038 AV Super Stihl Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

That familiar scent of sawdust and bar oil… it’s more than just a smell; it’s a memory. It takes me back to my grandfather’s workshop, the rhythmic roar of his old Stihl chainsaw echoing through the trees. He taught me everything I know about wood, about respecting the forest, and about the sheer satisfaction of turning raw timber into something useful. That 038 AV Super Stihl, a beast of a machine, was our workhorse. It felt like an extension of our own bodies, a tool that could conquer any log in its path.

Now, decades later, I want to share some of the wisdom I’ve gained, the tricks of the trade I’ve learned from my grandfather and years of hands-on experience. This guide isn’t just about using a chainsaw; it’s about mastering it, understanding its capabilities, and using it safely and effectively. We’ll be focusing on the 038 AV Super Stihl, but many of these principles apply to other chainsaws as well. Get ready to dive into five pro woodcutting hacks that will transform your approach to timber and firewood.

038 AV Super Stihl Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

Understanding Your Weapon: The 038 AV Super Stihl

Before we get into the hacks, let’s talk about the star of the show: the 038 AV Super Stihl. This chainsaw, while not the newest model on the market, is a legend for a reason. It’s known for its power, reliability, and robust construction. It’s a machine that can handle serious work, from felling large trees to bucking firewood.

Key Specs:

• Engine Displacement: Approximately 61.5 cc
• Power Output: Around 4.1 hp (3.0 kW)
• Weight (without bar and chain): Roughly 15.4 lbs (7.0 kg)
• Guide Bar Length: Typically ranges from 16″ to 25″ (40 cm to 63 cm)

Why this matters: Knowing these specs helps you understand the limitations and capabilities of your saw. A longer bar, for example, is great for felling larger trees but can be unwieldy for smaller tasks. The power output dictates how quickly the saw can cut through different types of wood.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: This is a crucial distinction. “Green wood” is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or more). It’s heavier, harder to split, and burns poorly. “Seasoned wood” has been dried, typically for 6-12 months, reducing the moisture content to around 20% or less. Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to split, and burns much more efficiently.

Personal Story: I remember one winter trying to heat my cabin with green oak. It was a disaster! The wood smoked like crazy, produced very little heat, and coated my chimney with creosote. That was a painful lesson in the importance of seasoning.

Hack #1: Precision Felling: The Art of the Hinge

Felling a tree is arguably the most dangerous part of woodcutting. It requires careful planning, precise cuts, and a healthy dose of respect for the power of nature. The key to safe and controlled felling is understanding the hinge.

What is the Hinge? The hinge is a strip of uncut wood left between the felling cut and the back cut. It acts as a guide, controlling the direction in which the tree falls. The hinge should be about 80% of the diameter of the tree.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assess the Tree: Check for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the tree’s path (other trees, power lines, etc.). Clear a path of escape at a 45-degree angle away from the intended direction of fall.
2. The Undercut: This is a wedge-shaped cut on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut (about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter) and a sloping cut that meets the horizontal cut.
3. The Felling Cut: This cut is made from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the horizontal cut of the undercut.
4. Creating the Hinge: Leave a strip of uncut wood (the hinge) between the felling cut and the undercut. The width of the hinge should be about 80% of the diameter of the tree.
5. Driving Wedges (If Necessary): If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, drive plastic or wooden wedges into the felling cut to help push it over. Never use steel wedges, as they can damage your chain if you accidentally hit them.
6. The Back Cut: Once the tree starts to fall, move away quickly and safely along your escape path.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: 038 AV Super Stihl with a sharp chain appropriate for the tree size.
• Felling Axe: For driving wedges (if needed).
• Felling Wedges: Plastic or wooden. I prefer plastic wedges as they are less prone to splintering.
• Measuring Tape: To ensure accurate cuts.

Case Study: I once had to fell a leaning pine tree near a shed. The lean was towards the shed, making it a risky operation. I used a combination of a precise undercut, a strong hinge, and strategically placed wedges to guide the tree away from the shed. It fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage.

Benefits: This technique allows for controlled felling, minimizing the risk of damage to property or injury to yourself.

Strategic Advantage: Accurate felling reduces the amount of cleanup required and makes subsequent bucking easier.

Safety Considerations: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Be aware of your surroundings and never work alone.

Hack #2: The Bore Cut: Unlocking Trapped Timber

The bore cut is an advanced technique used to relieve tension in logs that are under compression. This often happens when a log is lying on the ground and its weight is causing it to bind the chain.

