lift arm and mounting brackets.
• Welding Equipment: If you plan to fabricate your own brackets and lift arm.
• Drill and Drill Bits: For drilling mounting holes.
• Wrenches and Sockets: For tightening hydraulic fittings.
• Pipe Thread Sealant: To prevent leaks in threaded connections. Teflon tape is acceptable, but a liquid sealant is often more reliable.
• Hydraulic Fluid: Use the type of hydraulic fluid recommended for your log splitter.
• Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when working with hydraulic systems.
• Gloves: To protect your hands.
• Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
• Marker: For marking cut lines.
• Angle Grinder (Optional): For cutting and shaping steel.

Step-by-Step Guide to Adding the 2nd Valve

Step 1: Preliminary Checks and Safety Precautions

• Disconnect the Log Splitter: Before starting any work, disconnect the log splitter from its power source (electric or gas engine).
• Relieve Pressure: Carefully relieve any residual pressure in the hydraulic system. This can often be done by cycling the existing valve a few times with the engine off.
• Clean Work Area: Ensure you have a clean and well-lit workspace. Hydraulic fluid spills can be slippery and hazardous.
• Review Schematics: If possible, obtain a hydraulic schematic of your log splitter. This will help you understand the existing system and identify the correct connections.

Step 2: Mounting the New 2-Spool Valve

• Choose a Location: Select a convenient and accessible location for the new valve. Consider ergonomics and hose routing.
• Fabricate Mounting Bracket: If necessary, fabricate a mounting bracket from steel plate or angle iron. Weld or bolt the bracket to the log splitter frame.
• Mount the Valve: Securely mount the valve to the bracket. Ensure it’s properly aligned and won’t vibrate loose.

Step 3: Plumbing the Hydraulic Lines

This is the most critical step. Incorrect plumbing can damage your log splitter or create a safety hazard.

• Identify the “Power Beyond” Port: On your existing log splitter valve, locate the “power beyond” port. This port allows you to tap into the hydraulic flow to power additional circuits. It is often marked with a “PB” or a similar designation. If your existing valve doesn’t have a power beyond port, you’ll need to replace it with one that does, or explore alternative methods of tapping into the hydraulic system (which are generally more complex and not recommended for beginners).
• Connect the Input Line: Connect a hydraulic hose from the power beyond port on the existing valve to the “IN” or “P” port on the new 2-spool valve. This will supply pressurized hydraulic fluid to the new valve.
• Connect the Return Line: Connect a hydraulic hose from the “OUT” or “T” (tank) port on the new 2-spool valve to the hydraulic reservoir (tank) of your log splitter. This returns the hydraulic fluid to the reservoir after it has passed through the valve.
• Connect the Cylinder Lines: Connect two hydraulic hoses from the remaining two ports on the new 2-spool valve to the two ports on the hydraulic cylinder of your log lift. These hoses will control the extension and retraction of the cylinder.

Important Considerations:

• Hose Routing: Route the hoses carefully to avoid kinks, sharp bends, and abrasion. Use hose clamps to secure the hoses to the frame of the log splitter.
• Fitting Tightness: Tighten all fittings securely, but avoid over-tightening, which can damage the threads. Use pipe thread sealant to ensure a leak-free connection.
• Double-Check Connections: Before proceeding, double-check all connections to ensure they are correct and tight.

Step 4: Fabricating the Log Lift Arm and Mounting

• Design the Lift Arm: Design a lift arm that will securely cradle the logs and provide adequate lifting capacity. Consider using a U-shaped design with reinforced sides.
• Fabricate the Lift Arm: Cut and weld the lift arm from steel plate or angle iron. Ensure the welds are strong and the arm is properly aligned.
• Mount the Cylinder: Securely mount the hydraulic cylinder to the log splitter frame. The mounting location should allow the cylinder to extend and retract smoothly without binding.
• Connect the Lift Arm: Connect the lift arm to the cylinder rod using a clevis pin or a similar type of connection. Ensure the connection is strong and allows for free movement.

Step 5: Testing and Adjustments

• Fill the Hydraulic Reservoir: Ensure the hydraulic reservoir is filled to the correct level with the appropriate type of hydraulic fluid.
• Bleed the System: Bleed the air from the hydraulic system by cycling the new valve several times. This will remove any air pockets that can cause erratic operation.
• Test the Log Lift: With the engine running, carefully test the log lift. Check for leaks and ensure the cylinder extends and retracts smoothly.
• Adjust the Valve Settings: If necessary, adjust the settings on the new valve to optimize the speed and force of the log lift.
• Load Testing: Gradually increase the weight of the logs you are lifting to ensure the system is functioning properly and the lift arm is strong enough.

Personalized Story:

I remember one instance where I rushed the testing phase and didn’t properly bleed the hydraulic system. When I put a heavy oak log on the lift, the cylinder shuddered violently, and the lift arm nearly buckled. It was a valuable lesson in the importance of thorough testing and attention to detail.

