Douglas Fir Firewood (13-Hour Burn Test Reveals Surprising Coals)
As the days shorten and a nip enters the air, my thoughts inevitably turn to the comforting crackle of a wood fire. There’s something primal about the glow of the embers and the warmth that radiates through a home on a cold winter’s night. For me, it’s not just about heating my house; it’s about connecting with a tradition, a way of life that goes back centuries. I get immense satisfaction from felling, bucking, splitting, and stacking my own firewood. It’s hard work, no doubt, but it’s honest work that keeps me connected to the land. And let’s be honest, there’s a certain rugged appeal to wielding a chainsaw and transforming a fallen tree into a winter’s worth of warmth.
However, choosing the right wood makes all the difference. That brings us to the star of our show today: Douglas Fir. It’s a readily available softwood in many regions, but how does it stack up as firewood? I recently put Douglas Fir to the test, and the results were…surprising.
The State of the Firewood Game: A Global Perspective
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of Douglas Fir, let’s take a quick look at the bigger picture. Globally, the firewood industry is experiencing a resurgence, driven by rising energy costs and a growing awareness of sustainable heating alternatives.
- Market Growth: The global firewood market is projected to reach \$11.2 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 3.2% from 2020 (Source: Global Firewood Market Report, 2021). This growth is fueled by both residential heating and commercial applications, such as restaurants and saunas.
- Regional Variations: In Europe, particularly in Scandinavian countries and Eastern Europe, wood-burning stoves and fireplaces remain a primary heating source for many households. North America sees a similar trend, especially in rural areas. Asia, particularly in developing nations, relies heavily on firewood for cooking and heating, although sustainability concerns are growing.
- Sustainability Concerns: Sustainable forestry practices are increasingly important. Responsible logging and reforestation are crucial to ensure the long-term viability of firewood as a renewable energy source. Certification programs like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) are gaining traction, helping consumers identify sustainably sourced firewood.
- Technological Advancements: While the basic process of preparing firewood remains largely unchanged, technology is playing a role in improving efficiency and safety. Chainsaws are becoming lighter and more powerful, log splitters are more efficient, and moisture meters are readily available to ensure proper seasoning.
Douglas Fir Firewood: An In-Depth Look
Douglas Fir ( Pseudotsuga menziesii ) is a common softwood found across western North America. It’s known for its strength and is widely used in construction. But what about its potential as firewood? Let’s delve into its properties:
- Heat Value: Douglas Fir has a BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating of around 20 million BTUs per cord. This places it in the mid-range for firewood. Hardwoods like oak and maple offer higher BTU values, meaning they release more heat per volume. However, Douglas Fir still provides a decent amount of warmth.
- Density: Douglas Fir is a relatively lightweight softwood. This means it’s easier to split and handle than denser hardwoods. However, it also means it burns faster.
- Resin Content: Douglas Fir contains a significant amount of resin. This can make it easy to ignite, but it also means it produces more smoke and creosote than hardwoods. Creosote buildup in your chimney is a fire hazard, so it’s crucial to burn Douglas Fir properly and maintain your chimney regularly.
- Seasoning Time: Douglas Fir seasons relatively quickly compared to hardwoods. With proper stacking and ventilation, it can be ready to burn in 6-12 months.
My 13-Hour Burn Test: The Surprising Truth About Douglas Fir Coals
Alright, let’s get to the good stuff: my 13-hour burn test. I wanted to see firsthand how Douglas Fir performed as firewood, particularly focusing on its coaling ability. I loaded my wood stove with seasoned Douglas Fir and kept a close eye on it throughout the day and night. Here’s what I observed:
- Easy to Ignite: True to its reputation, Douglas Fir lit very easily. The resinous wood caught quickly and produced a strong flame.
- Fast Burn Rate: As expected, the Douglas Fir burned relatively quickly compared to hardwoods like oak. I needed to reload the stove more frequently to maintain a consistent temperature.
