Rick vs Cord of Wood: What’s the Real Difference? (Firewood Lingo Explained)

Let’s face it, buying firewood can feel like navigating a minefield. One person’s “rick” is another’s “face cord,” and figuring out if you’re getting a fair deal can be a real headache. The goal here is to demystify the lingo, give you the knowledge you need to confidently purchase firewood, and ensure you’re getting the most bang for your buck.

Global Trends in Firewood Consumption and the Need for Clarity

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s take a quick look at the bigger picture. Globally, firewood remains a significant energy source, particularly in colder climates and developing nations. According to a recent report by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations, approximately 2.4 billion people worldwide rely on wood for cooking and heating. While the use of firewood may be declining in some developed countries due to the availability of alternative fuels, it’s still a vital resource for many, and its demand is surprisingly resilient, even in areas with access to natural gas or electricity.

In the United States and Europe, we see a slightly different trend. While firewood isn’t the primary heating source for most households, its use for recreational purposes, such as fireplaces and wood-burning stoves, is on the rise. This is driven by a desire for ambiance, energy independence, and, in some cases, a more sustainable heating option. The U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) estimates that around 12 million households in the United States use wood as a primary or secondary heating source. In Europe, the numbers are similarly significant, with countries like Sweden and Finland having a long tradition of wood heating.

This widespread use of firewood underscores the importance of understanding how it’s measured and sold. Clear communication between buyers and sellers is crucial to ensure fair transactions and prevent misunderstandings. Misunderstandings that can lead to you feeling like you are pulling teeth to get a straight answer from a seller. That’s where knowing the difference between a rick, cord, and face cord comes in.

Rick vs. Cord of Wood: What’s the Real Difference? (Firewood Lingo Explained)

Alright, let’s get down to brass tacks. What exactly is the difference between a rick and a cord of wood? The answer, unfortunately, isn’t always straightforward.

Defining the Cord: The Gold Standard

The term “cord” is the standard unit of measurement for firewood. It’s legally defined and represents a specific volume.

• What it is: A cord is a precisely measured stack of wood that is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long.
• Volume: This equates to 128 cubic feet of wood, including the air space between the logs.
• Why it matters: Because it’s a standardized unit, a cord provides a reliable benchmark for comparing prices and ensuring you’re getting the quantity you expect.

Think of a cord as the “gallon” of firewood. It’s the unit everyone should be using for consistent measurement.

Demystifying the Rick (or Face Cord): The Variable Villain

Here’s where things get tricky. The term “rick” (also sometimes called a “face cord” or “fireplace cord”) is not a standardized unit of measurement.

• What it is: A rick is a stack of wood that is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the depth (the length of the individual pieces of wood) can vary.
• Volume: This is the key point. Because the depth can change, the total volume of a rick is not fixed. It depends entirely on the length of the firewood pieces.
• Why it’s confusing: The lack of standardization makes it difficult to compare prices or accurately assess the amount of wood you’re getting. One person’s rick could be significantly smaller (or larger) than another’s.

The length of the wood in a rick is the variable. If the wood is 16 inches long, then the rick is one-third of a cord. If the wood is 12 inches long, the rick is one-quarter of a cord.

My Personal Experience with Firewood Measurement Mishaps

I’ve been working with wood for over 20 years, and I’ve seen my fair share of firewood measurement mishaps. One time, I ordered what I thought was a “rick” of wood from a local supplier. When it arrived, the stack looked significantly smaller than I expected. I measured it and discovered that the wood pieces were only 12 inches long. What I thought was a rick was actually only a quarter of a cord!

This experience taught me a valuable lesson: always clarify the dimensions of a rick before you buy. Don’t be afraid to ask the seller for the length of the wood pieces.

