20" Chainsaw Chain Husqvarna: Rancher 450 Bar Size Guide (Pro Tips)

Ever found yourself staring at your Husqvarna Rancher 450, wondering which chainsaw chain and bar size is the perfect match? You’re not alone. I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, wrestling with mismatched chains and bars, learning the hard way what works and what doesn’t. Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of selecting the right 20-inch chainsaw chain for your Husqvarna Rancher 450, turning you from a weekend warrior into a wood-cutting pro.

Understanding Your Husqvarna Rancher 450

Before we even think about chains and bars, let’s quickly recap what makes the Rancher 450 a popular choice. This saw is known for its reliability, power, and ease of use – a sweet spot for both homeowners and seasoned pros tackling medium-duty tasks.

Key Specs of the Rancher 450

Engine Displacement: Around 45cc
Recommended Bar Lengths: Typically 13-20 inches
Weight (Powerhead Only): Roughly 11 pounds

These specs are crucial because they dictate the type of cutting you can comfortably handle. A 45cc engine is powerful, but pushing it with an excessively long bar will bog it down and reduce its lifespan.

Why 20 Inches? The Case for a Longer Bar

Why even consider a 20-inch bar on a Rancher 450? Here’s my take:

Increased Reach: For felling medium-sized trees, the extra reach is a game-changer. You can often make a single cut instead of multiple, saving time and effort.
Versatility: A 20-inch bar lets you tackle a wider range of wood diameters. From limbing branches to bucking firewood, it’s a versatile length.

However, there are trade-offs. A longer bar increases the saw’s weight and requires more power to pull the chain through the wood. This means:

More Fatigue: Longer cutting sessions can be more tiring.
Potential for Kickback: A longer bar increases the risk of kickback, especially for inexperienced users.
Reduced Cutting Speed: In very dense wood, you might notice a slight decrease in cutting speed compared to a shorter bar.

My Experience: I remember one time, trying to fell a large oak with an 18-inch bar. I had to cut from both sides, which was awkward and time-consuming. Switching to a 20-inch bar made the job much cleaner and faster.

Choosing the Right Chainsaw Chain: Key Considerations

The chain is where the rubber meets the wood. Selecting the right one is critical for performance, safety, and the longevity of your saw.

Chain Pitch

Pitch refers to the size of the chain, specifically the distance between three rivets divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″ and .404″. The Rancher 450 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.

.325″ Pitch: This is a popular choice for mid-sized saws like the Rancher 450. It offers a good balance of cutting speed and durability.

Using the wrong pitch can damage your sprocket and bar, rendering your saw useless. Always check your saw’s manual or the bar itself to confirm the correct pitch.

Chain Gauge

Gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links – the part of the chain that sits in the bar’s groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″ and .063″. The Rancher 450 typically uses a .050″ gauge chain.

.050″ Gauge: This is a common gauge for many chainsaws, including the Rancher 450. It provides a good balance of durability and cutting efficiency.

Using the wrong gauge will prevent the chain from properly fitting in the bar’s groove. If the gauge is too small, the chain will wobble. If it’s too large, it won’t fit at all.

Drive Link Count

Drive link count is the number of drive links in the chain. This is crucial for ensuring the chain fits your specific bar length. A 20-inch bar on a Rancher 450 typically requires a chain with 78 drive links, but this can vary slightly depending on the bar manufacturer.

Pro Tip: Always double-check the drive link count before purchasing a chain. You can usually find this information on the bar itself or in the saw’s manual.

Chain Type: Full Chisel, Semi-Chisel, and Low-Kickback

The shape of the cutting teeth determines the chain’s aggressiveness and its resistance to kickback.

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered teeth that cut aggressively and quickly. They are ideal for clean wood and experienced users. However, they are more prone to kickback and dull quickly if they hit dirt or debris.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner teeth that are more forgiving and durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and are less prone to kickback.
Low-Kickback: These chains have features like bumper links or guard links that reduce the risk of kickback. They are ideal for beginners or anyone who prioritizes safety.

My Recommendation: For most Rancher 450 users with a 20-inch bar, a semi-chisel chain offers the best balance of performance, durability, and safety. If you’re experienced and cutting clean wood, a full chisel chain can boost your cutting speed. But if you’re new to chainsaws, stick with a low-kickback chain.

