28 Bar Chainsaw Chain Links Guide (Pitch & Drive Link Tips)
Imagine this: you’re deep in the woods, halfway through cutting a winter’s worth of firewood. Your chainsaw is humming, biting through a hefty oak log, when suddenly, snap. The chain breaks. You pull it out, and it’s a mangled mess. Now you’re faced with a crucial decision: try to repair it, replace it, and more importantly, how do you even figure out what chain you need? You look at the broken chain and think, “28 bar chainsaw chain links, huh? What does that even mean?”
This scenario, or something very similar, has happened to me more times than I care to admit. It’s frustrating, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. That’s why understanding chainsaw chain specifications, especially the number of drive links and how they relate to pitch and gauge, is absolutely essential for anyone who uses a chainsaw, whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior preparing for winter.
In this guide, I’m going to break down everything you need to know about chainsaw chains, focusing specifically on the 28 bar chainsaw chain links guide (pitch & drive link tips). I’ll share my own experiences, offer practical advice, and provide the knowledge you need to confidently choose the right chain for your saw and your needs.
Understanding Chainsaw Chains: The Foundation
Before diving into the specifics of a 28 bar chainsaw chain, let’s establish a solid understanding of the basic components and terminology. This will make it much easier to grasp the more complex concepts later on.
Key Chainsaw Chain Components
A chainsaw chain isn’t just a continuous loop of metal. It’s a complex assembly of interconnected parts, each playing a vital role in the cutting process. The main components include:
- Cutters: These are the teeth that do the actual cutting. They come in various shapes and sizes, each designed for specific cutting tasks. Common types include chisel, semi-chisel, and chipper cutters.
- Tie Straps: These connect the cutters and drive links together, providing structural support and distributing the cutting force.
- Drive Links: These are the small metal pieces that fit into the guide bar groove and are propelled by the chainsaw’s sprocket. The number of drive links is a crucial specification when selecting a replacement chain.
- Rivet Holes: These holes in the drive links allow them to be riveted together with the tie straps and cutters.
- Depth Gauges (Rakers): These small projections in front of the cutters control the depth of each cut, preventing the chain from grabbing too aggressively.
Key Terminology Explained
Understanding the following terms is crucial when discussing chainsaw chains:
- Pitch: This refers to the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s usually expressed in inches (e.g., .325″, 3/8″, .404″). Pitch determines the size and aggressiveness of the cut. A larger pitch generally means a more aggressive cut, suitable for larger saws and harder wood.
- Gauge: This refers to the thickness of the drive links, specifically the portion that fits into the guide bar groove. It’s also expressed in inches (e.g., .043″, .050″, .058″, .063″). Using the correct gauge is essential for proper chain fit and function.
- Drive Link Count: This is the total number of drive links in the chain. It’s the most important specification for ensuring the chain fits your specific chainsaw and guide bar combination.
- Bar Length: The length of the chainsaw guide bar, usually measured in inches. This is often (but not always) related to the number of drive links required.
- Full Complement: Refers to the standard sequence of cutters and tie straps on a chain.
Why These Specifications Matter
Choosing the wrong chain can lead to several problems:
- Poor Cutting Performance: A chain with the wrong pitch or cutter type might not cut efficiently or may even cause the saw to bog down.
- Chain Damage: Using the wrong gauge can damage the chain, the guide bar, or even the chainsaw itself.
- Safety Hazards: An improperly fitted chain can be dangerous, increasing the risk of kickback or chain breakage.
- Wasted Time and Money: Buying the wrong chain means a trip back to the store and a delay in your work.
Decoding “28 Bar Chainsaw Chain Links”
Now, let’s focus on the specific phrase “28 bar chainsaw chain links guide (pitch & drive link tips).” This phrase is a common query when someone needs to replace their chainsaw chain. It highlights two key pieces of information:
- 28 Bar: This likely refers to the length of the chainsaw guide bar, in inches. However, it’s crucial to understand that bar length doesn’t directly determine the number of drive links. It’s a related factor, but the specific chainsaw model and the manufacturer’s specifications are the primary determinants. A 28-inch bar is typically found on larger, more powerful chainsaws used for felling large trees and processing timber.
- Chainsaw Chain Links: This refers to the number of drive links in the chain. As mentioned earlier, this is a critical specification for ensuring proper fit and function.
- Guide (Pitch & Drive Link Tips): This indicates that the user is looking for information on how to determine the correct pitch and drive link count for their chainsaw.
