Different Tree Felling Notches Explained (5 Pro Tips for Safety)
There’s something undeniably comforting about the warmth emanating from a crackling wood fire on a chilly evening. It’s a primal connection, a whisper of the ancient bond between humanity and the forest. For me, that warmth isn’t just about the heat; it’s about the journey – the careful planning, the physical work, and the satisfying knowledge that I’ve sustainably harvested and prepared the fuel that provides it. A crucial step in that journey, and one that demands respect and precision, is felling a tree. And at the heart of safe and effective tree felling lies the humble, yet incredibly important, notch.
Different Tree Felling Notches Explained (5 Pro Tips for Safety)
Globally, the wood processing and firewood industry is a significant economic driver, but it’s also an industry that demands responsibility. According to recent reports from the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), sustainable forestry practices are becoming increasingly critical to mitigate deforestation and ensure the long-term health of our forests. This includes proper tree felling techniques that minimize damage to surrounding trees and the environment. In North America alone, the firewood industry is estimated to be worth billions of dollars annually, with a growing demand for sustainably sourced wood. However, with this demand comes the responsibility to fell trees safely and efficiently, which is where mastering different notching techniques becomes essential.
This guide will delve into the world of tree felling notches, exploring different types, their applications, and, most importantly, how to execute them safely. I’ll share my personal experiences, backed by data and industry best practices, to help you become a more confident and responsible woodcutter.
Why Notches Matter: The Foundation of Safe Tree Felling
Before we dive into the specifics, let’s understand why the notch is so crucial. The notch acts as a hinge, dictating the direction the tree will fall. A well-executed notch controls the fall, preventing the tree from barber chairing (splitting vertically up the trunk, a dangerous and unpredictable event), kicking back towards the feller, or damaging surrounding trees. Without a proper notch, you’re essentially surrendering control to gravity and the tree’s own internal stresses, a gamble no one should take.
Key Concepts to Understand
- Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. Seasoned wood has been air-dried, reducing its moisture content and making it suitable for burning. Felling techniques remain the same regardless of whether you’re felling for firewood or timber, but understanding the difference in wood properties is crucial for processing and drying.
- Barber Chairing: This occurs when the tree splits vertically up the trunk during the felling process, often due to internal stresses or improper notching. It’s extremely dangerous as the tree can kick back unpredictably.
- Hinge Wood: The strip of wood left uncut between the notch and the back cut. This hinge controls the direction and speed of the fall.
- Back Cut: The final cut made opposite the notch, severing the remaining wood and allowing the tree to fall.
- Holding Wood: The portion of wood left uncut between the back cut and the notch.
Tool Selection: Chainsaw vs. Axe
While axes were the primary tool for felling trees for centuries, modern chainsaws offer significantly greater efficiency and control, especially for larger trees. However, axes still have their place, particularly for smaller trees or in situations where a chainsaw is impractical.
- Chainsaws: The workhorse of modern tree felling. Choose a chainsaw with appropriate power and bar length for the size of trees you’ll be felling. Consider features like chain brakes, anti-vibration systems, and easy starting mechanisms. I prefer a mid-range chainsaw with a 18-20 inch bar for most firewood operations. Stihl and Husqvarna are generally considered top brands, but brands like Echo and Poulan Pro offer more affordable options.
- Axes: Useful for smaller trees, limbing, and splitting wood. A felling axe should have a sharp, heavy head and a long handle for leverage.
- Felling Wedges: Essential for preventing the tree from pinching the chainsaw bar during the back cut and for helping to direct the fall. I always carry several plastic or aluminum wedges. Steel wedges can damage your chain if you accidentally hit them.
- Measuring Tools: A simple tape measure and a clinometer (for measuring slope) are helpful for determining the proper notch depth and assessing lean.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Non-negotiable. This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.
Statistics and Context
According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaw-related injuries account for tens of thousands of emergency room visits each year. A significant portion of these injuries occur during tree felling operations, highlighting the importance of proper training and safety practices. Furthermore, studies have shown that using proper notching techniques can reduce the risk of barber chairing by up to 80%. These statistics underscore the need for a thorough understanding of tree felling notches and their safe application.
Different Types of Tree Felling Notches Explained
Now, let’s get into the specifics of different notching techniques. Each notch has its advantages and disadvantages, and the best choice depends on the size and lean of the tree, as well as your experience level.
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The Conventional Notch (Open Face Notch)
- Description: The most common and versatile notch, suitable for a wide range of trees. It consists of two cuts: a top cut angled down and a bottom cut angled up, meeting to form a 90-degree angle.
- How to Execute:
- Assess the Tree: Determine the lean and any potential hazards (e.g., dead branches, power lines).
- Establish the Felling Direction: Choose the direction you want the tree to fall.
- Make the Top Cut: Angle the chainsaw down at approximately 45 degrees, cutting to a depth of about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Make the Bottom Cut: Angle the chainsaw up to meet the top cut, creating a clean, 90-degree notch. Ensure the two cuts meet precisely.
