Stihl 039 Chainsaw Tips for Firewood Cutting (5 Expert Hacks)

I remember the first time I tried to cut firewood with a dull chainsaw. It was an old, hand-me-down machine, not a Stihl 039, but the frustration was the same. The bar was smoking, the wood was barely budging, and I was pretty sure I was doing more damage to the log than actually cutting it.

The Stihl 039 is a workhorse, a chainsaw that many swear by for its power and reliability. But even a great chainsaw needs the right approach to maximize its potential. Over the years, I’ve developed a few “hacks” that have drastically improved my firewood cutting efficiency and safety with the 039. These aren’t just random tips; they’re based on practical experience, a bit of engineering knowledge, and a healthy respect for the power of a chainsaw. So, let’s dive into my top 5 expert hacks for getting the most out of your Stihl 039 when cutting firewood, complete with the technical details you need to get the job done right.

Maximizing Your Stihl 039 for Firewood: 5 Expert Hacks

Hack 1: Chain Sharpening – The Key to Efficient Cutting

The most crucial element of efficient firewood cutting, no matter what chainsaw you’re using, is a sharp chain. A dull chain forces the saw to work harder, leading to increased wear and tear on the engine, bar, and chain itself. It also significantly increases the risk of kickback, a dangerous situation where the saw suddenly jumps back towards the operator.

Why Sharpening Matters:

• Reduced Cutting Time: A sharp chain slices through wood quickly and efficiently, saving you time and energy.
• Improved Fuel Efficiency: Less force is required to cut, reducing fuel consumption.
• Enhanced Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kickback, reducing the risk of injury.
• Prolonged Chainsaw Life: Reduced strain on the engine and other components prolongs the life of your Stihl 039.

Sharpening Techniques:

I prefer to sharpen my chains manually using a round file and a file guide. This gives me the most control and allows me to maintain the correct angles and depth.

• File Size: For the Stihl 039, which typically uses a 3/8″ chain, I recommend a 5/32″ (4.0 mm) round file.
• Filing Angle: Maintain a consistent filing angle of 30 degrees for the top plate and 10 degrees for the depth gauge (raker). The exact angles may vary slightly depending on the specific chain type, so always refer to the chain manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Depth Gauge Adjustment: After sharpening, check the depth gauges (rakers). These should be filed down slightly lower than the cutting teeth to prevent the chain from grabbing and kicking back. A good rule of thumb is to file the depth gauges down by 0.025 inches (0.635 mm) using a flat file and a depth gauge tool.
• Consistency is Key: File each tooth evenly, using the same number of strokes and maintaining the same angle. This ensures that all the teeth are cutting at the same depth and angle.
• Checking Sharpness: A properly sharpened chain will pull itself into the wood with minimal pressure. If you have to force the saw, the chain is likely still dull.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Engineering Research Institute of Canada (FERIC) found that using a properly sharpened chain can increase chainsaw productivity by as much as 20% and reduce fuel consumption by 10%.

Practical Example: I once worked on a project clearing a large area of oak trees for a new construction site. The contractor was using a dull chain, and it was taking him twice as long to fell each tree. After I sharpened his chain and adjusted the depth gauges, his productivity increased dramatically, and he was able to finish the job ahead of schedule.

Tool Requirements:

• Round file (5/32″ or 4.0 mm for 3/8″ chain)
• File guide
• Flat file
• Depth gauge tool
• Vise or chain holder

Personal Story: I remember one time, I was cutting firewood in freezing temperatures. The wood was frozen solid, and my chain was dulling quickly. I didn’t have my sharpening tools with me, so I tried to tough it out. Big mistake! The saw was bogging down, the chain was smoking, and I was exhausted. Finally, I gave up and drove back home to get my sharpening kit. After a quick sharpening session, the saw cut through the frozen wood like butter. Lesson learned: never underestimate the importance of a sharp chain, especially in challenging conditions.

Hack 2: Mastering the Felling Cut – Precision for Safety and Efficiency

Felling trees safely and efficiently is crucial when harvesting firewood. A poorly executed felling cut can result in a tree falling in the wrong direction, damaging property, or even causing serious injury.

