Husqvarna 435 Chainsaw Bar Guide (5 Expert Tips for Farm Use)
Transforming Your Farm with the Husqvarna 435: A Guide to Chainsaw Mastery
For years, I’ve lived and breathed the scent of sawdust and the roar of engines. From managing small-scale forestry projects to helping neighbors clear storm damage, I’ve seen firsthand how a reliable chainsaw can transform a farm. The Husqvarna 435, in particular, has earned a solid reputation for its power, ease of use, and reliability. It’s a workhorse, but like any tool, it needs proper care and understanding to truly shine. This guide isn’t just about using a chainsaw; it’s about mastering it to unlock its full potential for your farm.
I remember when I first started, I was intimidated by the chainsaw. I made mistakes, got frustrated, and even had a few close calls. But with experience and a commitment to safety, I learned to appreciate the power and precision these machines offer. This guide is designed to help you avoid those early pitfalls and become a confident and skilled chainsaw operator.
We’ll delve into specific techniques, focusing on practical applications you can immediately use on your farm. We’ll cover everything from understanding the chainsaw bar and chain to felling small trees, limbing branches, and preparing firewood. I’ll also share some of the hard-earned lessons I’ve learned along the way.
1. Understanding the Husqvarna 435 Chainsaw Bar: The Foundation of Your Cut
The chainsaw bar is more than just a piece of metal; it’s the foundation upon which your cut is built. Understanding its components and how they interact is crucial for safe and efficient operation.
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What is a Chainsaw Bar? The chainsaw bar is the long, flat metal guide that supports and guides the chain as it cuts through wood. It’s made of hardened steel and features a groove around its perimeter where the chain rides.
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Key Components:
- Bar Length: This refers to the length of the usable cutting portion of the bar, typically measured in inches. The Husqvarna 435 commonly uses bars ranging from 13 to 18 inches. I find a 16-inch bar to be a versatile choice for most farm tasks, providing enough reach for felling smaller trees while remaining maneuverable for limbing.
- Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links on the chain that fit into the groove of the bar. The Husqvarna 435 typically uses a .050″ gauge chain. Using the wrong gauge will prevent the chain from fitting properly on the bar.
- Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. The Husqvarna 435 often uses a 3/8″ pitch chain. Matching the pitch of the chain to the sprocket and bar is essential for smooth operation.
- Sprocket Nose: Some bars have a sprocket at the tip to reduce friction and wear on the chain. While not all bars have this feature, it can extend chain life and improve cutting performance. I personally prefer bars with a sprocket nose, especially for prolonged use.
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Importance of Bar Maintenance: A well-maintained bar is critical for safety and performance.
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Regular Cleaning: Sawdust and debris can accumulate in the bar groove, hindering chain movement and causing premature wear. Clean the groove regularly with a screwdriver or a specialized bar groove cleaner. I make it a habit to clean the bar after every use.
- Filing the Bar: Over time, the bar rails can become worn or burred, affecting chain tracking and cutting accuracy. Use a bar filing tool to restore the rails to their original shape. This is something I usually do every few chain sharpenings.
- Bar Rotation: Rotating the bar periodically helps to distribute wear evenly, extending its lifespan. I rotate my bars every time I change the chain.
- Checking for Damage: Inspect the bar regularly for cracks, bends, or other damage. A damaged bar can be dangerous and should be replaced immediately.
- Choosing the Right Bar: The ideal bar length depends on the size of the wood you’ll be cutting. A shorter bar is more maneuverable for limbing and smaller tasks, while a longer bar is better for felling larger trees. For the Husqvarna 435, I recommend starting with a 16-inch bar and then adjusting based on your specific needs.
2. Mastering Chain Sharpening: The Key to Efficient Cutting
A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. Learning to sharpen your chain properly is one of the most valuable skills you can acquire as a chainsaw user.
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Why Sharpening Matters:
- Improved Cutting Performance: A sharp chain cuts faster and more efficiently, saving you time and effort.
- Reduced Kickback Risk: A dull chain is more likely to kick back, posing a serious safety hazard.
- Extended Chain Life: Sharpening your chain regularly prevents excessive wear and tear, prolonging its lifespan.