Chain Brands: Oregon, Stihl, Husqvarna

Several reputable brands offer high-quality chainsaw chains. Here are my top picks:

Oregon: Oregon is a leading manufacturer of chainsaw chains and bars. They offer a wide range of chains to suit different needs and budgets. Their chains are known for their durability and performance.
Stihl: Stihl is another well-known brand that produces excellent chainsaw chains. Stihl chains are often considered to be among the sharpest and most durable on the market.
Husqvarna: Husqvarna, the manufacturer of the Rancher 450, also makes its own chains. Husqvarna chains are designed to work optimally with Husqvarna saws.

My Experience: I’ve used chains from all three brands and have had good results with each. Oregon chains are a good value for the money, Stihl chains are incredibly sharp, and Husqvarna chains are a reliable choice for Husqvarna saws.

Selecting the Right Bar for Your 20-Inch Chain

The bar is the backbone of your cutting system. It guides the chain and supports it as it cuts through the wood.

Bar Type: Solid vs. Laminated

Solid Bars: These bars are made from a single piece of steel. They are extremely durable and are often used by professional loggers. However, they are heavier and more expensive than laminated bars.
Laminated Bars: These bars are made from multiple layers of steel that are bonded together. They are lighter and less expensive than solid bars, making them a popular choice for homeowners and occasional users.

My Recommendation: For the Rancher 450, a laminated bar is usually sufficient. It provides a good balance of durability and weight.

Bar Nose Type: Sprocket Tip vs. Hard Nose

Sprocket Tip Bars: These bars have a sprocket at the tip that helps to reduce friction and wear on the chain. They are ideal for felling trees and cutting large logs.
Hard Nose Bars: These bars have a solid tip with no sprocket. They are more durable than sprocket tip bars and are often used for cutting dirty or abrasive wood.

My Recommendation: For most users, a sprocket tip bar is the better choice. It reduces friction and makes cutting easier.

Bar Mount

The bar mount is the part of the bar that attaches to the chainsaw. It’s essential to choose a bar with the correct mount for your Rancher 450.

Pro Tip: Check your saw’s manual or the existing bar to determine the correct bar mount.

Step-by-Step Guide: Installing Your New Chain and Bar

Okay, you’ve got your new 20-inch chain and bar. Let’s get them installed.

Safety First: Always wear gloves and eye protection when handling chainsaw chains and bars.
Remove the Old Bar and Chain: Loosen the bar nuts (usually located on the side of the saw body) and remove the side cover. Carefully remove the old bar and chain.
Inspect the Sprocket: Check the sprocket for wear or damage. If it’s worn, replace it.
Install the New Bar: Slide the new bar onto the mounting studs, ensuring that the adjuster pin aligns with the hole in the bar.
Install the New Chain: Place the chain around the bar, making sure that the cutting teeth are facing in the correct direction (they should point forward on the top of the bar). Engage the drive links with the sprocket.
Adjust the Chain Tension: Replace the side cover and tighten the bar nuts finger-tight. Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain tension is correct, tighten the bar nuts securely.
Check the Chain Tension Again: After tightening the bar nuts, double-check the chain tension. It may need to be adjusted slightly.

My Experience: I’ve seen people install chains backward more times than I can count. Always double-check the direction of the cutting teeth!

Maintaining Your Chain and Bar for Peak Performance

A well-maintained chain and bar will last longer and perform better.

Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting and safety. Dull chains require more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback.

When to Sharpen: Sharpen your chain whenever it starts to cut slowly or produces fine sawdust instead of chips.
How to Sharpen: You can sharpen your chain using a file and a guide or with a chainsaw sharpener. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Pro Tip: Learn to sharpen your chain properly. It’s a skill that will save you time and money.

Bar Maintenance

Clean the Bar Groove: Keep the bar groove clean of sawdust and debris. This ensures that the chain can move freely.
Check the Bar Rails: Inspect the bar rails for wear or damage. If they are worn, file them down to restore their shape.
Lubricate the Bar: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the bar and chain. This reduces friction and wear.

My Experience: I once neglected to clean the bar groove on my saw. The chain started to bind, and the bar overheated. I learned my lesson the hard way.

Chain Tensioning: The Goldilocks Zone

Maintaining proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance.

Too Loose: A loose chain can derail from the bar, causing damage to the saw and potentially injuring the operator.
Too Tight: A tight chain can overheat and break. It can also put excessive wear on the bar and sprocket.
Just Right: The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.

Pro Tip: Check the chain tension frequently, especially when the chain is new. New chains tend to stretch during the first few uses.