- Smoke and Creosote: There was definitely more smoke produced compared to burning seasoned oak or maple. I made sure to keep the stove draft open to ensure proper combustion and minimize creosote buildup.
- The Surprise: Excellent Coaling: Here’s where things got interesting. Despite its reputation as a softwood, Douglas Fir produced a surprisingly good bed of coals. These coals burned long and hot, providing a sustained heat output even after the flames had died down. This was a welcome surprise, as I had expected the coals to burn out quickly.
- Ash Production: Douglas Fir produced a moderate amount of ash. It wasn’t excessive, but it was more than I typically see with hardwoods.
Conclusion: My 13-hour burn test revealed that Douglas Fir, while not the ideal firewood, can be a viable option, especially if you’re looking for wood that’s easy to ignite and produces surprisingly good coals. However, it’s essential to be mindful of the faster burn rate and increased smoke production.
1. Assessing the Tree and Planning the Felling
- Safety First: Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, safety is paramount. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including:
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches.
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to prevent wood chips from getting in your eyes.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the chainsaw’s noise.
- Gloves: Protect your hands and improve grip.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Essential for protecting your legs from accidental chainsaw contact.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Provide ankle support and protect your feet from falling logs.
- Tree Assessment: Carefully inspect the tree for any signs of disease, rot, or weakness. Look for dead branches, cracks in the trunk, or leaning. These factors can affect the tree’s stability and make felling more dangerous.
- Planning the Felling Direction: Determine the direction in which you want the tree to fall. Consider the following factors:
- Natural Lean: The tree will naturally tend to fall in the direction it’s leaning.
- Wind Direction: Wind can significantly affect the felling direction. Avoid felling trees in strong winds.
- Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the felling path, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
- Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the expected felling direction.
- Clearing the Area: Clear any brush, debris, or obstacles from around the base of the tree and along your planned escape route.
2. Felling the Tree: The Notch and Back Cut Technique
- The Notch: The notch is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut on the side of the tree facing the desired felling direction.
- Upper Cut: Make the upper cut of the notch at a 45-degree angle, angling downwards into the tree. The depth of the notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Lower Cut: Make the lower cut of the notch horizontally, meeting the upper cut to remove the wedge of wood.
- The Hinge: The hinge is a strip of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from kicking back. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
- The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly higher than the notch.
- Begin the Cut: Start the back cut carefully, ensuring that you maintain the correct hinge thickness.
- Watch for Movement: As you cut, watch for signs that the tree is starting to fall, such as cracking or movement in the canopy.
- Wedges (Optional): If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, you can use felling wedges to help push it over. Insert the wedges into the back cut and hammer them in.
- Retreat: As the tree begins to fall, immediately retreat along your planned escape route. Keep your eye on the falling tree and be aware of any falling branches.
3. De-limbing and Bucking: Transforming the Tree into Manageable Logs
- De-limbing: Remove the branches from the felled tree.
- Safety First: Be aware of the potential for branches to spring back when cut.
- Cutting Technique: Cut the branches close to the trunk, using smooth, controlled strokes.
- Work from Butt to Tip: Start at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top.
- Bucking: Cut the trunk into manageable lengths for splitting and stacking.
- Determine Length: Decide on the desired length of your firewood. I usually cut mine to 16-18 inches.
- Measure and Mark: Measure and mark the trunk at the desired intervals.
- Support the Log: Ensure that the log is properly supported before cutting. This will prevent the saw from pinching. You can use log stands or other logs to provide support.
- Cutting Technique: Cut through the log at the marked intervals, using smooth, controlled strokes.
4. Splitting the Logs: Axe vs. Log Splitter
- Axe Splitting: A traditional method that’s great for smaller logs and for those who enjoy the physical workout.
- Safety First: Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Stance: Position yourself with your feet shoulder-width apart, providing a stable base.
- Target: Aim for the center of the log or any existing cracks.