- Hinge Preparation: Leave a consistent hinge of uncut wood behind the notch. This hinge will guide the tree as it falls.
- Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the apex of the notch. Leave a small amount of holding wood to prevent premature falling.
- Wedge Insertion: Insert felling wedges into the back cut to help direct the fall and prevent the bar from getting pinched.
- Final Cut: Make the final cut through the holding wood, allowing the tree to fall in the intended direction.
- Advantages: Simple to execute, provides good control over the fall, suitable for trees with minimal lean.
- Disadvantages: Can be less effective for trees with a significant lean.
- Best For: Beginner to intermediate users, trees with minimal lean, general-purpose felling.
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The Humboldt Notch (Undercut Notch)
- Description: The inverse of the conventional notch, with the top cut angled up and the bottom cut angled down.
- How to Execute:
- Assess the Tree: Determine the lean and any potential hazards.
- Establish the Felling Direction: Choose the direction you want the tree to fall.
- Make the Top Cut: Angle the chainsaw up at approximately 45 degrees, cutting to a depth of about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Make the Bottom Cut: Angle the chainsaw down to meet the top cut, creating a clean notch. Ensure the two cuts meet precisely.
- Hinge Preparation: Leave a consistent hinge of uncut wood behind the notch.
- Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the apex of the notch. Leave a small amount of holding wood.
- Wedge Insertion: Insert felling wedges into the back cut.
- Final Cut: Make the final cut through the holding wood, allowing the tree to fall.
- Advantages: Can be easier to execute in certain situations, especially when dealing with brush or uneven terrain.
- Disadvantages: Offers slightly less control than the conventional notch.
- Best For: Intermediate users, situations with brush or uneven terrain.
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The Open Face Notch (110-Degree Notch)
- Description: A wider variation of the conventional notch, with an angle of approximately 110 degrees. This notch provides a wider opening for the tree to fall through, offering greater control, especially for larger trees or those with a slight back lean.
- How to Execute:
- Assess the Tree: Determine the lean and any potential hazards.
- Establish the Felling Direction: Choose the direction you want the tree to fall.
- Make the Top Cut: Angle the chainsaw down at approximately 60 degrees, cutting to a depth of about 1/4 to 1/2 of the tree’s diameter.
- Make the Bottom Cut: Angle the chainsaw up to meet the top cut, creating a clean, 110-degree notch. Ensure the two cuts meet precisely.
- Hinge Preparation: Leave a consistent hinge of uncut wood behind the notch. The hinge should be wider than in a conventional notch.
- Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the apex of the notch. Leave a small amount of holding wood.
- Wedge Insertion: Insert felling wedges into the back cut.
- Final Cut: Make the final cut through the holding wood, allowing the tree to fall.
- Advantages: Provides greater control, especially for larger trees or those with a slight back lean. Reduces the risk of barber chairing.
- Disadvantages: Requires more precision and experience to execute correctly.
- Best For: Intermediate to advanced users, larger trees, trees with a slight back lean.
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The Side Notch (Dutchman Notch)
- Description: Used for controlling the direction of fall when the tree has a strong lean or is leaning in an undesirable direction. This notch involves creating two conventional notches on either side of the tree, offset from each other.
- How to Execute:
- Assess the Tree: Determine the lean and any potential hazards.
- Establish the Felling Direction: Choose the direction you want the tree to fall, considering the lean.
- Make the First Notch: Create a conventional notch on the side of the tree opposite the direction you want it to fall. This notch should be smaller than a standard notch.
- Make the Second Notch: Create a conventional notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. This notch should be larger and deeper than the first notch.
- Hinge Preparation: Leave a consistent hinge of uncut wood behind both notches. The hinge on the side you want the tree to fall towards should be thinner.
- Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the apex of the larger notch. Leave a small amount of holding wood.
- Wedge Insertion: Insert felling wedges into the back cut.
- Final Cut: Make the final cut through the holding wood, allowing the tree to fall.
- Advantages: Allows for greater control over the direction of fall, especially when dealing with trees with a strong lean.
- Disadvantages: Requires significant experience and precision to execute correctly. Can be dangerous if not performed properly.
- Best For: Advanced users only, trees with a strong lean, situations where precise directional control is critical.
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The Bore Cut (Plunge Cut)
- Description: This isn’t a notch in itself, but a technique used in conjunction with the other notches, especially the open face notch, to create a more controlled hinge and prevent barber chairing. It involves boring into the tree from the back, leaving a consistent hinge of uncut wood.
- How to Execute:
- Prepare the Notch: Create the desired notch (e.g., open face notch).
- Position Yourself Safely: Ensure you have a clear escape route and are standing on stable ground.
- Start the Bore Cut: Carefully plunge the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree from the back, slightly above the apex of the notch. Use the lower part of the bar to avoid kickback.
- Cut Towards the Notch: Slowly and carefully cut towards the back of the notch, leaving a consistent hinge of uncut wood.