Key Differences Summarized

To make it crystal clear, let’s summarize the key differences between a cord and a rick:

Why the Confusion Persists

So, why do people still use the term “rick” if it’s so confusing? There are a few reasons:

• Regional variations: In some areas, the term “rick” is deeply ingrained in local culture and tradition. It’s simply the way firewood has always been sold.
• Convenience: For sellers, offering wood in ricks can be more convenient than precisely measuring out full cords.
• Smaller quantities: Some buyers only need a small amount of firewood, and a rick might seem like a more manageable option than a full cord.

However, even if these factors are in play, it’s still crucial to understand the actual volume of wood you’re getting, regardless of what it’s called.

Converting Between Ricks and Cords: A Practical Guide

Now that we understand the difference between a cord and a rick, let’s talk about how to convert between the two. This is essential for comparing prices and making informed purchasing decisions.

The Basic Conversion Formula

The conversion formula is based on the length of the wood pieces in the rick:

Number of ricks in a cord = 48 inches / Length of wood pieces (in inches)

Let’s break this down with some examples:

• Example 1: If the wood pieces in the rick are 16 inches long, then there are 48 inches / 16 inches = 3 ricks in a cord.
• Example 2: If the wood pieces in the rick are 12 inches long, then there are 48 inches / 12 inches = 4 ricks in a cord.
• Example 3: If the wood pieces in the rick are 24 inches long, then there are 48 inches / 24 inches = 2 ricks in a cord.

Practical Examples and Scenarios

Let’s apply this formula to some real-world scenarios:

• Scenario 1: You’re quoted a price of $200 for a rick of wood with 16-inch pieces. A full cord would cost $550. Is this a good deal?

  • Solution: Since there are 3 ricks in a cord when the wood is 16 inches long, the cost of a full cord based on the rick price would be $200 x 3 = $600. Therefore, the full cord price of $550 is a better deal.

  • Scenario 2: You’re quoted a price of $150 for a rick of wood with 12-inch pieces. A full cord costs $500. Is this a good deal?

  • Solution: Since there are 4 ricks in a cord when the wood is 12 inches long, the cost of a full cord based on the rick price would be $150 x 4 = $600. Therefore, the full cord price of $500 is a better deal.

  • Scenario 3: You need 1/2 a cord of wood. You’re quoted a price of $100 for a rick with 24-inch pieces. Is this enough wood?

  • Solution: Since there are 2 ricks in a cord when the wood is 24 inches long, 1 rick is 1/2 cord. Therefore, the rick will meet your needs.

Tips for Accurate Conversion

To ensure accurate conversion, keep these tips in mind:

• Always ask for the length: Don’t assume the length of the wood pieces. Always ask the seller to specify the length in inches.
• Measure if necessary: If you’re unsure, bring a tape measure and measure a few pieces of wood yourself.
• Do the math: Use the formula to calculate the equivalent volume in cords.
• Compare prices: Compare the price per cord based on different rick sizes to find the best deal.
• Consider wood type: Prices can be affected by the type of wood, so make sure you are making an apples-to-apples comparison.

Selecting the Right Wood Species for Firewood

The type of wood you burn significantly impacts its heat output, burn time, and the amount of smoke and creosote produced.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: The Fundamental Difference

The primary distinction is between hardwoods and softwoods:

• Hardwoods: These are generally denser and heavier than softwoods. They burn hotter, longer, and produce less smoke and creosote. Examples include oak, maple, ash, birch, and beech.
• Softwoods: These are typically less dense and lighter. They burn faster, produce more smoke and creosote, and are better suited for kindling or starting fires. Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar.

Data Point: Hardwoods, on average, contain about 40% more energy per cord than softwoods. This means you’ll need to burn significantly less hardwood to achieve the same amount of heat.

BTU Ratings: Quantifying Heat Output

BTU (British Thermal Unit) is a measure of the heat content of wood. The higher the BTU rating, the more heat the wood will produce when burned.

Here’s a table of common firewood species and their approximate BTU ratings per cord:

Important Note: These are approximate values, and the actual BTU rating can vary depending on the moisture content and density of the wood.

