Burn Ash Wood: Seasoning Tips for Perfect Firewood (5 Pro Tricks)

Let’s get you burning ash like a pro! The quick win here is understanding that properly seasoned ash, compared to unseasoned, will give you twice the heat and a fraction of the smoke. Now, let’s dive deep into the art of seasoning ash for perfect firewood.

Why Season Ash Firewood? The Science Behind the Burn

Before we get into the “how,” let’s understand the “why.” Seasoning firewood is all about reducing its moisture content. Green wood can contain upwards of 50% water by weight. Burning this water consumes energy, reducing the heat output and creating copious amounts of smoke, creosote buildup in your chimney, and a generally unpleasant burning experience.

Seasoned wood, on the other hand, typically has a moisture content of 20% or less. This allows it to burn hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

• Green Wood: High moisture content (35-50%), difficult to light, produces lots of smoke, low heat output, increased creosote risk.
• Seasoned Wood: Low moisture content (15-20%), easy to light, minimal smoke, high heat output, reduced creosote risk.

Think of it like this: you’re essentially paying to boil water if you burn green wood. You want to burn wood, not evaporate water.

Pro Trick #1: The Felling and Bucking Advantage

The seasoning process starts before you even split the wood. The way you fell and buck the tree can significantly impact drying time.

• Felling for Sun and Air: When felling the ash tree, consider its orientation in relation to the sun and prevailing winds. Aim to drop the tree in an open area where it will receive maximum sunlight and airflow. This will start the drying process immediately.
• Bucking to Length: Bucking is cutting the felled tree into manageable lengths. For firewood, I generally recommend lengths of 16-18 inches. This is a good compromise for most wood stoves and fireplaces. However, consider your specific appliance. Measure the firebox of your stove or fireplace. The firewood should be a few inches shorter than the smallest dimension of the firebox. This allows for proper airflow around the wood.
• Early Bucking: Bucking the logs early in the season (late winter/early spring) allows the ends of the logs to begin drying before splitting. This is a small but significant advantage.
• Leave it Elevated: Whether you are bucking the tree on the ground, or using a saw buck, ensure that the logs are elevated off the ground. This prevents the wood from absorbing moisture from the ground, allowing air to circulate.

My Experience: I once felled an ash tree in a heavily shaded area. Even after splitting and stacking, it took nearly two years to season properly. In contrast, ash felled in an open field, bucked early, and stacked correctly, seasoned in just over a year. The difference was night and day.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: A chainsaw with a 18-20 inch bar is suitable for most ash trees. Consider a Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss or Husqvarna 455 Rancher.
• Saw Buck: A good saw buck will save your back and make bucking safer. Look for a sturdy, foldable model.
• Measuring Tape: Accuracy is key. Use a durable measuring tape to ensure consistent log lengths.

Pro Trick #2: The Power of Splitting

Splitting the wood is crucial for accelerating the drying process. Splitting exposes more surface area to the air, allowing moisture to escape more readily.

• Why Split Ash? While ash is relatively easy to split compared to some hardwoods like elm or oak, splitting is still essential. Unsplit logs dry very slowly and are prone to rot.
• When to Split: Ideally, split the wood as soon as possible after bucking. The sooner you split it, the sooner it will begin to dry.
• Splitting Techniques: There are several ways to split wood:
  • Manual Splitting (Axe): A good splitting axe is a fundamental tool. Choose an axe with a heavy head (6-8 lbs) and a long handle (36 inches) for maximum leverage. I prefer a maul with a wedge shape. Aim for the natural cracks in the wood and use a sturdy chopping block.
  • Manual Splitting (Splitting Maul): Similar to an axe but with a wider, heavier head designed specifically for splitting.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: For larger volumes of wood, a hydraulic log splitter is a game-changer. These machines use hydraulic pressure to force a wedge through the log. They significantly reduce the physical strain of splitting wood.
  • Wedge and Sledgehammer: For particularly tough logs, a wedge and sledgehammer can be effective. Drive the wedge into the log with the sledgehammer.

My Experience: I used to split all my firewood manually with an axe. It was a great workout, but it was also time-consuming and physically demanding. Investing in a hydraulic log splitter was one of the best decisions I ever made. It increased my efficiency tenfold and saved my back.

Tool Specifications:

• Splitting Axe: Fiskars IsoCore 8 lb Splitting Maul.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: 25-Ton Gas Powered Log Splitter (consider brands like Champion, NorthStar, or Troy-Bilt). Look for a cycle time of 15 seconds or less.
• Wedges: Steel splitting wedges with a tapered design.
• Sledgehammer: 8-12 lb sledgehammer with a fiberglass handle.

Data and Insights: A study by the University of Maine found that splitting firewood reduces drying time by approximately 30-50% compared to leaving it in log form.

Pro Trick #3: The Stacking Secret

How you stack your firewood is just as important as when you split it. The goal is to maximize airflow around each piece of wood.