The Importance of Accurate Drive Link Count
The number of drive links is arguably the most crucial factor in selecting the right chain. Too few drive links, and the chain won’t reach around the guide bar. Too many, and the chain will be too loose, potentially derailing and causing damage.
I remember one time, I was in a hurry to finish a firewood project before a storm. I grabbed a chain that looked “about right” and slapped it on my saw. It was slightly too long. I thought, “Eh, it’ll probably be fine.” Big mistake. The chain kept jumping off the bar, making cutting incredibly difficult and frustrating. After about an hour of struggling, I finally realized my error and went back to the store for the correct chain. That extra trip cost me valuable time and taught me a valuable lesson: always double-check the drive link count!
Why “28 Bar” Can Be Misleading
While “28 bar” suggests a 28-inch guide bar, it’s essential to confirm this information with the chainsaw manufacturer’s specifications. Here’s why:
- Variations Between Manufacturers: Different chainsaw manufacturers may use different numbers of drive links for the same bar length.
- Model-Specific Requirements: Even within the same brand, different chainsaw models with the same bar length may require different drive link counts.
- Aftermarket Bars: If you’ve replaced your original guide bar with an aftermarket one, the drive link count may differ from the original specification.
Therefore, relying solely on the bar length to determine the drive link count is a risky approach.
Step 1: Identify Your Chainsaw Model
This is the most crucial step. Locate the model number on your chainsaw. It’s usually found on a sticker or plate on the saw’s body. Common locations include:
- Near the handle
- On the engine housing
- On the guide bar mount
Write down the model number and the bar length.
Why this is important: The model number is the key to unlocking the manufacturer’s specifications for your chainsaw.
Step 2: Consult the Owner’s Manual
Your owner’s manual is the most reliable source of information about your chainsaw. It will typically list the following:
- Recommended chain pitch: This is usually expressed in inches (e.g., .325″, 3/8″, .404″).
- Recommended chain gauge: This is also expressed in inches (e.g., .050″, .058″).
- Recommended drive link count: This is the number of drive links required for your specific chainsaw model and bar length.
What to do if you don’t have the manual: Most chainsaw manufacturers have their owner’s manuals available online in PDF format. Simply search for your chainsaw model number followed by “owner’s manual” on Google or your preferred search engine.
Step 3: Measure the Pitch of Your Old Chain (If Available)
If you have the old chain, you can measure its pitch. This is a good way to double-check the information in your owner’s manual. Here’s how to measure pitch:
- Identify three consecutive rivets: These are the round metal pins that hold the chain together.
- Measure the distance between the first and third rivet: Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the distance between the centers of the first and third rivets.
- Divide the measurement by two: This will give you the pitch of the chain.
Example: If the distance between the first and third rivet is ¾ inch (0.75 inches), then the pitch is 0.75 inches / 2 = 0.375 inches. Since chain pitches are typically expressed as .325″, 3/8″ (.375″), or .404″, you would round to the nearest standard pitch. In this case, 3/8″ would be the correct pitch.
Important Note: Be as precise as possible when measuring. Even a small error can lead to choosing the wrong chain.
Step 4: Measure the Gauge of Your Old Chain (If Available)
You can also measure the gauge of your old chain using a caliper or a gauge measuring tool (often found at chainsaw supply stores). Here’s how:
- Measure the thickness of a drive link: Use the caliper or gauge to measure the thickness of the drive link where it fits into the guide bar groove.
Important Note: The gauge measurement should match the gauge specification in your owner’s manual.
Step 5: Count the Drive Links on Your Old Chain (If Available)
This is the most reliable way to determine the correct drive link count. Here’s how:
- Lay the chain flat: Place the old chain on a flat surface.
- Count each drive link: Carefully count each drive link around the entire chain.
Tips for accurate counting:
- Use a marker to mark the starting drive link to avoid counting it twice.
- Count in sections of 10 or 20 to make the process easier.
- Double-check your count to ensure accuracy.
Step 6: Cross-Reference with Online Chain Selector Tools
Many chainsaw chain manufacturers offer online chain selector tools that allow you to find the correct chain for your chainsaw model. These tools typically require you to enter your chainsaw’s make and model number.
Popular Chain Selector Tools:
- Oregon Chain Selector: https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/chain-selector-en
- Stihl Chain Selector: https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Chain-Identification-Guide.pdf (This is a PDF guide, not an interactive tool)
Important Note: While these tools are helpful, it’s always a good idea to double-check the results with your owner’s manual or by counting the drive links on your old chain.