- Swing: Swing the axe with a smooth, controlled motion, bringing it down on the target.
- Follow Through: Let the weight of the axe do the work.
- Log Splitter: A hydraulic machine that makes splitting logs much easier and faster, especially for larger or tougher logs.
- Safety First: Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Placement: Place the log securely on the splitter.
- Operation: Operate the splitter according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Keep Hands Clear: Keep your hands clear of the splitting area.
5. Seasoning the Firewood: The Key to Efficient Burning
- Why Season Firewood? Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite, produces excessive smoke, and reduces its heat output. Seasoning reduces the moisture content, making the wood easier to burn and more efficient.
- Moisture Content Target: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood.
- Stacking for Optimal Drying:
- Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for your woodpile.
- Elevation: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or other materials. This will improve airflow and prevent moisture from wicking up from the ground.
- Stacking Method: Stack the wood in rows, leaving gaps between the rows to allow for air circulation.
- Covering: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
- Seasoning Time for Douglas Fir: Douglas Fir typically requires 6-12 months of seasoning to reach the desired moisture content.
Tool Selection: Chainsaws, Axes, and Log Splitters
Choosing the right tools can make a huge difference in your firewood preparation efficiency and safety. Here’s a breakdown of the key tools:
Chainsaws
- Types:
- Gas-Powered: More powerful and suitable for larger trees and heavy-duty use.
- Electric: Lighter, quieter, and easier to maintain, but less powerful.
- Battery-Powered: A good compromise between gas and electric, offering decent power and portability.
- Bar Length: Choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be felling. A longer bar allows you to cut larger trees, but it can also be more difficult to control.
- Features: Look for features like anti-vibration systems, chain brakes, and easy-start mechanisms.
- Maintenance: Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your chainsaw in good working order. This includes sharpening the chain, cleaning the air filter, and checking the oil levels.
Axes
- Types:
- Splitting Axe: Designed for splitting logs, with a heavier head and a wedge-shaped blade.
- Felling Axe: Designed for felling trees, with a sharper blade and a longer handle.
- Maul: A combination of an axe and a sledgehammer, used for splitting large, tough logs.
- Handle Length: Choose a handle length that’s comfortable for you and allows you to generate enough power.
- Head Weight: A heavier head provides more splitting power, but it can also be more tiring to use.
Log Splitters
- Types:
- Hydraulic: The most common type, using hydraulic pressure to split logs.
- Electric: Quieter and easier to maintain than gas-powered models.
- Gas-Powered: More powerful and suitable for larger logs.
- Manual: Operated by hand, requiring more physical effort.
- Tonnage: Choose a log splitter with enough tonnage to handle the size and type of logs you’ll be splitting. A 20-ton splitter is typically sufficient for most firewood applications.
- Cycle Time: The cycle time is the time it takes for the splitter to complete one splitting cycle. A faster cycle time means you can split more logs in less time.
Costs and Budgeting: Making Firewood Preparation Affordable
Preparing your own firewood can save you money in the long run, but it’s important to factor in the initial costs of tools, equipment, and supplies. Here’s a breakdown of the typical costs:
- Chainsaw: \$200 – \$1000+ (depending on type and features)
- Axe: \$50 – \$200
- Log Splitter: \$500 – \$2000+ (depending on type and tonnage)
- PPE: \$100 – \$300
- Gas and Oil: Ongoing cost, depending on usage
- Moisture Meter: \$20 – \$100
- Tarps: \$20 – \$50
- Chainsaw Sharpening Tools: \$20 – \$50
Tips for Saving Money:
- Buy Used Tools: You can often find used chainsaws, axes, and log splitters in good condition at a fraction of the price of new ones.
- Rent Equipment: If you only need a log splitter occasionally, consider renting one instead of buying it.
- Source Free Wood: Look for fallen trees on your property or ask neighbors if they have any trees they need removed.