Safety First: Essential Precautions When Using a Chainsaw

Chainsaws are powerful tools that can be dangerous if used improperly. Always follow these safety precautions:

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the saw’s operating instructions and safety features.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders and pets at least 50 feet away from the cutting area.
Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the saw that can cause serious injury. Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
Don’t Cut in Unsafe Conditions: Avoid cutting in wet, windy, or icy conditions.
Inspect the Work Area: Before cutting, inspect the work area for hazards such as power lines, rocks, and hidden objects.
Use a Proper Grip: Always use a firm, two-handed grip on the saw.
Start the Saw on the Ground: Never drop-start a chainsaw. Always start it on the ground with the chain brake engaged.
Keep the Chain Sharp: A sharp chain is safer and more efficient than a dull chain.

My Experience: I once saw a logger who wasn’t wearing chaps suffer a serious leg injury when his chainsaw kicked back. It was a stark reminder of the importance of safety gear.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best equipment and maintenance, you may encounter problems with your chainsaw. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them:

Chain Won’t Cut: This could be due to a dull chain, incorrect chain tension, or a clogged bar groove.
Chain Keeps Derailing: This could be due to a loose chain, a worn sprocket, or a damaged bar.
Saw is Hard to Start: This could be due to a dirty air filter, a fouled spark plug, or stale fuel.
Saw is Smoking Excessively: This could be due to an incorrect fuel mixture or a clogged air filter.
Saw is Overheating: This could be due to a dull chain, a tight chain, or a clogged cooling system.

Pro Tip: Consult your saw’s manual for specific troubleshooting instructions.

The Economics of Chainsaw Use: Making it Pay Off

Beyond the technical aspects, let’s consider the financial side. Using a chainsaw, especially for firewood, can be a cost-effective way to heat your home.

Calculating Your Savings

Compare Firewood Costs: Research the price of buying firewood in your area.
Estimate Your Wood Consumption: Determine how much firewood you need to heat your home for a season.
Calculate Your Costs: Factor in the cost of the chainsaw, bar, chain, fuel, oil, and maintenance.
Compare the Two: Determine whether it’s cheaper to buy firewood or cut your own.

My Experience: I’ve calculated that cutting my own firewood saves me hundreds of dollars each year. Plus, it’s a great workout!

Maximizing Efficiency

Choose the Right Wood: Some types of wood burn hotter and longer than others.
Dry the Wood Properly: Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
Maintain Your Equipment: A well-maintained chainsaw will run more efficiently and last longer.

Advanced Techniques: Beyond the Basics

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can explore more advanced chainsaw techniques.

Felling Trees Safely

Felling trees is a dangerous task that should only be attempted by experienced users.

Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards.
Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route in case the tree falls in an unexpected direction.
Use Proper Felling Techniques: Use a combination of notches and back cuts to control the direction of the fall.

Milling Lumber

With the right equipment, you can use your chainsaw to mill lumber from logs.

Chainsaw Mill: A chainsaw mill is a frame that attaches to your chainsaw and guides it as you cut lumber.
Lumber Grading: Learn how to grade lumber to determine its quality and value.

Wood Splitting Techniques

Splitting wood efficiently is key to preparing firewood.

Manual Splitting: Using a maul and wedge to split wood by hand.
Log Splitters: Using a hydraulic log splitter to split wood quickly and easily.

The Future of Chainsaws: Technology and Innovation

The world of chainsaws is constantly evolving. New technologies are making saws more powerful, efficient, and safe.

Battery-Powered Chainsaws

Battery-powered chainsaws are becoming increasingly popular. They are quieter, lighter, and easier to maintain than gas-powered saws.

Electronic Fuel Injection

Electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems improve fuel efficiency and reduce emissions.

Sensor Technology

Sensors can monitor the saw’s performance and provide alerts when maintenance is needed.

Final Thoughts: Mastering the 20-Inch Bar on Your Rancher 450

Choosing the right 20-inch chainsaw chain for your Husqvarna Rancher 450 is a journey that combines technical knowledge with practical experience. By understanding the key considerations – pitch, gauge, drive link count, and chain type – you can select a chain that optimizes your saw’s performance and ensures your safety. Remember, a well-maintained chain and bar, coupled with safe operating practices, will not only extend the life of your equipment but also make your wood-cutting tasks more enjoyable and efficient. So, gear up, stay sharp, and get cutting!