Specific Wood Species and Their Characteristics

Let’s take a closer look at some specific wood species and their suitability for firewood:

• Oak: Considered one of the best firewood choices. It’s dense, burns hot and long, and produces relatively little smoke. However, it can be difficult to split and takes a long time to season.
• Maple: Another excellent choice. It burns hot and long, is easier to split than oak, and seasons relatively quickly.
• Ash: A good all-around firewood. It splits easily, seasons quickly, and burns with a steady flame.
• Birch: Burns well, but it can produce more smoke than other hardwoods. It’s also prone to rotting if not properly stored.
• Beech: A top-notch firewood. It burns hot and long, and produces very little smoke.
• Pine: A softwood that burns quickly and produces a lot of smoke and creosote. Best used for kindling or starting fires.
• Fir: Similar to pine in its burning characteristics.
• Spruce: Another softwood that’s best used for kindling.
• Cedar: Produces a pleasant aroma when burned, but it’s not a good choice for heating due to its low BTU rating and high smoke production.

My Personal Recommendation: If you have access to it, oak is my top choice for firewood. It’s worth the extra effort to split and season because it provides exceptional heat and burn time. Maple and ash are also excellent alternatives.

Avoiding Problematic Wood Species

Some wood species should be avoided for firewood due to their undesirable burning characteristics:

• Poison ivy: Burning poison ivy can release irritant oils into the air, causing severe allergic reactions.
• Green wood: Burning unseasoned wood produces excessive smoke and creosote.
• Treated wood: Burning treated wood releases toxic chemicals into the air.
• Painted wood: Burning painted wood also releases toxic chemicals.

Important Safety Tip: Never burn wood that you’re unsure about. If in doubt, throw it out.

Seasoning Firewood: The Key to Efficient Burning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. This is crucial for efficient burning and minimizing smoke and creosote production.

Why Seasoning Matters

• Higher heat output: Dry wood burns hotter and more efficiently than green wood.
• Less smoke: Seasoned wood produces significantly less smoke, making it more environmentally friendly and reducing the risk of chimney fires.
• Reduced creosote: Creosote is a flammable substance that can build up in your chimney and cause dangerous chimney fires. Burning seasoned wood minimizes creosote production.
• Easier to ignite: Dry wood is much easier to light than green wood.

Data Point: Green wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher, while seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

The Seasoning Process: Step-by-Step

Here’s a step-by-step guide to seasoning firewood:

1. Split the wood: Splitting the wood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry faster.
2. Stack the wood: Stack the wood in a single row, elevated off the ground to allow for air circulation.
3. Choose a sunny and windy location: Sunlight and wind help to evaporate moisture from the wood.
4. Cover the top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
5. Wait: Allow the wood to season for at least 6-12 months, depending on the species and climate.

Determining Moisture Content: The Moisture Meter

The best way to determine if your firewood is properly seasoned is to use a moisture meter. This is a small, handheld device that measures the moisture content of wood.

• How to use it: Simply insert the probes of the moisture meter into a freshly split piece of wood.
• Target moisture content: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.

My Personal Tip: Invest in a good quality moisture meter. It’s an invaluable tool for ensuring that your firewood is properly seasoned.

Signs of Properly Seasoned Firewood

Even without a moisture meter, there are several visual and tactile signs that indicate properly seasoned firewood:

• Cracks in the end grain: Seasoned wood will typically have cracks in the end grain.
• Grayish color: The wood will have a grayish or weathered appearance.
• Lighter weight: Seasoned wood will be significantly lighter than green wood.
• Hollow sound: When you strike two pieces of seasoned wood together, they will produce a hollow sound.

Storing Seasoned Firewood

Once your firewood is properly seasoned, it’s important to store it properly to prevent it from reabsorbing moisture.

• Keep it off the ground: Elevate the wood on pallets or cinder blocks to prevent ground moisture from seeping in.
• Cover the top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
• Allow for ventilation: Ensure that the sides of the stack are open for ventilation.
• Store away from buildings: Store the wood away from buildings to prevent insect infestations and reduce the risk of fire.