Safety Considerations

• Never Exceed the Rated Capacity: Never attempt to lift logs that exceed the rated capacity of the hydraulic cylinder or the lift arm. Overloading the system can cause damage or injury.
• Keep Hands and Feet Clear: Keep your hands and feet clear of the moving parts of the log lift and the log splitter.
• Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when operating the log splitter and the log lift.
• Inspect Regularly: Regularly inspect the hydraulic hoses, fittings, and lift arm for signs of wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged components immediately.
• Emergency Shut-Off: Ensure you have a readily accessible emergency shut-off switch for the log splitter.

Advanced Techniques and Considerations

• Adding a Flow Control Valve: To fine-tune the speed of the log lift, consider adding a flow control valve to the hydraulic line. This will allow you to adjust the flow rate of the hydraulic fluid and control the speed of the cylinder.
• Using a Diverter Valve: If you want to be able to switch between using the log lift and another hydraulic function, such as a log grapple, you can install a diverter valve. This will allow you to direct the hydraulic flow to either the log lift or the other function.
• Integrating a Log Deck: For high-volume firewood processing, consider integrating a log deck with your log lift. A log deck is a platform that holds a supply of logs, allowing you to continuously feed the log splitter.
• Remote Control Operation: For added convenience, you can convert the log lift to remote control operation using a wireless hydraulic valve controller.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

• Log Lift Not Lifting:
  • Possible Causes: Low hydraulic fluid level, air in the system, faulty valve, undersized cylinder, obstructed hydraulic lines.
  • Solutions: Check and fill the hydraulic fluid reservoir, bleed the system, replace the valve, upgrade to a larger cylinder, clear any obstructions in the hydraulic lines.
• Log Lift Lifting Slowly:
  • Possible Causes: Low hydraulic fluid level, undersized pump, flow restriction in the hydraulic lines, undersized cylinder.
  • Solutions: Check and fill the hydraulic fluid reservoir, upgrade to a larger pump, check for and remove any flow restrictions, upgrade to a larger cylinder.
• Hydraulic Leaks:
  • Possible Causes: Loose fittings, damaged hoses, worn seals.
  • Solutions: Tighten fittings, replace damaged hoses, replace worn seals.
• Erratic Operation:
  • Possible Causes: Air in the system, faulty valve, contamination in the hydraulic fluid.
  • Solutions: Bleed the system, replace the valve, flush and replace the hydraulic fluid.

Cost Analysis

The cost of adding a second valve for a log lift can vary depending on the quality of the components and whether you fabricate your own brackets and lift arm. Here’s a rough estimate:

• 2-Spool Hydraulic Valve: $50 – $200
• Hydraulic Cylinder: $50 – $200
• Hydraulic Hoses and Fittings: $50 – $150
• Steel for Brackets and Lift Arm: $20 – $50
• Hydraulic Fluid: $20 – $50
• Total Estimated Cost: $190 – $650

Keep in mind that these are just estimates, and the actual cost may vary depending on your specific needs and resources.

Strategic Advantages

Adding a log lift to your log splitter offers several strategic advantages:

• Increased Efficiency: Reduces the time and effort required to load logs onto the splitter, allowing you to process more firewood in less time.
• Reduced Physical Strain: Minimizes the risk of back injuries and other physical ailments associated with lifting heavy logs.
• Improved Ergonomics: Creates a more comfortable and user-friendly work environment.
• Enhanced Safety: Reduces the risk of accidents caused by lifting heavy logs.
• Increased Profitability: By increasing efficiency and reducing labor costs, you can increase the profitability of your firewood operation.

Drying Methods and Moisture Content Targets

Once you’ve split the firewood, proper drying is essential for efficient burning.

• Air Drying: The most common method. Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area, off the ground, and covered to protect it from rain and snow. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. This typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood species and climate. Oak, for example, takes longer to season than softer woods like pine.
• Kiln Drying: A faster method that uses heat to remove moisture. Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 10-15% and burns very cleanly.
• Solar Drying: Using a greenhouse-like structure to trap solar heat and accelerate the drying process.

I always recommend investing in a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your firewood. This will ensure you are selling or burning properly seasoned wood.

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine the size and weight of the logs you typically handle and the specific requirements of your log lift.
2. Create a Detailed Plan: Develop a detailed plan that includes a parts list, a schematic diagram, and a step-by-step procedure.
3. Gather Your Materials and Tools: Purchase the necessary components and gather the required tools.
4. Follow the Step-by-Step Guide: Carefully follow the instructions in this guide, paying close attention to safety precautions.
5. Test and Adjust: Thoroughly test the log lift and make any necessary adjustments.
6. Enjoy the Benefits: Experience the increased efficiency, reduced physical strain, and improved ergonomics of your upgraded log splitter.

Adding a log lift to your log splitter is a rewarding DIY project that can significantly enhance your firewood processing operation. By following the steps outlined in this guide and taking the necessary safety precautions, you can create a safe, efficient, and user-friendly system that will save you time, effort, and money. Remember to start with a solid plan, pay attention to detail, and don’t hesitate to seek help from experienced professionals if needed. Good luck with your project, and happy splitting!

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