- Sharpen Your Own Chainsaw: Learning to sharpen your own chainsaw chain can save you money on sharpening services.
- DIY Wood Storage: Build your own wood storage rack using recycled materials.
Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls: Avoiding Firewood Fiascos
Even with careful planning and execution, things can sometimes go wrong when preparing firewood. Here are some common pitfalls and how to avoid them:
- Chainsaw Kickback: A dangerous situation that occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with an object, causing the saw to kick back towards the operator.
- Prevention: Always use a chainsaw with a chain brake and be aware of the position of the saw bar. Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
- Pinched Chainsaw: Occurs when the saw blade gets stuck in the wood.
- Prevention: Ensure that the log is properly supported before cutting. Use wedges to keep the cut open.
- Dull Chainsaw Chain: Makes cutting difficult and increases the risk of kickback.
- Prevention: Sharpen your chainsaw chain regularly.
- Wet Firewood: Difficult to ignite and produces excessive smoke.
- Prevention: Season your firewood properly before burning.
- Creosote Buildup: A fire hazard that occurs when unburned wood particles condense in the chimney.
- Prevention: Burn only seasoned firewood and have your chimney inspected and cleaned regularly.
- Back Strain: Lifting heavy logs can strain your back.
- Prevention: Use proper lifting techniques and take breaks frequently. Consider using a log carrier to reduce the strain on your back.
- Splitting Tough Logs: Some logs are difficult to split, even with a log splitter.
- Solution: Try splitting the log from a different angle or use a maul to split it.
Case Studies: Successful Firewood Projects
Let’s take a look at some real-world examples of successful firewood projects:
- Case Study 1: The Sustainable Firewood Producer: A small-scale firewood producer in Vermont uses sustainable forestry practices to harvest firewood from their own land. They selectively harvest trees, leaving the best trees to grow and regenerate. They also use a portable sawmill to process some of the logs into lumber, maximizing the value of their harvest.
- Case Study 2: The Urban Firewood Enthusiast: A homeowner in Seattle sources firewood from urban tree removal services. They collect the logs, split them, and season them in their backyard. They use the firewood to heat their home and save money on their heating bills.
- Case Study 3: The Community Firewood Project: A group of volunteers in a rural community in Alaska collects and processes firewood for elderly and low-income residents. They provide a valuable service to their community and help ensure that everyone has access to affordable heating.
Next Steps and Additional Resources: Fueling Your Firewood Journey
Ready to get started on your own firewood project? Here are some next steps and additional resources to help you along the way:
- Find a Local Firewood Supplier: If you don’t have access to your own trees, you can purchase firewood from a local supplier.
- Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: A chainsaw safety course will teach you the proper techniques for felling trees and using a chainsaw safely.
- Join a Local Woodworking Club: A woodworking club can provide you with valuable knowledge and support.
- Consult with a Professional Arborist: If you’re unsure about how to fell a tree safely, consult with a professional arborist.
- Check Local Regulations: Be aware of any local regulations regarding firewood harvesting and burning.
Suppliers of Logging Tools and Drying Equipment:
- Chainsaws: Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo
- Axes: Gransfors Bruks, Wetterlings, Fiskars
- Log Splitters: Champion, Ariens, Swisher
- Moisture Meters: General Tools, Wagner Meters, Delmhorst
- Drying Equipment Rental Services: Check with your local equipment rental companies.
Final Thoughts: The Warmth of Self-Reliance
Preparing your own firewood is a rewarding experience that connects you to the land and provides you with a sustainable source of heat. While Douglas Fir may not be the perfect firewood, it’s a viable option that offers its own unique benefits. With proper preparation and safety precautions, you can enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood fire all winter long. So, grab your chainsaw, axe, and get ready to embrace the satisfying challenge of transforming a tree into a winter’s worth of warmth. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of self-reliance and the cozy glow of a fire you’ve fueled yourself. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have some wood to split!