What is a Bore Cut? A bore cut involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar directly into the log to create a cut from the inside out. This relieves the tension and allows you to make a clean cut without pinching the bar.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assess the Log: Identify areas where the log is pinched or under tension. Look for cracks or splits that indicate stress.
2. Plunge Cut: With the chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the log at a slight angle. Use the bucking spikes to maintain control.
3. Open the Cut: Once the bar is fully inserted, carefully pivot the saw to open up the cut.
4. Complete the Cut: Continue cutting until you have relieved the tension and can make a clean cut through the log.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: 038 AV Super Stihl with a sharp chain. A shorter bar (16-18″) is often easier to control for bore cuts.
• Bucking Spikes: Essential for maintaining control during the plunge cut.

Case Study: I was once bucking a large oak log that was lying across a ditch. The weight of the log was causing it to pinch the chain every time I tried to cut through it. A bore cut relieved the tension, allowing me to finish the cut safely and efficiently.

Benefits: Prevents pinching and kickback, making bucking safer and easier.

Strategic Advantage: Reduces wear and tear on your chain and saw.

Safety Considerations: Bore cuts are inherently risky and should only be attempted by experienced chainsaw users. Be extremely careful to avoid kickback. Always use the bucking spikes to maintain control of the saw.

Technical Details: Kickback occurs when the upper tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with an object. This can cause the saw to violently kick back towards the operator. Bore cuts increase the risk of kickback because the tip of the bar is being used in a confined space.

Hack #3: The Importance of Chain Sharpening: A Sharp Chain is a Safe Chain

A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s also dangerous. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. A sharp chain, on the other hand, cuts smoothly and efficiently, reducing the risk of accidents.

Why Sharpen Your Chain?

• Increased Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back.
• Improved Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and requires less effort.
• Reduced Wear and Tear: A sharp chain puts less stress on the saw’s engine and components.
• Better Cut Quality: A sharp chain produces cleaner cuts.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain Sharpening:

1. Secure the Chainsaw: Clamp the chainsaw in a vise or use a stump vise to hold it securely.
2. Choose the Right File: Use a round file that is the correct size for your chain’s cutter teeth. The size is usually stamped on the chain itself, or consult your chainsaw’s manual.
3. Set the Filing Angle: Use a file guide to maintain the correct filing angle. The angle is typically around 25-30 degrees.
4. File Each Cutter Tooth: File each cutter tooth with smooth, consistent strokes, working from the inside of the tooth outwards. Maintain the same angle and pressure for each tooth.
5. Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (also known as rakers). If the depth gauges are too high, they will prevent the cutter teeth from biting into the wood. File the depth gauges down to the correct height.
6. Sharpen Every Tooth: Make sure to sharpen every tooth and keep them consistent.
7. Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain by making a few cuts in a piece of wood. The chain should cut smoothly and aggressively.

Tool Specifications:

• Round File: Correct size for your chain.
• File Guide: To maintain the correct filing angle.
• Depth Gauge Tool: To check and adjust the height of the depth gauges.
• Flat File: For filing the depth gauges.
• Vise or Stump Vise: To secure the chainsaw.

Personal Story: I once spent an entire day struggling to buck a pile of firewood with a dull chain. By the end of the day, I was exhausted and had barely made any progress. I finally realized that the chain was the problem. After sharpening the chain, I was able to finish the job in a fraction of the time with much less effort.

Benefits: Improves safety, efficiency, and cut quality.

Strategic Advantage: Extends the life of your chain and saw.

Safety Considerations: Wear gloves and eye protection when sharpening your chain. Be careful not to cut yourself with the file.

Technical Details: The correct filing angle and depth gauge height are crucial for optimal chain performance. Consult your chainsaw’s manual for specific recommendations.

Hack #4: The Hydraulic Log Splitter: Conquering the Toughest Wood

Splitting firewood by hand can be a back-breaking task, especially when dealing with tough or knotty wood. A hydraulic log splitter can significantly reduce the effort and time required to split firewood.

Why Use a Hydraulic Log Splitter?

• Reduced Physical Strain: Hydraulic log splitters do the work for you, eliminating the need for swinging an axe.
• Increased Efficiency: Hydraulic log splitters can split wood much faster than by hand.
• Greater Splitting Force: Hydraulic log splitters can split even the toughest wood with ease.
• Improved Safety: Hydraulic log splitters reduce the risk of injury from swinging an axe.

