021 Stihl Chainsaw Chain Replacement Tips (5 Pro Arborist Tricks)

“Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” – Abraham Lincoln

A dull chain on your Stihl 021 isn’t just frustrating; it’s dangerous and inefficient. This guide isn’t just about replacing your chain; it’s about optimizing your entire cutting experience. I’m going to walk you through replacing your chain and share some pro arborist tricks that will keep you cutting like a hot knife through butter.

The Current State of Wood Processing: A Global Perspective

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s take a quick look at the bigger picture. Globally, the wood processing and firewood industries are experiencing a fascinating shift. On one hand, demand for sustainable timber and firewood remains strong, driven by eco-conscious consumers and those seeking cost-effective heating solutions. On the other hand, we are also seeing a growing need for efficient and safe wood processing techniques.

According to recent reports, the global firewood market is projected to reach \$11.8 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 2.1% from 2020. This growth is fueled by rising energy costs and increased awareness of renewable energy sources. However, safety remains a major concern. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that chainsaws cause approximately 36,000 injuries each year, highlighting the critical need for proper training and maintenance.

This guide aims to bridge the gap between demand and safety, providing you with the knowledge and skills to process wood efficiently and responsibly.

Replacing Your Stihl 021 Chainsaw Chain: A Step-by-Step Guide

The Stihl 021 is a workhorse, a reliable saw for homeowners and even some pros. But like any tool, it needs maintenance. Replacing the chain is a regular task, and doing it right is crucial for safety and performance.

Understanding the Anatomy of Your Chainsaw Chain

Before we even touch a tool, let’s understand what we’re dealing with. A chainsaw chain isn’t just a loop of metal. It’s a complex assembly of components, each playing a vital role:

Cutters: These are the teeth that do the actual cutting. They come in various shapes and sizes, depending on the type of cutting you’ll be doing (e.g., ripping vs. crosscutting).
Tie Straps: These connect the cutters and drive links together, providing structural integrity.
Drive Links: These fit into the groove of the guide bar and are propelled around the bar by the sprocket. They also carry oil to lubricate the chain.
Depth Gauges (Rakers): These control the depth of the cut each cutter takes. They need to be properly filed to ensure efficient cutting.

Key Concept: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is crucial for choosing the right chain and technique.

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content. It’s easier to cut but harder to split and burns poorly.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried for several months to reduce moisture content. It’s harder to cut but easier to split and burns efficiently.

Cutting green wood requires a chain that can handle the higher moisture content, while seasoned wood demands a sharper, more aggressive chain.

Step 1: Gathering Your Tools and Materials

Safety first! Before you even think about touching that chainsaw, make sure you have the following:

New Chainsaw Chain: (Specific to Stihl 021. Check your manual for the correct size and type.)
Chainsaw Gloves: Heavy-duty gloves to protect your hands.
Wrench or Scrench: (Combination wrench and screwdriver tool commonly provided with the saw)
Screwdriver: (If your scrench doesn’t have the right size for tension adjustment)
Chain Brake Activating Tool: (A piece of wood or sturdy object to engage the chain brake)
Clean Rags: For wiping down the saw and bar.
Optional: Chain Vise: A small vise that clamps onto the bar to hold the chain in place while you work. This is especially helpful for sharpening but can also aid in chain replacement.

Personal Story: I remember one time, eager to get a head start on firewood, I skipped the gloves. A minor slip resulted in a nasty gash. Lesson learned: safety gear is non-negotiable.

Step 2: Disengaging the Chain Brake and Powering Down

This is where safety becomes paramount.

Engage the Chain Brake: Pull the chain brake lever back towards the handle until it clicks into place. This prevents the chain from moving accidentally.
Turn Off the Chainsaw: Ensure the chainsaw is completely off. Disconnect the spark plug wire for added safety. This prevents accidental starts.
Place the Chainsaw on a Stable Surface: Find a flat, stable surface to work on. This will make the process much easier and safer.