Step 7: Consult with a Chainsaw Specialist
If you’re still unsure about which chain to choose, consult with a chainsaw specialist at a local hardware store or chainsaw repair shop. They can help you identify the correct chain based on your chainsaw model and your cutting needs.
I’ve learned to value the expertise of my local chainsaw shop. They’ve steered me right on several occasions, recommending chains and sharpening techniques that have significantly improved my cutting performance.
Understanding Pitch, Gauge, and Drive Link Count in Detail
Let’s delve deeper into the significance of each of these specifications and how they impact your chainsaw’s performance.
Pitch: The Bite of the Chain
The pitch of the chain determines the size and aggressiveness of the cut. A larger pitch generally means a more aggressive cut, suitable for larger saws and harder wood.
- .325″ Pitch: This is a common pitch for smaller to medium-sized chainsaws used for general-purpose cutting and firewood preparation. It offers a good balance of cutting speed and control.
- 3/8″ Pitch: This is a popular pitch for medium to large-sized chainsaws used for felling trees, bucking logs, and other heavy-duty cutting tasks. It provides a more aggressive cut than .325″ pitch.
- .404″ Pitch: This is the largest common pitch and is typically found on professional-grade chainsaws used for logging and timber harvesting. It offers the most aggressive cut but requires a powerful saw to operate effectively.
Choosing the Right Pitch:
- Consider your chainsaw’s engine size: A smaller chainsaw might not have enough power to effectively drive a chain with a larger pitch.
- Consider the type of wood you’ll be cutting: Harder woods require a more aggressive pitch.
- Consider your cutting experience: A larger pitch can be more challenging to control, especially for beginners.
Gauge: The Fit of the Chain
The gauge of the chain determines how well it fits into the guide bar groove. Using the correct gauge is essential for proper chain function and to prevent damage to the chain, guide bar, and chainsaw.
- .043″ Gauge: This is a relatively thin gauge commonly found on smaller chainsaws.
- .050″ Gauge: This is the most common gauge and is used on a wide range of chainsaws.
- .058″ Gauge: This is a thicker gauge often used on larger, more powerful chainsaws.
- .063″ Gauge: This is the thickest common gauge and is typically found on professional-grade chainsaws.
Choosing the Right Gauge:
- Consult your owner’s manual: The owner’s manual will specify the correct gauge for your chainsaw.
- Check the guide bar: The guide bar may also have the gauge specification stamped on it.
- Use a gauge measuring tool: If you’re unsure, use a gauge measuring tool to measure the gauge of your old chain or guide bar.
Important Note: Using a chain with the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind in the guide bar groove, leading to poor cutting performance, chain damage, and potential safety hazards.
Drive Link Count: The Length of the Chain
As mentioned earlier, the drive link count is the most crucial factor in ensuring the chain fits your specific chainsaw and guide bar combination.
Determining the Correct Drive Link Count:
- Consult your owner’s manual: The owner’s manual will specify the correct drive link count for your chainsaw model and bar length.
- Count the drive links on your old chain: This is the most reliable way to determine the correct drive link count.
- Use an online chain selector tool: Many chainsaw chain manufacturers offer online tools that can help you find the correct chain for your chainsaw.
Important Note: Always double-check the drive link count before installing a new chain. Using a chain with the wrong number of drive links can cause the chain to be too loose or too tight, leading to poor cutting performance, chain damage, and potential safety hazards.
Beyond the Basics: Chain Types and Maintenance
Now that you understand the fundamental specifications of chainsaw chains, let’s explore some additional factors that can impact your cutting performance and chain longevity.
Cutter Types
The type of cutter on your chainsaw chain significantly affects its cutting performance and suitability for different tasks. Common cutter types include:
- Chisel Cutters: These cutters have a square corner and are known for their aggressive cutting action. They are best suited for clean wood and require frequent sharpening.
- Semi-Chisel Cutters: These cutters have a rounded corner, making them more durable and forgiving than chisel cutters. They are a good all-around choice for general-purpose cutting and firewood preparation.
- Chipper Cutters: These cutters have a rounded shape and are the most durable type of cutter. They are well-suited for cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
Choosing the Right Cutter Type:
- Consider the type of wood you’ll be cutting: Chisel cutters are best for clean wood, while semi-chisel or chipper cutters are better for dirty or abrasive wood.
- Consider your sharpening skills: Chisel cutters require more frequent and precise sharpening.
- Consider your cutting needs: For general-purpose cutting, semi-chisel cutters are a good choice.