Understanding the Felling Cut:

The felling cut consists of three main components:

• The Notch (Undercut): This determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut at a 45-degree angle, with the bottom cut going in about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter and the top cut meeting the bottom cut precisely.
• The Hinge: This is a strip of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from kicking back or twisting. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
• The Back Cut: This is the final cut that severs the tree. It should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch, leaving the hinge intact.

Felling Techniques:

• Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles that could affect its fall.
• Plan Your Escape Route: Always have a clear escape route planned before starting the felling cut. The escape route should be at a 45-degree angle away from the expected direction of the fall.
• Use Wedges: For larger trees, use felling wedges to help direct the fall and prevent the saw from binding. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a hammer.
• Communicate with Others: If you are working with others, make sure everyone is aware of your intentions and stays clear of the felling area.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), improper felling techniques are a leading cause of chainsaw-related injuries in the logging industry.

Practical Example: I was once helping a friend fell a large pine tree in his backyard. He was inexperienced and didn’t properly assess the tree’s lean. As a result, the tree fell in the opposite direction of where he intended, narrowly missing his house. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but it was a close call.

Specifications and Technical Requirements:

• Notch Angle: 45 degrees
• Notch Depth: 1/3 of the tree’s diameter
• Hinge Width: 1/10 of the tree’s diameter
• Minimum Escape Route Distance: 2 tree lengths

Safety Codes:

• Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Never fell a tree alone.
• Always be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.

Personal Story: I had one memorable experience where I underestimated the wind’s impact while felling a sizable oak. I made my notch and back cut perfectly, but a sudden gust of wind caught the tree as it started to fall. It veered slightly off course, landing closer to a fence than I had anticipated. Thankfully, no damage was done, but it was a stark reminder that nature always has the final say. Since then, I’ve always made it a point to double-check the weather conditions and adjust my felling plan accordingly.

Hack 3: Optimizing Bar and Chain Maintenance – Extending the Life of Your Equipment

Proper bar and chain maintenance is essential for maximizing the performance and lifespan of your Stihl 039. Neglecting these components can lead to premature wear, reduced cutting efficiency, and increased risk of accidents.

Bar Maintenance:

• Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove and oil holes with a scraper and wire brush. This ensures proper lubrication and prevents the chain from binding.
• Filing: Check the bar rails for burrs and wear. Use a flat file to remove any burrs and restore the rails to their original shape.
• Bar Rotation: Rotate the bar regularly to distribute wear evenly. This will prolong its life and prevent it from becoming warped or bent.
• Checking for Wear: Inspect the bar for signs of wear, such as excessive grooves or a rounded nose. Replace the bar when it becomes worn or damaged.

Chain Maintenance:

• Sharpening: As discussed in Hack 1, keep the chain sharp at all times.
• Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated. This reduces friction and wear, and prevents the chain from overheating.
• Tensioning: Check the chain tension regularly. The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
• Cleaning: Clean the chain regularly with a solvent to remove dirt, sawdust, and pitch.

Data Point: A study by Oregon Tool found that proper bar and chain maintenance can extend the life of these components by as much as 50%.

Practical Example: I once had a customer who complained that his chainsaw was constantly overheating and the chain was wearing out prematurely. After inspecting his saw, I discovered that he had never cleaned the bar groove or oil holes. As a result, the chain was not being properly lubricated, leading to excessive friction and wear. After I cleaned the bar and showed him how to properly maintain it, his problems disappeared.

Specifications and Technical Requirements:

• Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil with a viscosity of SAE 30 or ISO VG 100.
• Chain Tension: The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
• Bar Rail Wear Limit: The bar rails should not be worn more than 0.020 inches (0.5 mm).

Tool Requirements:

• Scraper
• Wire brush
• Flat file
• Bar and chain oil
• Solvent
• Chain tensioning wrench

Personal Story: I recall a time when I was cutting some very resinous pine, and I neglected to clean my chainsaw bar and chain afterward. The resin hardened, clogging the oiler and making the chain run dry. The friction generated a lot of heat, and I ended up damaging the chain. It was a costly mistake that taught me the importance of cleaning my equipment, especially after working with sticky woods. Now, I always keep a can of solvent handy and make it a habit to clean my chainsaw thoroughly after each use.

Hack 4: Wood Selection and Preparation – Choosing the Right Wood for Efficient Cutting

The type of wood you’re cutting and how it’s prepared can significantly impact your firewood cutting efficiency and the lifespan of your Stihl 039.