Step 3: Loosening the Bar Cover and Removing the Old Chain

Locate the Bar Cover: This is the plastic cover on the side of the chainsaw that protects the chain and bar.
Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use your wrench or scrench to loosen the bar nuts. Do not remove them completely yet.
Remove the Bar Cover: Once the bar nuts are loose, carefully remove the bar cover.
Inspect the Sprocket: Take a look at the sprocket (the toothed wheel that drives the chain). If it’s worn or damaged, now is the time to replace it. A worn sprocket can damage your new chain.
Remove the Old Chain: Carefully lift the old chain off the bar. Be mindful of the sharp cutters.

Step 4: Inspecting and Cleaning the Guide Bar

This is a crucial step often overlooked. A clean and properly maintained guide bar is essential for chain longevity and cutting performance.

Inspect the Guide Bar: Look for any signs of wear, such as burrs, unevenness, or damage to the rails (the grooves that the chain rides in).
Clean the Guide Bar: Use a clean rag to wipe down the guide bar, removing any dirt, sawdust, or oil.
Clean the Oil Holes: Locate the oil holes on the guide bar. These holes allow oil to lubricate the chain. Use a small wire or the tip of your scrench to clear any blockages.
Dress the Guide Bar (If Needed): If the guide bar has burrs or unevenness, use a guide bar dresser (a specialized tool for this purpose) to smooth the rails. This will ensure that the chain runs smoothly and evenly.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Service found that regular guide bar maintenance can extend chain life by up to 25%.

Step 5: Installing the New Chain

Position the Chain: Place the new chain around the guide bar, ensuring that the cutters are facing in the correct direction. The cutters should point forward in the direction of chain rotation.
Align the Drive Links: Make sure the drive links are properly seated in the groove of the guide bar.
Position the Guide Bar: Place the guide bar back onto the chainsaw, aligning the bar studs with the holes in the guide bar.
Wrap the Chain Around the Sprocket: Ensure the chain is properly engaged with the sprocket.
Reinstall the Bar Cover: Place the bar cover back onto the chainsaw.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight. Do not fully tighten them yet.

Step 6: Tensioning the Chain

Proper chain tension is critical. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it can overheat and break.

Locate the Chain Tensioning Screw: This is usually located on the side of the chainsaw, near the bar cover.
Adjust the Tension: Use your screwdriver to adjust the tensioning screw. The chain should be snug against the underside of the guide bar but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. You should be able to pull the chain away from the bar about 1/8 inch.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, fully tighten the bar nuts.
Check the Tension Again: After tightening the bar nuts, check the chain tension again to ensure it hasn’t changed.

Technical Requirement: The ideal chain tension will vary slightly depending on the type of chain and the type of wood you’re cutting. Consult your chainsaw manual for specific recommendations.

Step 7: Lubricating the Chain

Proper lubrication is essential for chain life and cutting performance.

Check the Oil Reservoir: Ensure that the oil reservoir is full.
Start the Chainsaw: Start the chainsaw and let it run for a few seconds.
Check for Oil Flow: Observe the chain to ensure that it is being properly lubricated. You should see a fine spray of oil coming off the chain as it rotates.

Troubleshooting: If you’re not seeing oil flow, check the oil pump and oil lines for blockages.

5 Pro Arborist Tricks for Maintaining Your Stihl 021 Chainsaw Chain

Replacing the chain is just the beginning. Here are five pro arborist tricks that will help you keep your chain in top condition and extend its life:

Trick #1: Sharpen Your Chain Regularly

A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and other accidents.

Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
Technique: Use a chainsaw file and guide to sharpen each cutter to the correct angle and depth.
Consistency: Ensure that all cutters are sharpened evenly. Uneven cutters will cause the chain to cut crookedly.

Real Example: I once worked with an arborist who sharpened his chain after every single cut! While that’s extreme, it highlights the importance of sharpness.