Chain Maintenance
Proper chain maintenance is essential for maximizing its lifespan and ensuring safe and efficient cutting. Key maintenance tasks include:
- Sharpening: Regular sharpening is crucial for maintaining the chain’s cutting performance. A dull chain will cut slowly, require more effort, and increase the risk of kickback.
- Cleaning: Keep the chain clean by removing sawdust and debris after each use.
- Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and guide bar. Proper lubrication reduces friction, extends the life of the chain and guide bar, and prevents overheating.
- Tensioning: Regularly check the chain tension and adjust it as needed. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can bind and overheat.
- Inspection: Regularly inspect the chain for damage, such as broken cutters, cracked tie straps, or worn drive links. Replace the chain if you find any significant damage.
Sharpening Techniques:
- Hand Sharpening: This involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutter individually. It requires practice and skill but allows for precise sharpening.
- Electric Sharpening: This involves using an electric chain sharpener to sharpen all the cutters at once. It’s faster and easier than hand sharpening but can be less precise.
I personally prefer hand sharpening my chains. It allows me to fine-tune the cutting edges and ensure that each cutter is perfectly sharpened. While it takes more time and effort, I find that it results in a sharper, longer-lasting chain.
Safety First: Chainsaw Safety Practices
Operating a chainsaw can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not followed. Here are some essential safety practices:
- Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and steel-toed boots.
- Read and understand the owner’s manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety features.
- Inspect the chainsaw before each use: Check for loose parts, damaged components, and proper chain tension.
- Start the chainsaw on a firm, level surface: Ensure that the chain is not touching anything when starting the saw.
- Use a firm grip with both hands: Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
- Maintain a stable stance: Keep your feet firmly planted and avoid overreaching.
- Be aware of kickback: Kickback is a sudden, forceful backward movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury. Learn how to prevent kickback and what to do if it occurs.
- Never cut above shoulder height: This increases the risk of losing control of the chainsaw.
- Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for obstacles, power lines, and other hazards.
- Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
Kickback Prevention:
- Use a chainsaw with a low-kickback chain: These chains have features that reduce the risk of kickback.
- Maintain a sharp chain: A dull chain is more likely to kick back.
- Avoid cutting with the tip of the guide bar: This is the most common cause of kickback.
- Use proper cutting techniques: Learn how to make safe and efficient cuts.
I’ve had a few close calls with kickback over the years. One time, I was cutting a small branch and wasn’t paying close enough attention. The tip of the bar caught on something, and the saw kicked back violently. Luckily, I was wearing proper safety gear and was able to maintain control of the saw. That experience taught me the importance of always being aware of the risk of kickback and taking steps to prevent it.
Case Study: Choosing the Right Chain for a Firewood Project
Let’s consider a practical case study to illustrate the process of choosing the right chainsaw chain.
Scenario:
You need to cut several cords of firewood from a fallen oak tree. You have a Stihl MS 271 chainsaw with a 20-inch guide bar. You’re unsure which chain to buy.
Solution:
- Identify the chainsaw model: The chainsaw is a Stihl MS 271.
- Consult the owner’s manual: The owner’s manual specifies the following for a 20-inch bar:
- Pitch: .325″
- Gauge: .063″
- Drive Link Count: 76
- Verify with an online chain selector tool: Using the Stihl chain selector tool (or a similar tool from Oregon), you confirm that the correct chain for a Stihl MS 271 with a 20-inch bar is .325″ pitch, .063″ gauge, and 76 drive links.
- Choose the cutter type: Since you’re cutting oak, which can be hard and abrasive, you opt for a semi-chisel chain for its durability.
- Purchase the chain: You purchase a Stihl or Oregon chain with the following specifications: .325″ pitch, .063″ gauge, 76 drive links, and semi-chisel cutters.
By following these steps, you can confidently choose the right chainsaw chain for your firewood project, ensuring safe and efficient cutting.
Conclusion: Mastering Chainsaw Chain Selection
Understanding chainsaw chain specifications, especially the number of drive links, pitch, and gauge, is crucial for anyone who uses a chainsaw. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can confidently choose the right chain for your saw and your cutting needs. Remember to always consult your owner’s manual, double-check your measurements, and prioritize safety.
Choosing the right chain and maintaining it properly will not only improve your cutting performance but also extend the life of your chainsaw and, most importantly, keep you safe. So, the next time you need to replace your chainsaw chain, remember the lessons learned here, and you’ll be well-equipped to make the right choice. Now, get out there and cut some wood!