Tools of the Trade: Chainsaws, Axes, and More

Preparing firewood requires the right tools. Let’s take a look at some essential tools and their uses.

Chainsaws: The Powerhouse of Firewood Preparation

A chainsaw is an essential tool for felling trees, bucking logs, and cutting firewood to size.

• Types of chainsaws: There are gas-powered, electric, and battery-powered chainsaws. Gas-powered chainsaws are the most powerful and versatile, but electric and battery-powered chainsaws are quieter and easier to maintain.
• Choosing the right chainsaw: Consider the size of the trees you’ll be felling and the amount of firewood you’ll be cutting. For small to medium-sized trees and occasional firewood cutting, a 16-18 inch chainsaw is sufficient. For larger trees and more frequent use, a 20-inch or larger chainsaw is recommended.
• Safety gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.

Case Study: I recently helped a friend choose a new chainsaw for his firewood business. After considering his needs and budget, we settled on a Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss. This chainsaw is powerful, reliable, and easy to maintain. He’s been very happy with its performance.

Axes and Splitting Mauls: The Traditional Choice

Axes and splitting mauls are used for splitting logs into smaller pieces.

• Types of axes: There are felling axes (for felling trees), splitting axes (for splitting logs), and hatchets (for smaller tasks).
• Splitting mauls: These are heavier than axes and are designed specifically for splitting logs. They have a wedge-shaped head that helps to force the wood apart.
• Choosing the right axe or maul: Consider the size and type of wood you’ll be splitting. For small to medium-sized logs, a splitting axe is sufficient. For larger, tougher logs, a splitting maul is recommended.

Log Splitters: The Effortless Option

Log splitters are hydraulic machines that make splitting logs much easier and faster.

• Types of log splitters: There are electric, gas-powered, and manual log splitters. Electric log splitters are quieter and more environmentally friendly, but gas-powered log splitters are more powerful.
• Choosing the right log splitter: Consider the size and type of logs you’ll be splitting. For small to medium-sized logs, a 20-ton log splitter is sufficient. For larger, tougher logs, a 30-ton or larger log splitter is recommended.

Other Essential Tools

In addition to chainsaws, axes, and log splitters, here are some other essential tools for firewood preparation:

• Measuring tape: For measuring the length of wood pieces.
• Chainsaw sharpener: For keeping your chainsaw blade sharp.
• Wedges: For splitting particularly tough logs.
• Sledgehammer: For driving wedges.
• Gloves: For protecting your hands.
• Eye protection: For protecting your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing protection: For protecting your ears from the noise of chainsaws and log splitters.
• First-aid kit: For treating minor injuries.

Safety First: Minimizing Risks in Firewood Preparation

Firewood preparation can be a dangerous activity if proper safety precautions are not taken.

Chainsaw Safety

• Read the manual: Familiarize yourself with the operating instructions for your chainsaw.
• Wear safety gear: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
• Inspect the chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or wear.
• Start the chainsaw safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground or on a stable surface.
• Use proper cutting techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
• Never cut above your head: Cutting above your head is extremely dangerous.
• Keep a safe distance: Keep a safe distance from other people when operating a chainsaw.
• Never work alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.

Axe and Splitting Maul Safety

• Wear safety gear: Always wear eye protection and gloves.
• Choose a stable surface: Split logs on a stable surface, such as a stump or a splitting block.
• Use proper technique: Use proper technique to avoid injuring yourself or others.
• Keep a safe distance: Keep a safe distance from other people when splitting logs.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for tripping hazards.

Log Splitter Safety

• Read the manual: Familiarize yourself with the operating instructions for your log splitter.
• Wear safety gear: Always wear eye protection and gloves.
• Keep hands clear: Keep your hands clear of the splitting wedge and the log.
• Never operate the log splitter alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for tripping hazards.

Important Safety Reminder: Safety should always be your top priority when preparing firewood. Take the time to learn proper techniques and use the right safety gear.