Types of Hydraulic Log Splitters:

• Electric Log Splitters: Powered by an electric motor, these are ideal for home use.
• Gas-Powered Log Splitters: Powered by a gasoline engine, these are more powerful and portable.
• Tractor-Mounted Log Splitters: These are attached to a tractor and are suitable for large-scale firewood production.

Choosing the Right Log Splitter:

Consider the size and type of wood you will be splitting, as well as your budget and space constraints. For most homeowners, an electric or gas-powered log splitter with a splitting force of 20-30 tons is sufficient.

Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Hydraulic Log Splitter:

1. Prepare the Log: Cut the log to the desired length.
2. Place the Log on the Splitter: Place the log on the splitter bed, ensuring that it is centered under the splitting wedge.
3. Engage the Splitter: Activate the splitter to push the log against the wedge.
4. Split the Log: Continue splitting the log until it is split into the desired pieces.
5. Repeat: Repeat the process for each log.

Tool Specifications:

• Hydraulic Log Splitter: Electric or gas-powered, with a splitting force of 20-30 tons.
• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Gloves: To protect your hands.
• Hearing Protection: If using a gas-powered log splitter.

Case Study: I used to spend weeks splitting firewood by hand every fall. It was exhausting and took a toll on my body. I finally invested in a hydraulic log splitter, and it has been a game-changer. I can now split a cord of wood in a few hours with minimal effort.

Benefits: Reduces physical strain, increases efficiency, and improves safety.

Strategic Advantage: Allows you to process more firewood in less time.

Safety Considerations: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when using a hydraulic log splitter. Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting wedge. Never operate the splitter under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Technical Details: The splitting force of a hydraulic log splitter is measured in tons. A higher splitting force is required for splitting tougher wood.

Hack #5: The Art of Stacking: Maximizing Space and Drying

Properly stacking firewood is essential for efficient drying and storage. A well-stacked woodpile allows for good air circulation, which helps to reduce the moisture content of the wood.

Why Stack Firewood?

• Improved Drying: Stacking firewood allows for better air circulation, which promotes faster drying.
• Space Optimization: Stacking firewood allows you to store more wood in a smaller space.
• Pest Control: Stacking firewood off the ground helps to prevent infestations of insects and rodents.
• Aesthetics: A well-stacked woodpile is visually appealing.

Stacking Methods:

• The Traditional Row: This is the simplest method, involving stacking rows of firewood side-by-side.
• The Holzhaufen (Round Stack): This is a more advanced method that creates a self-supporting, circular stack.
• The Swedish Wood Kiln: This method involves stacking firewood in a conical shape with a central chimney for optimal drying.

Step-by-Step Guide to Stacking Firewood:

1. Choose a Location: Select a sunny, well-ventilated location for your woodpile.
2. Create a Foundation: Build a foundation of pallets, cinder blocks, or scrap wood to keep the firewood off the ground.
3. Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in rows, leaving small gaps between the pieces for air circulation.
4. Cross-Stack the Ends: Cross-stack the ends of the woodpile to provide stability.
5. Cover the Top (Optional): Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or sheet of plywood to protect it from rain and snow.

Tool Specifications:

• Pallets, Cinder Blocks, or Scrap Wood: For creating a foundation.
• Tarp or Sheet of Plywood: For covering the top of the woodpile.
• Measuring Tape: To ensure consistent stacking.

Personal Story: I used to just dump my firewood in a pile in the backyard. It took forever to dry, and it was always infested with bugs. I finally learned the importance of proper stacking and now I have a neat, organized woodpile that dries quickly and stays pest-free.

Benefits: Improves drying, optimizes space, and controls pests.

Strategic Advantage: Ensures that you have a supply of dry, seasoned firewood when you need it.

Safety Considerations: Wear gloves when handling firewood to protect your hands from splinters. Be careful not to stack the woodpile too high, as it could topple over.

Technical Details: The ideal moisture content for firewood is around 20% or less. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood before burning it.

Next Steps: Putting These Hacks into Action

Now that you’ve learned these five pro woodcutting hacks, it’s time to put them into action. Start by practicing the felling and bucking techniques in a safe and controlled environment. Invest in a good chain sharpener and learn how to properly sharpen your chain. Consider purchasing a hydraulic log splitter to make splitting firewood easier and faster. And always remember to stack your firewood properly to ensure efficient drying and storage.

Woodworking is a rewarding skill that can provide you with a sense of accomplishment and self-sufficiency. By mastering these hacks and continuously learning and improving, you can become a true woodcutting pro. So, grab your 038 AV Super Stihl, put on your safety gear, and get to work! The forest is waiting.

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