• The Importance of Airflow: Airflow is the key to effective seasoning. Stacking your firewood in a way that promotes airflow will significantly reduce drying time.
• Stacking Methods:
  • Traditional Rows: Stack the wood in rows, leaving a few inches between each row. This allows air to circulate around the wood.
  • Circular Stacks (Holz Hausen): This method involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern with a hollow center. The hollow center acts as a chimney, promoting airflow. This method is aesthetically pleasing and effective.
  • Crib Stacking: Interlock the ends of the wood to create a stable crib structure. This method is particularly useful for shorter pieces of wood.
• Stacking Location: Choose a sunny, windy location for your woodpile. Avoid stacking wood directly on the ground. Use pallets, scrap wood, or rocks to elevate the woodpile. This prevents moisture from wicking up into the wood.
• Covering Your Woodpile: Covering your woodpile is a controversial topic. Some people believe that covering the woodpile prevents it from drying properly. Others believe that covering the woodpile protects it from rain and snow. My experience is that it depends on the climate. In areas with high rainfall, covering the top of the woodpile with a tarp can be beneficial. However, it’s important to leave the sides of the woodpile open to allow for airflow. If you live in a drier climate, covering the woodpile may not be necessary.
• Orientation: Orient the rows of your woodpile to take advantage of prevailing winds. This will maximize airflow through the woodpile.

My Experience: I experimented with different stacking methods and found that the circular stack (Holz Hausen) was the most effective in my area. It looked great and promoted excellent airflow. I also used pallets to elevate the woodpile, which made a noticeable difference in drying time.

Case Study: I once helped a friend stack his firewood in a damp, shaded area directly on the ground. After a year, the wood was still green and moldy. We moved the woodpile to a sunny, windy location, elevated it on pallets, and restacked it in rows. Within a few months, the wood was significantly drier.

Measurements and Specifications:

• Pallet Spacing: Use pallets that are at least 4 inches off the ground.
• Row Spacing: Leave at least 2-4 inches between rows.
• Stack Height: Don’t stack the wood too high. A stack height of 4-6 feet is ideal.
• Holz Hausen Diameter: A Holz Hausen should be no more than 8 feet in diameter.

Pro Trick #4: The Moisture Meter Masterclass

You can’t rely on guesswork. A moisture meter is the only way to know for sure if your firewood is properly seasoned.

• Why Use a Moisture Meter? A moisture meter measures the moisture content of wood. This is the only way to accurately determine if your firewood is properly seasoned.
• How to Use a Moisture Meter: Insert the probes of the moisture meter into a freshly split piece of wood. Take readings from several different pieces of wood to get an accurate average.
• Target Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 15-20% for optimal burning.
• Types of Moisture Meters: There are two main types of moisture meters: pin-type and pinless. Pin-type meters are more accurate, but they leave small holes in the wood. Pinless meters are less accurate, but they don’t damage the wood.
• Calibration: Calibrate your moisture meter regularly to ensure accurate readings.

My Experience: I used to rely on visual cues and the “feel” of the wood to determine if it was seasoned. I was often wrong. Investing in a moisture meter was a game-changer. It allowed me to accurately assess the moisture content of my firewood and ensure that I was burning properly seasoned wood.

Tool Specifications:

• Moisture Meter: Consider a pin-type moisture meter like the General Tools MMD4E or a pinless meter like the Wagner Meters MMC220.

Data and Insights: A study by the Forest Products Laboratory found that burning firewood with a moisture content of 25% or higher can reduce heat output by as much as 50%.

Pro Trick #5: The Ash-Specific Considerations

Ash has some unique characteristics that affect seasoning. Understanding these nuances will give you an edge.

• Ash’s Natural Properties: Ash is a relatively dense hardwood, but it’s also more porous than some other hardwoods like oak. This porosity allows it to dry relatively quickly, but it also makes it more susceptible to absorbing moisture from the ground.
• Bark Thickness: Ash bark is relatively thin, which allows for good airflow around the wood.
• Pest Resistance: Ash is relatively resistant to insects and decay, but it can still be affected by wood-boring insects.
• Ash Borer: Emerald ash borer is a devastating invasive insect that attacks and kills ash trees. If you live in an area affected by emerald ash borer, you may have access to a large supply of ash firewood. However, it’s important to be aware of the regulations regarding the transportation of firewood to prevent the spread of emerald ash borer.
• Splitting Difficulty: Ash is generally easy to split, but larger rounds can be challenging.
• Drying Time: Ash typically seasons in 6-12 months, depending on the climate and stacking method.

My Experience: I noticed that ash tended to dry faster than oak, even when stacked in the same conditions. This is likely due to its more porous nature. However, I also found that ash was more susceptible to absorbing moisture from the ground, so it’s important to elevate the woodpile.

Strategic Advantages:

• Faster Seasoning: Ash’s relatively quick drying time makes it a good choice for those who need firewood quickly.
• Easy Splitting: Ash’s ease of splitting makes it a good choice for those who split wood manually.
• High Heat Output: Ash produces a high heat output when properly seasoned.