Cost Considerations: Budgeting for Firewood Preparation

Preparing firewood can be a cost-effective way to heat your home, but it’s important to consider the costs involved.

Tool Costs

• Chainsaw: $200-$1000+
• Axe or splitting maul: $50-$200
• Log splitter: $500-$3000+
• Moisture meter: $20-$100
• Safety gear: $50-$200

Fuel and Maintenance Costs

• Gasoline: For gas-powered chainsaws and log splitters.
• Chain oil: For lubricating chainsaw chains.
• Bar oil: For lubricating chainsaw bars.
• Sharpening: For sharpening chainsaw blades and axes.
• Repairs: For repairing damaged tools.

Time and Labor Costs

• Felling trees: This can be time-consuming and labor-intensive.
• Bucking logs: Cutting logs into smaller pieces.
• Splitting logs: Splitting logs into firewood.
• Stacking firewood: Stacking firewood for seasoning.
• Moving firewood: Moving firewood to your storage location.

Buying vs. Preparing Your Own Firewood

Consider the costs involved in preparing your own firewood compared to buying it from a supplier. In some cases, it may be more cost-effective to buy firewood, especially if you don’t have the time, equipment, or physical ability to prepare it yourself.

My Personal Advice: Start small. If you’re new to firewood preparation, start with a small project and gradually increase your scale as you gain experience and confidence.

Troubleshooting Common Firewood Preparation Problems

Even with careful planning and preparation, you may encounter problems when preparing firewood. Here are some common problems and how to troubleshoot them:

Difficult-to-Split Logs

• Problem: Some logs are simply too tough to split with an axe or maul.
• Solution: Use wedges and a sledgehammer to split the log. Drive the wedges into the cracks in the wood and hammer them until the log splits. Alternatively, use a log splitter.

Chainsaw Kickback

• Problem: Chainsaw kickback occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar contacts an object, causing the chainsaw to suddenly jump back towards the operator.
• Solution: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback. Always keep the tip of the chainsaw bar away from objects. Use a chainsaw with a chain brake.

Firewood Not Seasoning Properly

• Problem: Firewood is not seasoning properly and remains damp after several months.
• Solution: Ensure that the firewood is stacked properly with adequate air circulation. Choose a sunny and windy location for seasoning. Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Insect Infestations

• Problem: Firewood becomes infested with insects, such as termites or carpenter ants.
• Solution: Store firewood away from buildings to prevent insect infestations. Remove any infested wood from your property. Consider using a pesticide to treat the wood.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

Now that you have a solid understanding of firewood lingo, wood species, seasoning techniques, and safety precautions, you’re well-equipped to tackle your own firewood preparation projects.

Finding Firewood Suppliers

• Local firewood dealers: Search online for local firewood dealers in your area.
• Tree service companies: Tree service companies often sell firewood.
• Logging companies: Logging companies may sell firewood or logs.
• Online marketplaces: Online marketplaces, such as Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, can be a good source of firewood.

Renting or Buying Equipment

• Tool rental companies: Tool rental companies rent chainsaws, log splitters, and other equipment.
• Hardware stores: Hardware stores sell chainsaws, axes, and other tools.
• Online retailers: Online retailers, such as Amazon and eBay, sell a wide variety of firewood preparation equipment.

Additional Resources

• Local forestry agencies: Local forestry agencies can provide information on sustainable firewood harvesting practices.
• University extension services: University extension services offer educational programs on firewood preparation and wood burning.
• Online forums and communities: Online forums and communities dedicated to firewood preparation can provide valuable tips and advice.

Final Thoughts

Preparing your own firewood can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to heat your home. By understanding the lingo, choosing the right wood species, seasoning it properly, and following safety precautions, you can enjoy the warmth and ambiance of a wood-burning fire all winter long. Remember, knowledge is power, and with the information in this guide, you’re well-equipped to make informed decisions and get the most out of your firewood. Now, get out there and start stacking!

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