- Reduced Strain on the Saw: A sharp chain reduces the strain on the engine, extending the life of your chainsaw.
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Tools for Chain Sharpening:
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Round File: Use a round file with the correct diameter for your chain’s pitch (typically 5/32″ for a 3/8″ pitch chain).
- File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct angle and depth while sharpening, ensuring consistent results. I highly recommend using a file guide, especially when you’re starting out.
- Flat File: Use a flat file to adjust the depth gauges (rakers) on the chain.
- Depth Gauge Tool: This tool helps you accurately measure and adjust the depth gauges.
- Vise: A vise securely holds the chainsaw bar in place while you sharpen, making the process easier and safer.
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Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide:
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Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise, ensuring it’s held securely.
- Identify the Correct Angle: Use the file guide to determine the correct sharpening angle for your chain. This angle is typically marked on the file guide.
- Sharpen the Cutters: Hold the round file in the file guide and place it against the cutting tooth. Use smooth, consistent strokes, filing from the inside of the cutter outwards. Maintain the correct angle and depth throughout the stroke. I usually aim for 3-5 strokes per cutter.
- Sharpen All Cutters: Repeat step 3 for all the cutters on the chain, ensuring you sharpen each cutter equally.
- Adjust Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges (rakers). If they are too high, use the flat file to carefully file them down to the correct height. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth.
- Inspect and Test: After sharpening, inspect the chain for any damaged or worn cutters. Test the chain by making a few cuts in a piece of wood. A properly sharpened chain should cut smoothly and efficiently.
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Tips for Effective Sharpening:
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Maintain a Consistent Angle: Maintaining a consistent angle is crucial for achieving a sharp and even cut.
- Use Light Pressure: Avoid applying too much pressure, as this can damage the cutting teeth.
- Sharpen Regularly: Sharpen your chain regularly to prevent it from becoming too dull. I usually sharpen my chain after every few hours of use.
- Practice Makes Perfect: Sharpening a chainsaw chain takes practice. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Keep practicing, and you’ll eventually develop the skills you need.
- When to Replace the Chain: Even with regular sharpening, a chainsaw chain will eventually wear out. Replace the chain when the cutters are too short to sharpen effectively, or if the chain is damaged or stretched beyond its limits.
3. Felling Small Trees Safely and Effectively
Felling trees is one of the most common tasks on a farm, whether it’s clearing land, managing woodlots, or harvesting firewood. While the Husqvarna 435 is not designed for felling large trees, it’s perfectly capable of handling smaller trees with the right techniques and safety precautions.
- Safety First: Felling trees is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Before you start, assess the tree for hazards such as dead branches, lean, and wind direction.
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Planning Your Cut:
- Assess the Tree: Determine the tree’s natural lean and identify any obstacles in its path. Plan your escape route so you can move away from the falling tree quickly and safely.
- Clear the Area: Remove any brush, rocks, or other obstacles from around the base of the tree.
- Choose Your Felling Direction: Ideally, you want to fell the tree in its natural lean. However, you may need to adjust the felling direction to avoid obstacles or hazards.
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Felling Techniques:
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The Notch Cut (Undercut): The notch cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a notch. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be about 45 degrees. I always make sure the point of the notch is clean and well-defined.
- The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch. The hinge helps to control the fall of the tree.
- The Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the back cut and the notch. It’s crucial for controlling the fall of the tree. The width of the hinge depends on the size of the tree. For smaller trees, a hinge of a few inches is usually sufficient.
- Felling Wedges: If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, or if you need to ensure a precise fall, use felling wedges. Drive the wedges into the back cut to help push the tree over in the desired direction. I find plastic wedges to be safer than metal wedges, as they are less likely to damage the chainsaw chain if you accidentally hit them.
- The Fall: Once the back cut is complete, and the wedges are in place (if needed), the tree will begin to fall. Shout a warning (“Timber!”) to alert anyone in the area. Move away from the falling tree quickly and safely, following your planned escape route.