Beyond the Tricks: Advanced Seasoning Techniques

For those looking to take their firewood seasoning game to the next level, here are some advanced techniques:

• Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a process of drying wood in a controlled environment using heat and airflow. This method can significantly reduce drying time, but it requires specialized equipment.
• Solar Kilns: Solar kilns use solar energy to heat the air inside the kiln, which in turn dries the wood. This is a more environmentally friendly option than traditional kilns.
• Forced Air Drying: This method involves using a fan to force air through the woodpile. This can accelerate drying time, but it requires a power source.
• Chemical Treatments: Some chemical treatments can help to speed up the drying process and prevent decay. However, these treatments can be expensive and may not be environmentally friendly. I generally avoid chemical treatments.
• Debarking: Removing the bark from the wood can speed up drying time, but it’s a labor-intensive process. I generally don’t debark my firewood unless it’s particularly thick barked.

Safety First: Handling Ash Firewood Responsibly

Safety should always be your top priority when handling firewood.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE when felling, bucking, and splitting wood. This includes:
  • Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Protect your hearing with earplugs or earmuffs.
  • Gloves: Protect your hands from splinters and abrasions.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw injuries.
• Chainsaw Safety: Follow all safety guidelines when operating a chainsaw.
  • Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions.
  • Proper Maintenance: Keep the chainsaw properly maintained.
  • Safe Cutting Techniques: Use safe cutting techniques.
  • Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of chainsaw kickback.
• Splitting Safety: Use caution when splitting wood.
  • Sturdy Chopping Block: Use a sturdy chopping block.
  • Clear Area: Keep the area around the chopping block clear of obstacles.
  • Proper Stance: Maintain a stable stance.
  • Sharp Axe: Use a sharp axe.
• Lifting Safety: Lift firewood properly to avoid back injuries.
  • Bend Your Knees: Bend your knees and keep your back straight.
  • Don’t Overload: Don’t try to lift too much wood at once.
  • Use a Wheelbarrow: Use a wheelbarrow to transport heavy loads.
• Stacking Safety: Stack firewood safely to prevent it from collapsing.
  • Stable Base: Create a stable base for the woodpile.
  • Avoid Overhanging: Avoid overhanging pieces of wood.
  • Keep Away from Buildings: Keep the woodpile away from buildings.
• Fire Safety: Store firewood away from your house to reduce the risk of fire.
  • Clear Area Around Woodpile: Clear the area around the woodpile of flammable materials.
  • Fire Extinguisher: Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
• Carbon Monoxide Safety: Ensure proper ventilation when burning firewood indoors to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
  • Carbon Monoxide Detector: Install a carbon monoxide detector in your home.
  • Regular Chimney Inspections: Have your chimney inspected and cleaned regularly.

Troubleshooting Common Seasoning Problems

Even with the best techniques, you may encounter problems during the seasoning process. Here are some common issues and how to address them:

• Mold and Mildew: Mold and mildew can grow on firewood in damp conditions. This is usually not a serious problem, but it can be unsightly. Improve airflow around the woodpile to prevent mold and mildew growth.
• Insect Infestation: Wood-boring insects can damage firewood. Inspect your woodpile regularly for signs of infestation. Treat the wood with an insecticide if necessary.
• Rot: Rot can occur if firewood is not properly seasoned. Avoid stacking wood directly on the ground to prevent rot.
• Slow Drying Time: If your firewood is taking longer than expected to dry, improve airflow around the woodpile and ensure that the wood is exposed to sunlight.
• Cracking: Cracking is a natural part of the drying process. It’s not usually a cause for concern, but excessive cracking can indicate that the wood is drying too quickly.

The Economic Benefits of Seasoning Your Own Ash

Beyond the superior burn quality, seasoning your own ash firewood offers significant economic advantages.

• Cost Savings: Purchasing seasoned firewood can be expensive. Seasoning your own firewood can save you a considerable amount of money.
• Resource Management: Seasoning your own firewood allows you to utilize readily available resources, such as fallen trees or trees that need to be removed.
• Self-Sufficiency: Seasoning your own firewood provides a sense of self-sufficiency and independence.
• Exercise: Felling, bucking, splitting, and stacking firewood is a great form of exercise.

Cost Analysis:

• Cost of Purchased Seasoned Firewood: $200-$400 per cord.
• Cost of Green Firewood: $100-$200 per cord.
• Cost of Tools (Axe, Chainsaw, Moisture Meter): $300-$500 (initial investment).

By seasoning your own firewood, you can save $100-$200 per cord, which can add up to significant savings over time.

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine how much firewood you need for the upcoming winter.
2. Source Your Ash: Find a source of ash firewood. This could be from your own property, a local tree service, or a firewood dealer.
3. Gather Your Tools: Gather the necessary tools, including a chainsaw, splitting axe, moisture meter, and safety equipment.
4. Fell, Buck, and Split: Fell, buck, and split the ash logs.
5. Stack and Season: Stack the firewood in a sunny, windy location, elevated off the ground.
6. Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the firewood.
7. Burn and Enjoy: Once the firewood is properly seasoned, burn it in your wood stove or fireplace and enjoy the warmth and comfort.

By following these steps, you can transform raw ash into premium firewood and enjoy the many benefits of burning properly seasoned wood. Happy burning!

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