Trick #2: Adjust the Depth Gauges (Rakers)

The depth gauges (rakers) control the depth of the cut each cutter takes. If they are too high, the chain will not cut efficiently. If they are too low, the chain will grab and kick back.

Frequency: Check and adjust the depth gauges every few sharpenings.
Technique: Use a depth gauge tool and a flat file to lower the depth gauges to the correct height.
Consistency: Ensure that all depth gauges are adjusted evenly.

Trick #3: Rotate Your Guide Bar

The guide bar wears unevenly over time. Rotating the guide bar periodically will help to distribute the wear and extend its life.

Frequency: Rotate the guide bar every time you replace the chain.
Technique: Simply remove the guide bar and flip it over.

Trick #4: Clean Your Chainsaw Regularly

Sawdust and debris can accumulate in the chainsaw, causing it to overheat and malfunction.

Frequency: Clean your chainsaw after each use.
Technique: Use compressed air or a brush to remove sawdust and debris from the chainsaw. Pay particular attention to the air filter, cooling fins, and sprocket area.

Case Study: A study by a logging company found that regular cleaning of chainsaws reduced downtime by 15%.

Trick #5: Use the Right Oil

Using the wrong oil can damage your chainsaw and shorten its life.

Type: Use a high-quality chainsaw bar and chain oil.
Viscosity: Use the correct viscosity oil for the temperature conditions. In cold weather, use a thinner oil. In hot weather, use a thicker oil.
Bio-Oil: Consider using a bio-based chainsaw oil. These oils are environmentally friendly and provide excellent lubrication.

Actionable Tip: Always check your oil level before each use.

Firewood Preparation: From Forest to Fireplace

Now that we’ve covered chainsaw chain replacement and maintenance, let’s talk about firewood preparation. After all, what good is a perfectly running chainsaw if you don’t know how to turn logs into usable firewood?

Some species burn hotter, longer, and cleaner than others.

Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and ash are the best choices for firewood. They are dense, burn hot, and produce long-lasting coals.
Softwoods: Softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce burn quickly and produce a lot of smoke. They are best used for kindling or in outdoor fireplaces.

Data Point: Oak has a BTU rating of approximately 28 million per cord, while pine has a BTU rating of approximately 20 million per cord.

Felling Trees Safely

Felling trees is a dangerous task that should only be performed by experienced individuals.

Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards (e.g., power lines, other trees).
Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Make the Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch cut. Leave a hinge of wood to control the direction of the fall.
Use Wedges (If Necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use wedges to help guide its fall.
Yell “Timber!”: Before the tree falls, yell “Timber!” to warn anyone in the area.

Warning: Never fell a tree alone. Always have a spotter present.

De-Liming Procedures

De-limbing is the process of removing the branches from a felled tree.

Work from the Butt to the Top: Start at the butt of the tree and work your way towards the top.
Use a Chainsaw or Axe: Use a chainsaw or axe to remove the branches.
Cut Branches Flush with the Trunk: Cut the branches flush with the trunk to prevent tripping hazards.
Be Aware of Springback: Be aware of springback when cutting branches that are under tension.

Splitting Logs

Splitting logs is the process of dividing logs into smaller pieces for firewood.

Use a Splitting Maul or Hydraulic Splitter: Use a splitting maul or hydraulic splitter to split the logs.
Split Along the Grain: Split the logs along the grain to make the process easier.
Wear Safety Glasses: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Use a Tire (Optional): Place the log inside a tire to hold it in place while you split it.

Original Research: In my experience, a good hydraulic splitter can increase firewood production by up to 50% compared to using a splitting maul.

Seasoning Firewood

Seasoning is the process of drying firewood to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and produces less smoke.

Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up.
Elevate the Firewood: Elevate the firewood off the ground using pallets or skids.
Cover the Firewood (Optional): Cover the firewood with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
Allow Air Circulation: Allow for good air circulation around the firewood.
Season for at Least Six Months: Season the firewood for at least six months, or longer for hardwoods.

Technical Requirement: Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content.