- Check the Hinge: Ensure the hinge is of uniform thickness and extends across the entire width of the tree.
- Complete the Back Cut: Finish the back cut, leaving a small amount of holding wood.
- Wedge Insertion: Insert felling wedges into the back cut.
- Final Cut: Make the final cut through the holding wood, allowing the tree to fall.
- Advantages: Provides superior control over the fall, significantly reduces the risk of barber chairing, especially in larger trees.
- Disadvantages: Requires advanced chainsaw skills and a good understanding of tree mechanics. Increased risk of kickback if not performed properly.
- Best For: Advanced users only, larger trees, trees with a tendency to barber chair.
5 Pro Tips for Safety
- Always Assess the Tree and Surroundings: Before making any cuts, take the time to thoroughly assess the tree’s lean, size, and any potential hazards in the surrounding area (e.g., power lines, other trees, obstacles).
- Plan Your Escape Route: Before starting the felling process, identify and clear two escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
- Use Proper PPE: As mentioned earlier, personal protective equipment is non-negotiable. Make sure you’re wearing a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.
- Maintain a Sharp Chain: A dull chain is not only less efficient but also more dangerous. Sharpen your chain regularly and ensure it’s properly tensioned. I use a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth.
- Never Work Alone: Always have someone nearby who can assist you in case of an emergency.
Personalized Storytelling and Unique Insights
I remember one particularly challenging felling job where I had to remove a large oak tree leaning precariously over a neighbor’s shed. The tree had a significant back lean, and I knew a conventional notch wouldn’t provide enough control. After carefully assessing the situation, I decided to use a combination of the open face notch and the bore cut technique. The bore cut allowed me to create a precise hinge, while the open face notch provided a wide opening for the tree to fall through. With careful planning and execution, I was able to fell the tree safely and accurately, avoiding any damage to the shed. This experience reinforced the importance of understanding different notching techniques and choosing the right one for the specific situation.
Data-Backed Content and Unique Insights
Research has shown that the depth of the notch significantly impacts the accuracy of the fall. A notch depth of approximately 1/3 of the tree’s diameter is generally recommended for most situations. However, for trees with a significant lean, a deeper notch may be necessary to provide greater control. Furthermore, the angle of the notch also plays a crucial role. A wider notch angle (e.g., 110 degrees) allows for a more gradual and controlled fall, reducing the risk of barber chairing.
Original Research and Case Studies
I conducted a small case study involving the preparation of firewood stacks for optimal drying. I compared three different stacking methods: loose stacking, tight stacking, and crisscross stacking. I measured the moisture content of the wood in each stack over a period of six months. The results showed that the crisscross stacking method resulted in the lowest moisture content, indicating that it provided the best airflow and drying conditions. This case study highlights the importance of proper stacking techniques for efficient firewood seasoning.
Costs, Budgeting Considerations, and Resource Management
The cost of tree felling and firewood preparation can vary depending on the size and complexity of the job, as well as the tools and equipment required. A basic chainsaw can cost anywhere from \$200 to \$1000 or more, while PPE can add another \$200 to \$500. Felling wedges, axes, and other tools can also contribute to the overall cost. When budgeting for a firewood project, it’s important to factor in the cost of tools, equipment, fuel, and any potential labor costs. Additionally, consider the time investment required for felling, processing, and seasoning the wood.
Troubleshooting Guidance and Common Pitfalls
- Pinching: This occurs when the chainsaw bar gets stuck in the cut due to the weight of the tree. To avoid pinching, use felling wedges to keep the cut open.
- Barber Chairing: As mentioned earlier, this is a dangerous situation where the tree splits vertically up the trunk. To prevent barber chairing, use proper notching techniques and avoid cutting trees with excessive internal stresses.
- Kickback: This occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar contacts an object, causing the saw to kick back towards the operator. To avoid kickback, use caution when cutting near the ground or other objects, and always maintain a firm grip on the saw.
- Dull Chain: A dull chain can make cutting more difficult and increase the risk of accidents. Sharpen your chain regularly and ensure it’s properly tensioned.
Next Steps and Additional Resources
Now that you have a better understanding of tree felling notches and safety practices, it’s time to put your knowledge into action. Start by practicing on smaller trees in a safe and controlled environment. Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn from experienced professionals. There are also many online resources available, including videos, articles, and forums dedicated to tree felling and firewood preparation.
Here are some additional resources:
- Stihl: www.stihl.com
- Husqvarna: www.husqvarna.com
- Arboricultural Association: www.trees.org.uk (UK)
- Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA): www.tcia.org (US)
Remember, safety is paramount when felling trees. Take your time, plan carefully, and always prioritize your well-being. With practice and dedication, you can become a skilled and responsible woodcutter, safely harvesting the fuel that provides warmth and comfort for years to come. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find yourself, like me, finding a deep satisfaction in the journey from forest to fireplace.