Wood Selection:

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and birch, are denser and burn longer than softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce. However, hardwoods are also more difficult to cut.
• Seasoned vs. Green Wood: Seasoned wood has been dried for at least six months and is much easier to cut than green wood, which is still full of moisture.
• Knotty Wood: Avoid cutting wood with excessive knots, as these can be difficult to cut and increase the risk of kickback.

Wood Preparation:

• Bucking: Bucking is the process of cutting logs into shorter lengths for firewood. Buck logs into lengths that are appropriate for your wood stove or fireplace.
• Splitting: Splitting wood makes it easier to dry and burn. Split wood along the grain using a splitting axe or maul.
• Stacking: Stack firewood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry properly.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Department of Energy, seasoned firewood has a moisture content of 20% or less and produces 25% more heat than green firewood.

Practical Example: I once tried to cut a large pile of green oak logs without letting them season first. The saw was constantly bogging down, the chain was dulling quickly, and I was exhausted. After I let the logs season for six months, they were much easier to cut, and I was able to finish the job in half the time.

Specifications and Technical Requirements:

• Firewood Length: Typically 16-24 inches (40-60 cm)
• Moisture Content: Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
• Stacking Method: Stack firewood in a crisscross pattern to promote air circulation.

Personal Story: I recall one winter when I was desperate for firewood, and I decided to cut down a standing dead tree in my backyard. I thought it would be dry and easy to cut, but I was wrong. The tree was rotten on the inside, and the wood was soft and punky. The chainsaw kept getting stuck, and the wood was crumbling apart. It was a frustrating and messy experience. I learned that just because a tree is dead doesn’t mean it’s good firewood. Always inspect the wood carefully before cutting it.

Hack 5: Mastering the Bore Cut – A Technique for Avoiding Pinching and Kickback

The bore cut is an advanced technique that can be used to avoid pinching and kickback when cutting large logs. It involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood and then cutting outwards.

Understanding the Bore Cut:

• Reduced Pinching: The bore cut allows you to cut through the center of a log without pinching the bar.
• Kickback Prevention: By keeping the tip of the bar buried in the wood, you reduce the risk of kickback.
• Controlled Cutting: The bore cut allows you to control the direction of the cut more precisely.

Bore Cutting Techniques:

• Safety First: The bore cut is a dangerous technique that should only be attempted by experienced chainsaw operators. Always wear appropriate PPE and be aware of your surroundings.
• Proper Positioning: Position yourself so that you are stable and have a good grip on the chainsaw.
• Plunging the Bar: Slowly and carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the wood at a slight angle.
• Cutting Outwards: Once the bar is fully plunged, begin cutting outwards, using a smooth and controlled motion.
• Avoiding the Tip: Be careful not to let the tip of the bar come into contact with any obstacles, as this can cause kickback.

Data Point: According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), kickback is a leading cause of chainsaw-related injuries.

Practical Example: I was once cutting a large oak log that was lying on the ground. The log was so heavy that it was pinching the bar of my chainsaw, making it difficult to cut through. I decided to use the bore cut to avoid the pinching. I carefully plunged the tip of the bar into the wood and then cut outwards. The bore cut allowed me to cut through the log without any pinching or kickback.

Safety Codes:

• Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
• Never attempt the bore cut if you are not experienced with chainsaw operation.
• Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.

Personal Story: There was this one time when I was cutting a very large, fallen tree trunk that was partially buried in the ground. The weight of the trunk was causing the chainsaw bar to pinch constantly, making it almost impossible to cut. I tried using wedges, but they weren’t enough to relieve the pressure. That’s when I decided to use the bore cut. It was a bit nerve-wracking at first, but I took my time and followed all the safety precautions. The bore cut worked like a charm, allowing me to cut through the trunk without any further pinching. It was a real game-changer!

Tool Requirements:

• Stihl 039 Chainsaw
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
• Felling wedges (optional)

Conclusion

Mastering these five hacks can significantly improve your firewood cutting experience with a Stihl 039 chainsaw. Remember, safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate PPE, maintain your equipment properly, and be aware of your surroundings. With practice and patience, you can become a skilled and efficient firewood cutter, making the most of your Stihl 039 and enjoying the warmth and satisfaction of a well-stocked woodpile.

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