Case Study: A study by the University of Maine found that firewood seasoned for one year had a 25% higher BTU rating than firewood seasoned for only three months.

Stacking Firewood for Optimal Drying

The way you stack your firewood directly impacts how quickly and effectively it dries.

Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: This promotes faster evaporation of moisture.
Elevate the Stack: Use pallets, scrap wood, or even gravel to keep the wood off the ground. This prevents moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Stack in a Single Row: This allows for maximum air circulation.
Leave Space Between Rows: If you have multiple rows, leave at least a foot of space between them for air to flow.
Criss-Cross the Ends: This creates a stable stack and further promotes air circulation.
Cover the Top (Optional): A tarp or some roofing material can protect the stack from rain and snow, but make sure the sides remain open for ventilation.

Budgeting Considerations: A good moisture meter can cost anywhere from \$30 to \$100. While it’s an investment, it can save you money in the long run by ensuring you’re burning properly seasoned wood.

Costs, Budgeting, and Resource Management

Wood processing and firewood preparation can be both a cost-effective way to heat your home and a rewarding hobby. However, it’s important to consider the costs involved and manage your resources wisely.

Chainsaw Costs: Chainsaws can range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars, depending on the size and features.
Safety Gear Costs: Safety gear, including gloves, chaps, and a helmet, can cost several hundred dollars.
Fuel and Oil Costs: Fuel and oil can add up over time, especially if you’re processing a lot of wood.
Maintenance Costs: Chainsaw maintenance, including chain sharpening and parts replacement, can cost several hundred dollars per year.
Wood Costs: If you’re not harvesting your own wood, you’ll need to purchase it. The cost of wood can vary depending on the species and location.

Resource Management Tips:

Harvest Wood Sustainably: If you’re harvesting your own wood, do so sustainably. Only harvest trees that are dead, dying, or posing a hazard.
Use Wood Waste: Use wood waste, such as branches and small pieces of wood, for kindling or other purposes.
Recycle Wood: Recycle wood whenever possible. Wood can be used for a variety of purposes, including mulch, compost, and building materials.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

Even with the best preparation, things can go wrong. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

Using a Dull Chain: A dull chain is dangerous and inefficient.
Improper Chain Tension: Improper chain tension can damage the chain and guide bar.
Neglecting Safety Gear: Neglecting safety gear can lead to serious injuries.
Felling Trees Unsafely: Felling trees unsafely can lead to property damage or death.
Splitting Logs Carelessly: Splitting logs carelessly can lead to injuries.
Seasoning Firewood Improperly: Seasoning firewood improperly can result in smoky fires and reduced heat output.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

Now that you have the knowledge and skills to replace your Stihl 021 chainsaw chain and prepare firewood like a pro, it’s time to put your skills into practice.

Practice Makes Perfect: The more you practice, the better you’ll become at wood processing and firewood preparation.
Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn more about safe chainsaw operation.
Join a Local Logging or Firewood Association: Join a local logging or firewood association to network with other professionals and learn about the latest industry trends.

Additional Resources:

Stihl Website: The Stihl website provides information about Stihl chainsaws, parts, and accessories.
Arbor Day Foundation: The Arbor Day Foundation provides information about tree planting and care.
Local Logging and Firewood Associations: Contact your local logging and firewood associations for information about local resources and training opportunities.

Suppliers of Logging Tools:

Bailey’s: Bailey’s is a leading supplier of logging tools and equipment.
Northern Tool + Equipment: Northern Tool + Equipment is a supplier of a wide range of tools and equipment, including logging tools.

Drying Equipment Rental Services:

Sunbelt Rentals: Sunbelt Rentals is a national rental company that offers a variety of equipment, including drying equipment.
Local Rental Companies: Check with local rental companies for drying equipment rentals.

I hope this guide has been helpful. Remember, safety is always the top priority. With the right knowledge, skills, and equipment, you can enjoy the satisfaction of processing wood and preparing firewood safely and efficiently. Now, go out there and make some sawdust!