- Dealing with Hangups: A hung-up tree is one that gets caught in another tree during the fall. This is a dangerous situation and should be handled with extreme caution. Never try to dislodge a hung-up tree by climbing it or shaking it. Use a winch, tractor, or other heavy equipment to pull the tree down safely. I once had a small tree hang up, and I tried to dislodge it myself. Luckily, I wasn’t hurt, but it was a valuable lesson in respecting the power of nature.
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Best Practices:
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Practice on Small Trees: Start by practicing on small trees before attempting to fell larger ones.
- Use Sharp Chains: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient felling.
- Work with a Partner: If possible, work with a partner who can help you assess the tree, clear the area, and provide assistance if needed.
- Take Breaks: Felling trees is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
- Never Work Alone: Always let someone know where you are and when you expect to be back.
4. Limbing and Bucking: Turning Trees into Usable Wood
Once you’ve felled a tree, the next step is to limb it (remove the branches) and buck it (cut the trunk into manageable lengths). These tasks require different techniques and considerations than felling.
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Limbing:
- Safety First: Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for spring poles (branches under tension that can snap back when cut).
- Limbing Techniques: Start by limbing the underside of the tree, working your way up to the top. Use the chainsaw to cut the branches close to the trunk, being careful not to damage the trunk. I prefer to use the bottom of the bar for limbing, as it reduces the risk of kickback.
- Supporting the Tree: If the tree is lying on uneven ground, use logs or branches to support it while you limb. This will prevent the tree from rolling or shifting, which can be dangerous.
- Dealing with Spring Poles: Spring poles are branches that are bent under tension. When you cut them, they can snap back with considerable force, causing injury. To safely limb a spring pole, make a series of small cuts on the tension side of the branch until the tension is gradually released.
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Bucking:
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Safety First: Wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for the log rolling or shifting.
- Bucking Techniques: Bucking is the process of cutting the trunk of the tree into manageable lengths. The length of the logs will depend on their intended use (firewood, lumber, etc.).
- Supporting the Log: Before you start bucking, make sure the log is properly supported. If the log is lying on the ground, use logs or branches to lift it up. This will prevent the chainsaw from binding and reduce the risk of kickback.
- Cutting Techniques: There are several different bucking techniques you can use, depending on the size and position of the log.
- Simple Bucking: If the log is supported on both ends, make a single cut through the log.
- Overbucking: If the log is supported on one end, make a cut from the top down, stopping about halfway through the log. Then, make a second cut from the bottom up, meeting the first cut. This technique prevents the log from pinching the chainsaw.
- Underbucking: If the log is supported in the middle, make a cut from the bottom up, stopping about halfway through the log. Then, make a second cut from the top down, meeting the first cut. This technique also prevents the log from pinching the chainsaw.
- Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the weight of the log closes the cut, trapping the chainsaw bar. To avoid pinching, use proper bucking techniques and make sure the log is properly supported. If the chainsaw does get pinched, don’t try to force it out. Use a wedge or another tool to open the cut and release the chainsaw.
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Estimating Wood Volume: Understanding how to estimate the volume of wood you are processing is crucial for planning and efficiency.
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Firewood: Firewood is typically sold by the cord. A standard cord is a stack of wood that measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long (128 cubic feet). To estimate the number of cords in a pile of wood, measure the height, width, and length of the pile and multiply the dimensions together. Then, divide the result by 128.
- Lumber: Lumber is typically sold by the board foot. A board foot is a unit of measurement that represents a piece of lumber that is 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long. To estimate the number of board feet in a log, use a log scale. A log scale is a table that shows the estimated number of board feet in a log, based on its diameter and length. There are several different log scales, such as the Doyle scale, the Scribner scale, and the International 1/4-inch scale. The choice of log scale depends on the region and the type of lumber being produced.
5. Firewood Preparation: From Log to Cozy Fire
Preparing firewood is a common task on many farms, providing a sustainable source of heat for homes and barns. The Husqvarna 435 is well-suited for bucking firewood logs into manageable lengths, but additional tools and techniques are required for splitting and drying the wood.
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Choosing the Right Wood:
- Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, are denser and burn longer than softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce. Hardwoods are generally preferred for firewood, but softwoods can be used for kindling or for starting fires.
- Seasoned vs. Green Wood: Seasoned wood is wood that has been allowed to dry for at least six months. Green wood is freshly cut wood that has a high moisture content. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke than green wood.
- Identifying Wood Types: Learning to identify different types of wood is essential for choosing the best firewood. Look at the bark, the grain, and the color of the wood. You can also use a wood identification guide to help you identify different species.
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Splitting Firewood:
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Manual Splitting: For smaller logs, you can split firewood manually using an axe or a splitting maul. Choose a splitting block that is stable and the right height for you. Place the log on the splitting block and swing the axe or maul down on the log, aiming for the center.
- Hydraulic Splitters: For larger logs, a hydraulic splitter is a much more efficient and safer option. Hydraulic splitters use hydraulic pressure to force a log against a wedge, splitting it in half. There are several different types of hydraulic splitters, including electric splitters, gas-powered splitters, and tractor-mounted splitters. I personally use a gas-powered splitter, as it provides plenty of power and is portable.
- Safety Considerations: When splitting firewood, always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots. Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting area. If you’re using a hydraulic splitter, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
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Drying Firewood:
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Stacking Methods: The key to drying firewood is to stack it in a way that allows for good air circulation. There are several different stacking methods you can use, including:
- Traditional Stacking: Stack the wood in rows, leaving a few inches of space between each row.
- Crib Stacking: Stack the wood in a crisscross pattern, forming a crib. This method provides excellent air circulation.
- Holz Hausen: This method involves stacking the wood in a circular pile, with a chimney in the center. The Holz Hausen is an efficient way to dry firewood, as it maximizes air circulation and minimizes the amount of ground contact. I’ve experimented with this method and found it particularly effective in windy areas.
- Drying Time: The amount of time it takes to dry firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. In general, hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods. In a dry climate, firewood may be dry in six months. In a humid climate, it may take a year or more.
- Measuring Moisture Content: To determine if firewood is dry enough to burn, use a moisture meter. A moisture meter measures the moisture content of the wood. Firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20% to burn efficiently.
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Storage:
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Protecting from the Elements: Once the firewood is dry, store it in a dry, well-ventilated location. Cover the wood with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
- Pest Control: Firewood can attract pests, such as insects and rodents. To prevent pests from infesting your firewood, store it away from your house and keep the area around the wood pile clean.
Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production on a Small Farm
Let me share a case study from a small farm I consulted with a few years ago. The farm had a 10-acre woodlot and wanted to utilize it for firewood production to supplement their income. They were using outdated methods and struggling to produce a significant amount of firewood.
Challenges:
- Inefficient bucking and splitting techniques.
- Poor firewood drying methods, resulting in slow drying times and mold growth.
- Lack of proper storage, leading to wood rot and pest infestations.
Solutions:
- Chainsaw Training: I provided hands-on training on safe and efficient chainsaw operation, focusing on bucking techniques to maximize wood yield and minimize waste.
- Hydraulic Splitter Implementation: We introduced a gas-powered hydraulic splitter, which significantly increased their splitting capacity and reduced physical strain.
- Improved Stacking Methods: We implemented the Holz Hausen stacking method, which improved air circulation and reduced drying times.
- Proper Storage: We built a simple shed with a raised floor and a tarp roof to protect the firewood from the elements and prevent pest infestations.
Results:
- Firewood production increased by 50%.
- Drying times were reduced by 30%.
- Wood rot and pest infestations were eliminated.
- The farm was able to generate a significant amount of additional income from firewood sales.
This case study demonstrates the importance of using proper techniques and tools for firewood preparation. By investing in the right equipment and implementing best practices, you can significantly improve your efficiency and profitability.
Final Thoughts: Continuing Your Chainsaw Journey
The Husqvarna 435 is a powerful tool that can transform your farm. By mastering the techniques outlined in this guide, you can safely and efficiently fell trees, limb branches, and prepare firewood. Remember to always prioritize safety, maintain your equipment properly, and continue learning and refining your skills. The journey of mastering a chainsaw is a continuous one, and there’s always something new to learn. So, get out there, put these tips into practice, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood.
